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Poets and Pahlevans: A Journey into the Heart of Iran
Marcello Di Cintio prepares for his “journey into the heart of Iran” with the utmost diligence. He takes lessons in Farsi, researches Persian poetry and sharpens his wrestling skills by returning to the mat after a gap of some years. Knowing that there is a special relationship between heroic poetry and the various styles of traditional Persian wrestling, he sets out to discover how Iranians “reconcile creativity with combat.”
From the moment of his arrival in Tehran, the author is overwhelmed by hospitality. He immerses himself in male company in tea houses, conversing while smoking the qalyun or water pipe. Iranian men are only too willing to talk, especially about politics. Confusingly, he is told conflicting statements–that all Iranians love George Bush, that all Iranians hate George Bush; that life was infinitely better under the Shah, that the mullahs swept away the corruption of the Shah’s regime and made life better for all.
Once out of Tehran, he learns where the traditional forms of wrestling are practised. His path through the country is directed by a search for the variant disciplines and local techniques of wrestling and a need to visit sites and shrines associated with the great Persian Hafez, Ferdosi, Omar Khayyám, Attar, Shahriyar and many others. Everywhere his quest leads him, he discovers that poetry is loved and quoted by everyone from taxi-drivers to students.
His engagement with Iranian culture is he wrestles (sometimes reluctantly) when invited, samples illegal home-brew alcohol, attends a wedding, joins mourners, learns a new way to drink tea and attempts to observe the Ramazan fast, though not a Muslim himself. Though he has inevitable brushes with officialdom, he never feels in danger, even when he hears that a Canadian photo-journalist has apparently been beaten to death in a police cell during the author’s visit. The outraged and horrified reaction of those around him to this violent act tightens the already close bond he has formed with the Persians.
His greatest frustration is that he is unable to converse freely with Iranian women aware that an important part of his picture of Iran is thus absent. Yet the mosaic of incidents, encounters, vistas, conversations, atmospheres and acutely observed sights, smells and moments creates a detailed impression of a country and society that will challenge most, if not all, preconceptions.
From the moment of his arrival in Tehran, the author is overwhelmed by hospitality. He immerses himself in male company in tea houses, conversing while smoking the qalyun or water pipe. Iranian men are only too willing to talk, especially about politics. Confusingly, he is told conflicting statements–that all Iranians love George Bush, that all Iranians hate George Bush; that life was infinitely better under the Shah, that the mullahs swept away the corruption of the Shah’s regime and made life better for all.
Once out of Tehran, he learns where the traditional forms of wrestling are practised. His path through the country is directed by a search for the variant disciplines and local techniques of wrestling and a need to visit sites and shrines associated with the great Persian Hafez, Ferdosi, Omar Khayyám, Attar, Shahriyar and many others. Everywhere his quest leads him, he discovers that poetry is loved and quoted by everyone from taxi-drivers to students.
His engagement with Iranian culture is he wrestles (sometimes reluctantly) when invited, samples illegal home-brew alcohol, attends a wedding, joins mourners, learns a new way to drink tea and attempts to observe the Ramazan fast, though not a Muslim himself. Though he has inevitable brushes with officialdom, he never feels in danger, even when he hears that a Canadian photo-journalist has apparently been beaten to death in a police cell during the author’s visit. The outraged and horrified reaction of those around him to this violent act tightens the already close bond he has formed with the Persians.
His greatest frustration is that he is unable to converse freely with Iranian women aware that an important part of his picture of Iran is thus absent. Yet the mosaic of incidents, encounters, vistas, conversations, atmospheres and acutely observed sights, smells and moments creates a detailed impression of a country and society that will challenge most, if not all, preconceptions.
304 pages, Hardcover
First published August 1, 2006
4 people are currently reading
62 people want to read
About the author
Marcello Di Cintio
14 books65 followersMarcello Di Cintio traveled to West Africa in 1997. He taught biology in a Ghanaian village for three months, then traveled through western and northern Africa for nine months more. Di Cintio’s time in Africa resulted in his first published stories and, eventually, his first book, Harmattan: Wind Across West Africa.
In 2003 and 2004, Di Cintio traveled to Iran to discover the connection between Persian poets and traditional wrestlers. Knopf Canada published the resulting book, Poets and Pahlevans: A Journey Into the Heart of Iran, in 2006.
In February 2008, Di Cintio flew into the Algerian desert to begin nearly five years of travel and research for Walls: Travels Along the Barricades chronicles Di Cintio's journeys along some of the world's most disputed and unfriendly edges. The book tries to answer the question: What does it mean to live in the shadow of a wall?
Di Cintio's 4th book, Pay No Heed to the Rockets: Palestine in the Present Tense, reveals life in contemporary Palestine as seen through the lens of the region's rich literary culture.
Driven: The Secret Lives of Taxi Drivers will appear in May 2021. This book will reveal the fascinating backstories of the men and women who drive us around.
In 2003 and 2004, Di Cintio traveled to Iran to discover the connection between Persian poets and traditional wrestlers. Knopf Canada published the resulting book, Poets and Pahlevans: A Journey Into the Heart of Iran, in 2006.
In February 2008, Di Cintio flew into the Algerian desert to begin nearly five years of travel and research for Walls: Travels Along the Barricades chronicles Di Cintio's journeys along some of the world's most disputed and unfriendly edges. The book tries to answer the question: What does it mean to live in the shadow of a wall?
Di Cintio's 4th book, Pay No Heed to the Rockets: Palestine in the Present Tense, reveals life in contemporary Palestine as seen through the lens of the region's rich literary culture.
Driven: The Secret Lives of Taxi Drivers will appear in May 2021. This book will reveal the fascinating backstories of the men and women who drive us around.
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Displaying 1 - 7 of 7 reviews
April 11, 2024
There is something about travel that breeds disclosure. Somehow, the world of strangers can be a more fitting storehouse of secrets than the ears of friends. p287
Marcello di Cintio is a sensitive and empathic traveler with a kickass edge. Led by his avid curiosity, intuition, and some serious preparation that included language lessons in Farsi, he follows a loose itinerary in search of active traces of the old wrestling champions of Persia, the pahlevans.
Modeled on the mythical warriors in Persian poetry they... were modest and dignified, with a strength of character as well as flesh....Far from the modern gymnasiums barefoot men still grapple in the dust and sand. Athletes wore sacred costumes, and music, prayers and poetry still stir them. p5
To be a pahlevan, you must show your skills in the zurkhane....but wrestling was not the most important thing. To be a pahlevan, you had to have a pure heart, pure words and pure actions. The pahlevans used to make food for the poor and help old women. They were honest and respectful. p39
Not exactly a picture one would expect of wild wrestlers.
The country may have become, for many, a place to flee, but what we call home never relinquished its claim. p244
Despite the masculine slant and my basic lack of interest in wrestling, I am charmed by poetry, so it was a delightful treat to tag along as di Cintio criss-crosses the desert to visit obscure villages rumored to still practice various forms of the ancient art. Truly impressive is the evidence of poetry as an integral part of the culture.
I thought again how people back home considered Iranians dangerous, and that I must be brave or foolish, to want to travel here. I would never convince them of Iranians warmth and welcome. It bewildered me at people were so comfortable being afraid. p256
This was 6/7 for me because of the lack of photos which I kept wishing for.
Marcello di Cintio is a sensitive and empathic traveler with a kickass edge. Led by his avid curiosity, intuition, and some serious preparation that included language lessons in Farsi, he follows a loose itinerary in search of active traces of the old wrestling champions of Persia, the pahlevans.
Modeled on the mythical warriors in Persian poetry they... were modest and dignified, with a strength of character as well as flesh....Far from the modern gymnasiums barefoot men still grapple in the dust and sand. Athletes wore sacred costumes, and music, prayers and poetry still stir them. p5
To be a pahlevan, you must show your skills in the zurkhane....but wrestling was not the most important thing. To be a pahlevan, you had to have a pure heart, pure words and pure actions. The pahlevans used to make food for the poor and help old women. They were honest and respectful. p39
Not exactly a picture one would expect of wild wrestlers.
The country may have become, for many, a place to flee, but what we call home never relinquished its claim. p244
Despite the masculine slant and my basic lack of interest in wrestling, I am charmed by poetry, so it was a delightful treat to tag along as di Cintio criss-crosses the desert to visit obscure villages rumored to still practice various forms of the ancient art. Truly impressive is the evidence of poetry as an integral part of the culture.
I thought again how people back home considered Iranians dangerous, and that I must be brave or foolish, to want to travel here. I would never convince them of Iranians warmth and welcome. It bewildered me at people were so comfortable being afraid. p256
This was 6/7 for me because of the lack of photos which I kept wishing for.
February 13, 2015
Marcello Di Cintio is an accomplished writer and I liked the way he painted word pictures of the places he went by observant use of details of his surroundings. On the other hand, as a tour of Iran and its love of poetry, I prefer Saved by Beauty by Roger Housden. Poets and Pahlevans combines the author's interest in poetry and wrestling. I found that wrestling is a bit arcane as a focal point for looking at Persia/Iran. Additionally, the focus on wrestling meant that some of the must stunning features of the country got short shrift--particularly the ruins of Persepolis. Reading Dicintio and Housden's versions about the most famous epic poem in Iran--the Shahnameh, you get the feeling you are reading about entirely different works of literature. DiCintio's version is all about battle and heros and, of course, wrestling. Housden gives a more balanced view of the historical significance. This is just one example of why, despite its excellent writing, I was not wowed by Poets and Pahlevans, while Saved by Beauty made me yearn to go to Iran.
August 7, 2012
I think this has become my favourite book of all time. Combines a few of my favourite subjects (Iranian culture, food, and wrestling) beautifully and the author's journey is incredibly inspiring. Equally inspiring is the Pahlevan's dedication to their sport & the religious aspect of it. I've read many books/accounts about North Americans travelling to Iran for various reasons and while excellent Iranian hospitality seems to be a common theme, I loved how this book really had a purpose and I found the subject thrilling. If I get the chance to go to Iran, I would definitely like to follow a similar course as Marcello Di Cintio and check out the various regional wrestling styles.
July 4, 2022
Entertaining and eye-opening! I laughed a bit at some parts, such as when the author almost got tricked into buying carpets, or when a young child tried to play a mischievous prank on him. Di Cintio shows respect for Iranian culture, both for its history and past achievements, as well as the current changes and challenges that the country goes through.
May 10, 2010
The writing is fresh and interesting. Iran and wrestling aren't two subjects I would normally search out, knowing very little about either, but Di Cintio makes them both accessible and interesting. What's refreshing is that the book doesn't sensationalize and homogenize Iran as Western depictions usually do. Di Cintio chooses to emphasize the individuals he meets and their unique personalities.
January 25, 2013
I just started re-reading this after it made it's rounds through friends and family that I had lent it to.
AMAZING!
This book completely turned my limited and very biased opinion of Iran on its head. Not only did it change my opinion on the subject matter it did it in a brilliantly written way that was entertaining, informative and eloquent.
This is a must read for everybody.
AMAZING!
This book completely turned my limited and very biased opinion of Iran on its head. Not only did it change my opinion on the subject matter it did it in a brilliantly written way that was entertaining, informative and eloquent.
This is a must read for everybody.
January 4, 2011
Rich, poetic images bring to life the depth and soul of the men of Iran.
Displaying 1 - 7 of 7 reviews