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336 pages, Paperback
First published May 1, 1969
I have a tendency to be like Charles Bradlaugh, who was a Suffolk man. I am not an atheist but I have strong views about politics and the Church. Bradlaugh wasn't against Church, he was against the set-up. I'm against the set-up. But I think it was an extremely good thing that religion should be accepted as the saviour pf civilisation. So I think it right that it should be carried on, If you forsake religion, it's back to the savages. This is what is happening now.
The village girls like to get married very young but the boys don't. Many of the boys don't want to marry until they are about thirty, although plenty of them have to long before then. I have a friend whose girl made all the running before they were wed, now he has to beg for it.
There was more incest in the past and it was always fathers and daughters, never brothers and sisters. It happened when mother had too many children, or when mother was ill, or when mother was dead. And very often it didn't matter a bit. The daughter usually proved to be very fond of the father and there would be no sign of upset in the family. No, I think it was quite an understood thing that a daughter would take on the father when the mother was ill or dead.
It was March 4th, 1914. We joined the army a few hours after we had made our decision. We walked to Ipswich and got the train to Colchester. We were soaked to the skin but very happy. At the barracks we kissed the Bible and were given a shilling. The recruiting agent said, ‘You can’t go home in all this rain, you can sleep in a bed in the recruiting room’. In the morning he said ‘Go home and say good-bye, and here’s ten shillings each for your food and fares. Report back on Monday.’
In my four months’ training with the regiment I put on nearly a stone in weight and got a bit taller. They said it was the food but was really because for the first time in my life there has been no strenuous work. I want to say this simply as a fact, that village people in Suffolk in my day were worked to death. It literally happened. It is not a figure of speech. I was worked mercilessly. I am not complaining about it. It is what happened to me.
We were all delighted when the war broke out on August 14th… we were bursting with happiness. We were all damned glad to have got off the farms.
I never did any playing in all my life. There was nothing in my childhood, only work. I never had pleasure. One day a year I went to Felixstowe along with the chapel women and children, and that was my pleasure. But I have forgotten one thing – the singing. There was such a lot of singing in the villages then, and this was my pleasure, too. Boys sang in the fields, and at night we all met at the Forge and sang. The chapels were full of singing. When the first war came, it was singing, singing all the time. So I lie; I have had pleasure. I have had singing.
I came to them when they had, for several generations, been literally worked to death. There was scarcely a moment they could call their own, a time when they could stop toiling and ask, ‘Who am I?’ Yet so were the miners in my father’s parish – I mean it was even worse for them – yet nothing made them indifferent to color and beauty. If you can measure the spiritual nature of men by these things, then the nature of the people of Akenfield strikes me as being uncultivated and neglected.
I don’t want to see the old days back. Every bad thing gets to sound pleasant enough when time has passed. But it wasn’t pleasant then, and that’s a fact.
I can remember being really hungry – there are not many people who can truthfully say that now, are there? It was during the First World War when folk who had the money had the rations. Rations! That was a joke. We never saw sugar at all. We use to have golden syrup in our tea and if we couldn’t get that we had black treacle.
we took our poorness naturally. We knew within a little what we were going to get and that there would never be any more. So that was that. My father was one of eight and I’ve often heard him say that he didn’t know what it was like to have a new pair of shoes on his feet.
I knew their homes and in most cases I had delivered them. There were so many dirty children in those days, dirty hair, dirty feet, impetigo. It was thought a disgrace to have a dirty head, but lots did. There's nothing like that now. Children have never been as beautiful as they are now.
The ringing men must reach stages of exultation which are on par with those of cannabis, but if this is so there is no outward evidence to prove it. The less extreme degrees of pleasure derived from the art of campanology are similar to those derived from chess.
Ringing is an addiction from which few escape once they have ventured into the small fortress-like room beneath the bells, and the sally – the soft tufted grip at the end of the rope – leaps to life against the palm of the hand like an animal. There then begins a lifetime of concentration, of perfect striking and a coordination of body and mind so destructive to anxieties and worries of all kinds that one wonders why campanology isn’t high on the therapy list
The bells tolled for death when I was a boy. It was three times three for a man and three times two for a woman. People would look up and say, ‘Hullo, a death?’ Then the years of the dead person’s age would be tolled and if the bell went on speaking, ‘seventy-one, seventy-two…’ people would say, ‘Well, they had a good innings!’ But when the bell stopped at eighteen or twenty a hush would come over the fields. People were supposed to pray for the departed soul, and some of them may have done. This practice was continued up until the Second World War, when all the bells of England were silenced. It was never revived.
It is wonderful to realize that a beautiful plant is yours. Suffolk people love you to go and boost their gardens. If people want to be polite, the first thing they say is, ‘What a beautiful garden’. If a man is clipping a hedge, you must compliment him on it. Hedges have to be praised. This is where the old employers went wrong. They didn’t understand about praise. If there had been more praise for gardeners there would still be plenty of good gardeners around. An industrial worker would sooner have a 5 pound note but a countryman must have praise.
The village gardens aren't as good as they used to be for the very simple reason that a man can go to work for an hour or two extra and earn enough money to buy vegetables for a week, whereas, if he grows them, he's got to dig, buy seed, sow, hoe, water, worry, take up and I don't know what - and all for something he can buy for a few bob. There's not time, anyway, because probably he is out to work, fruit-picking and that sort of thing, and so it is easier for them both to have a packet of frozen peas handy. Life now is much less elaborate and, consequently, much less interesting. As a qualified judge of flowers, I would like to say that Akenfield is more horticultural-minded than it used to be, but it is not, and this is the truth. Not the ordinary village worker. But then you have only to go the next step higher, the salesman in his new bungalow, and it's a very different story. Their gardening is a form of ownership and ‘getting on’. They garden neatly. They don't know the difference between tidiness and neatness. They buy expensive ugly things. Their gardens look like shopping. These are the new gardeners who are making the nurserymen rich. It is not the young farm-worker – I wish it was.
So many smiths are just copying the old designs. And making a poor job of it. It is abusing the old tradesmen. I believe that we should work as they worked; this isn’t copying, it is getting back into their ways, into their skins.
We use Hazel rods which you cut in the woods during the winter. We use hazel because it is the best splitting wood there is and the best to get a point on. Then comes the pattern. We all have our own pattern; it is our signature, you might say. A thatcher can look at a roof and tell you who thatched it by the pattern.
There used to be special patterns and decorations for the stacks years ago, particularly for the round stacks. There were three kinds of stacks, the round, the boat shaped and the gable-end, and the stack yard was a nice place, I can tell you – very handsome. They were a way of decorating the village when the harvest was over and great pride went into putting them up. They were set where they could be seen from the farmhouse and the road, so that they could be looked at and enjoyed.
I’ve got a twenty-two-footer caravan now and the farmer lets me live in it behind his barn. It has a coke stove and a calor gas cooker and is very pleasant. It has a bedroom, a lounge and a little kitchen. It is easy to keep clean, easy to heat. I found the idea of going into a modem house very boring. Modern houses are sterile. The caravan needs ingenuity all the time. I can never understand people who pay all this money for convenience. Convenience has become a drug to them. Easy this, easy that. If I could afford it I would buy a boat and live on that. It would need even more ingenuity to do this. I was terribly lonely at the start but I told myself, 'This is good for you. It won't last forever, so bear it. It will be good in the end.' And it is turning out this way. I mean that, without being smug, I now have the existence which I designed for myself years ago. Fair enough. Essentially, it has been marvelous.
One of the extraordinary things about this latest generation of villagers is that it is too comfortable! They need (provocation, stress. They are sturdy young well-fed animals being trained as farm-machine operators who don't feel strongly about anything. They are content for the world to stay as it is, poverty, pain and everything, as long as they are comfortable.
The biggest change which I have seen in Akenfield is the growth of discontent. Greed. Nobody ever said, ‘Bugger you, Jack, my head is out!’ when I was a boy. When you wanted help it was given.
People are amazed when they learn of the amount of suicide there is. Very often, when I am addressing a meeting, I will say, "Since you have had your tea and have come here to the village hall to listen to me, somebody has killed herself? -and it shakes them. Fourteen village men and six village women committed suicide in East Suffolk this last year [1966] - as against the nine men and five women who took their own lives in Ipswich during the same period. So villages aren't always the cosy, friendly places they are supposed to be, are they? People can be as lonely there as anywhere else.
The truth is that there is a void where the old village culture existed. Ideas, beliefs and civilizing factors belonging to their grandfathers are not just being abandoned by the young countrymen, they are scarcely known. A motor-bike or universal pop might appear to be a reasonable exchange - but not after you have begun to think.
I keep hens in batteries, which is the same kind of thing and which people say is very cruel. But as I have worked with hens and have a certain knowledge of them, I don't really think it makes any difference to them. Pigs are different. A pig is more of an individual, more human and in many ways a strangely likeable character. Pigs have strong personalities and it is easy to get fond of them. I am always getting fond of pigs and I feel a bit conscious- stricken that one day I must put them inside for their whole lives. Yet, if you start to work out how much a pig walks about and how much time he just spends lying down and sleeping, you wonder if he is going to be worse off if he is confined all the time. Pigs are very clean animals but, like us, they all are different; some will need cleaning out after half a day and some will be neat and tidy after three days. Some pigs are always in a mess and won't care. Pigs are very interesting people and some of them can leave quite a gap when they go off to the bacon factory.
There are an awful lot of petitions going about concerned with cruelty to animals. They are usually got up by people who keep pets confined in flats and I am not sure that such folk are entitled to hold these opinions. They cause a lot of trouble to us. But I suppose that one must be democratic and allow them to have their opinions. I do have moral qualms but I also know that everything has got to go this way. Dreams of the past, like my dreams of cutting the corn in the sun, have got to be abandoned. Farming is not this lackadaisical business of yesterday. Yet I think of my grandfather and his father, and I think that although they had small profits for so much hard work, they had a carefree life.
All our factory animals have first-class veterinary treatment - that is something they didn't have in the past - and their food is far, far superior to what animals once had to eat on a farm. Of course, you've got all the additives to make them get fat quickly. But then we have all kinds of additives in our food. Take bread, it isn't natural bread, there are all sorts of things in it. It is bought all cut-up in cellophane and is horrible, but we eat it. We eat it because it is the food of our time.