Palermo: Travels in the City of Happiness: Art, Architecture and History in Sicily's Ancient Capital

by Allan Langdale

Travels in the City of Happiness is an entertaining and captivatingly personal account of a week of urban adventures in Palermo, Sicily. Written with a profound love for the history of the ancient Sicilian capital, Allan Langdale takes us on a succession of journeys through the city’s physical fabric and varied historical periods. In these pages Palermo’s streets, piazzas and architecture become eloquent witnesses to eras past; ages that live vibrantly on in Landale’s riveting accounts of everything from the palaces of the medieval Norman kings to the modern apartments built during the mafia’s ‘Sack of Palermo’ in the late twentieth century. No stone goes unturned in Langdale’s explorations making it both an incomparable preparatory guide to the city or a wonderful book to curl up with for armchair travel. At times reminiscent of Bill Bryson, Langdale’s sense of humor is always in evidence, as when a shortfall in finances necessitates a dramatic downgrade in accommodations, or when he unsuccessfully tries to impress a state policeman with his less-than-perfect Italian. Langdale’s voice is fresh and inspiring, but he generously shares the stage with many travelers from Palermo’s past, such as the German philosopher Goethe, who visited the city in the late eighteenth-century and the French writer Guy de Maupassant, who arrived in the late nineteenth. Even the famous painter Van Dyck spent time in the city in the early 1600s. We see the city through their eyes too, and find ourselves in a terrific company of numerous historical travelers going back a thousand years. Hovering like a benevolent ghost through the book is Giuseppe de Lampedusa’s famous novel, The Leopard, through which Langdale finds a profound spiritual key to Palermo’s fascinating past as tries to reorient Palermo’s historical reputation from a ‘City of Tragedy’ to ‘City of Happiness’, a sobriquet it once enjoyed centuries ago. This little book, so breezily written and casual, is thoroughly researched and offers glimpses into rarified worlds of Palermo’s past, including topics as diverse as the tuna fishing industry and the role played by the citrus orchards of the Concha d’Oro in the formation of the mafia. Of the many tantalizing secrets of Palermo that are revealed by Langdale’s book, not the least is the elegant work of Palermo’s great Art Nouveau architect Ernesto Basile, whose buildings the author carefully seeks out, sometimes cheating his way into edifices he has no business being in. Pushing political correctness aside, Langdale also finds time to sort out the better works of Fascist architecture of Palermo, of which there are several examples. Langdale’s engagements with works of art are compelling, whether it’s Antonella da Messina’s captivating fifteenth-century painting of the Virgin Annunciate or the stunning early twentieth-century mosaic in the Panificio of Salvatore Morello. In these instances Langdale’s years of experience as an art historian serve him well, informing his sensitive portrayals of Palermo’s gems of visual art. The centerpieces of the book are the glorious remains of the medieval Norman kings, such as the Palermo cathedral, the Palatine chapel, the Church of the Martorana, and the cathedral and monastery of Monreale, on Palermo’s outskirts. Instead of attempting to deal with every work of art, the author selects key works to analyze, thus opening up a world of possibility for readers. Langdale tells the stories of these remarkable achievements—architectural and artistic—with compelling descriptions and attending to details only experts in the field are aware of, giving insights no cursory guidebook could ever attempt.

Genres: Travel, Italy, Architecture

246 pages, Kindle Edition

First published April 22, 2015

Reviews

[Kristina · Rating 5 out of 5]

4.5 stars, rounded up

I'm traveling to Sicily in a few weeks, so I'm checking out as many of the recommendations from the Smithsonian reading list for their special Journey trips (which I'm not taking). This was a fascinating account of the author’s time in Palermo. It is clear throughout that the art historian is passionate about this city and its history. I'm excited to see some of what he features and as a history buff, I was delighted by all of the knowledge I can take with me!

[Peter Corrigan · Rating 3 out of 5]

I write this on the train leaving Palermo after 5 days! 'Interesting' hardly covers Palermo in a word but it certainly is that. This short volume covers much of what I saw and some that I missed, sadly. Most notable of my misses was failure to ascend Mt. Pellegrino and visit the Santa Rosalia shrine but he does a nice job on that. Also would like to have walked by Ucciardone prison just because. Anyway, I'd recommend this for potential visitors among many other fine books dealing with this fascinating city.

[AmusedAngel · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is true to its title, a perfect synopsis and guide to the art, architecture and history of Sicily’s ancient capital that we know as Palermo. I read this book in anticipation for a future trip to the city of happiness. Loved the literature and historical references connected to significant city areas. Allan Langdale created a beautifully crafted guide which inspired me to venture to unknown areas of the city. This book has already taught me so much about the city but is also provides wonder supplementary reads of check out if one wishes to learn more. I could not have read a more perfect book in preparation for my trip. Having read five other books on Sicily, none can compare to the personal detail shared within this guide. I felt like I was walking along side Allan as he delved deep into the history and culture of the city with witty remarks to accompany captivating tales.

[Christine Schultheiss · Rating 2 out of 5]

I read this in preparation for a trip to Palermo. It’s possible someone more into history and art/architecture would enjoy this book more than I did. The kicker for me was the not infrequent creepy old man vives from the author (him going to the beach looking for women in bikinis, getting excited to take pictures when he sees a sign for a nude beach, and, most charmingly, his reference to a group of young female Japanese tourist as having a “Hello Kitty innocence.”)

[Janet Mumma · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ve read this twice. First time to get a general feel for the author’s voice and purpose; second time to better identify historical events and their players and to name the places I’d like to visit when I travel to Palermo.

[Gregory Gunter · Rating 3 out of 5]

Lack of detailed addresses

This book is enjoyable but is missing addresses and or maps. Author describes many location but not how to get there or adetailed addresses