For my HS music lessons, my teacher had an Amati bass, and played tuba in his Italian VFW marching band in Springfield, MA. Every Christmas his bay-window portico was filled with his presepe or crèche, the figures around a foot tall. Though I took trombone, I recall waiting for my lesson in front of the presepe, hearing fine bass music. Every jazz bassist in the Connecticut Valley studied with Mr Bev(ivino), who had emigrated from the Naples area.
Goethe writes to Herder May 27 (’86?) he had forgotten to tell about another Neapolitan characteristic, “their love of crèches, or presepe (311). Throughout the city are little huts, even on roof tops, with “large, sumptuous figures representing the adoration of the shepherds, the angels and the three Magi.” The Vesuvian background gives “the whole thing an incomparable majesty.” A page prior Pietro Fabris’s Phlegraean Plain from Ischia illustrates this majesty (Plate #44). [Goethe’s own best drawing, at 362, and a bust of him at 374].
“One may write or paint as much as one likes, but this place, the shore, the gulf, Vesuvius, the citadels [Castel d’Uovo and Castel Nuovo], the villas, everything, defies description….Now I can forgive anyone for going off his head about Naples..and think affectionately of my father, who received such lasting impressions from what I saw today…My father could never be really unhappy because his thoughts could always return to Naples.”(176). As they say here, “Vedi Napoli e poi muori!” “What is treated in Rome with the utmost solemnity is treated here with a lighthearted gaiety”(181).
Pompeii and Herculaneum were being dug up as he wrote. He even compares the small, windowless houses of Pompeii to the modern city, “As we approached Naples, the little houses struck me as being perfect copies of the houses in Pompeii”(190).
The German poet took some flak at home for his touring embrace of Catholicism, saying many saints allow one to choose a personal favorite. Goethe’s favorite is Filippo Neri of Firenze, who lived under fifteen popes, the last being Clement VIII, who signed off on G. Bruno’s execution. Near eighty, Neri, who had many times been offered the Cardinal mitre, sent a letter to Clement that two Cardinals, from Firenze and Cusano, had just visited him, and sent him some sacred ash to his San Spirito. Neri said, “Christ is God and Man and he visits me quite often”(337). The Pope responds that Neri’s letter shows some Vanity, with the Cardinal visits, but that “should our Lord visit you, pray for Us and for the urgent needs of Christendom.”
In Venice, Goethe arranges to take a ride with two gondolieri, one in front, one in back, each singing great poets, either Tasso or Ariosto, to their own folk chant-songs.
Goethe admires a young woman whose education was, as with most Italian women at the time, neglected; but, she wants to learn English, and Goethe volunteers to teach her. She comes to his office, where he aloudreads a paragraph from the Bible, pointing out specific English words and translating them. She proceeds so well that at the end of one lesson she can say the whole paragraph aloud in English.
This Pantheon edition (1962) is Illustrated by paintings and drawings, some Goethe’s own. Intro by Auden.
I may add that I have seen Naples, thanks to the NEH post-doc where we lived on the fifth floor above the Via Caracciolo (the hero Lord Nelson executed in the Bay) and studying at the Palazzo Reale, Biblioteca Nationale Napolitana, Giordano Bruno who lived at San Domenico Magiore eleven years. The Palazzo included the San Carlo, so as I read--sometimes a medieval MS Bruno may have read-- I heard a tenor or cellist rehearsing in the opera part on the building, across from the Galleria; I did hear Luisa Miller at San Carlo, years older than La Scala, in my daughter's city. Naples ranks with San Francisco, and Quebec City, as my favorites, though I'm not prepared to die for having seen any of 'em.