I've had my copy published by Michael Joseph since the dark ages of cookbooks. All cookbooks show their age this one has its credentials in prehistory. And I probably found it at a church fete for 5 cents thirty-five years ago. But it has a few recipes that are gold and I still use them and they sustained weekday family meals for many years.
The other day the book came off the shelf so that my youngest could make macaroni cheese. He'd just finished university exams and needed something high fat, high carb to celebrate. 'Mac n cheese' fitted the mood perfectly. His older brother returned home after 18 months working in another city and they piled on it serving themselves several times. It brought good cheer and closer bonds between the two of them than I'd ever seen. Well the food helped, as did the absence. For anyone interested in Mac n Cheese, and you should be, Beard's recipe elevates this humble staple as close as possible to haute cuisine for such a dish.
The Portuguese fish soup of chopped up swordfish, broth, a little tomato, orzo and a little lemon is so good, it helped us through many winter nights as the kids were growing up. The only way I could get fish on the menu.
The pesto, fettuccine with courgettes, light tomato sauce, tomato with mushrooms, fried aubergine, gnocchi formed the backbone of domestic consumption during the early years. The carbonara is distinctly regional, meaning American, by fielding ham instead of guanciale or pancetta (or bacon). So I never used it.
For the retro-stylists among us, cold pasta salads instantly transport anyone back to the 1980s, if not the 1970s. I may try one or two of these one day.
There's a nod here to the other regional pasta users - the Greeks with Orzo and Roasted lamb tomato (yiouvetsi) and the big hitting pasticcio, noodle recipes from the east, spatzle from Central Europe. Authentic? Who cares!
It's a lot of fun, of its time, worth looking at when you're tired of the various food ideologies around these days. It's lifestyle, sure. But of another era. Look for it in church fetes and charity shops. I'm looking out for a copy for each of the boys, for their dowry. It's true, Beard was a big man and he probably ate too much (it comes through in the writing that he ate what he researched) that it probably led to his medical downfall. But, hey, we live once, I bet Beard lived well. He got an award named after him. Not many of us get that!