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Extreme Eiger: The Race to Climb the Eiger Direct
The North Face of the Eiger was long renowned as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that cost the lives of numerous mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams, one German, the other British/American aimed to climb it in a straight line from bottom to top. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each other's attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The race was on.
400 pages, Paperback
First published June 4, 2015
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Displaying 1 - 13 of 13 reviews
March 28, 2021
I'll admit I struggled with this book. Part of it was what I call genre fatigue, this being the fifth mountaineering book I'd read in about 30 days. The other part was the almost exhaustive detail the Gillman's included throughout. As tiring as I found that, it paid off at the end.
By including background on every climber involved in 1966, you end the book really feeling for them. I went into this knowing nothing about the Eiger, so as the events unravelled I had no idea who the tragedy would befall. In hindsight the book does kind of telegraph it, but I still felt myself shocked at the description of the tragedy, and feeling for the other climbers as we learnt about their lives afterwards. I do think without the exhaustive detail you wouldn't have that emotional impact.
That said, there were times when I felt the authors were, perhaps, a bit guilty of nudging the reader. "Hey guys, a tragedy happens at some point, don't forget". In other books on mountaineering tragedies these elements didn't feel quite as nudge nudge wink wink as they do here. I personally found them jarring.
The pictures included in the paperback copy I have are interesting. If you pay more attention to them than I did you'll work out what the tragedy is a lot sooner. But they do give some idea of the scale of the task that was the Eiger Direct, especially for us armchair mountaineers.
That brings me to another niggle I had, whilst the authors do try their best, this book features a lot of technical terminology that, to a layman, was quite incomprehensible. So if this is your first book in mountain climbing you might spend a decent chunk of time with a dictionary.
Overall though, this was a fascinating, well written and well balanced book. I would very much like to see the Eiger in person because pictures do not do it justice, at least based on the descriptions included here.
By including background on every climber involved in 1966, you end the book really feeling for them. I went into this knowing nothing about the Eiger, so as the events unravelled I had no idea who the tragedy would befall. In hindsight the book does kind of telegraph it, but I still felt myself shocked at the description of the tragedy, and feeling for the other climbers as we learnt about their lives afterwards. I do think without the exhaustive detail you wouldn't have that emotional impact.
That said, there were times when I felt the authors were, perhaps, a bit guilty of nudging the reader. "Hey guys, a tragedy happens at some point, don't forget". In other books on mountaineering tragedies these elements didn't feel quite as nudge nudge wink wink as they do here. I personally found them jarring.
The pictures included in the paperback copy I have are interesting. If you pay more attention to them than I did you'll work out what the tragedy is a lot sooner. But they do give some idea of the scale of the task that was the Eiger Direct, especially for us armchair mountaineers.
That brings me to another niggle I had, whilst the authors do try their best, this book features a lot of technical terminology that, to a layman, was quite incomprehensible. So if this is your first book in mountain climbing you might spend a decent chunk of time with a dictionary.
Overall though, this was a fascinating, well written and well balanced book. I would very much like to see the Eiger in person because pictures do not do it justice, at least based on the descriptions included here.
January 10, 2022
Over the years I have read many books on mountaineering, many on the Himalayas and a few on the Eiger including the tragic stories of Toni Kurz dying at the end of a rope not far from safety. I was really looking forward to reading this book .
The book is rather unbalanced ,it would have benefited from good editing. The first hundred pages paints the backstory to all of the team members,young enthusiastic climbers from varied backgrounds. It is painstaking in detail and many readers may have thrown in the towel at this stage.
The book then takes off and the story is well told and engaging though impending tragedy is telegraphed in the narrative.
After the climax of the successful race on the direct route,what is most interesting is the postscript. Each of the surviving climbers and climbers families lives were changed by the experience. The psychological impact was immense. It is a great story and well worth reading ,different to most mountaineering books with their sometimes formulaic "This is my story of climbing Everest / XXX
The book is rather unbalanced ,it would have benefited from good editing. The first hundred pages paints the backstory to all of the team members,young enthusiastic climbers from varied backgrounds. It is painstaking in detail and many readers may have thrown in the towel at this stage.
The book then takes off and the story is well told and engaging though impending tragedy is telegraphed in the narrative.
After the climax of the successful race on the direct route,what is most interesting is the postscript. Each of the surviving climbers and climbers families lives were changed by the experience. The psychological impact was immense. It is a great story and well worth reading ,different to most mountaineering books with their sometimes formulaic "This is my story of climbing Everest / XXX
July 6, 2021
Very enjoyable! A revisit of the book Peter Gillman wrote with Haston soon after the climb 50 years ago (Eiger Direct), this time with his wife Leni. He admits to being somewhat one-sided in his first book as a 22 year-old, here interviewing all of the 5 German climbers still alive, and family of the 3 who have died, in order to get a more rounded picture of what happened on the mountain when an Anglo American team of 4 ultimately joined up with a German team of 8 they were racing on the 1st north face direct route to the summit of the Eiger, after the leader of the Anglo American team, John Harlin, fell to his death. Apart from vivid descriptions of the harrowing climb itself, the unpacking of the complex web of interacting emotions involved in the 12 climbers and their support on the ground make for a good read! Peter and Leni Gillman also wrote the superb biography of George Mallory, 'The Wildest Dream', which is also well worth a read!
March 3, 2023
Masterful attempt that succeeds in giving detail and information concerning one of the world's worst climbing outcomes. The Eiger has become synonymous with danger and death, as much as or moreso than Everest.
October 10, 2020
A factual account about an extreme climbing adventure. It was written by a journalist who witnessed the tragic event that became associated with the climb and, for those involved, left an indelible mark on their lives. Climbing mountains has always had its fair share of danger, part of the reason that people engage in so called "extreme sports". For a group of climbers in the middle of the last century the challenge was to climb previously unexplored routes. At the time clothing and equipment, compared to today's standards, were rudimentary for such expeditions so it was not uncommon for climbers to lose their lives either as a result of falls, adverse weather conditions leading to rock falls/avalanches or hypothermia. Faced with these potential outcomes it took men (it was at the time a male dominated pastime) of singular courage and physical fitness to take on these challenges. Enter two groups of climbers, one composed of two Americans and a Scot, and the other of eight Germans, both wanting to conquer a direct ascent of the Eiger.
Much had already been written of the 1966 climb, including articles for the British media by the authors of this book. The intention of this account was to revisit the historical archive and reappraise some of the controversies about what happened before, during and immediately after the climb to "set the record straight". It succeeds in doing this from interviews with those of the climbers still surviving. It also gives an account of what has happened to the climbers and their families since. However most of the book is an account of the climb itself which conveys both the technical challenges of the route and the harrowing weather conditions faced by those involved. That several reached the summit was testament not only to their climbing skills but also their survival instinct. In many respects this was a "Boys Own" adventure but somewhat tempered by the realisation that the tragedy that occurred during the climb has left long lasting psychological scars for several of those involved
Much had already been written of the 1966 climb, including articles for the British media by the authors of this book. The intention of this account was to revisit the historical archive and reappraise some of the controversies about what happened before, during and immediately after the climb to "set the record straight". It succeeds in doing this from interviews with those of the climbers still surviving. It also gives an account of what has happened to the climbers and their families since. However most of the book is an account of the climb itself which conveys both the technical challenges of the route and the harrowing weather conditions faced by those involved. That several reached the summit was testament not only to their climbing skills but also their survival instinct. In many respects this was a "Boys Own" adventure but somewhat tempered by the realisation that the tragedy that occurred during the climb has left long lasting psychological scars for several of those involved
August 11, 2015
I loved this book, the narrative is unbiased despite being first person. Although it takes a while for the Eiger climb to begin the background information on all the climbers is important for the reader to care when they are on the Eiger. The writer's history with the climb adds a personal touch the the memoir and is crucial for the first person narrative. The book reads like a thriller and becomes a page turner as soon as the Eiger climb starts. The only single thing the airport edition of the book is missing is a map of the climb. Make sure you have a version that has maps because they are beautiful and reading the book without them will be very annoying.
August 31, 2015
I am not a mountaineer but it was my privilege to visit the Alps on a walking holiday in September 2014 & for 8 days experience the awesomeness of The Eiger. This book not only takes you there but puts you where few have dared to go - climbing the north face. I am not qualified to comment on climbing technique or any technical aspects of the climb but I was fascinated by the opportunity to get a rare glimpse into the minds of serious climbers & couldn't help being caught up in the triumph & tragedy of the 1966 Eiger Direct expedition. Having visited once & now having read this book I know I must return.
July 7, 2018
Such a slow start, almost half of the book is history and fun facts. I think thats fine and I understand the author wanted that, but then the cover and back cover should not be only focused on the "active" part of the book, its misleading (I bought it at the BookExchange in Ams from the display). I was about to drop it, when I reached the climbing part and that was so amazing and interesting! glad I didn't!
August 30, 2017
DNF. It's not a bad book, but it was my first foray into non-fiction for a few years and maybe I'm just used to a rapid pace of (non-fiction) books now but it didn't grip me enough to be finished before I had to return it to the library!
August 5, 2023
Exciting, if overly detailed, retelling of an important story in the history of Eiger ascents. Would have benefitted from a sterner editor as it could easily have been 50-100 pages shorter without losing anything.
April 28, 2016
I was one of the winners of the Goodreads giveaway. I liked the book but it took way too long to get to the actual climb itself which I found to be more interesting.
April 21, 2016
Interesting story of adventure. I won this in a contest and it was a good read. Thank you!
February 18, 2019
Great story. Author needed to start the story quickies and not talk so much about himself
Displaying 1 - 13 of 13 reviews