I have encountered another tome - 732 pages. My last was about Vidkun Quisling, Norway's traitor of WWII - 931 pages. I must make some early comments before I forget. This book was first published in 1877 and is now reprinted by the Cambridge University Press. Amelia Edwards and a female companion whom she never names leave a tour of Europe because of bad weather and by chance go to Egypt. There is nothing in Ms. Edwards's background that would lead her to be an expert on Egypt, though the country made a profound impression upon her and she later became an "Egyptologist". I believe she is a keen observer because of her art, but there was a 3-year delay between the trip in 1873-74 and publication. I believe she was continuing her studies to accurately portray the wonders she had seen. I must constantly keep in mind that this is literally the Victorian era and Britain is the world's largest colonial power. With that in mind, though the language is exquisite, it is also very racist. The white travelers with money stay at Shepheard's Hotel. Just some of her comments: All the black-skinned people look alike.... Jew bankers in unexceptionable phaetons... the sailors on the dahabiya are as simple and trusting as children... they lay about the lower deck like dogs... fancy a bare-legged Arab making cigarettes... the whole building seems to have been put together in a barbarous way, and would appear to owe its present state of dilapidation more to bad workmanship than time, the colouring, however is purely decorative and being laid on in single tints, with no attempt at gradation or shading, conceals rather than enhances the beauty of the sculptures, ( Ms. Edwards was looking at statues that were thousands of years old - it was amazing that any vivid colors remained at all!! ), Ms. Edwards encounters children who are blind in at least one eye - her response: "Not being a particularly well-favoured race, this defect added the last touch of repulsiveness to faces already sullen, ignorant, and unfriendly. A more unprepossessing population I would never wish to see - the men half stealth, half insolent; the women bold and fierce; the children filthy, sickly, stunted, and stolid. Nothing in provincial Egypt is so painful to witness as the neglected condition of very young children.... Yet so it is; and the time when these people can be brought to comprehend the most elementary principles of sanitary reform is yet far distant. For my own part, I had not been many weeks on the Nile before I began systematically to avoid going about the native towns whenever it was practicable to do so. " (I do not have words to address this ignorance of these observers are wealthy enough to hire a boat to travel the Nile for months ), in Asyoot "its inhabitants, who, instead of being sullen, thievish, and unfriendly, are too familiar to be pleasant, and the most unappeasable beggars out of Ireland." ( At least she is a multi-cultural racist, she hates the Irish as well...., Egypt must have water. It is a duty that cannot be performed without the willing or "unwilling" co-operation of several thousand workmen." Slavery is OK. I believe the Captain of the dahabeah got a little revenge as the boat approached Luxor and the travelers were clamoring for a glimpse of the city. " Luxor - haroof - all right!!" Haroof means sheep in English, so the author speaks of the sheep they will see. I don't think the sheep in discussion had 4 legs, but were instead the ignorant tourists on board his ship. .... Not exactly the open-minded approach of an objective Egyptologist... We shall see how the visit passes...... After reading more I found that Ms. Edwards references at least 4 books written by preeminent Egyptologists. She had these books with her and referred to them constantly. Unfortunately, at least one of these experts is French and the citations are also thus. I read this book because of its reference in "Empress of the Nile: The Daredevil Archaeologist Who Saved Egypt's Ancient Temples from Destruction by Lynne Olson. This was a 5 star book for me and I cannot recommend it more highly. I have not felt so ignorant in decades, but it was such a pleasure to learn and learn on each successive page. Christiane Desroches - Noblecourt working with UNESCO and world governments managed to save many great monuments that were about to be permanently under water due to the construction of the second Aswan Dam. One of the reasons that Dr. Desroches - Noblecourt was so successful as an Egyptologist was that she treated all the Egyptians and other nationals with whom she worked with great respect - a fact that was still uncommon almost 100 years after the tour of Ms. Edwards. One event struck me profoundly by its occurrence for both authors. Both women speak of looking at the faces of Abu Simbel at sunrise and seeing a "flash" where the visages seem to be animated. Christianne saved Abu Simbel!!! Despite the racist comments, the writing of Ms. Edward is exquisite!!!!! Alas 21st century writing has lost much beauty of language. Because she is literally drawing the monuments she sees ( there are almost 100 full page lithographs and maps plus many small drawings ) Ms. Edwards does not simply observe, but sees the beauty of Egyptian antiquity. Sadly she draws our attention to the looting, damage, and graffiti - personal names - written upon structures by tourists. ( Some random personal experiences and comments from the book. ) In many cases monuments are almost buried in sand; this was a very different experience for Dr. Desroches - Noblecourt. King Tut's tomb was not discovered until 1922 and the Valleys of the Kings and Queens had not been as fully explored as they are currently. Ms. Edwards repeatedly draws our attention to all the great antiquities which had been "stolen" largely by European countries. This remains an issue to this day. Ms. Edwards reports that "only recently" has the Egyptian government restricted the export of historic artifacts. The effectiveness of this law was questionable to say the least. Speaking of Memphis she states: That Menes six or seven thousand years ago should have turned the course of the Nile to create a site for his new city. Amazing. When the wind is unfavorable, the sailors on the dahabeah had to tow the boat from the shore. Ms. Edwards' comment: it looked like slaves' work, and shocked our English notions disagreeably. ( Poor babies!! They could have waited until the wind returned and the slave labor was no longer needed to continue the journey. The English tourists had hired and paid for the transportation. ) Guards are supplied by local towns to protect the travelers from thieves. Interactions with Copts were very interesting - descendants of ancient Egyptians who had exchanged their gods for Christianity. The mail from Luxor to Cairo (450 miles) has 268 miles done in a modified "pony express" except it is done by boys on foot. Each runner is expected to do his 4 miles in one half hour so that the mail can reach its destination in 6 days. The skill required by the captain and crew to navigate the great cataract is amazing. Nubia - Philae and Abu Simbel. The travelers find an unopened chamber. They immediately telegraph the London Times. Interesting efforts to link Joseph, Moses and the Israelites' time in Egypt to inscriptions. On the return trip the mighty hunter accidentally shoots and wounds a child. A bystander throws a rock and hits him in the head. What is their concern, the welfare of the child and possible compensation for pain and suffering. No the Englishman files a complaint with the local governor because he was struck by the rock. The administrator intends to beat and imprison dozens of local men. The outcome is interesting............. So why read this book??? I cannot begin to detail the antiquities seen by Ms. Edwards or the history that is included in this book. If you were to choose between 1,000 Miles and The Empress of the Nile, hands down the choice should be Empress. If, however, you would enjoy the perspective of travelers along the Nile over 160 years ago and love Egyptian history, this book is an amazing trip. Kristi & Abby Tabby