Food and the City: New York's Professional Chefs, Restaurateurs, Line Cooks, Street Vendors, and Purveyors Talk About What They Do and Why They Do It

by Ina Yalof

An unprecedented behind-the-scenes tour of New York City’s dynamic food culture, as told through the voices of the chefs, line cooks, restaurateurs, waiters, and street vendors who have made this industry their lives.
 
In Food and the City, Ina Yalof takes us on an insider’s journey into New York’s pulsating food scene alongside the men and women who call it home. Dominique Ansel declares what great good fortune led him to make the first Cronut. Lenny Berk explains why Woody Allen’s mother would allow only him to slice her lox at Zabar’s. Ghaya Oliveira, who came to New York as a young Tunisian stockbroker, opens up about her hardscrabble yet swift trajectory from dishwasher to executive pastry chef at Daniel. Restaurateur Eddie Schoenfeld describes his journey from Nice Jewish Boy from Brooklyn to New York’s Indisputable Chinese Food Maven. 
           
From old-schoolers such as David Fox, third-generation owner of Fox’s U-bet syrup, and the outspoken Upper West Side butcher “Schatzie” to new-kids-on-the-block including Patrick Collins, sous chef at The Dutch and Brooklyn artisan Lauren Clark of Sucre Mort Pralines, Food and the City is a fascinating oral history with an unforgettable gallery of New Yorkers who embody the heart and soul of a culinary metropolis. 

Genres: Food, Nonfiction, New York, Travel, Culinary, Food and Drink, Essays

384 pages, Hardcover

First published May 31, 2016

Reviews

[Aharon · Rating 3 out of 5]

Some interesting stuff but when did people start printing and binding blogs?

[Jenni · Rating 5 out of 5]

I received this book in exchange for an honest review... And I'm so glad that I did. I can not recommend this book to enough people. The stories in the book are short, sweet and crisp. They portray the characters in an amazingly real and relatable way that makes you want to know the next and the next. I was so excited when people from one story would mention the people from one that came before, or that would mention someone that you'd then hear from later in the book.
The book was so well written. Coming from the food service industry, I was inspired by the passion the story tellers hold and are able to share with the audience. Some of the stories had moments of heartbreak in them- and while they were all positive and uplifting, I found myself with tears in my eyes several times.
I found the author on Instagram and she immediately said hello and asked me what I thought of her book. This approachability is mirrored in her conversations with the storytellers in the book and you truly get that this book was a work (and I'm sure, a labor) of love.
I can only hope upon reading this that she writes more like it. I would love to hear the stories of other purveyors in other cities. This isn't a book that describes the dishes of these individuals, but you'll still be salivating at the thought of tasting the creations of the people within. If you want to share a passion for food with the people that know and understand it the best, read this book. Then do what I do... And hand it to someone else so that maybe they'll travel to New York with you to furrow out these inspiring locations to hear their stories first hand.

[Amy · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a really fun, well-written book of vignettes from New York City's food scene in all its iterations. I really enjoyed the trip!

[Melanie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Excellent look into the life of restaurant personnel and New Yorkers in general. I learned alot. Skipped a few chapters because some people have potty mouths and that's not enjoyable to read.

[Emily · Rating 1 out of 5]

This is my first DNF. Interesting concept but it didn’t make me feel anything. Made it to page 129ish.

[Glenda · Rating 3 out of 5]

3 1/2 out of 5


When it comes to food culture, I would like to think I know my way around. I worked in the restaurant industry for nearly 20 years, from fine dining to busy coffee shops. Most of that time was spent as a server but I also did my share of mixing cocktails, bussing tables, washing dishes, prepping food, and (on a few occasions I would like to forget) cooking breakfast and lunch.

The late Anthony Bourdain is still my hero. The Food Network Channel is my go-to television choice. And I love reading about the hard living behind the scenes, of the struggles a chef had before becoming a chef.

I think that's what missing from Food in the City.....the darker realities behind the successes. All of the stories show that the adage "work hard and you will succeed" is true, and that is fine and dandy, but I wanted more. Since it was New York City, I guess I was expecting a grittier take on the restaurant business. Most of the stories seemed to center around 5 star restaurants or caterers who work for the rich and famous. What about that Mom and Pop diner with the best meatloaf or the hot dog vendor who's held down the same corner spot for 20 years? I am always impressed by those who can land an executive chef job at a young age but what about the deli workers and diner servers who have worked hard at the same hole-in-the-wall for years? Those were the stories I was looking for and, sadly, did not find very many in this collection.

Don't get me wrong, I did enjoy reading these quick 3-6 page stories from some of the top in the New York City food scene. But after awhile it started to seem like the same story, just a different name and restaurant attached. A person could easily pick 15 or so at random and have the full effect of the book.

Overall, Food and the City wasn't bad and I would say give it a try. For me, it just didn't deliver the figurative punch I was expecting from a food expose.

Feel free to follow me http://alldragonsread2.home.blog
Happy Reading!!

[Jill · Rating 4 out of 5]

Ina Yalof's Food and the City delves into the stories of various individuals involved in NY's food world. As one would expect, she interviews restaurant owners and street vendors, executive chefs and line cooks. But she also and restaru

The way Yalof organises the book is fairly eclectic. Starting from Scratch pulls together the stories of 8 individuals who built a food-centred business from scratch: Dominique Ansel, Noe Baltazar of Buena Vista Tortillas, Sam Solasz of Master Purveyors, Jelena Pasic of Harlem Shake (who opened the café after her husband left her to raise two kids alone), Sammy Anastasiou of City Diner , Alvin Lee Smalls of Lee Lee's Baked Goods, Mohamed Abouelenein of The Halal Guys, and Lauren Clark of Sucre Mort Pralines.

Duck and other Dynasties covers family businesses, including the stories of Nom Wah Tea Parlor, Crescent Duck Farm on Long Island, Denino's Pizzeria and Tavern on Staten Island, Blue Ribbon Fish Company, the Peter Luger Steakhouse in Brooklyn (which gets its meat from Master Purveyors), Papaya King and Fox's U-Bet which I had never heard of until this book. (I hadn't heard of egg creams for that matter, until reading this book. And who would have thought that egg creams were made from chocolate syrup, milk and seltzer?!).

Taking the Heat pulls together stories of individuals working the line in well-known restaurant kitchens: Momofuku Ma Peche, Grand Central Oyster Bar, The Four Seasons, Le Bernardin, while Romans a Chef shines a light on the sous chefs who have a profound influence on their restaurants' food and yet remain largely unknown to diners. In this section, I love love loved the story of Ghaya Oliveira who was born, raised and educated in Tunisia, never went to culinary school but worked her way up from being a commis at Café Boulud to eventually being made executive pastry chef at Restaurant Daniel. Luisa Fernandes' story of how she started out as a nurse in a psychiatric hospital, then volunteered to serve in Sudan and Rwanda with MSF before returning to Portugal and deciding to become a chef and eventually moving to NYC as a fifty-year old to fulfil her dream of living there was pretty wild.

Then there is the Party Line, which brings together the stories of the individuals who curate experiences for their guests: a hotel banquet manager, a private chef, Burt Leventhal of Newman & Leventhal Kosher Caterers, the late Sylvia Weinstock of Sylvia Weinstock Cakes. I loved this quote from Chris Edmonds, one of the banquet managers at the Pierre Hotel, which helped me reframe during a particularly trying week at work:
"Despite having curveballs thrown at me all the time, I find this work so meaningful. I actually like resolving problems. When people tell me there's a problem, I say, "It's not a problem. It's only an issue that needs resolution."

Front of the House touches on the individuals who help create the vibe in an establishment: Ed Schoenfeld of RedFarm, Miriam Tsionov of Cheburechnaya, which serves Bukharan kosher cuisine, Jonathan Parilla of Cafeteria, David McQueen of Gramercy Tavern, Nino Esposito of Sette Mezzo, Alexander Smalls of The Cecil.

McQueen reiterates Danny Meyer's precept (which I'd first encountered in Meyer's book, Setting the Table):
"we seek out two specific characteristics before we hire an individual: Emotional intelligence and skill, at a divide of 52 percent emotional intelligence and 49 percent skill. The thinking behind this is that a skill can be taught. That is, you can learn to recognise the difference between a chardonnay and a sauvignon blanc….You can be taught how to serve something properly, or which piece of silverware to set down with which dish. What we can't teach is work ethic or self-awareness or emotional awareness - those make up the 51 percent. You either get it or you don't."

Pairings covers successful partnerships, including Connie McDonald and Pam Weeks of Levain Bakery fame (whose cookies I had a minor obsession with). But the highlight for me was the section on Crowd Feeding, which had an eclectic mix of individuals responsible for feeding large groups: a fireman on Staten Island who would cook for his unit, a caterer for production companies, and most fascinating of all: Asst Commissioner Paulette Johnson of the NYC Department of Corrections, who is in charge of the purchase, preparation and service of 47,000 meals a day for the inpats in Rikers prison, as well as the inmates of 3 facilities located in the outer boroughs, prisoners in holding cells in local courthouses and around 8000 prison staff (who eat the same food, albeit at different times from inmates). It was fascinating reading about the scale of the operations - rotisseries ovens that could each turn out 400 servings of roast chicken "in about the time it takes to watch half a segment of Law & Order", combi ovens with 5 times that capacity, 100 gallon vats each 5 feet high with steps on the side so you can see what is cooking inside. Shadow boxes which are locked boxed containing knives with a picture of each knife on the back so you can see at a glance which knives have been taken out.

Finally, Counter Culture covers the personalities serving customers behind many of NYC's food purveyors: Lenny Berk of Zabar's, Chris Borgatti of Borgatti's Ravioli and Egg Noodles, Alan Tony Schatz of Schatzie the Butcher, Rob Kaufelt of Murray's Cheese and Charlie Sahadi of Sahadi's.

Published in 2016, Yalof's Food & the City documents a scene that probably no longer exists or has radically transformed. Sylvia Weinstock Cakes no longer exists anymore, for instance, after Sylvia Weinstock passed away in 2021. Levain Bakery thank goodness is still going strong, as is Murray's Cheese Shop. A fun read for foodies, especially if you're a New Yorker.

[Sara · Rating 4 out of 5]

The title describes this book perfectly so I needn't say anything much else. It's New York, food, and perhaps most importantly, people. It's almost a nostalgic read since many of those interviewed are older and reflect on their lives. This is both a fun and fascinating read. Loved it!

[Summer Stanley · Rating 4 out of 5]

Well now I'm gonna eat my way around the city! Fun premise, great choice of venues/styles of food, wonderfully written and organized.

[Jenny · Rating 4 out of 5]

Loved seeing the different personalities and roles that make up the food scene in NYC! So interesting to see a small snippet of their lives.

[Kate · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a book of oral interviews with various people in New York City who are involved in some aspect of the food industry. However, before I can tell you any more, I need to vent about the author's weird quirk that has been driving me mad from page one. In each of these very-short chapters, the author would open with a brief third-person introduction, describing the person they were interviewing - but the author wouldn't use the person's name!

For example, the opening interview is with Noe Baltazar of Buena Vista Tortillas. The author's first introductory paragraph is just describing the company. The second paragraph opens, "He owns the company." Who? WHO owns the company? Why are you saying "he" instead of saying, "Noe Baltazar is the owner of the company?" I suspect it was trying to come off as all artsy and mysterious, but it drove me UP THE WALL, and I'm getting mad about it all over again here.

Such annoyances aside, this was a solid book. Some of the stories were extremely interesting, but I wish the author had focused more on curating quality content over quantity. All of the narratives were fascinating, but I wanted more detail, and was left with so many questions, particularly when the interviews only spanned a page or two. Additionally, this book felt a bit like a gimmick: the author basically transcribed a bunch of oral interviews, rather than truly cultivate any type of narrative.

[Susan Olesen · Rating 3 out of 5]

Food and the City, by Ina Yalof, is a compendium of short interviews (3-4 pages each) with various people in the food industry of New York City, from simple food carts to the cafeterias of Riker’s Island to Peter Luger’s. This is not so much a book about the food but the people behind it, people who were born here, or just got off the boat. Some of them are professionally trained, others have worked their way up to the top from simple dishwasher, or continued on in a family business they’ve known all their lives. Others used it as a change of career. Every one of them is absolutely passionate about their job, a requirement in a business where 18 hour days are common.

Despite the number of interviews, few stories are repetitive, beyond talking about the long hours they each put in. Because NYC is a 24-hour city, some may go to work at 3:30 am, or 10 am, or 11 pm. Many failed the first time. Others hit the jackpot on the first try, choosing the right locations at the right time. I worried I’d find the book boring – I’m not fond of interview books or volumes of very short works, but in all, I found it inspirational. Every person was following their passion, whether they knew what they loved or came to it by sheer chance (such as slicing lox as a retirement career). None were afraid of hard work or taking that wild chance, or of failing. If nothing else, I have a whole new series of eateries to try in New York!

[Samirah Mashayekh · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book combined my two favorite topics: food and essays about New York City. Essays about this glorious city give us a firsthand history. Each person who walks these streets has a different experience. The courage to share the struggles encountered while living here is a beautiful thing, one that I take great pleasure in reading (not sadistically).

Notable essays included Mohamed of Halal Guys sharing his journey from veterinary science to owning the most well-known food cart in the world; Pam and Connie's triathlon and marathon pastime, in need of a substantial protein bar, leading to the creation of Levain's perfect chocolate chip walnut cookie; and hey, did you know 5 million of America's Pekin ducks are raised in Long Island from a family-owned business, stemming from 5 ducks who waddled their way to New York from China in the 1860s?

I enjoyed this book so much. Yalof delved into every aspect of the culinary field, including biographical narratives from purveyors, executives chefs (Burma's Toni Robertson, anyone? - the first female executive chef in not one, but two countries: Singapore and South Africa), line cooks, bakers, and waiters.

[Mari Hosho · Rating 5 out of 5]

A collection of interviews from people who make up the food world of New York City. The book included not only chefs from famous restaurants but also managers, purveyors, waiters, butchers, farmers... every occupation involved from growing the food ingredient, delivering, selecting, cooking and serving.

I was amazed by the wide range of people included in the book. They work from the most prestigious restaurants in the city to Riker's Island, the firemen station and even on the street! Each episode had different and unique tone to them, and shows how diverse the food industry is depending on how they entered there and what they've become.

Yet, I was also inspired by the common New York mentality everyone has. Even if they're not from a rich family or decent origin, they grasp whatever chance that was in front of them. Many people came from all of the world, being immigrants, clueless of what the future would hold. Nevertheless, they never gave up on their life, and I realize it's a hard work, optimism and a bit of luck that led them where they are right now.

In New York, everyone has a story to tell, and that reminded me of why I love the city so much.

[Corey · Rating 4 out of 5]

There is nothing not to love about this book. What a peek inside all manner and venues of the NYC food scene in a variety of neighborhoods, dining settings, and hours of the day. If nothing else, this book confirms how challenging the food industry field is, all aspects of it, and heightens my appreciation for every great meal created with love and served by an impeccable and caring staff. Yalof presents each story with respect and affection, and I really liked the illustrations that appear throughout as well. What an eclectic group of people she has gathered in these pages, and she sprinkles each profile with useful info either about the individual or their company (I learned more about Pekin ducks than I expected!). Most of all, this book is an important reminder of how fortunate those of us who live in or near the city are to have these people taking such good care of us and, in some cases, for decades at this point.

New York: there is no place quite like it, a fact Yalof lovingly weaves into each page.

[Taranee Anne · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5 stars

This book is about food, but it is moreso about the people who came to America or to New York City to make a dream come true. What makes this book great is what makes America great - the immigrants whose stories are chronicled here.The love and gratitude so many of these people have for this country is amazing. The hard work they describe, the determination they have to follow their hearts and dreams, and the well earned success they enjoy is truly what this country is made of. Their stories are encouraging and enlightening, and a welcome reminder of what this nation truly is, and should be, about.

[Tom Bantle · Rating 2 out of 5]

This book should be mandatory reading for anyone who wants to make a career in any food business. Yalof interviewed 50 food workers and each story is about the same: if it's not your passion to the exclusion of family, friends, sleep, leisure don't do it.

Hard work, persistence, and singular focus combined with passion might let you make it in New York. Anything less: forget about it.

For the rest of us, the book is mildly interesting; the more you know about New York City food, the more you will enjoy these back stories. But it is repetitive in its theme.

I read this because I just visited New York City.

[Jamie Edwards · Rating 4 out of 5]

It's not necessary to have lived in NYC to enjoy this book but wow, it certainly helped! Am passing along to every foodie I know and also my 12 year old daughter, who I hope gets inspired by the fantastic stories of grit and passion told from the POV of chefs, line cooks, purveyors and bakers. A walk down memory lane, aka Columbus Avenue, from Fairway to Zabars and all over the five boroughs of the city.

[Mike · Rating 4 out of 5]

A fascinating, if at times skimmable, collection filled with interviews with culinary professionals across the city of New York, from Le Bernardin to the cafeterias of Rikers Island. Neruda wrote dismissively once of the poet who eats bread every day but has never met a baker, and this book would be tremendously instructive in generating empathy in the many many people I see behaving callously or rudely towards the people who work in places where food is bought and sold.

[Patrick Farley · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting collection of perspectives of people who work in the food industry in NYC. It is a good book to pick up every now and then to read a story or two. I wish the book featured a more diverse set of perspectives (It seemed like a lot of the features were of Jewish establishments, which is fine. Those stories were interesting, but in a city as diverse as New York I would prefer hearing other perspectives than the 4th, 5th, 6th Jewish perspective.

[Jeanette D. · Rating 5 out of 5]

I heard this author speak about writing this book at a book store which made me want to read it. Captivating stories about not famous people in the food industry in New York City. So many of them immigrants that came to this country with hardly anything, and then made a good life for themselves because they were hard working. Highly recommend Food and the City.

[Suzi · Rating 5 out of 5]

I miss my trips to NYCIty! These stories and interviews with people involved with restaurants, food trucks, grocers, bakers, on and on are so charming and insightful. This is why immigration works and why we enjoy the variety of food we have. I'm a picky eater but I love these stories. The wedding cake lady is my favorite. $30 a slice!

[Shelby Jacobs · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is my favorite book to recommend to anyone who is interested in diving into the non-fiction food space. A quick read that is so interesting and makes you want to run around NYC the minute you finish it. Excellent summer beach read or vacation read. My favorite story was the Meat Purveyors story. Gives you a much bigger appreciation for the truth about who really runs the NYC food scene.

[Erika Owen · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an intimate look at the people who have created the thriving food scene New York City is known for. The author covers everything from food trucks to names known around the world. The structure of this book is great for taking breaks, as each chapter highlights a different person / endeavor.

[pianogal · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a fun read b/c it wasn't the same old people. The only one I'd heard of was Luisa Fernandez, b/c I've seen her episode of Chopped (multiple times) and Dominique Ansel b/c Cronut. Makes me want to comes to New York and go on spree.

[Martin Doudoroff · Rating 2 out of 5]

Some nice, easily-digestible stories that reflect the diversity, triumphs, tribulations and sacrifices of food industry workers in NYC. But not much of a book.

[Susan · Rating 2 out of 5]

I tried, I love food books but this was a slog.

[Katie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book- VERY interesting to read about all of the various positions in a restaurant.

[Eric Rothman · Rating 3 out of 5]

Inspiring stories, but I find compilations like these difficult to stay motivated through. Just my personal taste / shortcomings.

[RisaT · Rating 4 out of 5]

perfect for a true new yorker who sees themselves in the windows of the restaurants we pass by.