"There are no Indians left," states George Fernandes, cryptically.
I picked this book up at a local book fair, for 100 Rs. I'd been wanting to check out some of Ghosh's work, and I've also been reading a bit of what some call 'literary journalism' these days. The blurb on the back looked promising, and I started reading it.
The book basically is Ghosh's search for reasons and motives in the aftermath of the 1999 Pokaran (also spelled Pokharan) nuclear tests. He speaks to experts, common people and politicans in his search for answers. A rather bland premise, yes, but Ghosh's search makes it interesting.
It begins with a trip to the test site and the surrounding areas, and insights from the residents on what they think of it all. Their responses, unsurprisingly are not very positive.
This section finishes off with a musing on what he calls the archaic concept of the 'great power', a musing that he returns to later.
Then, Ghosh questions some Indian politicians on their views. Here, Ghosh goes on a slight tangent to talk about George Fernandes, a senior Indian politician, and in doing so reveals a bit about his own self and his history, as well as Fernandes' politics and ideals. This section rouses in you a sense of idealism, principles and a respect for a real life person who stood up for their beliefs. A great character sketch of sorts, but on a real life person.
Ghosh then travels to Kashmir to visit the army installations there and talk to the military personnel stationed there. And here, you'll have to excuse me for some rambling, since is probably the best part of the book, and the most surreal.
A description of Ladakh follows his visit to 'lower Kashmir', and it is intense. Vivid, fanciful and inspires longing. The adjectives bring to mind sci fi and for a minute, I forgot what I was reading. How could I know that the most starkly expressive imagery of Kashmir would be from a work of literary journalism, and not a travel magazine? And it's in Kashmir where fact seems to touch fiction, because as an officer says, it's Kashmir that the common man turns into something fairy tale like, far away, to distance it from the immediacy of their minds. Helicopters being worshiped and defense ministers serving soldiers food are among the many curiosities that happen here.
Ghosh does a good job humanizing the military without sentimentalizing them.
The next section deals with Pakistan, and their perpetual dance with chaos. It explores the idea the bomb has in their collective consciousness, and how it contrasts with India. This section is a bit lacking in that Ghosh only talks to experts and the elite, but given the security conditions it's not surprising.
The narrative of his search ends with an obligatory visit to Wagah, and an account of the world famous ceremony. All sense of brewing tensions recede.
In the last section, Ghosh lists out hypothetical scenarios of nuclear war, with experts providing figures and listing out the heavy potential collateral damage - to Nepal and the Himalayan water sources, for example. He admonishes the world's lack of responsibility for failing to deal with what the 'great powers' had began during the Cold War. India's nuclear tests, he says, should wake the world from their slumber.
He finishes off with a chilling statement on how nuclear war in the Subcontinent would be tantamount to civil war, as the people affected would be the leaders' own.
The entire text features a distinct style of writing - succinct, compact and condensed. Certain motifs repeat - the monopoly of the 5 nuclear powers, India's sense of insecurity, 'great power' status, the sheer absurdness of investing in nukes in the midst of rampant poverty, the inevitability of nuclear tensions flaring up - all deeply embedded in the Subcontinent's psyche. It features talking to people as varied as Ram Vilas Paswan, the head of the Jam'at-ul-Islami, and Asma Jehangir. There's a sense of deep sympathy with the common man, but none of the usual sentimentality that follows.
Metaphors flow with sage comparisons, and you feel closer and closer to understanding 'how to love the bomb'. A great read.