黑麥王國：從艱苦和飢餓中誕生的俄羅斯滋味

by Darra Goldstein, 達拉．戈德斯坦, 梁永安 (Translator)

「大地是我們的母親，麵包是我們的父親。」
俄羅斯人最深刻的民族性與文化本源，就藏在跨越千年的飲食生活與傳統味道中。

俄羅斯古老的飲食方式，是在艱苦和飢餓中誕生的，
想真正認識俄羅斯，先知道俄羅斯人吃些什麼！


「俄羅斯，或許危險，但從不無聊！」
◆一本以糧食與飲食為經緯，鋪展俄羅斯與蘇聯數百年興亡的文化史◆
◆「國際專業烹飪協會（IACP）終身成就獎」獲獎作者◆
◆深耕俄羅斯文化與飲食歷史的精采佳作◆
◆十數幀珍貴歷史圖片，透過時間序展現俄羅斯的迷人畫卷◆

「黑麥在俄羅斯飲食中根深柢固，以至於到了十九世紀後期，該國每年三成到六成的耕地都用來種植這種作物，讓俄羅斯成了名副其實的『黑麥王國』。農民將黑麥麵包貼緊胸口，用刀朝自己心臟方向水平切開，以表達對黑麥麵包的由衷敬意……」
獲獎知名飲食文化學者達拉‧戈德斯坦（Darra Goldstein），帶領讀者透過俄羅斯料理，展開一場生動的歷史與文化巡禮。

《黑麥王國》深入挖掘了俄羅斯大地的食物與風味，為讀者呈現了一個簡潔精練、引人入勝且文筆絕美的俄羅斯文化本源的故事。本書闡述了國家認同如何透過飲食展現，以及人們如何透過共同進食的內容來定義自我。
從黑麥與發酵的滋味中，我們得以走進俄羅斯廣袤的國土與千年的歷史；讓我們摘掉有色的政治眼鏡，身歷其境體驗俄羅斯人的生活，深入解讀俄羅斯的社會結構。我們看到，俄羅斯千年來如何在嚴酷環境的淬鍊下，在簡樸中綻放絢麗，在匱乏下激發創造力，以獨有的機智與韌性對抗極寒氣候、民族外侮與苦難動盪，展現出無比的生活智慧，積累出熾熱的民族驕傲！
本書聚焦日常的俄羅斯飲食史，卻蘊含了更深邃的時代底蘊，證明了「木勺的力量更甚於權杖」。

▍全書精彩內容

專文導讀／陳相因（中央研究院中國文哲研究所研究員）
「俄羅斯，或許危險，但從不無聊！」……本書所呈現的，正是這兩者交錯而成的黑麥王國：不論是貧窮中畫餅充飢的幻覺，抑或富貴裡海市蜃樓般的錯覺，其間蘊藏著由歷史變遷與文化密碼交織而成的迷人風味，值得讀者探索玩味，仔細品嘗。

前言
《黑麥王國》追溯了俄羅斯烹飪文化從「前基督教時代」的源頭一直到現在的發展歷程，代表了我畢生對俄羅斯及其美食奇蹟的思考精髓。在俄羅斯和西方再次陷入緊張對立局勢的此刻，文化理解變得更至關重要。

緒論
食物的味道與質地、料理的工藝、餐桌的美學，或許最重要的是，它的文化共鳴與傳統風味的情感價值，亦即人們如何透過共同享用的食物來認識自己。……這本俄羅斯飲食史，提供了一個窺探俄羅斯人日常生活的窗口，呈現了一部源於木勺而非權杖的歷史。

第一章 土地與風味
俄羅斯農民主要靠黑麥製品維持生計。他們把整粒全麥煮成粥吃，又把它們磨成麵粉做麵包。不新鮮的黑麥麵包被製成「克瓦斯」，一種既營養又清爽的飲料。製作克瓦斯剩下的麥芽漿則被拿來當作黑麵包的酸種，形成一個完整的循環。也難怪俄羅斯人對黑麥麵包如此崇敬。他們相信黑麥麵包不僅關係到他們的健康，還關係到他們的命運。

第二章 苦難與飢餓
飢餓，以及頻頻發生的饑荒，從一開始就定義了俄羅斯的歷史。……在俄羅斯鄉間，分享麵包的慈善行為已形成一種儀式，稱為「乞討麵包皮」。通常發生在冬季或早春，也就是糧食儲備用盡的時候，這種做法形成了一種微妙的禮儀……俄羅斯農民知道，最好替飢餓的人保有一點尊嚴，不必令其苦苦哀求，因為很可能來年角色就會互換。

第三章 好客與浮誇
儘管戰爭和政治動盪導致物資嚴重短缺，但與人分享食物的渴望，依舊是俄羅斯亙古不變的民族特性。即使在蘇聯物資最匱乏的年代，人們也會想盡辦法聚在一起慶祝重要的日子。這就是為什麼在蘇聯解體後，一九九八年俄羅斯經濟崩潰且通貨膨脹飆升時，俄羅斯人的身分認同受到了動搖：當時一般平民百姓甚至無法為客人提供一頓像樣的飯菜。

尾聲 蘇聯解體後的俄羅斯
國際制裁促使社會推崇本土農產品取代進口食材，也翻轉了民眾的飲食觀念。過去斷絕傳統技藝的年輕世代，開始積極發掘並復興古老的飲食方式。……俄羅斯古老的飲食方式，是從古早時代艱苦和飢餓的環境中誕生的。今天，人們以創意和活力重新詮釋這些傳統，不再只是望向西方，而是開啟全新視角，回望自身的飲食與文化根源，並以此銜接未來。

▍歷史變遷與文化密碼交織而成的俄羅斯迷人風味
◆俄羅斯人認為，麵包是上帝與人之間的媒介。如果有人掉了一塊麵包，撿起後必須親吻它，然後立刻吃掉或扔進火裡。
◆魔鬼會收集一個人一生中丟棄的所有麵包屑，人死後，如果這些麵包屑加起來比他本人還重，魔鬼就會奪走他的靈魂。
◆母親有時會將生病的嬰兒放在烤麵包鏟上，儀式性地把嬰兒送進爐子裡三次，祈求能治癒他們。
◆俄羅斯東正教會精明地將匱乏轉化為一種美德，將一年中近兩百天定為齋戒日，長時間的齋戒剛好與農業最匱乏的季節重疊。
◆俄羅斯鄉間，分享麵包的慈善行為已形成一種儀式，稱為「乞討麵包皮」。通常發生在冬季或早春，兒童和老年人會把一個麻袋背在肩上，步行或乘坐馬車前往糧食較充足的鄰近村莊，向有餘裕的家庭乞討小塊麵包。
◆儘管戰爭和政治動盪造成了嚴重的短缺，但與人分享食物是一種民族特性。即使在蘇聯最物資匱乏的時期，人們也會想盡辦法聚集在一起慶祝特殊的日子。

Genres: History, Food, Nonfiction, Russia, Food History, Food Writing, Culinary

71 pages, Kindle Edition

Published June 27, 2026

Reviews

[Lina · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have, in the past, read one of Darra Goldstein's Russian cookbooks in bed, like it was a novel. The introductions to her recipes, where she writes about the history of the dish or technique, or a mention of it in Russian literature, were always the high points. The Kingdom of Rye is an entire book of that, and it was a pleasure to read.

For those who may be worried about reading this in the current climate, know that Goldstein, an American Jew with Ukrainian roots, does not glorify the Russian state, and indeed is very clear in assigning it blame for the Holodomor.

[Marina Furmanov · Rating 5 out of 5]

A dense book evaluating the ebbs and flows Russian cuisine took to get to today. Through the theatrical aspect of the multiple courses to Wheat to McDonald’s, the detail made me miss my moms Russian home cooking. Really great book about Russian culture through the lens of hundreds of years of food.

[alexandraly · Rating 5 out of 5]

I actually really enjoyed this, despite expecting its claims to be farfetched and hard to relate to. However, I found it a lovely and thoughtful etymological history of food and class relations. I did not really understand how the book was laid out, as there were several sections that were very reiterative and I found the timelines sometimes difficult to follow. Therefore, this is not as much a "history" but an argument.

I learned a lot from reading this book. Goldstein does a great job of explaining how historical patterns of foreign envy and nationalist sentiment repeat and recur in confluence with economic stability; how food IS economics. I found her Soviet era coverage especially compelling, and how the introduction of fast food gave Russia a renewed opportunity to experiment with what is "Russian". Given that this book covers up until COVID, I hope that there will be a second edition covering the most recent set of sanctions and McDonald's leaving.

I will definitely read her other novel, which is more of a recipe book. She also mentioned recipe books published by the USSR which I will look into.

[Kathy Piselli · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fascinating book of food mores in a harsh climate with a short growing season, a place to escape from, a place accustomed to privation. I liked the giant masonry stove of many uses, "chiming the storm" to help travelers overland, and the "normal hard times", including the Soviet food shortages both natural and manmade. I won't soon forget people milling about a place where "sausage was about to appear", having sussed this information out somehow. The word derivations throughout were very helpful to me, and the literary references were great. The author doesn't leave politics out, but it does not overwhelm her narrative except possibly in her Preface where in a discussion of the many problems she encountered, she explains how her "pursuit" was saved by Russian hospitality. "Ordinary people asked me to dinner. We crowded around tiny tables, eating with mismatched plates and forks in tiny, rudimentary kitchens, and the food was delicious." I was only sorry she didn't go on to mention what her grandmother had to say about that.

[Yaakov Bressler · Rating 4 out of 5]

A delightful overview of the history, depth, and significance of Russian food. First part of the book heavily emphasizes rye, which I was eager to read about. 2nd half of the book focuses on food tradition.

Is less anthropological than what I was hoping for. But the book did give me a deeper appreciation for the uniqueness of Russian cuisine.

After reading this book, I want to read more about Russia's famines and how people survived.

[Benjamin Swinchoski · Rating 4 out of 5]

A comprehensive humanization of the "common" Russian people through a detailed discussion of Russian food culture throughout the years and its connection to the Russian values of resilience and inventiveness. I read this for WGSS S263 class at Yale.

[Brittney]

Great book.