Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite

by Glen Denny

Half a century ago a rag-tag group of innovators was building a foundation for modern American rock climbing from a makeshift home base in Yosemite. Photographer Glen Denny was a key figure in this golden age of climbing, capturing pioneering feats on camera while tackling challenging ascents himself.

In entertaining short pieces enlivened by his iconic black-and-white images of Yosemite's big wall legends, Denny reveals a young man's coming of age and provides a vivid look at Yosemite’s early climbing culture. He relates such precarious achievements as hauling water in glass gallon jugs up the east face of Washington Column, nailing the 750-foot Rostrum in a punishing heat wave, and dangling overnight on El Capitan’s Dihedral Wall in a lightning storm. Each true tale captures the spirit of historic Camp 4, where Denny and others plan the next big climb while living on the cheap and dodging park rangers.

Genres: Climbing, Nonfiction, Sports

240 pages, Paperback

First published May 10, 2016

Reviews

[pj · Rating 4 out of 5]

i said “megan, what is a good book about yosemite climbing?” and she said “valley walls”

it was a good book about yosemite climbing

[Steven Follum · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have one of Glen Denny's Yosemite in the Sixties prints hanging over my desk. I find myself staring at regularly. I notice clients looking at it as well, not quite sure what to make of the large picture of what probably appears to be a homeless man sitting on a rock. It has always amazed me the group of people that have come out of Yosemite in the 60's to become such important figures in the outdoor and conscious capitalism movements, most notably Royal Robbins and Yvon Chouinard. Two perfect examples of what following your dreams and passions can lead too. While both are covered only briefly in this book, the story of how these climbers (dirtbags) lived and climbed is extraordinary.

[Lyndsay · Rating 2 out of 5]

I read this book for a book club with friends. Admittedly, I am not a climber, so a lot of the nuances of this book were lost on me. Overall the stories were fun and (mostly) lighthearted, I just wish there was more reflection on the experiences. An example, when he was on the crew searching to recover the dead boy's body. The story just ended. There was no debriefing about emotion, the emotion of the camp, no reflection on his own close calls. Throughout the book I just kept wanting more, and never got it.

[Jacob · Rating 5 out of 5]

I don't think I could have picked a better time in my climbing career to read this - I've been climbing in and around yosemite for the past year or so, ticking off as many easy/moderate classics as our little group can, and catching the bug - planning weekend after weekend of climbing somewhere, figuring out with friends what routes we're going to do and if we can even do them, how we're getting into the valley, reading blogs and forums, snagging sales on gear, and already reminiscing on the fantastic days we've spent sitting up high on granite looking over trees, rivers, and people.

Denny's account of the early 1960's climbing with the legends is exceptionally immersive. He recounts stories of grueling hot days, grueling cold days, lazy days in the lodge, dirty days at camp, comradery and competition, and the pure elation of our sport of vertical exploration that feels both freeing and connects us to the rock and terrain, in a way that we convince ourselves tourists will never understand. And similar memories are still being made, even by newbie weekend warriors like me 60years later.

The stories are short (maybe too short), but it's well written, the pictures are fantastic, and Denny comes off as a relatable and excitable wallflower. Knowing the climbing terms and many of the climbs he references definitely helped me enjoy this more. But I could see how someone not in the middle of it could also really enjoy these stories too. Bonus points if you read it in the Valley!

[Christina · Rating 5 out of 5]

Such a good read! I spent the last week in Yosemite and wanted to read about it. I’m happy I chose this book— it’s a great story about the golden age of climbing in Yosemite — in the late 50s/early 60s. The stories about these important climbers were beautifully written in short chapters that ranged all different climbs and adventures, describing first ascents, lightening storms and other bad weather on the climbs and even deaths. I was hooked from the first chapter.

One thing— I may be the only person living under a rock and didn’t realize that Yosemite is the Mecca of Climbing. I also would not have half appreciated this book or understood the terms and locations without physically being in Yosemite and having a climber point out the locations to me, nor without watching free and aid climbs and having him explain the climbing terms to me before reading this book. The glossary isn’t enough.

A cool follow up to this book is watching Valley Uprising to get to know the climbers better.

[Sara · Rating 5 out of 5]

Dad’s pick for family book. Great book. Loved his stories about climbing in Yosemite back In the 60’s. I felt like I was right there with him in his experiences. I’d love to go to Yosemite to experience these amazing walls. It’s hard to imagine what these people did in climbing, in the 60’s, without the technology we use today. Or even harnesses.

[Jean Dupenloup · Rating 3 out of 5]

There are certainly better Yosemite memoirs than Glen Denny’s, but his book is still an intriguing testament to the Camp 4 epoch.

Mr. Denny recounts the dirtbag life in the golden days of Yosemite big wall climbing, with all its glorious counterculture.

Some of his ascents were landmark, and he’s certainly got some decent yards to spin. Not a bad read at all.

[Cody Kaemmerlen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Equal parts memoir, history and ode to climbing.

Short, concise glimpses of the earliest days of Yosemite climbing.

One thing I expected (dreaded) was any sense of “simpler times” or “better days” or “before it got too popular”. None of that exists here.

Just a very quick and highly enjoyable read for those of us who hold climbing so near and dear to our hearts.

[Nicole Lemon · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wow!! Climbing in Yosemite was/is not for the faint of heart. I'll keep my two feet on the ground and pray for my crazy husband and son who climb.
Thank goodness for climbing gear that is safe.
This book details the early years of climbing in Yosime and the adventures of Glen Denny and his friends.
"Send it!"
.

[Leland William · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a great companion piece to Roper’s Camp 4. While Roper sticks to history and lends a few personal anecdotes, Denny’s book is pure experience. What did it feel like to be on those pioneering climbs, how did it feel to live in camp 4 in the golden age. Another solid book about climbing. Also Denny’s photos are pure gold.

[Alec Manougian · Rating 4 out of 5]

Worth the read. Knocked off a start for some dull sections. The final chapter is probably the best, as it is a culmination of the author's stories as leading up to the 3rd ascent of the Nose on El Cap.

[Ed · Rating 5 out of 5]

really good book for aspiring or accomplished Big Wall climbers. Or even couch potatoes

[Luke Bausler · Rating 5 out of 5]

Phenomenal book

[Nick Stevens · Rating 5 out of 5]

Outstanding. I couldn’t put this book down. Fantastic memoir of climbing in Yosemite in the 60s. Beautiful.

[Jason Stockwell · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was an incredible memoir of climbing in the valley. These were some crazy dudes and glen denny does an amazing job of immortalizing these times.

[Sunny Devo · Rating 5 out of 5]

incredible lens peering vicariously into the golden years of climbing, when climbing was for the freedom of doing just that: climbing. stories to stoke the adventure flames within, i recommend this to anyone.