Newly annotated with the one thing every old stuffing recipe leaves out.
Every roast bird of the old kitchen went to the table stuffed, and the stuffing was as much a point of pride as the bird. This volume gathers the whole 120 recipes from the American and English kitchens of 1877–1922 — the sage-and-onion of the English goose, the chestnut and oyster stuffings of the Thanksgiving turkey, the bread and potato dressings of the farmhouse, the giblet and liver stuffings that used the whole bird, and the panadas, godiveaux, quenelles and forcemeats of the French kitchen, set down in full by Delmonico's and the Waldorf — drawn from thirteen turn-of-the-century cookbooks. Each is printed exactly as it first appeared and credited to its source.
Above the line, you get the recipe as it was originally written. Below it, what the old cook assumed and never wrote that a stuffing goes into the bird loosely and at the last minute and must be cooked through at its centre — the one measurement that decides whether a stuffed turkey is a triumph or a long afternoon; that the bulk of it is better baked in a dish beside the bird; that a forcemeat is bound by panada, egg and fat and tested by poaching a trial ball before the rest is shaped; that cold butter now stands where the calf's udder was; and what to do when a recipe from 1894 calls for a pound and a half of truffles. Every measure converted, with the English pint and the American pint kept straight.
Part of Century Old Kitchen — turn-of-the-century cookery, annotated for the kitchen you actually own.
The eight Panadas, Godiveaux & the Foundation Forcemeats (16 recipes) · Quenelles (14) · Fish & Shellfish Forcemeats and Stuffings (13) · Chestnut, Mushroom & Truffle Stuffings (16) · Bread, Sage, Onion & Potato Stuffings (13) · Sausage, Veal, Pork & Liver Forcemeats (13) · Stuffings for Turkey, Goose, Duck & Game (29) · Dressings & Other Stuffings (6). Plus a numbered Contents and a back-matter index, By the Bird.