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Custom Socks: Knit to Fit Your Feet
Whether you knit them toe-up or top-down, getting just the right fit on hand knit socks can be a major challenge! In Custom Socks , Kate Atherley sets out to teach knitters of all levels the skills and tools they need to understand sock fit, and to knit a pair of socks that fit properly. She calls on her years of experience as Knitty 's Managing Technical Editor, where she has edited hundreds of sock patterns, to share this information in a way that is easy to understand with patterns that inspire.
So go ahead and treat yourself to these 15 original sock patterns that are easily customizable and work with any needle configuration. Your feet will thank you!
So go ahead and treat yourself to these 15 original sock patterns that are easily customizable and work with any needle configuration. Your feet will thank you!
192 pages, Paperback
First published July 10, 2015
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228 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 46 reviews
August 14, 2015
When I think of knitting books devoted entirely to socks, I think of books with a little bit of a description about the inspiration for each pattern, some background on the techniques, and perhaps some short sections at the beginning and end about the techniques. I love those books and have quite a few of them, but this book is so much more than that.
Kate has done an amazing job of providing all the sock information everyone should have when knitting socks. She talks about yarn (construction, content yardages), an inclusive range of needle options (and how to handle the quirks of each choice), shoe sizes, and how to measure your feet (and your gauge!) before you get to the first pattern.
Every section of this book is helpfully colour-coded so that you can flip to the section you want quickly, but this is a book that you should read cover-to-cover at least once before you pull out your needles and frantically cast on everything.
I love that Kate has taken the results of her foot size survey and broken it out into clear and accessible information. For example: one of my favourite charts is that she took the standard shoe sizes and provided the average for foot circumference. When you’re trying to knit a pair of socks for someone too far away to measure (or for a surprise gift!), this information is invaluable so that you can make socks that fit that person perfectly.
Kate has provided two template socks (one toe-up and one top-down), and then done all the math so that you can have perfectly fitting socks in any gauge, for any foot size. As a person who enjoys seeing math magic behind the curtain I appreciate that she provided the formulas, but you can just skim over them if you are math-adverse.
In the last section of the book, Kate provides a section of adjustments for non-average feet. There are suggestions for how to adapt socks if you have differently shaped toes, shapely ankles and a variety of other adjustments that you can use to make your socks perfect for you.
This book is great for new sock knitters and veterans alike. For veterans, this book is impressive in its depth and breadth, and will help you refine patterns for you individual feet and think critically about if your socks are the best that they can be. For new sock knitters, they are starting their sock knitting career off with all the information they need to put their best foot forward.
Kate has done an amazing job of providing all the sock information everyone should have when knitting socks. She talks about yarn (construction, content yardages), an inclusive range of needle options (and how to handle the quirks of each choice), shoe sizes, and how to measure your feet (and your gauge!) before you get to the first pattern.
Every section of this book is helpfully colour-coded so that you can flip to the section you want quickly, but this is a book that you should read cover-to-cover at least once before you pull out your needles and frantically cast on everything.
I love that Kate has taken the results of her foot size survey and broken it out into clear and accessible information. For example: one of my favourite charts is that she took the standard shoe sizes and provided the average for foot circumference. When you’re trying to knit a pair of socks for someone too far away to measure (or for a surprise gift!), this information is invaluable so that you can make socks that fit that person perfectly.
Kate has provided two template socks (one toe-up and one top-down), and then done all the math so that you can have perfectly fitting socks in any gauge, for any foot size. As a person who enjoys seeing math magic behind the curtain I appreciate that she provided the formulas, but you can just skim over them if you are math-adverse.
In the last section of the book, Kate provides a section of adjustments for non-average feet. There are suggestions for how to adapt socks if you have differently shaped toes, shapely ankles and a variety of other adjustments that you can use to make your socks perfect for you.
This book is great for new sock knitters and veterans alike. For veterans, this book is impressive in its depth and breadth, and will help you refine patterns for you individual feet and think critically about if your socks are the best that they can be. For new sock knitters, they are starting their sock knitting career off with all the information they need to put their best foot forward.
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October 11, 2017I don't give star ratings to craft books, but this would definitely be a 4 star book if I did.
Once I worked through the exhaustive measurements & formulas section (it's less scary than it sounds, trust me!), I can now safely say this is immensely comprehensive and inclusive of all types of foot & leg sizes and shapes. Taking your measurements as shown in the first chapter, combine with your gauge (for a basic stockinette average, I took the average gauge from a few well-fitting pairs made with the same yarn and needles), and you can have a wealth of calculations and tweaks to figure out. It was a bit tedious, but the formulas and math are spelled out quite easily; I found figuring these numbers easier than figuring out how to fit some stitch repeats into projects!
While I have a vanilla sock pattern that works fine for me, I will be applying some of the more detailed measurement tweaks to my next pair of socks to see if they'll fit even better.
The patterns contained within range from basic to complex, but they all provide a technical note beforehand, providing practical tie-ins with the "lessons" of sock fit, like why a cabled socks has more stitches than a regular sock and how that affects fit, or how certain counts were adjusted for stitch repeats. What's more, most of the socks (aside from the knee socks, and some of the more complex patterned ones) provide instructions and charts for top down AND toe up socks, in addition to the multitudes of sizes provided.
The only criticism I can come up with is that there is nothing mentioned on how to adapt the formulas and measurements for short row heels. All patterns and samples are worked with a standard gusset and heel flap, which I have no issues with, but I would have liked to see at least a side bar box on how to adapt the formula for short rows.
Highly recommended!! Even if you have a good basic sock pattern that you already use that works, you can still gain a wealth of information from this and apply it to make your socks even more perfect.
(Cross posted on my blog.)
Once I worked through the exhaustive measurements & formulas section (it's less scary than it sounds, trust me!), I can now safely say this is immensely comprehensive and inclusive of all types of foot & leg sizes and shapes. Taking your measurements as shown in the first chapter, combine with your gauge (for a basic stockinette average, I took the average gauge from a few well-fitting pairs made with the same yarn and needles), and you can have a wealth of calculations and tweaks to figure out. It was a bit tedious, but the formulas and math are spelled out quite easily; I found figuring these numbers easier than figuring out how to fit some stitch repeats into projects!
While I have a vanilla sock pattern that works fine for me, I will be applying some of the more detailed measurement tweaks to my next pair of socks to see if they'll fit even better.
The patterns contained within range from basic to complex, but they all provide a technical note beforehand, providing practical tie-ins with the "lessons" of sock fit, like why a cabled socks has more stitches than a regular sock and how that affects fit, or how certain counts were adjusted for stitch repeats. What's more, most of the socks (aside from the knee socks, and some of the more complex patterned ones) provide instructions and charts for top down AND toe up socks, in addition to the multitudes of sizes provided.
The only criticism I can come up with is that there is nothing mentioned on how to adapt the formulas and measurements for short row heels. All patterns and samples are worked with a standard gusset and heel flap, which I have no issues with, but I would have liked to see at least a side bar box on how to adapt the formula for short rows.
Highly recommended!! Even if you have a good basic sock pattern that you already use that works, you can still gain a wealth of information from this and apply it to make your socks even more perfect.
(Cross posted on my blog.)
August 13, 2015
Having gotten my hands on Kate Atherley’s newest knitting book, Custom Socks, I’m happy to report back for anyone who is on the fence about buying a copy! But first, some background on me and full disclosure time: I have been knitting for over a decade and co-authored Anticraft: Knitting, Stitching, and Beading for the Slightly Sinister, published by F+W in 2007. I have also worked with Atherley in the past on personal branding and various graphic design projects. Custom Socks is published by Interweave, which is now owned by F+W.
Atherley’s bio will tell you that she’s in a unique position as a knitter, having a degree in mathematics as well as fashion design, and also having worked in the tech industry “translating” between the nerdy coders and the muggles. She’s not just boasting here; her experience is pivotal to her ability to accurately connect between written pattern and finished object, and how to manipulate the pattern to affect that object. I remember when I first began knitting and finally felt adventurous enough to modify a pattern to fit me better… and I also remember how dismayed I was when I realized that I had, yet again, picked a hobby that involves a fuckton of math.
Custom Socks is written for every knitter that has had that realization and experienced that dismay. Some of us just aren’t good at math, and that’s ok. That doesn’t mean we’re not good knitters, and it doesn’t mean we’re not good people, it just means that we’re not good at math. Or maybe some of us are okay at math, but overwhelmed by what seems like an insurmountable amount of math needed to design custom piece. Custom Socks is geared to help. Not only does Atherley explain, in detail and with diagrams, how socks are constructed; what the purpose of each section of a sock is; how best to make it fit your foot; and, yes, both from a toe-up and top-down method, she has done the math for you. Let me repeat: SHE HAS DONE THE FUCKING MATH FOR YOU.
You can’t help but notice the tables when flipping through Custom Socks. Tables upon tables upon tables, extrapolating data from hundreds of foot measurements (gathered by Atherley over the course of many years from volunteers of all shapes and sizes) into your own personal number of cast on stitches, gusset sizes, leg circumferences, and more. These tables essentially turn her toe-up and top-down simple sock patterns into plug-and-play bespoke sock patterns: take your own measurements and follow the instructions. That’s it. Really. No, really!
And lest those knitters with math prowess (you lucky bastards) think there’s nothing in this book for them, Atherley’s in-depth technique explorations on making gussets, casting on and binding off, knitting fabric that is hard-wearing, and spicing up her basic sock recipes with texture and colorwork make this book a must-read. In addition to the two simple sock patterns, there are eleven case studies in making socks with varying degrees of complexity that will satisfy knitters ready to take their sock designing to the next level.
What knitting skills are needed to truly make Custom Socks a worthwhile purchase? If you can knit, purl, increase, decrease, and knit in the round with your method of choice (DPNs, magic loop, etc.), you can make custom socks. Now go forth and knit!
Atherley’s bio will tell you that she’s in a unique position as a knitter, having a degree in mathematics as well as fashion design, and also having worked in the tech industry “translating” between the nerdy coders and the muggles. She’s not just boasting here; her experience is pivotal to her ability to accurately connect between written pattern and finished object, and how to manipulate the pattern to affect that object. I remember when I first began knitting and finally felt adventurous enough to modify a pattern to fit me better… and I also remember how dismayed I was when I realized that I had, yet again, picked a hobby that involves a fuckton of math.
Custom Socks is written for every knitter that has had that realization and experienced that dismay. Some of us just aren’t good at math, and that’s ok. That doesn’t mean we’re not good knitters, and it doesn’t mean we’re not good people, it just means that we’re not good at math. Or maybe some of us are okay at math, but overwhelmed by what seems like an insurmountable amount of math needed to design custom piece. Custom Socks is geared to help. Not only does Atherley explain, in detail and with diagrams, how socks are constructed; what the purpose of each section of a sock is; how best to make it fit your foot; and, yes, both from a toe-up and top-down method, she has done the math for you. Let me repeat: SHE HAS DONE THE FUCKING MATH FOR YOU.
You can’t help but notice the tables when flipping through Custom Socks. Tables upon tables upon tables, extrapolating data from hundreds of foot measurements (gathered by Atherley over the course of many years from volunteers of all shapes and sizes) into your own personal number of cast on stitches, gusset sizes, leg circumferences, and more. These tables essentially turn her toe-up and top-down simple sock patterns into plug-and-play bespoke sock patterns: take your own measurements and follow the instructions. That’s it. Really. No, really!
And lest those knitters with math prowess (you lucky bastards) think there’s nothing in this book for them, Atherley’s in-depth technique explorations on making gussets, casting on and binding off, knitting fabric that is hard-wearing, and spicing up her basic sock recipes with texture and colorwork make this book a must-read. In addition to the two simple sock patterns, there are eleven case studies in making socks with varying degrees of complexity that will satisfy knitters ready to take their sock designing to the next level.
What knitting skills are needed to truly make Custom Socks a worthwhile purchase? If you can knit, purl, increase, decrease, and knit in the round with your method of choice (DPNs, magic loop, etc.), you can make custom socks. Now go forth and knit!
September 24, 2025
This is the best sock knitting book I’ve ever seen. It has an astounding number of directions, charts, formulas and other information presented very clearly. It tells you how to do the math so that each sock you knit will fit perfectly (and I do mean each sock - she even tells you how to modify the pattern for different sized feet!) Kate Atherly is a wonder. All of her books have been good, but this one is spectacular.
November 10, 2015
If aliens landed on Earth and were handed this book, I am fairly certain they could learn to make excellent well-fitting socks with no prior knowledge. It's a comprehensive yet approachable book that easily qualifies as the sock knitting equivalent of June Hemmons Hiatt's encyclopedic Principles of Knitting and it also benefits from a close read. As an experienced sock knitter, I was primarily interested in the patterns (Oh, Valencia! will be on my needles shortly), but quickly found myself engrossed in the detailed instructions - even if I gloss over the charts with specific stitch counts, I'll return to her ideas for fit and finish. After I've knit a few patterns, I'm almost positive this will become the book I recommend to people interested in knitting socks, "plain vanilla" or otherwise. I don't want to knit *every* pattern within, but that's not a reason not to make space on my bookshelf for this impressive resource.
March 28, 2021
Borrowed from the library and now I’m going to buy my own copy.
July 3, 2022
There are books (Austen's Pride and Prejudice, or Fisher's How to Cook a Wolf, for example) which one can turn to again and again and derive new pleasure no matter how often one has read the book before—unless you have memorized each magical turn of phrase, there will still be surprises and delights.
And then there are books—like this one—that one might turn to again and again, because it is useful. An atlas, perhaps, or a dictionary, or a collection of household cleaning tips. Most of the time these are not intended to be read for pleasure, and it is perhaps just as well.
I am sure Custom Socks is a useful book, but like atlases, dictionaries, or cleaning tips, it mostly contains information that is perhaps moreo useful when accessed via apps, or the web. It does not provide a particularly engaging reading experience, at least not for me. It contains many, many spreadsheets and tables and lists, all of which appear to be the sort of thing that could easily be autogenerated by typing one's foot circumference or length into a web site.
The patterns included are essentially the same method, twice (toe-up or top down), the same heel construction, only differing in the 'patterning' (how unhelpful that pattern must do double duty in English) on the leg/instep. There are moments where the author prides herself on her cleverness in adapating a differently-sized repeat so it can connect neatly with other parts of the sock, but that's all just par for the course for an average knitter, really.
So I was hoping for an exciting survey of the world of socks—perhaps beautifully and exciting written—but I mostly got a whole bunch of really, really similar sock patterns, written about in a forgettable way. (Which doesn't have to be the case: Stephanie Pearl McPhee, Elizabeth Zimmermann, Clara Parkes—many authors have tackled knitting and written entertaining prose while doing so).
Note: I have written a novel (not yet published), so now I will suffer pangs of guilt every time I offer less than five stars. In my subjective opinion, the stars suggest:
(5* = one of my all-time favourites, 4* = really enjoyed it, 3* = readable but not thrilling, 2* = actually disappointing, and 1* = hated it. As a statistician I know most books are 3s, but I am biased in my selection and end up mostly with 4s, thank goodness.)
And then there are books—like this one—that one might turn to again and again, because it is useful. An atlas, perhaps, or a dictionary, or a collection of household cleaning tips. Most of the time these are not intended to be read for pleasure, and it is perhaps just as well.
I am sure Custom Socks is a useful book, but like atlases, dictionaries, or cleaning tips, it mostly contains information that is perhaps moreo useful when accessed via apps, or the web. It does not provide a particularly engaging reading experience, at least not for me. It contains many, many spreadsheets and tables and lists, all of which appear to be the sort of thing that could easily be autogenerated by typing one's foot circumference or length into a web site.
The patterns included are essentially the same method, twice (toe-up or top down), the same heel construction, only differing in the 'patterning' (how unhelpful that pattern must do double duty in English) on the leg/instep. There are moments where the author prides herself on her cleverness in adapating a differently-sized repeat so it can connect neatly with other parts of the sock, but that's all just par for the course for an average knitter, really.
So I was hoping for an exciting survey of the world of socks—perhaps beautifully and exciting written—but I mostly got a whole bunch of really, really similar sock patterns, written about in a forgettable way. (Which doesn't have to be the case: Stephanie Pearl McPhee, Elizabeth Zimmermann, Clara Parkes—many authors have tackled knitting and written entertaining prose while doing so).
Note: I have written a novel (not yet published), so now I will suffer pangs of guilt every time I offer less than five stars. In my subjective opinion, the stars suggest:
(5* = one of my all-time favourites, 4* = really enjoyed it, 3* = readable but not thrilling, 2* = actually disappointing, and 1* = hated it. As a statistician I know most books are 3s, but I am biased in my selection and end up mostly with 4s, thank goodness.)
March 10, 2019
I really wish I'd had this book a decade ago when I started knitting socks! I'd figured out most of the custom fit modifications over many, many years, and many, many pairs of poorly fitting socks. I'm pretty sure my bilateral lipedema/lymphedema precludes me from having perfect fit socks that aren't ankle socks, but I've gotten closer and closer over time (and with better treatments).
There's a lot of math in here, and a lot about fit (as is expected), but there's also so much information here just about sock knitting in general: where to pick up stitches at the heel corner to avoid holes, how to make your ssk's look less zig zaggy, toe shapes, etc.
The math is handled really well, too. You take all your measurements and then just plug them into whatever formula you need (sometimes you'll need gauge data, too), and there are formulas (formulae?) for what seems like anything or everything your feet and legs might do. I mean, I have the weirdest measurements and I still found pretty much all my "problems" in the scenarios.
You're probably either going to want to take a lot of notes or buy a copy for reference - I'm usually 100% digital, but I really suggest the physical book for this one. The formatting on the Kindle version isn't so great.
There's a lot of math in here, and a lot about fit (as is expected), but there's also so much information here just about sock knitting in general: where to pick up stitches at the heel corner to avoid holes, how to make your ssk's look less zig zaggy, toe shapes, etc.
The math is handled really well, too. You take all your measurements and then just plug them into whatever formula you need (sometimes you'll need gauge data, too), and there are formulas (formulae?) for what seems like anything or everything your feet and legs might do. I mean, I have the weirdest measurements and I still found pretty much all my "problems" in the scenarios.
You're probably either going to want to take a lot of notes or buy a copy for reference - I'm usually 100% digital, but I really suggest the physical book for this one. The formatting on the Kindle version isn't so great.
December 27, 2017
This is a book that is written as if it was a Ph. D. Dissertation on how to knit a pair of socks that fit. There are lots of charts and math. As a person who is adverse to math, I didn't read any of the parts that pertained to fit. Personally, if the fit is close enough, that's good enough for me. I knit for the enjoyment of it, and having to do endless calculations takes the fun out of knitting for me. Also, from past experience, all that calculating doesn't necessarily turn out like it is supposed to.
I also don't like her patterns without a reinforced heel flap. For me, socks wear out the quickest at the heel. A reinforced heel flap makes socks last longer. Why go to all of the trouble of knitting a beautiful pair of socks only to have them wear out after a few wearings?
I also don't like her patterns without a reinforced heel flap. For me, socks wear out the quickest at the heel. A reinforced heel flap makes socks last longer. Why go to all of the trouble of knitting a beautiful pair of socks only to have them wear out after a few wearings?
May 3, 2023
The best sock knitting book I have come across. By measuring your feet in many different places and then using a little math, Atherley provides formulas for the perfect fitted sock. She provides formulas for both Top-down and toe-up construction with variations for cast-ons and bind offs.
Like most sock knitting books it also has some patterns for socks with special decorative stitch patterns. I'm not interested in these yet. Mostly I just want socks that fit. Atherley's book has helped me to understand where I have gone wrong in the past and how to fix it. If I was to buy only one sock knitting book, this would be the one.
Like most sock knitting books it also has some patterns for socks with special decorative stitch patterns. I'm not interested in these yet. Mostly I just want socks that fit. Atherley's book has helped me to understand where I have gone wrong in the past and how to fix it. If I was to buy only one sock knitting book, this would be the one.
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June 16, 2021This book is everything that ever scared me about knitting socks. Very technical, lots of tables and calculations. It also includes the dreaded drawn illustrations, sometimes even with arrows indicating movement, that my brain just can’t compute.
Luckily, my feet seem to be pretty average. I’m on my second pair of vanilla socks, trying different heels and toes, and they fit quite nicely.
So, I might come back to this if I come across a pattern that needs some adjusting to fit me, but I won‘t complain if I don’t have to.
Luckily, my feet seem to be pretty average. I’m on my second pair of vanilla socks, trying different heels and toes, and they fit quite nicely.
So, I might come back to this if I come across a pattern that needs some adjusting to fit me, but I won‘t complain if I don’t have to.
January 10, 2019
Lots of excellent content! I was able to work out the formulas and will knit the ribbed socks as per my own measurements. I'm still confused as to whether or not I account for negative ease on her patterns though. I'm intrigued by the toe up versions and may give them a whirl. But the best part of the book are the knee high socks at the end. SO. GORGEOUS. 🤩
January 5, 2018
I've been knitting socks for a long time but still had issues with getting them to fit my odd little feet - I wear a 6½ WW with a VERY low arch. With help from this book, my last pair fit me perfectly. Kate is the best!
January 27, 2019
Highly technical manual for those who love the math of making socks.
Atherley has done some serious research into the statistics of measuring human feet, and then shows the knitter how to use that information to create the perfect fitting sock.
Atherley has done some serious research into the statistics of measuring human feet, and then shows the knitter how to use that information to create the perfect fitting sock.
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February 8, 2020This book provides the math behind a sock pattern and how to make that work for you both in fit and style. It also includes a variety of patterns that illustrate these principles. So far, this is the book I may end up buying (currently reading my way through the library’s selection of sock books).
February 13, 2021
My kind of book! It explains all the aspects of sock knitting with some very nice pattern examples. The focus will help me with my usual ideas of adapting just about everything in a pattern. This explains and set you free to dream.
November 27, 2023
Only one kind of heel
I have a very high arch and instep and this books treats my small but high arch as a low arch and has nothing on how to fit my large instep. The other information is good but this was useless for me.
I have a very high arch and instep and this books treats my small but high arch as a low arch and has nothing on how to fit my large instep. The other information is good but this was useless for me.
January 30, 2024
Great technical book
Clearly written explanations of the whys and wherefores of sock construction. Gives real insight into what needs to happen to make perfectly fitting socks. Great patterns too. All with instructions for both cuff down or toe up.
Clearly written explanations of the whys and wherefores of sock construction. Gives real insight into what needs to happen to make perfectly fitting socks. Great patterns too. All with instructions for both cuff down or toe up.
March 1, 2025
The subtitle says it all. This is a helpful guide to knit socks that fit based on your measurements and your gauge. I love the tips on adjusting stitch counts based on the pattern. Highly recommend, especially if you want to make socks for people other than yourself.
November 29, 2017
This is really good book when it comes to fitting socks to your feet.
October 20, 2018
some nice sock patterns in a range of styles
May 22, 2019
Very helpful for fitting.
September 4, 2019
This book is a great resource on making socks that fit.
September 24, 2019
Too much detail for me, but good if you have trouble making your socks fit you.
February 9, 2021
Of course, I didn't read the entire book but it really help me to figure out the calculations I need to knit my first pair of socks!
October 23, 2020
What a terrific book! I recently took a class with Kate & found her to be a terrific teacher - energetic, accessible, thoughtful & organized. I figured her books could be the same - they are!
February 26, 2019
Next step sock knitting, with all the charts you'd see from an Ann Budd book. I really didn't think there was room for an intermediate book, but I really think this one is useful in terms of foot measurement and sock math.
May 5, 2025
Has helped me immensely to finally knit fitting socks for my large ladies' feet! The book offers adaptations for all foot sizes, shapes and gauges. The corresponding calculations are easy to follow. However, the knitting patterns (apart from the ribbed sock) were not for me. Also, anyone looking for heel types other than heel flap and gusset will unfortunately not find what they are searching for here. Off to start my next pair of handknit socks!
November 28, 2024
Very good resource and many helpful charts. A couple of the patterns look interesting to knit
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February 14, 2017Interesting book, but I think I either need to read it on my iPad or buy a physical copy.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 46 reviews