A fascination with Egypt for me has mostly been centered on the grand hotels and traveling up (or down) the Nile. The pyramids, tombs, and mummies were just a bonus. You could say that it was the lure of travel in Egypt that appealed to me, fed no doubt from reading Agatha Christie and Elizabeth Peters and others who wrote mysteries and romances set there, especially historical ones set in the 18th Century. Setting off down the Nile with steamer trunks and a parasol, stopping to stay in elegant hotels like Cairo's Shepheard's, Luxor's The Winter Palace, and Aswan's Cataract, day jaunts to see desert, pyramids and tombs, were to me the ultimate in the exotic and the most desired of experiences. I did eventually get to Egypt at the end of the 20th Century; I even stayed in one of the (still) greatest of those grand hotels. Is it any wonder that when I saw this coffee table book on sale in a chain bookstore I had to buy it?
It is richly illustrated with vintage photographs and drawings. The organization is perfect - following that of the golden age traveler who first arrives in Egypt in Alexandria, then travels through Lower Egypt to Upper Egypt, or from Cairo to Damascus and on to India. There is just enough history to balance the anecdotes and architectural and ownership details to allow you to appreciate even further the important role these hotels played before the era of the airplane made travel common place rather than grand and daring.
You learn about Napoleon's visit, how the palace he arrived at on July 25, 1798 eventually became the most famous of Egypt's grand hotels, Shepheard's , whose reign as such only ended when it was burned to the ground during the riots on Black Saturday, January 26, 1952, the day the revolution threw the British out. In the pages of this book I met Agatha Miller, a young frivolous debutante uninterested in pyramids or tombs, who was brought to Cairo by her mother to find a husband, as a season in London was too costly. We meet Agatha again many years later with her second husband, only now she's known world wide as Agatha Christie. Many great writers pass through and quotes from their letters and books about their visits are liberally included. I'm very tempted to see if I can find Pierre Loti's ascerbic writings (confession I already own others by Lawrence Durrell, Mark Twain, and Gustav Flaubert). These hotels served critical functions as hospitals or military headquarters during WWI and WWII. Many of them featured in familiar films like Death on the Nile.
I am most interested after reading this book to stay in Cairo's Windsor Hotel, which as of the date of the book (2011) still has much of its original detail and features, including a vintage manually operated Schindler elevator that's a tiny glass box running up center of the winding staircase. Seems Cairo is the home of old elevators kept working with a passion close to obsession, and this elevator, dating from about 1893, is reputedly the oldest. Michael Palin stayed at the Windsor at his stop in Cairo for his series Around the World in 80 Days.
A special chapter at the end taught me all about vintage luggage stickers, images of which enliven the book's text, and how they were used by porters to distinguish which hotels a traveler's steamer trunks and other luggage were to be delivered. The artwork on these is absolutely stunning, capturing the exoticism of the local of each hotel perfectly. There is also a lengthy bibliography which lists many fictional works and memoirs referenced in the text. My TBR has expanded exponentially.
Read in short bursts, between other reading, I was richly rewarded by my impulse buy.