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416 pages, Hardcover
First published May 3, 2016
The merits of the microwave should not be overlooked. You could argue that it helped free many American women to work outside the home, because family meals could be prepared more quickly. Plus, microwaveable meals are affordable and certainly more satisfying than a hodgepodge of cold snacks and bars, and they (usually) contain chunks of food you can recognize.
By 1993 more than 75% of American workplaces had a microwave.
Which brings me to Lean Cuisine, Stouffers, and Amy’s Kitchen – the sad poster children of sad desk lunch. Frozen entrees are one of the runaway success stories over the last generation. It’s kind of the golden age of quick meals, says Richard Wilk, professor of anthropology at Indiana University, where he directs the food studies program and co-directs the University’s food institute. He says, “My wife has in her lab a refrigerator and a microwave, and she just puts something in the microwave for lunch every day. It used to be that if you did eat lunch at work, it was bound to be a sandwich,” he says, “but the sandwich has been replaced. Nowadays, the options are endless.” Wilk argues that the food industry has provided us with a greater variety of individual-sized premade lunch options than ever before. Lean Cuisine, for its part, offers 148 varieties, from simple favorites such as mac and cheese, to its veggie-forward Spa collection.
Interestingly, the market for frozen fare has been slipping in recent years, due to greater concern about the products nutritional value, especially sodium content, and a more widespread priority on fresh food, but as a 44 billion dollar industry, it’s still sitting pretty. For context, 2.7 billion dollars of that is for hand-held frozen foods. Frozen fruit rakes in another 422 million dollars annually, and frozen vegetables are just shy of 6 billion dollars.
Today, we have more options than ever…