Archibald Menzies, surgeon and botanist, sailed into the Strait of Juan De Fuca with Captain George Vancouver on April 29, 1792. For the next 20 days, as Vancouver and his crew charted the bays and inlets, Menzies surveyed the plants along the shore. His journal, reprinted here, records more than the botany of the rainshadow. It describes a pristine world and its native inhabitants on the brink of momentous change. It lets us see how far we've come and helps us gauge the gains and losses along the way.