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Inside the Crocodile: The Papua New Guinea Journals
In the wilds of the most diverse nation on earth, while she copes with crocodiles under the blackboard and sorcery in the office, Trish Nicholson survives near-fatal malaria and mollifies irascible politicians and an ever-changing roster of bosses – realities of life for a development worker.
With a background in anthropology and a successful management career in Europe, five years on a development project in the remote West Sepik province of Papua New Guinea more than fulfils Trish Nicholson’s desire for a challenge. In extreme tropical conditions, with few only sometimes-passable roads, travel is by a balus – an alarmingly tiny plane, landing on airstrips cut with grass knives and squeezed between mountains. Students build their own schools, babies’ weights are recorded in rice bags and women walk for days, carrying their produce to market.
Physically tested by dense jungle and swaying vine bridges, Trish’s patience is stretched by nothing ever being what it seems and with ‘yes’ usually meaning ‘no’. Assignments in isolated outstations provide surreal moments, like the 80-year-old missionary in long friar’s robes revealing natty turquoise shorts as he tears away on an ancient motorbike. Adventures on nearby Pacific islands relieve the intensity of life in a close-knit community of nationals and a cosmopolitan mix of expat ‘characters’. Local women offer friendship, but their stories are often heart-breaking.
More chaos arrives with Frisbee, the dog she inherits when the project manager leaves, along with other project expats. Tensions increase between local factions supporting the project and those who feel threatened by it – and stuck in the middle is Trish. Her emotionally engaging memoir Inside the Crocodile is full of humour, adventure, iron determination and... Frisbee the dog. It is beautifully illustrated with colour photos of Trish’s time there.
With a background in anthropology and a successful management career in Europe, five years on a development project in the remote West Sepik province of Papua New Guinea more than fulfils Trish Nicholson’s desire for a challenge. In extreme tropical conditions, with few only sometimes-passable roads, travel is by a balus – an alarmingly tiny plane, landing on airstrips cut with grass knives and squeezed between mountains. Students build their own schools, babies’ weights are recorded in rice bags and women walk for days, carrying their produce to market.
Physically tested by dense jungle and swaying vine bridges, Trish’s patience is stretched by nothing ever being what it seems and with ‘yes’ usually meaning ‘no’. Assignments in isolated outstations provide surreal moments, like the 80-year-old missionary in long friar’s robes revealing natty turquoise shorts as he tears away on an ancient motorbike. Adventures on nearby Pacific islands relieve the intensity of life in a close-knit community of nationals and a cosmopolitan mix of expat ‘characters’. Local women offer friendship, but their stories are often heart-breaking.
More chaos arrives with Frisbee, the dog she inherits when the project manager leaves, along with other project expats. Tensions increase between local factions supporting the project and those who feel threatened by it – and stuck in the middle is Trish. Her emotionally engaging memoir Inside the Crocodile is full of humour, adventure, iron determination and... Frisbee the dog. It is beautifully illustrated with colour photos of Trish’s time there.
289 pages, Kindle Edition
First published June 25, 2015
4 people are currently reading
26 people want to read
About the author
Trish Nicholson
15 books5 followersTrish Nicholson is a social anthropologist, storyteller, author of narrative non-fiction, and a former columnist and features writer whose work has been published in national media in the UK and Australia. She has travelled extensively in the Asia-Pacific, Central Asia, Africa, North and South America, Eastern and Western Europe, India, and Australia, and now lives in New Zealand. You can read more of her work on her website: www.trishnicholsonswordsinthetreehous... (where there really is a tree-house) and follow her on Twitter @TrishaNicholson
On my website you will find posts about travel worldwide, musings and tips about writing non-fiction and short stories, and a photo-essays of people, places and wildlife. I hope youenjoy your browsing.
On my website you will find posts about travel worldwide, musings and tips about writing non-fiction and short stories, and a photo-essays of people, places and wildlife. I hope youenjoy your browsing.
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Displaying 1 - 5 of 5 reviews
September 11, 2015
Before I read Trish Nicholson’s travel memoir about her time as a development worker in Papua New Guinea, I have to admit that I knew very little about the country and its people. But the idea of an experienced social anthropologist and business professional taking on a five-year development project in this remote area of the world intrigued me on several levels. How does one leave the security of a well-established career and travel to the far reaches of the earth, into unknown and underdeveloped territory, to put skills to the test? And how does one survive in another culture without the amenities and social networks that seem to be necessary to not only survive but thrive and grow.
The author takes us unflinchingly into her experience—not sparing any details about the rugged terrain, fraying vine bridges across rivers; tiny, rickety, old planes that land in between mountains and carry her even deeper into uncivilized places ;and corrupt local politicians who thwart her efforts to bring organization and progress to the area. The reader is immersed in a culture where students build their own schools, babies’ weights are recorded in rice bags and women walk for days to sell their produce at markets.
Against the backdrop of this cultural immersion, is a personal story of close friendships forged by a common purpose to bring change and improvement to this underdeveloped area. One of my favorite characters is Frisbee, the dog who steals Trish’s heart and provides a source of comfort to her. We feel her pain when due to her required travels she is forced to leave Frisbee with a friend.
Trish captures the human experience with humor and passion. Her writing is descriptive and engaging. I was right there with her as she faced one obstacles after another—bouts with malaria, the extreme weather conditions, irascible politicians, saying goodbye to close friends, working with the locals to build a school. Interspersed throughout the text are quotes from the locals in their Pidgin language, which brings the reader even closer to the experience. A glossary is provided for quick and by the time I was halfway through the story, the foreign words were flowing.
The author answers the questions I posed in the beginning. Through this story, I learned that Papua New Guinea is considered to be “the most culturally diverse nation on earth”. Her vast experience, combined with her resilience and amazing spirit of adventure helped her to not only reach her goals to bring change and progress to a remote region of the world but also helped her to grow personally. It is in this transformation that this story which stemmed from her daily journaling, is such a worthwhile and inspirational read. She delivers on all counts—cultural enlightenment, personal growth and adventure. I highly recommend this fascinating travel memoir to anyone who enjoys reading about another culture and wants to enter into an adventuresome experience.
The author takes us unflinchingly into her experience—not sparing any details about the rugged terrain, fraying vine bridges across rivers; tiny, rickety, old planes that land in between mountains and carry her even deeper into uncivilized places ;and corrupt local politicians who thwart her efforts to bring organization and progress to the area. The reader is immersed in a culture where students build their own schools, babies’ weights are recorded in rice bags and women walk for days to sell their produce at markets.
Against the backdrop of this cultural immersion, is a personal story of close friendships forged by a common purpose to bring change and improvement to this underdeveloped area. One of my favorite characters is Frisbee, the dog who steals Trish’s heart and provides a source of comfort to her. We feel her pain when due to her required travels she is forced to leave Frisbee with a friend.
Trish captures the human experience with humor and passion. Her writing is descriptive and engaging. I was right there with her as she faced one obstacles after another—bouts with malaria, the extreme weather conditions, irascible politicians, saying goodbye to close friends, working with the locals to build a school. Interspersed throughout the text are quotes from the locals in their Pidgin language, which brings the reader even closer to the experience. A glossary is provided for quick and by the time I was halfway through the story, the foreign words were flowing.
The author answers the questions I posed in the beginning. Through this story, I learned that Papua New Guinea is considered to be “the most culturally diverse nation on earth”. Her vast experience, combined with her resilience and amazing spirit of adventure helped her to not only reach her goals to bring change and progress to a remote region of the world but also helped her to grow personally. It is in this transformation that this story which stemmed from her daily journaling, is such a worthwhile and inspirational read. She delivers on all counts—cultural enlightenment, personal growth and adventure. I highly recommend this fascinating travel memoir to anyone who enjoys reading about another culture and wants to enter into an adventuresome experience.
September 14, 2015
Genre: Travel/Memoir
Trish Nicholson is, amongst other things, a social anthropologist and she has travelled extensively in this capacity. She is also a very good travel writer.
Inside the Crocodile is based on the diaries she kept during the five years she spent as a development worker as part of a World Bank funded project in Papua New Guinea. She arrived there from Scotland in the late 1980s and stayed until the early 1990s. It's a first-class example of a travel-memoir and it's an enthralling read.
Trish tells of how, in order to do her job, she had to negotiate a very tricky path within a complex system of local politics and bureaucracy and an even more complex grace-and-favour social system. She warmly describes her remarkable colleagues and how she formed strong working relationships and friendships. She paints a vivid picture of this (to me at any rate) unfamiliar part of the world. The reader can visualise the dramatic scenery, feel the humid heat and taste the exotic food.
There are accounts of many dangerous moments - in tiny aeroplanes flying low over high peaks, of jungle hikes involving rickety bridges over deep ravines, and of her own brush with death due to malaria.
There's a real TV documentary feel to this book - so clear is the writing. You feel as you read that you're experiencing life in this jungle landscape, including the appearance of the eponymous crocodile.
This is a superb account of a brave and resourceful woman's time in one of the world's most remote and challenging locations.
Type of read: Escapist, educational and entertaining. Relax on a comfy armchair on a cold rainy day, mug of tea and some nice biscuits to hand, and be transported away from ordinary life to somewhere unfamiliar and compelling.
Inside the Crocodile is published by Matador and is available as a paperback and as an ebook.
Trish Nicholson is, amongst other things, a social anthropologist and she has travelled extensively in this capacity. She is also a very good travel writer.
Inside the Crocodile is based on the diaries she kept during the five years she spent as a development worker as part of a World Bank funded project in Papua New Guinea. She arrived there from Scotland in the late 1980s and stayed until the early 1990s. It's a first-class example of a travel-memoir and it's an enthralling read.
Trish tells of how, in order to do her job, she had to negotiate a very tricky path within a complex system of local politics and bureaucracy and an even more complex grace-and-favour social system. She warmly describes her remarkable colleagues and how she formed strong working relationships and friendships. She paints a vivid picture of this (to me at any rate) unfamiliar part of the world. The reader can visualise the dramatic scenery, feel the humid heat and taste the exotic food.
There are accounts of many dangerous moments - in tiny aeroplanes flying low over high peaks, of jungle hikes involving rickety bridges over deep ravines, and of her own brush with death due to malaria.
There's a real TV documentary feel to this book - so clear is the writing. You feel as you read that you're experiencing life in this jungle landscape, including the appearance of the eponymous crocodile.
This is a superb account of a brave and resourceful woman's time in one of the world's most remote and challenging locations.
Type of read: Escapist, educational and entertaining. Relax on a comfy armchair on a cold rainy day, mug of tea and some nice biscuits to hand, and be transported away from ordinary life to somewhere unfamiliar and compelling.
Inside the Crocodile is published by Matador and is available as a paperback and as an ebook.
March 9, 2022
A remarkable travel memoir.
Accepting a position as a staff development officer in a remote area of West Sepik in Papua New Guinea brought Trish Nicholson many challenges; however, she faced each one head-on, resulting in a very diverse five years in this incredible country.
Interspersed with snippets of the local dialect, the author tells of her adventures into the rugged terrain, some dodgy plane rides, visits to outlying islands, the locals, work colleagues and the bureaucrats.
I have no hesitation in recommending this well written memoir to those who enjoy travel adventures with a difference; it is a remarkable read.
Accepting a position as a staff development officer in a remote area of West Sepik in Papua New Guinea brought Trish Nicholson many challenges; however, she faced each one head-on, resulting in a very diverse five years in this incredible country.
Interspersed with snippets of the local dialect, the author tells of her adventures into the rugged terrain, some dodgy plane rides, visits to outlying islands, the locals, work colleagues and the bureaucrats.
I have no hesitation in recommending this well written memoir to those who enjoy travel adventures with a difference; it is a remarkable read.
April 25, 2020
Fantastic book. Highly entertaining. Interesting story. Well written. Recommended.
July 5, 2016
This book was entered and was a Gold Medal Winner in The Wishing Shelf Book Awards. This is what our readers thought:
Title: Inside the Crocodile: The Papua New Guinea Journals
Author: Trish Nicholson
Star Rating: 5 Stars
Number of Readers: 27
Stats
Editing: 10/10
Style: 10/10
Content: 10/10
Cover: 9/10
Of the 27 readers:
27 would read another book by this author.
25 thought the cover was excellent.
27 felt the pacing was excellent.
16 felt the best part of the book was the writing style.
11 felt the content was the best part of the book, in particular, the vast array of problems the author faced and how she resolved them.
Readers’ Comments
‘A thoroughly fascinating story. I have never visited that part of the world but now I’d love to. The writing style was perfect for a book of this nature: light with an excellent balance of pace and descriptive prose.’ Female reader, aged 45
‘By far the best book in this year’s Wishing Shelf Book Awards. An intriguing look at life in Papua New Guinea from the POV of a development worker. The author’s love of the cultures and the characters she meets shows in her writing. I’d recommend this to anybody interested in travel and understanding life in a different and often difficult country.’ Male reader. Aged 38
‘The book starts so well with the crocodile and talks of sorcery. And, from there on, it keeps getting better. I was sad at the end when she left but the last line of the book made me smile. A lovely read, warm and packed full of cultural richness.’ Female reader, aged 57
‘A fascinating, richly-composed look at life in Papua New Guinea. A Gold Medal Winner and highly recommended.’ The Wishing Shelf Book Awards
Title: Inside the Crocodile: The Papua New Guinea Journals
Author: Trish Nicholson
Star Rating: 5 Stars
Number of Readers: 27
Stats
Editing: 10/10
Style: 10/10
Content: 10/10
Cover: 9/10
Of the 27 readers:
27 would read another book by this author.
25 thought the cover was excellent.
27 felt the pacing was excellent.
16 felt the best part of the book was the writing style.
11 felt the content was the best part of the book, in particular, the vast array of problems the author faced and how she resolved them.
Readers’ Comments
‘A thoroughly fascinating story. I have never visited that part of the world but now I’d love to. The writing style was perfect for a book of this nature: light with an excellent balance of pace and descriptive prose.’ Female reader, aged 45
‘By far the best book in this year’s Wishing Shelf Book Awards. An intriguing look at life in Papua New Guinea from the POV of a development worker. The author’s love of the cultures and the characters she meets shows in her writing. I’d recommend this to anybody interested in travel and understanding life in a different and often difficult country.’ Male reader. Aged 38
‘The book starts so well with the crocodile and talks of sorcery. And, from there on, it keeps getting better. I was sad at the end when she left but the last line of the book made me smile. A lovely read, warm and packed full of cultural richness.’ Female reader, aged 57
‘A fascinating, richly-composed look at life in Papua New Guinea. A Gold Medal Winner and highly recommended.’ The Wishing Shelf Book Awards
Displaying 1 - 5 of 5 reviews