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One Man's Everest: The Autobiography of Kenton Cool
Kenton Cool has summited Everest 11 times; is the first person in history to climb the three Everest peaks, the so-called Triple Crown, in one climb, a feat previously thought impossible; and was nominated for the prestigious piolet d'Or in 2004 for climbing a previously unclimbed route on Annapurna III. In 2012 he fulfilled the Olympic Games pledge of placing a 1924 gold medal on the Everest summit. His accomplishments are all the more extraordinary considering a 1996 incident when, while climbing in Wales, he broke a handhold and fell to the ground, shattering his heel bones. Initially told he would never walk unaided again, Kenton spent four weeks in hospital, had three operations, three and a half months in a wheelchair, and months of rehab. Today he is still in pain, and after a long day in the mountains it's not uncommon to see him struggling to walk or moving around on his hands and knees. Yet he still climbs. This book tells why.
272 pages, Kindle Edition
First published August 27, 2015
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Displaying 1 - 27 of 27 reviews
November 4, 2023
In brief - If climbing books are your thing this is a solid 3.5/5 for me though it doesn't have a great deal of detail about the climbing maybe.
In full - This book starts with an excellent prologue giving a vivid view of just what it is like to stand on the summit of Everest. From the book looks at various parts of Kenton Cool's life. The youthful exploits are endearing mostly though might well have been seen as irritating by others - young climbers really can be a breed apart! His early injury to his heels made for a powerful read and can only leave with considerable respect for the man. I found it entertaining but it is not a real climbing book more an autobiographical maybe; it lacks some detail of the actual climbs compared to many similar books I've read. However what is there is frequently very interesting. As an example there is an up to date view of Everest base camp & life there. I did like his explanation and discussion of the "bloody rat" that gnaws at climbers driving them on.
For fans of climbing literature this is probably one to read. It is not a blow by blow account of Kenton's climbs although it gives an overview and maybe a little more of a number of them. It is not really a biography as it only covers limited periods of his life. It does look carefully, and to me sensibly, at the philosophy of making a living at climbing. Equally the issues involved in guiding clients who can pay to be taken up Everest and the like. It's written well enough and I certainly enjoyed reading it. It has a sensible glossary of climbing terms.
Note - I received an advance digital copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for a fair review
In full - This book starts with an excellent prologue giving a vivid view of just what it is like to stand on the summit of Everest. From the book looks at various parts of Kenton Cool's life. The youthful exploits are endearing mostly though might well have been seen as irritating by others - young climbers really can be a breed apart! His early injury to his heels made for a powerful read and can only leave with considerable respect for the man. I found it entertaining but it is not a real climbing book more an autobiographical maybe; it lacks some detail of the actual climbs compared to many similar books I've read. However what is there is frequently very interesting. As an example there is an up to date view of Everest base camp & life there. I did like his explanation and discussion of the "bloody rat" that gnaws at climbers driving them on.
For fans of climbing literature this is probably one to read. It is not a blow by blow account of Kenton's climbs although it gives an overview and maybe a little more of a number of them. It is not really a biography as it only covers limited periods of his life. It does look carefully, and to me sensibly, at the philosophy of making a living at climbing. Equally the issues involved in guiding clients who can pay to be taken up Everest and the like. It's written well enough and I certainly enjoyed reading it. It has a sensible glossary of climbing terms.
Note - I received an advance digital copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for a fair review
August 18, 2016
I have reviewed this book via NetGALLEY on behalf of publisher Random House UK, Cornerstone and author Kenton Cool. The ARC warrants one and here it is:
The name Kenton Cool attracted me to this autobiography; I had come across his name, either watching a programme about A&E in base camp or some other Everest account. What struck me was it was an unforgettable name and he'd climbed Everest more than once.
The opportunity to read about the man from his own lips was too good to miss. Like many people I have a number of autobiographies on my bookshelves unread; gifts or an interest lapsed and no longer my focus. If you receive this one or buy it yourself I urge you to read it regardless of your stance on mountaineering or climbing in general. Can I say I have always been interested in this pastime but never shared the passion to take to the hills? I do love walking in the Lakes and walking the Snowdon Horseshoe so I have the respect of all who venture to the mountains for fun or the need to challenge themselves. However, if you haven't previously been warm to such things I would suggest this maybe a biography to read regardless as it captures the human spirit.
His story is of a young man with an affinity for climbing and adventure, who has so far overcome adversity and enhanced the lives of others along the way. For the youth he may be an inspiration as a mature married man and Father he is more than a role-model.
I loved his honesty and integrity. The reason he climbed Everest so many times is part the modern process of roped routes and the fact that he is a paid guide to the adventurous and wealthy who want to bag the big one. Kenton Cool is more than the sum of his parts, he is a respected climber and leader who not only can be trusted with your life but who will enhance the whole experience. That said despite the many ascents of Everest he demonstrates a sense of awe and humility at the privilege to be at high altitude in the Himalayas. Success is down to planning, risk management and preparation but the last word is down to the mountain. Respect!
The name Kenton Cool attracted me to this autobiography; I had come across his name, either watching a programme about A&E in base camp or some other Everest account. What struck me was it was an unforgettable name and he'd climbed Everest more than once.
The opportunity to read about the man from his own lips was too good to miss. Like many people I have a number of autobiographies on my bookshelves unread; gifts or an interest lapsed and no longer my focus. If you receive this one or buy it yourself I urge you to read it regardless of your stance on mountaineering or climbing in general. Can I say I have always been interested in this pastime but never shared the passion to take to the hills? I do love walking in the Lakes and walking the Snowdon Horseshoe so I have the respect of all who venture to the mountains for fun or the need to challenge themselves. However, if you haven't previously been warm to such things I would suggest this maybe a biography to read regardless as it captures the human spirit.
His story is of a young man with an affinity for climbing and adventure, who has so far overcome adversity and enhanced the lives of others along the way. For the youth he may be an inspiration as a mature married man and Father he is more than a role-model.
I loved his honesty and integrity. The reason he climbed Everest so many times is part the modern process of roped routes and the fact that he is a paid guide to the adventurous and wealthy who want to bag the big one. Kenton Cool is more than the sum of his parts, he is a respected climber and leader who not only can be trusted with your life but who will enhance the whole experience. That said despite the many ascents of Everest he demonstrates a sense of awe and humility at the privilege to be at high altitude in the Himalayas. Success is down to planning, risk management and preparation but the last word is down to the mountain. Respect!
February 29, 2016
An absolute must read for anybody with a love for mountains and adventure!
This man achievements are immeasurable. He writes in detail about his time on Everest, and being in the 8000m death zone, along with an account of his experiences guiding Sir Ranulph Fiennes up the north face of the Eiger. Everest does not receive quite the coverage I imagined it would judging by the title of the book, as Kenton Cool himself suggests there are bigger challenges in mountaineering than Everest. The early chapters tell the story of how Cool began climbing, the potentially devastating injury he sustained, and how he defied the odds to continue living his dream. His style of writing is very matter of fact, he tends not to romanticise his experiences and I like this about him.
Be sure to read his epilogue!! It contains some thought provoking content about how the increasingly popular Everest climb is affecting the cleanliness of the mountain and poses the question as to how potentially damaging it can be to the environment surrounding the area.
This man achievements are immeasurable. He writes in detail about his time on Everest, and being in the 8000m death zone, along with an account of his experiences guiding Sir Ranulph Fiennes up the north face of the Eiger. Everest does not receive quite the coverage I imagined it would judging by the title of the book, as Kenton Cool himself suggests there are bigger challenges in mountaineering than Everest. The early chapters tell the story of how Cool began climbing, the potentially devastating injury he sustained, and how he defied the odds to continue living his dream. His style of writing is very matter of fact, he tends not to romanticise his experiences and I like this about him.
Be sure to read his epilogue!! It contains some thought provoking content about how the increasingly popular Everest climb is affecting the cleanliness of the mountain and poses the question as to how potentially damaging it can be to the environment surrounding the area.
June 15, 2016
I loved this book - it was rather like listening to a mate telling you things you half believe - understates the epic and overstates the norm.....Kenton is awesome and quietly understates his own achievements page after page, chapter after chapter. A human account of an extraordinary man - many have written more about much less, there are times you want to yell at him.......I want more.. Ran ascent story for example, but I ended trusting the edit was wise.....but hope he has another book in him.
February 6, 2022
Fantastic book by a fantastic guy. I had spoken with Kenton over email and he sent me a signed copy. This is one of my most cherished books on the shelf.
June 3, 2016
I found it hard to put this book down. I've been reading books by those who've climbed Everest for many decades since I was a teenager and this was one of the best.
Kenton Cool overcame a huge setback when a fall from a low rock face in his early twenties shattered his heel bones. He was told by a doctor that he would never walk again. With the help of a good surgeon and sheer grit and determination he has proved that doctor wrong and had summited Everest 11 times by the time he wrote this book, 12 by the time I write this review.
There were times when, as a mother of sons, I found it hard to read as he took unwise risks when younger and climbing with ‘the boys’ – his equally reckless climbing mates. But once I got past that and onto his more mature/responsible ventures in guiding others up Everest and other peaks I was a less anxious reader.
I really enjoyed the mix between reading about his climbing companions and clients as well as the more technical stuff about the climbs. Having trekked in the foothills of Everest, and read a lot about the area, I am familiar with the geography, location of the Everest camps and names of different locations on Everest. However, I did wonder if a map showing Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse and more details of Everest’s south face route might be useful to the more general reader? Maybe there is in the final book. I was fortunate to be reading a proof edition provided for free by Netgalley in return for an honest review.
I enjoyed the section on Kenton doing the Triple Crown (summiting Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse without returning to Base Camp) in 2013 after being let down by Kola, the Nigerian business-man who was supposed to be his client to summit Everest that season. Although I am left wondering if he ever was able to reclaim his significant expenses already outlaid for that trip from Kola?.
I was also very interested to hear more about the much publicised brawl in 2013 following a disagreement between 3 climbers and Sherpas putting up ropes. I had not realised the cause of the fracas and would like to know more - there is surely a whole book worth of material in that incident alone although Kenton Cool is not really in a position to write it as he was not there or involved.
Having met many Sherpas while trekking in the foothills of Everest I was heartened at Kenton's friendship and respect of them. All I met were the most gentle, kind hearted people with often very little in terms of possessions but very big hearts.
This is an outstanding book which keeps coming back to me in the days since I finished it and I look forward to following Kenton's career more closely now. I just hope he takes less risk for the sake of his wife and children!
Kenton Cool overcame a huge setback when a fall from a low rock face in his early twenties shattered his heel bones. He was told by a doctor that he would never walk again. With the help of a good surgeon and sheer grit and determination he has proved that doctor wrong and had summited Everest 11 times by the time he wrote this book, 12 by the time I write this review.
There were times when, as a mother of sons, I found it hard to read as he took unwise risks when younger and climbing with ‘the boys’ – his equally reckless climbing mates. But once I got past that and onto his more mature/responsible ventures in guiding others up Everest and other peaks I was a less anxious reader.
I really enjoyed the mix between reading about his climbing companions and clients as well as the more technical stuff about the climbs. Having trekked in the foothills of Everest, and read a lot about the area, I am familiar with the geography, location of the Everest camps and names of different locations on Everest. However, I did wonder if a map showing Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse and more details of Everest’s south face route might be useful to the more general reader? Maybe there is in the final book. I was fortunate to be reading a proof edition provided for free by Netgalley in return for an honest review.
I enjoyed the section on Kenton doing the Triple Crown (summiting Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse without returning to Base Camp) in 2013 after being let down by Kola, the Nigerian business-man who was supposed to be his client to summit Everest that season. Although I am left wondering if he ever was able to reclaim his significant expenses already outlaid for that trip from Kola?.
I was also very interested to hear more about the much publicised brawl in 2013 following a disagreement between 3 climbers and Sherpas putting up ropes. I had not realised the cause of the fracas and would like to know more - there is surely a whole book worth of material in that incident alone although Kenton Cool is not really in a position to write it as he was not there or involved.
Having met many Sherpas while trekking in the foothills of Everest I was heartened at Kenton's friendship and respect of them. All I met were the most gentle, kind hearted people with often very little in terms of possessions but very big hearts.
This is an outstanding book which keeps coming back to me in the days since I finished it and I look forward to following Kenton's career more closely now. I just hope he takes less risk for the sake of his wife and children!
August 18, 2020
I think I thought this book would be longer when I bought it, an in depth view of climbing Everest by someone who was told they'd never climb again...instead it feels a bit like an overview. Don't get me wrong, I found this to be a very interesting book, but it's also quite a quick read.
As I read more books about Everest the more they seem to reference each other. I'm pretty sure the last Everest book I read dealt with the death of David Sharp and the effort Russell Brice put in trying to identify him, and this tragedy (along with the 1995 tragedy) are mentioned multiple times. It makes sense, Cool is a 'modern' climber and interest in Everest increases year on year so a modern commentary on it makes sense.
I do wish though that Cool had talked a bit more about his injuries. I can't imagine climbing anything bigger than Ben Nevis, yet he's managed to climb new routes, guide people and survive the Death Zone multiple times all being rather hampered by his constant pain... it's very impressive yet rather downplayed.
As I read more books about Everest the more they seem to reference each other. I'm pretty sure the last Everest book I read dealt with the death of David Sharp and the effort Russell Brice put in trying to identify him, and this tragedy (along with the 1995 tragedy) are mentioned multiple times. It makes sense, Cool is a 'modern' climber and interest in Everest increases year on year so a modern commentary on it makes sense.
I do wish though that Cool had talked a bit more about his injuries. I can't imagine climbing anything bigger than Ben Nevis, yet he's managed to climb new routes, guide people and survive the Death Zone multiple times all being rather hampered by his constant pain... it's very impressive yet rather downplayed.
August 2, 2019
An interesting account of a modern mountaineer who balances climbing hard with a large amount of guide work. It is the latter that leads him to climb Everest >10 times and to climb with some celebrities of sorts such as Ranulph Fiennes, and more recently Ben Fogle and Victoria Pendleton. Kenton is unusual in this respect, as a serious climber who seems to genuinely enjoying leading teams of tourists. Kenton comes across as brave, perhaps even a little foolish, and also does not shy away from presenting unflattering stories, such as stealing from bars/restaurants, and I appreciate the honesty. This is a good read for those keen on mountaineering writing.
May 15, 2018
What an interesting and determined chap! I admire his drive and what he's achieved after such a devastating accident is simply incredible......but there was something missing from the book for me. I don't know what it was but I felt like I wanted more. Having said that the epilogue weirdly answered a lot of questions for me which made me wonder why that information wasn't elsewhere in the books. Perhaps that's it, perhaps it's the structure of the book that's bothering me. Overall though it's a great story to read.
April 21, 2019
It is an easy reading and with some thrilling moments of Kenton's adventures in the mountains.
I liked the Epilogue more than the rest of the book as it talks about KC's learning and feelings around being a mountaineer.
KC makes it very clear about his passion for climbing, something we should all have on at least some of the things we do in our lives.
Eventually I would give more starts to the book if I was more interested in climbing. So if you are I would recommend the reading.
I liked the Epilogue more than the rest of the book as it talks about KC's learning and feelings around being a mountaineer.
KC makes it very clear about his passion for climbing, something we should all have on at least some of the things we do in our lives.
Eventually I would give more starts to the book if I was more interested in climbing. So if you are I would recommend the reading.
September 17, 2020
If you love Adventure (or if you are an Armchair Adventurer most of the times), if you have already read at least a couple of books (if not more) on Everest expeditions or other Mountain Expeditions, you will enjoy this book. Book is fast paced detailing Kenton's mountaineering interest>hobby>career as a guide and his achievements! I especially like the prologue part in which Kenton has shared lot of perspective on different parts/dilemmas of this kind of life!
July 8, 2019
I read this book in 5 hours in one sitting. I genuinely did not put it down. A must read for all Everest fans and an insight into what divides the good from the great. Having recently been lucky enough to meet the author on Snowdon I can confirm that the nice down to earth bloke in the book is the real deal. Not JUST a 14 time (so far) Everest summiter but an all round gent too
June 12, 2020
Inspiring read.Incredible to read of his achievements after serious injury.Brilliant description of being first on the summit of Everest in heavy snow conditions looking at the pristine summit ridge as seen for the first time in 1953 by Bourdillon and Evans.Good discussion about what guiding an 8000m peak feels like and the impact on family.I would like to climb Everest with Kenton!
October 20, 2016
I loved this book. Kenton doesn't bog you down with mountaineering minutiae, but tells you enough to keep you interested and gives a very good insight into why climbers climb and the supporters that help. Easy enjoyable read.
August 8, 2019
One of the good books I've read on mountaineering. Loved reading about his life as he is one the guys I look up to. " Get it done " is my motto now.
Looking forward to more books by Legendary Mr. cool .
Cheers
Looking forward to more books by Legendary Mr. cool .
Cheers
June 5, 2016
Fabulous book, especially enjoyed the epilogue - covering KC's thoughts on rubbish, Sherpas and who gets to climb Everest!
June 7, 2016
I received a free copy via Netgalley in exchange for a honest review.
A brilliant insight into the thoughts and life of a mountaineer.
A wonderful read.
Highly recommended.
A brilliant insight into the thoughts and life of a mountaineer.
A wonderful read.
Highly recommended.
September 25, 2016
Thoroughly enjoyed this book, a little technical detail and a lot of adventure.
January 1, 2017
I enjoyed learning a bit about Kenton's history and his stories of climbing. His views on Everest were also interesting.
March 18, 2019
Loved this book. He has a really interesting perspective on balancing your passions and family.
October 1, 2019
Very cool (pun intended). But seriously, really easy read and very inspirational I found.
October 25, 2020
Very readable.
May 8, 2021
Very enjoyable, great to learn more about Kenton.
His podcast is well worth a listen as well!
His podcast is well worth a listen as well!
July 29, 2025
Feeding the rat. 3/5
Written 10 years ago now, this book is mildly interesting for the armchair mountaineer. I’m not sure Kenton really had the desire or belief to pen his life story at this point, which maybe explains why it took a few years to complete. It’s a whistlestop tour covering stories of his early climbing escapades around the world, his nasty accident in Wales and the development of his guiding career. He receives quite a bit of stick from purists for selling out as a climber, however hats off to him for forging a career out of guiding wealthy clients up mountains and loving every minute of it at the same time. This enthusiasm for adventure in the hills comes across in each chapter, as does his overall positive demeanour. The epilogue is the best chapter by far, where he touches on topics that are as relevant today as they were a decade ago. He’s extremely honest and reflective on the ethical and moral dilemmas within mountaineering, and as a result you get an endearing glimpse of the man. He also discusses his views on commercial guiding and the inherently selfish nature of the sport. Whilst not pushing the boundaries like someone such as Paul Ramsden, having just summitted Everest for the 19th time (May ‘25) Kenton is very much mountaineering royalty and deserves immense respect. Overall, this book was short, pacy and enjoyable, and saved by the final chapter.
Written 10 years ago now, this book is mildly interesting for the armchair mountaineer. I’m not sure Kenton really had the desire or belief to pen his life story at this point, which maybe explains why it took a few years to complete. It’s a whistlestop tour covering stories of his early climbing escapades around the world, his nasty accident in Wales and the development of his guiding career. He receives quite a bit of stick from purists for selling out as a climber, however hats off to him for forging a career out of guiding wealthy clients up mountains and loving every minute of it at the same time. This enthusiasm for adventure in the hills comes across in each chapter, as does his overall positive demeanour. The epilogue is the best chapter by far, where he touches on topics that are as relevant today as they were a decade ago. He’s extremely honest and reflective on the ethical and moral dilemmas within mountaineering, and as a result you get an endearing glimpse of the man. He also discusses his views on commercial guiding and the inherently selfish nature of the sport. Whilst not pushing the boundaries like someone such as Paul Ramsden, having just summitted Everest for the 19th time (May ‘25) Kenton is very much mountaineering royalty and deserves immense respect. Overall, this book was short, pacy and enjoyable, and saved by the final chapter.
January 14, 2024
Certainly a book of remarkable achievements, but perhaps not as well composed a work as it might have been. Focussed, but could've explored some of the interesting events and relationships further (if he was willing to!)
Reading weekend book no. 3
Reading weekend book no. 3
October 30, 2021
Get it Done
One Great book from a very inspiring man who’s very determined to say the least it’s make you think what we can do a humans
One Great book from a very inspiring man who’s very determined to say the least it’s make you think what we can do a humans
April 16, 2022
A great and very personal autobiography that has definitely changed my views - both of Everest and of Kenton himself. Well worth a read for those interested.
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