Lentil Underground: Renegade Farmers and the Future of Food in America

by Liz Carlisle

A protégé of Michael Pollan shares the story of a little known group of renegade farmers who defied corporate agribusiness by launching a unique sustainable farm-to-table food movement.

The story of the Lentil Underground begins on a 280-acre homestead rooted in America’s Great the Oien family farm. Forty years ago, corporate agribusiness told small farmers like the Oiens to “get big or get out.” But twenty-seven-year-old David Oien decided to take a stand, becoming the first in his conservative Montana county to plant a radically different organic lentils. Unlike the chemically dependent grains American farmers had been told to grow, lentils make their own fertilizer and tolerate variable climate conditions, so their farmers aren’t beholden to industrial methods. Today, Oien leads an underground network of organic farmers who work with heirloom seeds and biologically diverse farm systems. Under the brand Timeless Natural Food, their unique business- cum -movement has grown into a million dollar enterprise that sells to Whole Foods, hundreds of independent natural foods stores, and a host of renowned restaurants.

From the heart of Big Sky Country comes this inspiring story of a handful of colorful pioneers who have successfully bucked the chemically-based food chain and the entrenched power of agribusiness’s one percent, by stubbornly banding together. Journalist and native Montanan Liz Carlisle weaves an eye-opening and richly reported narrative that will be welcomed by everyone concerned with the future of American agriculture and natural food in an increasingly uncertain world.

Genres: Food, Nonfiction, Agriculture, Environment, Nature, Gardening, Audiobook

320 pages, Paperback

First published January 22, 2015

Reviews

[Nancy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Curious about Food? Read This Book!

In Lentil Underground Liz Carlisle pulls together many important concepts related to food in America, in particular the growing and distribution of food. The story begins at David Oien’s farm in Montana on the east side of the Rocky Mountains. When Oien decided to plant acres of organic lentils, this was a radical act. This book traces the ups and downs of organic lentil farming in Montana over the years. In time other farmers in Montana started planting acres of organic lentils.

Why grow lentils? The lentil is a member of the legume family. Lentils create their own fertilizer. Legumes are often planted as cover crops because of the nutrients they bring to the soil. They do not need to be fertilized with chemical brews. The species grown in Montana are more tolerant of wind, heat, and lack of rainfall than other commercial crops.

Why eat lentils? They are extremely nutritious. Lentils are an excellent source of dietary fiber, they are a complex carbohydrate, and are a low GI food with high protein. Lentils play a prominent role in Indian cuisine, often called dals.

I learned so much from this book. What it’s like for a small farmer to get an order from Trader Joe’s or Whole Foods. Just how hard it is to get financing for your organic farm. Why small organic farmers can’t get crop insurance. What the Farm Bill means to small farmers.

Carlisle’s writing style is engaging and descriptive. She does an excellent job weaving various farmer’s stories together. Given that much of American agricultural policy is designed for huge corporate farms, the activities of the “lentil underground” are revolutionary and encouraging.

This is an important book. Do read it.

* This review is based on receipt of an Advance Uncorrected Proof from the publisher via LibraryThing *

[Mary · Rating 5 out of 5]

LOVED this book!!! I kept wanting to phone or email the author and the people featured in this book, and ask them over to supper so we could further discuss the ideas Carlisle presented. We have so much to learn from the people associated with Timeless Seeds. I especially appreciated the farmers' plea for appropriately sized farm implements, and the accounts of successful multi cropping on the way to restoring and improving the health of farm soil.

[Kate · Rating 3 out of 5]

My favorite thing about this book was the care it took to avoid oversimplifications. It explained why "going organic" is an oversimplification; why "eating within 100 miles" is an oversimplification. A story of how farmers in Montana are working to rebuild their soil, it points out what are often contradictions as people seek to eat local and have a positive impact on the environment, and doesn't skimp to point out that the truly sustainable processes might take ten, twenty, thirty years. There is no quick fix, but this book offers hope for land management in an engaging, person-focused exploration of one movement that stubbornly took hold, and then held on.

[Navya Yagalla · Rating 4 out of 5]

maaaaaaaaaaaaaan i love lentils. the future of regenerative agriculture is so bright!

[Keith Akers · Rating 3 out of 5]

Want to know what it's really like to be an organic farmer? This is your book---especially if you want to know what it's like to grow lentils in Montana. The author weaves together a number of stories about organic farmers and how they came to want organic agriculture to succeed, even though there doesn't seem to be a lot of money in it. Along the way you find out both why it's so necessary and why it's so difficult. Also, I found out about "black medic," an otherwise worthless weed which, however, is actually good for the soil, so the organic farmers actually encouraged it to spread (it fixes nitrogen in the soil, like legumes).
Besides the fact that spraying your fields is easier than actually dealing with weeds and hostile insects in a more natural way, our system of subsidies essentially discourages organic agriculture.
Especially enlightening was her description of no-till agriculture. This technology, which avoids tillage, was formulated in order to avoid soil erosion; the number one time when soil can erode is when there is no vegetation to protect the land --- namely, after the soil has been tilled. But farmers who utilize it typically get GMO crops unaffected by the pesticide, and then blanket their fields with pesticide, which can't be good for the long-term health of the soil.

[Sari · Rating 5 out of 5]

At the age of 27, David Oien began the transformation of his family's farm in Montana from a conventional farm to an organic one, with the introduction of the planting of a crop of organic lentils, in order to return nutrients to the soil while growing a food crop that could be sold.

Liz Carlisle relates Oien's experiences as he connects with other Montana farmers and involves them in the growing of organic lentils and other crops. The farmers all contribute the the growth of Timeless Seeds and this book chronicles the varied experiences and challenges of many of these farmers as they adopt organic methods over many years.

As an organic home gardener for over 30 years, much of what Oien and his fellow farmers experienced was familiar to me (on a much smaller scale). And yet, I found this a fascinating book to read and highly recommend it. It made me stop and think about how a simple food like a lentil gets from the farm to the table.

[Ryan · Rating 3 out of 5]

My 4 favorite takeaways: 1) eating organic lentils shipped in from across the country is more environmentally friendly than local conventionally grown food. 2) we've been practicing agriculture for 12000 years, and only using heavy chemicals for 60 years. 3) legumes are green manure, they fix nitrogen into the soil. 4) lentils are resistant to drought.

[Malia · Rating 5 out of 5]

Way more interesting than I thought it would be! I was so engaged with the stories of these farmers, out there changing the world. :)

[Kate Lawrence · Rating 3 out of 5]

Although some sections were of only marginal interest to non-farmers, overall the book was a worthwhile read. I had no idea how difficult it was for farmers to transition to organic methods. The commitment and persistence of the farmers who began the process in northern Montana was stunning, especially because it had to be maintained over many years and through some major discouragements and financial losses. Living in Colorado, I'd be interested to read about how Western Slope fruit growing might compare. I was also impressed that these folks had to figure everything out as they went along; no precedents or wise elders existed to give guidance.
I hadn't previously understood fully how the government pays some farmers to grow nothing, nor why organic agriculture methods are more fuel-intensive and expensive than just spraying with toxic chemicals once a season.
Once again a primary virtue of book clubs comes into play--I would never have picked this up on my own, but only because one of my book clubs selected it.

[audrey · Rating 2 out of 5]

This reads like a long company prospectus for Montana-based Timeless Seeds. It is literally a blow-by-blow account of the founders havin' a dream, forming a company, the setbacks and challenges the company faced, yadda yadda yadda. I could work with that if there was also hey, here's the science behind why lentils rock (because they totally do) and here's an imagining of what this could look like outside Montana, if it was like, the future of food in America!

Not all dissertations need publishing, is what.

But I did come away with a marginally better understanding of no-till crop rotation.

[M.J. Groves · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love stories of grit and determination, especially when they're true. This is a wonderfully told account of a little farmer who could, and did, and still is doing, and the community of farmers spread across Montana who have joined in in his quest to grow plants in harmony with the land. A ray of hope for our future and our planet's. Plus, who knew you could make a lentil cookie?

[Avarla · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really want to buy a farm now and try some of the techniques described here. And I grew up on a farm and know how much never-ending work having a farm is actually. No romanticizing. That's how convincing this book is.
I was sometimes a bit lost with all the different players and who dropped out or in when and ehy and how they fit into the picture, but the overall narrative worked just fine.

[Sara Budarz · Rating 4 out of 5]

An interesting read that offered a history of Montana's farming community and a small group of farmers who decided to transition to organic farming. The book did a great job of showing just how difficult it was, and is, to go against conventional farmer practices and regulations. I also enjoyed learning more about Montana's culture and climate. I suspect that when I finally make it out to Montana, I'll be on the lookout for these organic farms. I also now think I should cook with lentils more often.

[Elma · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very grateful that Liz Carlisle is doing this research, building these relationships and writing about it. I recommended this to my farming family and my Montana cousins. Almost a case study on a specific lentil business, there are many lessons to be learned and practiced in here.

[Skylar Karzhevsky]

brb going to spend some time on a lentil farm

[Kate · Rating 4 out of 5]

A wake up call to the YOLO all about me lifestyle, presented in a measured cadence. Author even admits surprise along her advocacy journey. We are all in this together, can we act like it?

[Honor Dearlove · Rating 5 out of 5]

Addicted to sustainable agribusiness, lover of lentils. Was really scared when the blurb said that the author was a Michael pollen protege because I really hate that guy but this was great no notes.

[Austin Clowes · Rating 5 out of 5]

EXCEPTIONAL. Absolutely brilliant story of the real people working tirelessly to cultivate the land and change our food system. You want to change things? Get your hands dirty, lead by example, build a community, be patient, and acknowledge that the results you'll see aren't really yours. A spiritual experience reading about true land cultivation, and excellent writing to boot.

[Lynn · Rating 5 out of 5]

An amazing story of the beginning of organic farming practices in Montana!

[K Marie · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very interesting book about the history of organic farming in north central Montana. From about the 1970s to 2014. The primary thing I got from it was that you can plant more than one crop at a time in the same field. The undercrop being lentils that retain moisture and provide nitrogen to the soil so chemical fertilizers are not needed. A bit confusing at times trying to keep up with the many people the author interviewed. Very well read by Tavia Gilbert. She made what might have been hard to get through a compelling book to listen to.

[Susan · Rating 5 out of 5]

A new food system must be led by farmers, with hope from non-farmers. Montana has set the pace for the rest of us! Carlisle's first book. Could be in every high school in the U.S. Also, her second book, Grain by Grain might be even better.

[MaryJo · Rating 4 out of 5]

Four young Montana Farmers in the wheat growing high plains decide to do things differently. The first one to try lentils in the 1980s is David Oien, from Conrad, a couple of years older than me. He starts college at the University of Chicago, but then graduates from Missoula in Religious Studies having studied with Joseph Epes Brown, chronicler of Black Elk Speaks. Oien starts experimenting with a few acres on his family homestead. He struggles for decades figuring out what to grow and how to make a living at it. His wife, an accountant, helps pay the bills. The movement he starts draws in many different kinds of people some, but not all, outsiders like himself. Liz Carlisle is a Ph.D in geography at UC Berkeley, and this is her dissertation topic. She turns to this topic after a stint in Senator Jon Testor's office. She is a protege of Michael Pollan's at Berkeley, and he helped her turn her dissertation into this readable book. She does a good job of showing how the idealistic growers come up against all sorts of other forces: there is the climate, especially drought in this part of the US. Then, once you grow something, there is getting it to market. She also describes how even in this non-GMO wheat country, Monsanto is a force to be reckoned with. Even more so are USDA policies that, in helping farmers manage risk, have reduced farmers' willingness to experiment with new crops. Carlisle, a Montana native herself, does a good job of capturing the culture and landscape of this part of the US, where the climate is extreme and the distances are vast. Carlisle tells an inspiring story of people who are willing to take risks and try to things for the good of planet, and to cooperate with others in doing so.

[Christina · Rating 3 out of 5]

When I think of the organic food movement, I think of Vermont or California or Oregon or Wisconsin. Montana was not on my radar. This book changed that naive perception. Of course there are revolutionary thinkers everywhere, silly coastal citizen! (Why did I not realize that until now?) This book painstakingly documents the roots of the regenerative agriculture movement in Montana, throwing light onto an agricultural region that has not received enough attention for its efforts at transforming the land and soil back to one that relies on a healthy micro-biome and not on weed killers.

It is a step by step accounting, a look at the individual farmers and their families and their efforts to redefine smart agriculture, year by year. That is, farming that can feed a family and a nation AND turn over a healthy farm to the next generation.

In the process of reading this book, I also now understand how fellow farmer Jim Tester keeps his footing as a politician in the state. It is 100% more clear.

And everyone I know who has ever done business with Trader Joe's has a similar tale to the one told herein.

When the author of "The United States of Arugula" updates that tome to how we arrived at this food moment, I hope Montana will be included as a cradle of modern (ancient) farming techniques, especially for lentils. They certainly deserve the attention.

[Sarah Ensor · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an accessible case study of farmers in Montana, North West America who wanted to produce food while improving the soil and their whole farm so that native wildlife could thrive too. It shouldn’t have been a radical proposition, but the primary concern of industrial farming is to make profit, the food it produces is a secondary concern. Generally in industrial farming now, wheat and grain crops are raised as monocrops with added artificial fertilisers, which in America are often from genetically-modified (GM) seeds engineered to resist pesticides and weed killers - so called Round-up Ready crops. For decades the US Agricultural dept demanded that farmers “go big or get out” because larger farms were more profitable. More production meant crop prices fell but prices of fuel and inputs – the artificial fertilisers, insecticides and seeds rose. Once farmers were tied into GM seeds and all those inputs they were hostages to the profiteering of the huge farming corporations such as Cargill and Monsanto who set prices and made billions.

The farmers here got involved with organic and sustainable farming from the 1980’s for a variety of reasons. Some were close to bankruptcy from rising costs and drought, some had seen a farming parent’s health destroyed by pesticides and a few simply believed there were better ways to produce food and look after the land. The problems they faced were horrendous from too little capital and rain, unreliable buyers, overwork and the “great white combine” - hail that could wipe out a crop overnight.

These farmers’ alternative was to grow mixtures of ancient grains, lentils and other nitrogen-fixing legumes with varieties of “green manure”, crops designed to be ploughed back into the soil. They struggled on by creating a community of mutual support but the odds were still stacked against them. Until 2012 government crop insurance and subsidies were only provided to industrialised commodity farming despite its destruction of soil, ecosystems, pollinators, water systems and the people working the land.

There was government recognition that land was being destroyed by industrial farming but because the US Agricultural Dept (USDA) could not challenge the system as a whole, it looked for reactive solutions. Conveniently for the farm corporations, Round-up Ready crops were part of the USDA’s plan for “no-tillage” to avoid erosion which then came up with payments for growing cover crops to protect soil. Grain farmers joked about “farming the government” rather than the ground and it became too profitable to sell that land to young people who wanted to farm sustainably.

The 2012 Farm Bill finally provided a farm revenue insurance program for even organic crops but the insurance adjusters still couldn’t cope with more than one crop in a field, however beneficial those were to each other and in suppressing unwanted plants. It details other problems for these farmers such as a lack of affordable health insurance and how for some their plan is to “stay healthy”, as though they could make themselves not need cancer care or an emergency treatment. This is generally a huge problem across America and why Montana’s Senator Jon Tester voted for Obamacare. As he said to his constituents if he lost his job, he wouldn’t have health cover either.

Many of these farms have survived, grown and their produce is more widely available and it’s an encouraging read despite the anxiety-inducing problems farmers everywhere have. And in the ten years since it was published, organic farming and agro-ecology has become much more popular and valued. But the problem remains that the food they produce is more expensive and not accessible to most people in their communities and it’s going to need a huge societal-wide shift to change that.

[Dav · Rating 3 out of 5]

.


Lentil Underground: Renegade Farmers and the Future of Food in America (2015)

• by Liz Carlisle

OVERVIEW:
"The story of the Lentil Underground begins on a 280-acre homestead rooted in America’s Great Plains: the Oien family farm. Forty years ago, corporate agribusiness told small farmers like the Oiens to “get big or get out.” But twenty-seven-year-old David Oien decided to take a stand, becoming the first in his conservative Montana county to plant a radically different crop: organic lentils. Unlike the chemically dependent grains (wheat, barley, etc) American farmers had been told to grow, lentils make their own fertilizer and tolerate variable climate conditions, so their farmers aren’t beholden to industrial methods.

Today, Oien leads an underground network of organic farmers who work with heirloom seeds and biologically diverse farm systems. Under the brand Timeless Natural Food, their unique business-cum-movement has grown into a million dollar enterprise that sells to Whole Foods, hundreds of independent natural foods stores, and a host of renowned restaurants."

.

Dave Oien and few others worked together to change farming practices in Montana by introducing organic farming techniques to their skeptical farming community. In the mid-70s Dave convinced his dad to allow experimental changes to the family farm, beginning with solar power.

To get away from expensive chemical fertilizers and their harmful effects Oien experimented with legume crops that naturally pull nitrogen from the air and refurbish the soil. "Green manure" crops are plants thar are under sowed as fertilizer (alfalfa, black medic, etc) that help rebuild soil nutrients. They began Timeless Seeds about 1986 using the weed black medic to enhance soil naturally, it worked, but wasn't a money maker. Being a common weed it also had detractors, other farmers were not interested in cultivating a weed. What Dave needed was a legume (alfalfa, clover, peas, chickpeas, lentils, etc) that could "fix" nitrogen in the soil and be profitable as well.

The book covers the efforts of Dave and his organic farming cohorts through 2014, emphasizing various challenges and successes.

Some highlights include:
The Trader Joe's debacle; black Beluga lentils; intercropping and canopy crops; weed control without chemicals; getting government agency recognition for organic farming and the reforming of government policy; no-till farming by using herbicides. The Conservation Reserve Program (CRP), well-intentioned, but basically paid farmers not to farm and so many retired on the government handout.

At times the story gets deep in the weeds of government bureaucracy (which at first seemed opposed to organic farming practices), and details of soil composition.

In the 2014 epilogue the author says Dave's group produces about half of America's lentils. Lentils also remain an unknown too many consumers and Organics as too pricey.

Next time I'm at the store I may look up organic lentils. I believe the only lentils I've ever had were those in Progresso's lentil soup, which is too high in sodium (1,740mg per can).




..

[Greg · Rating 2 out of 5]

It was okay. I already knew quite a bit about the progressive farming trends in Montana and the Dakotas, so the information about the farming itself wasn't that revelatory to me. And the subtitle is a bit misleading; there's not much about "the Future of Food in America" in this book. It discusses a lot of the institutional obstacles to projects like the Timeless Seeds company and the political action that these small farmers are taking to force adjustments in the Farm Bill. That was interesting.

The writing is fine, but not unique or expressive. Read the book for information about the topic.

The book is guilty of simplifying a lot that's complex about soil biology and farming. Since it's the story of an organic foods movement and company, the nitty-gritty about soil microbiology is not exactly paramount. But I did wish that she spent a bit more time exploring the failure points that lentil farmers were experiencing and giving it a real critique.

In particular, her defense of "conservation tillage" depressed me a little bit, even though the presented alternative, "burndown" herbicide treatments, is probably worse overall. But they're both fundamentally destructive and unsustainable practices. Many "regenerative" farmers, who were already giving talks when the book was published, make a point to address the weed-invasion issues that "conservation tillage" is intended to correct without disturbing soil. One of the characters in the book who probably deserved more time--Jerry Habets--is on to the strategy, which the author treats as avant-garde. Basically, you never permit sunlight to strike the ground and you never turn over the soil, because there are old weed seeds buried there. Habets' strategy to grow 3 crops with different growth habits together as once is very similar, because buckwheat grows very quickly into a total groundcover and chickpeas and lentils have large enough seeds to compete with buckwheat even if they sprout in the buckwheat's shade.

This is maybe too nitpicky, but I think it goes to why I only want to give the two stars: the information was good enough, but it never felt like it was hinting at the broader universe of agricultural progress that really is taking hold in that area and across the world. For example, one of the mouthpiece characters in the book says he sometimes feels isolated because nobody else "within 200 miles" is farming lentils. But the author's next stop is 30 minutes down the road at another farm that's also growing lentils for Timeless Seeds. Did she drive 200 miles in 30 minutes? Or is this character exaggerating how rare progressive farming is? The author doesn't challenge the statement, and I feel that she should have, because it leaves the impression that growers associated with Timeless Seeds really are all alone in their quest for ecological agriculture in that area, and it's simply not true.

[Sarah · Rating 5 out of 5]

"Building your soil biologically is not a precise prescription for a particular crop, but a contribution to a larger ecology, subject to independent variables, geologic time, and global biogeochemical cycles. You will not capture all the value on this farm, in this year. You cannot individualize your return. To build biological fertility is to build community—to accept interdependence with other creatures and foster a common benefit. This way of life cultivates a new kind of awareness, a new empathy. You have to pay attention beyond this homestead. You have to pay attention beyond this season..." (p 250).

More than thirty years ago, a few Montana dreamers got together, thinking they might challenge "the system" by promoting the use of nitrogen-fixing plants in place of fertilizers. Today, they have built Timeless Seeds, a company that supports pulses on their journey from "field to fork"—from farming to processing to wholesale distribution to branded marketing.

This book carefully follows the farmers' journeys, illuminating both their idealism and the countless challenges (from health insurance to broken tractors) that stand in the way of success. Even today, only 20 farmers earn their livelihood with Timeless Seeds. Carlisle's narrative makes clear that the deck remains stacked against farmers who want to farm in an interdependent, ecologically sane manner. She tells the story clearly and fairly, without straying from the facts of the farmers' existence—in some ways an improvement on more popular food writers like Michael Pollan. I deeply enjoyed both the story she had to tell and her style in telling it. Highly recommended!

[Anna · Rating 5 out of 5]

This wonderful journey that Liz Carlisle brings her readers through is one of unwavering dedication and honoring of the self and of the land. Through the lens of Montana farmers, their families, and their stalwart community, we see the beginnings and continuation of a movement.

When farmers are stuck in the system of "get big or get out", filing for bankruptcy because they can no longer afford fuel nor fertilizer, and they see the degradation of the land that has fed this nation, their next best bet is to throw in on a risk and a dream - organic lentils.

What these traditional farmers understand is they must support their community, and not just their neighbors and fellow church-goers, but the community in their soil and around their lands. By paying attention to nature and working with it to nurture it, these people found a way to live off the land that wasn't destroying it. They found a healthier way to grow and feed people and to support their common dreams.

When people are growing food knowing they are building better soil and habits for future generations, that is true farming that will last generations, as long as someone is constantly fighting the battle for it. And Liz Carlisle shows us it's well worth it.

[Sandra · Rating 5 out of 5]

A small but powerful book that investigates a mighty movement amongst a few dedicated farmers in Montana who decided to shift from monoculture farming to an organic, soil enriching practice with no need for herbicides and pesticides. Liz Carlisle introduces the reader to the key farmers who decided to buck the big factory farm trend, a trend that was killing the needed microorganisms in the soil and leading to significant soil erosion, not to mention cancers in the farmers themselves. Working to find a green manure, a way to find a crop that would enhance the nitrogen in the soil, the small group discovered the humble lentil as well as ancient grains. The story investigates how the banking system and government policy and farmer insurance programs support the factory farm but not the smaller organic grower. Thus the group needed to work on all fronts - changing their farm practices, changing the money market, changing government inspection and promotion policy. Over many years, their methods demonstrate a healthier way forward for the farm. Soil and plants that can weather drought and foods that are healthier for the consumer.

[Lisa · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book was inspiring and informative, and effectively challenged my perception of rural agricultural communities. It elucidated the complexity of farming without chemicals and confirmed through anecdotal evidence that nitrogen-building through green manure increases farm resilience. Several facts stood out to me as surprising: The NRCS and University of Montana's Extension Service were not interested in chemical-free farming. This seems to have changed over the decades but it took effort from the farmers and a shift in consumer preferences as catalysts. The "White House" chapter was particularly helpful in broadening my understanding of misaligned policy incentives.

Overall, I enjoyed the book and it piqued my interest in what practices pioneering chemical-free farmers are adopting within my state.

Finally, cheers to the unsexy but delicious and nutrious lentils - it's time they get their due!