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The Living Goddess: A Journey Into the Heart of Kathmandu

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In a small medieval palace on Kathmandu's Durbar Square lives Nepal's famous Living Goddess -a child as young as three who is chosen from a caste of Buddhist goldsmiths to watch over the country and protect its people. To Nepalis she is the embodiment of Devi (the universal goddess) and for centuries their Hindu kings have sought her blessing to legitimize their rule. Legends swirl about her, for the facts are shrouded in secrecy and closely guarded by dynasties of priests and caretakers. How come a Buddhist girl is worshipped by autocratic Hindu rulers? Are the initiation rituals as macabre as they are rumoured to be? And what fate awaits the Living Goddesses when they attain puberty and are dismissed from their role? Weaving together myth, religious belief, modern history and court gossip, Isabella Tree takes us on a compelling and fascinating journey to the esoteric, hidden heart of Nepal. Through her unprecedented access to the many layers of Nepalese society, she is able to put the country's troubled modern history in the context of the complex spiritual beliefs and practices that inform the role of the little girl at its centre. Deeply felt, emotionally engaged and written after over a decade of travel and research, The Living Goddess is a compassionate and illuminating enquiry into this reclusive Himalayan country -a revelation.

384 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2014

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Isabella Tree

16 books160 followers

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 31 reviews
Profile Image for Joe.
559 reviews20 followers
October 11, 2014
This was a very good book with a lot of information. The author did not cite much of her work or discuss her research, but it seemed to make sense with what I have read or seen elsewhere. The author makes the book interesting by combining history, mythology, theology, and her own experiences into a chronological journey. There are simultaneous chronological journeys, however, which makes it somewhat confusing. The first is with respect to time and history, which makes sense; but the second is her own journey of travelling to Nepal and learning about the living Goddess. This is what becomes confusing because she writes as if it is a journal, which means that the truth changes as she learns more. Regardless, I think it is a good start for gaining some insight into the cultural and religious aspects of Nepal.
Profile Image for Bijesh Nagesh.
Author 12 books18 followers
March 20, 2014
One of the most perspective-changing non-fiction books I've read. It's brilliant as well as beautiful on so many levels.

Of all the amazing thing I learned in 'The Living Goddess' one thing Isabella Tree said in the final Acknowledgements section of the book comes to mind...

"... The traditional guardians of the Living Goddess tradition were beginning to feel that continued secrecy could be their downfall. If they did not attempt to show the world the value, at least, of the esoteric knowledge they had been protecting for centuries, these wisdoms could be in danger of disappearing altogether."

In my opinion, no matter personal beliefs, everybody should read this book. It's as much a journey into the human soul as it is into the realms of the divine. It's a look into the soul of the supreme Goddess (the AdiShakthi MahaMaya) who, whether you believe in her or not, fills your heart with a sense of hope and purpose, proving that many of the modern answers we seek as a society rest in traditions of the past.

One more noteworthy snippet, also from the Acknowledgements section:

"...The Living Goddess is like a diamond with many facets: she appears in many different ways to many different people. Gathering in all these perspectives enriched my understanding of the Kumari and took me in directions I could never have imagined."

Isabella Tree's nearly THIRTEEN years of work on this book is an inspiration befitting a goddess.
Profile Image for Asim Shrestha.
48 reviews1 follower
May 11, 2017
An intricate and wonderful description of a fascinating Nepalese tradition of worshiping a virgin girl as a Goddess. The writer blends history, culture, mythology and tradition so well to make the content mesmerizing. Full marks for extensive research that went behind for creation of this book. Once you start reading, you just can't put it down.
Profile Image for Rakhi Saxena.
37 reviews1 follower
July 16, 2017
Spectacularly enlightening. The subject is fascinating. Coming from a foreigner, I don’t know how authentic the described Nepalese rituals, traditions, or the myths are, but they are still intriguing. Impressive research though.
21 reviews1 follower
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April 20, 2021
Very interesting book! Kathmandu is a city full of magic, faith and present in the imagination of people from all continents. The capital of Nepal holds a precious cultural, historical and religious treasure. There are temples, sacred images, historic palaces, a very peculiar gastronomy and a diverse population in terms of customs, beliefs and physiognomies.
Kathmandu , the largest city in Nepal, is the country’s political and cultural capital, where Nepalese arrived from all corners of the country and were assimilated.
I would like to recommend this article, about Kurami, the living goddess:
https://marcozero.blog.br/kumari-the-...
Profile Image for Aruna Joshi.
1 review
April 9, 2025
When I started reading the book, I thought I would read about Kumari, the living goddess tradition, and I assumed I wouldn't discover anything new that I didn't already know. I expected it to be a fun read filled with stories and tales. But as I read further, I began to see the writer's capacity and depth of understanding—how she connected different dimensions of the stories with her own experiences, with what was happening in the country, and with what the Newars, or people in general, believed. This led to a richer narrative that tells the story from multiple perspectives.
Profile Image for scarlettraces.
3,093 reviews20 followers
not-finished
May 15, 2021
I read most of this, as it was perfectly readable & relatively interesting, but I just am not very interested in religion, and it felt like there was a "power behind the throne" gender argument starting to be articulated.
Profile Image for Heidi Smith.
82 reviews4 followers
January 3, 2022
Beautifully written and so thoroughly yet clearly explained. I am deeply fascinated by how both Buddhist and Hindu tradition merge together for the worship of Devi, as we explore the cultural significance of a young girl who is believed to be the living goddess. I would highly recommend.
Profile Image for Pransu Khakurel.
106 reviews1 follower
December 6, 2018
The book Not only talks about Kumari but also gives proper knowledge on History of Nepa Valley (Kathmandu) and Unified Nepal.
Profile Image for Ansell.
152 reviews
January 3, 2019
Often fascinating, usually bizarre, but occasionally over burdened with local words.
Profile Image for Pollyanna Darling.
Author 3 books14 followers
May 26, 2019
A fascinating window into a world I knew nothing about. One that reveres the feminine divine forces of creation - an oasis in the desert of patriarchy.
11 reviews
August 8, 2019
Fascinating book. Really enjoyed it and learned a lot about Nepal and it's history.
Profile Image for Rabin Rai.
156 reviews1 follower
October 27, 2019
pretty long winded and not concise. nonetheless, the book helped demystify the kumari goddess.
Profile Image for Catherine Hunter.
23 reviews1 follower
January 13, 2020
'She does not smile, if she did, it would be an invitation to heaven and you would die.'
An interesting glimpse into this part of Nepalese culture.

9 reviews
March 30, 2020
A good book if you want to learn the historic connection between kumari and Kings. Very well written.
5 reviews
June 21, 2020
Reading this book one gets a great insight on Nepal. However, it is lengthier than required and lot of it can be skipped. It's also Illogically arranged.
87 reviews39 followers
August 5, 2020
If you're planning to visit Nepal, do read this book beforehand. Gives such a beautiful outlay of the history and culture of the country that the mountain nation will seem all the more appealing!
87 reviews39 followers
September 3, 2022
Rivetting read of the past present and current day of Nepal , it's history, culture and a geopolitical tensions
Profile Image for Elisenda Fusté Forès.
96 reviews3 followers
December 9, 2023
I used this book as a bibliography for my next research paper. I'm absolutely fascinated for the Kumari Goddess practice.
Profile Image for Faloesy.
129 reviews3 followers
February 14, 2024
Hoewel een paar hoofdstukken me echt heel erg aanspraken kwam ik er maar heel moeilijk doorheen. Wel heel leuk om heel de tijd Nepal voor je te zien tijdens het lezen.
Profile Image for Raisha .
90 reviews
August 16, 2024
I really enjoyed learning about the history of Nepal, especially after 2005, as I was not familiar with all the political situations of the country.
1 review1 follower
August 13, 2023
scholarly but intimate

I learned so much about Nepal and it’s history and the Kumari tradition from this intimate view and scholarly writing.
Profile Image for Paromita Bardoloi.
Author 3 books22 followers
December 12, 2016
Woven around the mountains of Nepal, The Living Goddess by Isabella Tree is a vividly told tale of mystery, myth, history and tradition, around the Kumari tradition. The book begins with Tree’s days as a teenaged back-packer in Kathmandu and her chance glimpse of the living Goddess.

Through meticulous research over the decades and frequent travels, The Living Goddess talks about the mystery behind the tradition of worshipping a young girl who is believed to be the possessor of the divine Goddess within her. The girl is chosen by the priests on a precise standard of perfection. For an average onlooker, it might just enthrall one with all the tradition and rituals that goes with it.

However, Tree has scathed the surface and peeled the layers around the mystery that shrouds it. Through her book, she questions the afterlife of a Kumari, once she is uninstalled as one, just before she attains puberty.

Tree takes the readers through the tradition, the sacrifices and the belief that creates this whole tradition. What will strike a reader is the insane amount of cattle sacrifice that goes on to satisfy the Goddess. To my mind, it left a question, “Does the Goddess need this obscene amount of blood sacrifice to be satisfied?”

She then weaves the facts along with myths and takes the reader through the political instability of Nepal. Through her narrative she wonders why a Hindu monarch bows to a Buddhist girl (the Kumari is chosen from the Shakya or Bajracharya clan of the Nepalese Newari community) and are the initial rituals as macabre as rumored to be?

To go deeper into the tradition she very painstakingly interviews a few ex- Kumaris, of which the interview with Rashmila Shakya is noteworthy. Her parents declare that the moment Rashmila as a Goddess wore the Naga-Mala, she felt different – she felt like a Goddess. Tree talks about the difficult transition of a once worshipped Goddess to a mortal who has to join school and live an ordinary life. The most defining part of this book is the women – the kumaris, their mothers, grandmothers, aunts, sisters and caretakers.

She very poignantly talks of the history of Nepal and its association with the tradition. As she narrates, “The sense of history is all-pervasive in Nepal. But it is not history in the western sense — it’s the stuff of myth and legend. The stories of the kings of Nepal and all the great characters of the past, even if only a couple of centuries ago, are interwoven with the machinations of gods and goddesses, sages and bodhisattvas. It’s a very rich, multi-layered way of seeing the world. The Newars — the indigenous people of the Valley — see myth as a living thing, illuminating the events of the present. So when shocking things happen, like the royal family massacre, it is often seen in the context of myth coming to fruition.”

It’s strange that even after the massacre of the royal family, the people attributed it to the wrath of the Goddesses and the karmic ties. Everything in the valley seems to be tied down to the myths and legends.

Though things are changing, yet the roots and faith in the past still stays on, as the Kumari Puja still continues in spite of protest against it from several quarters as child abuse. Though in places the book feels like a history book, the research and interpretation is very impressive. It takes a story teller of a very high caliber to stitch every bit of information of the past and present together and put forward a story that is impeccably told.

The Living Goddess is a highly recommended read for anyone, who wants to dwell in the web where Gods, history, politics and belief come together.
Profile Image for Jane Wilson-Howarth.
Author 22 books21 followers
March 14, 2021
Erudite and fluent and meticulously researched. I have lived in Nepal nine years and still learned a great deal from reading this book.
Profile Image for Diana Ventoruzzo.
4 reviews3 followers
July 12, 2015
Mesmerizing and enlightening. In fact, so mesmerizing I wasn’t able to stop reading even when I should have been doing something else, like working, or eating, or sleeping.
I wouldn’t say I understood everything. There were far too many names for me to always tell one apart from the other, too many back and forth through the history of Nepal – which I don’t know anything about – and too many references to Buddhism’s rituals I wasn’t able to grasp, not to mention the ones to Hinduism.
Still, one of the most intriguing book I’ve read so far.
Profile Image for Cat.
93 reviews60 followers
April 12, 2017
Spectacular read. Even if you dislike the style or whatever, the subject matter is fascinating. I also enjoyed the double-chronology thing - brilliantly executed to provide the context (which is essential to actually try and understand the phenomena instead of just fawning over how exotic it is).
Would recommend.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 31 reviews

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