Finished. 10 star book, immensely readable. You don't have to like cookbooks to enjoy this one (but it would help)> This really so much more than just about cooking, it's about Solomonov's life and his family's - refugees from Eastern Europe of course - life in Israel and America and setting up a restaurant, sourcing unusual ingredients and what his own particular favourites are. The photographs of his family are as illuminating as those of the food. Well perhaps not quite so much, oh the food pics, oh I could just taste it.
When I lived in Jerusalem I used to eat in the Old City, in a little cafe run by an ebullient Palestinian called Uncle Moustache. You sat on low chairs around tiny low tables and he would serve the most sublime hummus you can imagine. It was spread on a generous side plate, marked in circles by a fork and at the centre a pile of foul mesdames (beans), the whole thing drizzled with olive oil, paprika and parsley. On the side was harif sauce (harissa, hot hot hot) and esh tanoor, not pita. Esh tanoor is made by putting a large circle of dough on a satin-covered cushion and then slapping into the inside, top, of a bread oven. I suppose the skill is in catching when it peels off, spotted brown and delicious.
Times have changed. Uncle Moustache is dead. The place is still very successful with several branches but his son, the owner doesn't have a moustache and doesn't welcome Jews. Lebanon tried a few years ago to sue Israel for selling foods like hummus as it's own, saying it was Lebanese, in the same way that feta is Greek. Imagine if someone told the city of Chicago they couldn't sell thick-crust pizzas as Chicago pizza pies? (I've had them in Italy). Lebanon forgets just how many Jews were exiled from Arab lands after millenia of living in them and they just brought their food with them. But as one of the defendents said, best we fight about food than anything else. Or perhaps it's just food is something else to fight about?
Friends of mine in Jerusalem say though that most restaurants are welcoming of anyone, it doesn't matter the ethnicity or religion of either the owner or the customer, but they would prefer paying in US dollars than the local currency!
One of the things I really like about Israeli, Palestinian and Lebanese food, all of which is very similar, one taking from the other and adding a little of this and a little of that, is the concentration on salads and vegetables. I really got into the book reading the chapters on Israeli hummus (which is much nicer than any other being made silky by a lot more tahini than is general) and tahini recipes. Salatim got me too = Palestinian salads to start a meal, a whole tableful of them. That said, Palestinian and Arab in general cakes and desserts are really something. My tastebuds have no politics at all!
I really enjoyed this book. The pictures are delicious. When a pic itself is delicious and you want to lift it up and lick it you know you've reached food porn heaven, a place of sublime taste and no calories. Oh joy.
Finished Feb 27, 2016.
Review Mar 25, 2016.