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At Sırtında Anadolu
Osmanlı Devleti''ndeki azınlıkların durumuna ilişkin Avrupa kamuoyunda ortaya atılan iddiaların gerçeklik derecesini anlamak, Anadolu''da olan bitenleri kendi gözleriyle görmek isteyen bir İngiliz subayı, 1876 yılında, sadık uşağıyla birlikte Anadolu''yu baştan başa dolaşır, izlenimlerini bir kitapta toplar. Başka birçok seyahat eserinin yazarı olan Burnaby''nin bu kitabı döneminde büyük ilgi görür, kısa sürede pek çok baskı yapar. At Sırtında Anadolu''nun bugünün Türkiye''sindeki okurlara da söyleyecek çok şeyi var. Dönemin politik gelişmeleri hakkında ilginç değerlendirmeler sunan kitabın asıl önemli tarafı, o günlerin Anadolusu''ndaki günlük hayatı ayrıntılarıyla aktarması. Avrupalı bir beyefendinin gözüyle ''Şark'' hayatının çeşitli yönleri ele alınıyor kitapta: Yolların bozukluğundan kadınların örtünmesine, insanların pisliğinden hastalıklara, batıl inançlardan dinin toplumdaki rolüne, yemeklerden müziğe, uşakların ücretlerinden at seçimine, yabancılara karşı takınılan tutumlardan nelere inanılıp inanılmayacağına kadar hemen hemen her konuya değiniliyor. Avrupa seyahat edebiyatının tipik temalarını sergileyen kitap ''Şark''ın özünü yakalama amacını taşıyor. Ayrıca, bu meraklı seyyah, renkli anlatımıyla okuru serüvenine ortak etmesini de biliyor. Eserin özenli, sansürsüz ve eksiksiz bir çevirisini sunuyoruz.
456 pages, Paperback
First published May 23, 1877
7 people are currently reading
393 people want to read
About the author
Frederick Burnaby
11 books4 followersEnglish adventurer, army officer, and balloonist. Died at Abu Klea, and is immortalised as the dead colonel in Henry Newbolt's "Vitaï Lampada".
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Displaying 1 - 22 of 22 reviews
September 21, 2024
Ol' Fred was up to no good. He was no slouch mind!
He was good at keeping a journal. He was good at surviving in harsh conditions. He was good at making friends along the way and while sitting by his fire before bedtime getting it all down on paper. Ol' Fred was on secret service for Queen and Country.
Once back home, be it his idea or not, all that hard work paid off: he wrote a jolly fine travel guide and it's a jolly fine read. Steeped in flavour and culture: he did make friends along the way and friends confide in friends. All good spies are good at making friends and good at getting them to talk: say more than they normally would.
Ol' Fred was as tough as ol' boots and jolly good with a pen. He probably used a pencil.
I enjoy reading about those times and about folk: how they lived, looked, worked and thought.
This is thoroughly entertaining.
He was good at keeping a journal. He was good at surviving in harsh conditions. He was good at making friends along the way and while sitting by his fire before bedtime getting it all down on paper. Ol' Fred was on secret service for Queen and Country.
Once back home, be it his idea or not, all that hard work paid off: he wrote a jolly fine travel guide and it's a jolly fine read. Steeped in flavour and culture: he did make friends along the way and friends confide in friends. All good spies are good at making friends and good at getting them to talk: say more than they normally would.
Ol' Fred was as tough as ol' boots and jolly good with a pen. He probably used a pencil.
I enjoy reading about those times and about folk: how they lived, looked, worked and thought.
This is thoroughly entertaining.
September 12, 2023
Intriguing to read an early blockbuster, a century afterwards. Frederick Burnaby’s work apparently caused quite a stir when first published in the 1890s, and has been a classic of the travel book genre ever since.
As well it might be. An account of Burnaby’s journey from Constantinople to the eastern end of Turkey, it offers really interesting insights into life and mores in Ottoman Turkey in the late 1870s, just as Russia was threatening to attack as part of its series of nibbles at the Ottoman empire. The journey he set himself was absolutely hair-raising by our cossetted contemporary standards: calmly hiring the ever-faithful Radford as his servant, buying horses in a strange land, taking on the lazy, dishonest and manipulative Osman as his local guide (until he sacked him at least): and setting out across unknown territory, just as Russia was preparing itself to invade. The things people did in those days.
The obstacles and hazards our intrepid hero faced are fascinating of themselves: crossing fast-flowing rivers, complete with horses, on a makeshift local raft; getting stuck – often – in waist-high mud or snow along the way; losing a horse because the non-intrepid servant failed to untie it, skating on horseback down the side of a glacier; and so on. All recounted in the calm tones of the Englishman abroad. A modest example – one of many dozens: the group was struggling along a narrow rock path hewn out of the side of a mountain, trying to get to the next village:
The account is also an absorbing mix of anecdotes told to him by the huge array of people he met. FB makes little of it in the text, but his ability to speak pretty much every language he encountered made these experiences exponentially richer.
Every chapter makes a passing reference somewhere to Muslim-Christian tension. It is difficult to tell whether this is a reflection of ubiquitous tension per se: or whether his interlocutors mention it because he asked them specifically. Certainly, one part of his brief was to explore whether there was any evidence to support rumours of anti-Christian discrimination (there wasn’t). All the same, there was a certain competition; and much of it expressed itself in the jostling between the Turks and the Armenians. With the wisdom of hindsight it is quite sad to read FB’s bland comments, as it is easy enough to spot the seeds of the genocide of Armenians that occurred a generation later.
All the same, I found myself harbouring a suspicion that life was somehow easier all those years ago. No, I probably wouldn’t relish the physical effort and discomfort of a journey like that: but the compelling confidence of the Englishman abroad, the sheer certainty that things would work out (and they did): must have been quite nice to experience too. Everywhere he went on his journey, people were interested and hospitable. Everywhere there was fascinating conversation and a welcoming smile. Sure, there were inevitable Asian attempts to cheat him here and there, and it’s not hard to spot the spores of future conflicts on the horizon. But he paints a picture of a lost world of simple hospitality. Lucky Burnaby.
As well it might be. An account of Burnaby’s journey from Constantinople to the eastern end of Turkey, it offers really interesting insights into life and mores in Ottoman Turkey in the late 1870s, just as Russia was threatening to attack as part of its series of nibbles at the Ottoman empire. The journey he set himself was absolutely hair-raising by our cossetted contemporary standards: calmly hiring the ever-faithful Radford as his servant, buying horses in a strange land, taking on the lazy, dishonest and manipulative Osman as his local guide (until he sacked him at least): and setting out across unknown territory, just as Russia was preparing itself to invade. The things people did in those days.
The obstacles and hazards our intrepid hero faced are fascinating of themselves: crossing fast-flowing rivers, complete with horses, on a makeshift local raft; getting stuck – often – in waist-high mud or snow along the way; losing a horse because the non-intrepid servant failed to untie it, skating on horseback down the side of a glacier; and so on. All recounted in the calm tones of the Englishman abroad. A modest example – one of many dozens: the group was struggling along a narrow rock path hewn out of the side of a mountain, trying to get to the next village:
“About 100 mules, all laden with merchandise, could be seen coming towards our party. We should have to pass them; how to do so seemed a difficult problem to solve. The track was no wider than the average dinner table.Not quite your standard Saga Over 50s holiday cruise then.
The guide soon settled the matter. Taking a whip, he struck the leading mule; the latter, to avoid punishment, ran with his load up a steep slope along the side of the path. The rest of the animals followed. There seemed to be scarcely foothold for a goat, but the mules found one. “
The account is also an absorbing mix of anecdotes told to him by the huge array of people he met. FB makes little of it in the text, but his ability to speak pretty much every language he encountered made these experiences exponentially richer.
“ [the wax candles] had been made to last a year and had cost ‘tchok para’ – a great many paras.Sometimes it is no more than gentle British humour, but quite often it is also the gentle self-confidence (arrogance?) of British imperialism that shines through: For example, when contemplating a particularly hazardous manoeuvre on horseback in the mountains:
The attendant evidently thought that he should impress my mind with this announcement, and he uttered the word ‘tchok’ in a way which no Englishman could imitate, save when he is in the extreme agonies of sea sickness…"
“My followers were looking on. What the guide had done it was very clear that an Englishman ought to do."That said, the journey was not undertaken for touristic reasons, and his main purpose – to keep an eye on the Russians as the Great Game unfolded – is apparent on every page. I was often struck how ‘contemporary’ it all felt:
“’Yes’ said the Caimacan, ‘I take an interest in [political geography], and I love my country. Until we can hem Russia in on every side, she will always be a thorn, not only in our side, but also in that of Europe.’”Quite so.
Every chapter makes a passing reference somewhere to Muslim-Christian tension. It is difficult to tell whether this is a reflection of ubiquitous tension per se: or whether his interlocutors mention it because he asked them specifically. Certainly, one part of his brief was to explore whether there was any evidence to support rumours of anti-Christian discrimination (there wasn’t). All the same, there was a certain competition; and much of it expressed itself in the jostling between the Turks and the Armenians. With the wisdom of hindsight it is quite sad to read FB’s bland comments, as it is easy enough to spot the seeds of the genocide of Armenians that occurred a generation later.
All the same, I found myself harbouring a suspicion that life was somehow easier all those years ago. No, I probably wouldn’t relish the physical effort and discomfort of a journey like that: but the compelling confidence of the Englishman abroad, the sheer certainty that things would work out (and they did): must have been quite nice to experience too. Everywhere he went on his journey, people were interested and hospitable. Everywhere there was fascinating conversation and a welcoming smile. Sure, there were inevitable Asian attempts to cheat him here and there, and it’s not hard to spot the spores of future conflicts on the horizon. But he paints a picture of a lost world of simple hospitality. Lucky Burnaby.
March 6, 2025
Read this one about 10 years ago (along with A Ride to Khiva) and while my memories of these books may be a bit fuzzy, I do remember they were engaging and entertaining. They describe winter reconnaissance journeys taken by the author (supposedly on his own initiative and at his own expense, though that is questionable) during his annual leave from the British Army. Both books are written in a memoir style and contain anecdotes and observations (many of them humorous) on the local culture, geography, economic conditions and weather as well as police and military matters. As a Victorian British military man and an advocate of "the Empire", the author has a genuine interest in "the great game" and these reconnaissance journeys allow him to take part in the game in the guise of a freelance participant. If you can imagine military surveillance in winter weather and adventure-travel on horseback in remote back country, you'll get the picture. Both books are interesting and very enjoyable reads.
April 2, 2024
Ditto - Trespassers on the Roof...
Exciting true life adventure.
Exciting true life adventure.
April 1, 2021
this was research for "Levski's Boots," and it gave me a very good perspective on late 19th century Ottoman geopolitics. Not my perspective, but there are clearly real people in there, and they have interesting opinions. The kadi with a utopian-atheist picture of the future, the pro-Ottoman Armenian, the local guide who just hates sea voyages. Burnaby liked the Ottoman Empire, and wanted to think the best of it. He wanted to be right about it, and on the right side of history. There's a definite theme of "those atrocities didn't happen, and if they did happen, it was someone else who did them, and if it was the Ottomans who did them, it wasn't as bad as everyone is saying." I was reminded of Facebook.
October 14, 2025
Another breathtaking adventure. Before my foray into the history of Empire in Asia, I thought I was pretty adventurous: I'm not. I still playing around in paddling pool.
A wonderful read.
A wonderful read.
May 30, 2025
This is really good to read. I know it sounds daft, but I became so caught up in the romance of travelling in such a way with the thought of danger at every turn.
November 28, 2017
İngiliz bir asker olan Fred Burnaby, 1876 kışında (I. Meşrutiyet ilanından bahsettiğine göre aralık ayında) Anadoluda Hristiyan azınlığa kötü muamele edildiği iddilarını araştırmak için izin kullanıp İstanbula gelir. Dört ay boyunca uşağıyla karadan, gerçekten kitaba adını verdiği üzere at üstünde İstanbuldan Vana kadar çetin kış koşullarında seyahat edip, bu coğrafyanın en yakıcı zamanlarına dair anılarını tarafsız bir gözle paylaşacaktır.
Kitap gerçekten ilginç konusuyla bir roman tadında ilerliyor ve Osmanlının son zamanlarında farklı milletler arasındaki ihtilafa önemli bir kayıt düşüyor. Yine de çok kısa süre sonra yerel olaylardan fazlaca bahsedilmesinin kitabın kendini tekrar ettiği hissi yarattığını söylemem lazım. Koyu bir protestan olan yazarın İslama ve Osmanlıya dair oryantalist bir açıdan yaklaşması şaşırtıcı değil, şaşırtıcı olan bir İngiliz yüzbaşısının nasıl gittiği her yerde resmi erkanlar tarafından bu kadar âlâyı-vâlâ ile karşılandığı (çoğunlukla gittiği yerdeki en yetkili mülki amir tarafından konuk ediliyor) ve nasıl bir merakın peşinden bu maceraya sürüklendiği.
Kitabın ana eksenini yaklaşmakta olan Osmanlı - Rus savaşı alıyor, fırtınadan önceki bu sessizlikte Rusların Ermeni toplumunu ne kadar kışkırttığı, Osmanlı yönetimine dair ortaya atılan kötü yönetim iddialarının çoğunlukla asılsız çıktığı tarafsızca ortaya konuluyor.
Tüm Anadolu coğrafyasında Ermeni nüfusun ne kadar yaygın olduğunuysa hayretler içerisinde ve hüzünle okudum. Yine de ona duyduğum hayret Burnaby’nin İstanbulda yaşayan bir İngilizle arasında geçen ve meşrutiyet zamanının özgürlükçü havasını yansıtan şu diyalog karşısında duyduğum dumur karşısında bir hiç (s.45): “İstanbulda bir şey varsa o da aşırı özgürlüktür. Gazeteler dilediklerini yazarlar, hükümeti gönüllerince yerden yere vururlar, hemen hemen hiçbiri baskı görmez. Bu arada Rusça dergilerden daha amansızca Türkiye karşıtı yayın yapan bazı İngilizce gazeteler bütün kitapçılarda satılmaktadır.” Türkiyede devran, biraz fazla çabuk dönüyor.
Kitap gerçekten ilginç konusuyla bir roman tadında ilerliyor ve Osmanlının son zamanlarında farklı milletler arasındaki ihtilafa önemli bir kayıt düşüyor. Yine de çok kısa süre sonra yerel olaylardan fazlaca bahsedilmesinin kitabın kendini tekrar ettiği hissi yarattığını söylemem lazım. Koyu bir protestan olan yazarın İslama ve Osmanlıya dair oryantalist bir açıdan yaklaşması şaşırtıcı değil, şaşırtıcı olan bir İngiliz yüzbaşısının nasıl gittiği her yerde resmi erkanlar tarafından bu kadar âlâyı-vâlâ ile karşılandığı (çoğunlukla gittiği yerdeki en yetkili mülki amir tarafından konuk ediliyor) ve nasıl bir merakın peşinden bu maceraya sürüklendiği.
Kitabın ana eksenini yaklaşmakta olan Osmanlı - Rus savaşı alıyor, fırtınadan önceki bu sessizlikte Rusların Ermeni toplumunu ne kadar kışkırttığı, Osmanlı yönetimine dair ortaya atılan kötü yönetim iddialarının çoğunlukla asılsız çıktığı tarafsızca ortaya konuluyor.
Tüm Anadolu coğrafyasında Ermeni nüfusun ne kadar yaygın olduğunuysa hayretler içerisinde ve hüzünle okudum. Yine de ona duyduğum hayret Burnaby’nin İstanbulda yaşayan bir İngilizle arasında geçen ve meşrutiyet zamanının özgürlükçü havasını yansıtan şu diyalog karşısında duyduğum dumur karşısında bir hiç (s.45): “İstanbulda bir şey varsa o da aşırı özgürlüktür. Gazeteler dilediklerini yazarlar, hükümeti gönüllerince yerden yere vururlar, hemen hemen hiçbiri baskı görmez. Bu arada Rusça dergilerden daha amansızca Türkiye karşıtı yayın yapan bazı İngilizce gazeteler bütün kitapçılarda satılmaktadır.” Türkiyede devran, biraz fazla çabuk dönüyor.
August 31, 2022
A 4.5 rounded up for its very witty, humorous, insightful, daring, adventurous, risky, and heartfelt account of Anatolia and the Ottoman Empire during one of the most fraught moments in its history. Not unlike "Black Lamb and Grey Falcon," the greatest travelogue (to my knowledge) ever written, this book is one part travelogue, one part history, and one part philosophical treatise, as Christopher Hitchens once said of Rebecca West's magnum opus. It should be required reading for anyone hoping to understand 19th century Europe, the late Ottoman and Russian empires, the high tide of European imperialism, or the bitter history of Turkish-Armenian-Kurdish relations. Altogether, a historical document of extreme interest.
September 9, 2024
An informative 'travelogue'; much of which is about the culture and the people 150 years ago (an inkling perhaps into the truth behind Captain's Barnaby's shift from military service to travel writer). I quote from the book's cover:
"Frederick Gustav Burnaby was no ordinary [army] officer. For a start he was reputed to be the strongest man in the British Army. Nor was he all brawn, being fluent in seven languages. In the savage winter of 1876, Captain Frederick Burnaby rode 1,000 miles eastwards from Constantinople to see for himself [FOR HIMSELF] what the Russians were up to in this remote corner of the Great Game battlefield. With war between Turkey and Russia imminent, he wanted to discover, among other things [for himself], whether the Sultan's armies were capable of resisting a determined Tsarist thrust towards Constantinople."
I know of another army officer (a captain) that history accepts was no ordinary officer; he was fluent, if my memory is up to snuff, in 12 languages, was physically as tough as old boot leather, incredibly determined, extremely intelligent and able to suffer any hardship in service to his country. Captain George Alexander Hill. He wrote the book: 'Go Spy the Land.'
Captain Frederick Burnaby wanted to see for himself what the Russians were up to?????
Don't dare try to pull the wool over the eyes of your readers: Captain Frederick Burnaby was ordered out, ordered to go spy the land, write his reports and scamper back. With those reports having been in the hands of the Foreign Office and the War Office for long enough, it was someones bright idea to rewrite the reports add the charming, colourful prose and announce the publication of an entertaining travelogue.
It is entertaining and I would not suggest you don't bother with it. I found the prose informative and interesting and well worth the effort.
Maybe the publisher had the idea that there was already enough out there labelled as 'spying the land' and thought Captain Burnaby's offerings were better sold as a travelogue.
Don't label me as Mrs Grumpy. I'm Mrs Suspiciously-Cynical.
"Frederick Gustav Burnaby was no ordinary [army] officer. For a start he was reputed to be the strongest man in the British Army. Nor was he all brawn, being fluent in seven languages. In the savage winter of 1876, Captain Frederick Burnaby rode 1,000 miles eastwards from Constantinople to see for himself [FOR HIMSELF] what the Russians were up to in this remote corner of the Great Game battlefield. With war between Turkey and Russia imminent, he wanted to discover, among other things [for himself], whether the Sultan's armies were capable of resisting a determined Tsarist thrust towards Constantinople."
I know of another army officer (a captain) that history accepts was no ordinary officer; he was fluent, if my memory is up to snuff, in 12 languages, was physically as tough as old boot leather, incredibly determined, extremely intelligent and able to suffer any hardship in service to his country. Captain George Alexander Hill. He wrote the book: 'Go Spy the Land.'
Captain Frederick Burnaby wanted to see for himself what the Russians were up to?????
Don't dare try to pull the wool over the eyes of your readers: Captain Frederick Burnaby was ordered out, ordered to go spy the land, write his reports and scamper back. With those reports having been in the hands of the Foreign Office and the War Office for long enough, it was someones bright idea to rewrite the reports add the charming, colourful prose and announce the publication of an entertaining travelogue.
It is entertaining and I would not suggest you don't bother with it. I found the prose informative and interesting and well worth the effort.
Maybe the publisher had the idea that there was already enough out there labelled as 'spying the land' and thought Captain Burnaby's offerings were better sold as a travelogue.
Don't label me as Mrs Grumpy. I'm Mrs Suspiciously-Cynical.
November 24, 2025
Khiva and the frozen steppes the year before were seemingly not enough for this officer gentleman, with months of leave to kill again, off he trots to Turkey and another winters hack: this time across mountains and with a lot more mud, heading East from Istanbul to the frontier with Russia in the Caucasus’ … Radford accompanied his master this time, along with a colourful cast of guides, helpers and occasional hangers on … not an easy read at times, as he was using his journal to raise points against the Russians and their actions at every opportunity… something the book when published seek to drive home with much success. This journey’s conceit was to investigate the treatment of various Christian groups across the East of the Ottoman Empire to investigate published tales of atrocities against them by Muslims, in light of the recent massacres in Bulgaria, but of course as a player in the great game, there was a little more than Christian curiosity that drove him … As ever with books written so long ago, one needs to be aware of stark cultural differences, but as with his ride to Khiva, Burnaby is a man ahead of his time in to at regard, seeking to find common ground rather than highlighting differences when meeting and interacting with the people he encounters… whilst not afraid to be truthful, he is almost always tactful too.
Want to read
January 30, 2013Portrait of Burnaby by Tissot:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia...
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia...
April 1, 2021
A very interesting travel diary by an English officer based on his traversal of Anatolia right before the beginning of the Russo-Turkish war of 1877-1878. The style and narrative are fairly straightforward, but I enjoyed all the unadorned details of the journey, which was quite a bit different from today's experience: lack of adequate roads, accommodation in filthy huts with fleas and farm animals to share the space, cheating local guides, horse accidents etc. The author also captures the diversity of the population of Anatolia: Turks, Armenians, Kurds, Circassians, Greeks, Hungarians, Italians - so much more diverse during the time of the Ottoman empire. The author is remarkably open-minded, though also has a clear anti-Russian agenda (maybe to be taken with a grain of salt, as this was written during the time of the "Great Game" with Russia and Britain vying for influence across Europe and Asia).
September 22, 2024
Captain Burnaby was an intelligence officer with the British Army (1859-1885) and his adventures on horseback, which won him great acclaim, were military missions, not holidays taken whilst on leave of duty.
Having won the respect of high-society with the London crowd, it is no wonder that his reports were later written up and became a best-selling travelogue.
That too is no wonder, as the account of his adventure is wonderfully written and includes much in the way of his meetings and views on those he came to know.
A thoroughly entertaining read, which allows for a good understanding of the culture and the people, but also, as much of an understanding of why our government’s outlook on the coming Russian-Turkish was maybe in need of review.
Having won the respect of high-society with the London crowd, it is no wonder that his reports were later written up and became a best-selling travelogue.
That too is no wonder, as the account of his adventure is wonderfully written and includes much in the way of his meetings and views on those he came to know.
A thoroughly entertaining read, which allows for a good understanding of the culture and the people, but also, as much of an understanding of why our government’s outlook on the coming Russian-Turkish was maybe in need of review.
December 27, 2018
İngiliz Albay Fred Burnaby 1876 yılında Anadolu'da yaptığı geziden gözlemlerini anlatmıştır. Kendisi Ankara'dayken anayasa kabul edilmiş ve gezisini tamamlayıp Londra'ya döndükten iki hafta sonra 93 harbi başlamıştır.
Yazarın takip ettiği güzergah İstanbul-İzmit-Ankara-Yozgat-Tokat-Sivas-Erzincan-Erzurum-Doğubayazıt-Van-Kars-Batum-Trabzon şeklindedir. Ermenilerin sadece Anadolunun doğusunda değil bütününde önemli sayıda bulunduğu kitapta anlaşılıyor.
Türklerle ilişkilerinde her bölgedeki Ermeninin bir sorunu olmamasına rağmen kendilerinden daha doğuda bulunun Ermenilerin şikayetlerini duyduklarını yazarla konuşmalarında iletirler. Fakat yazar bu gezisi sırasında Ermenilerin önemli derecede sorunları olmadığını gözlemlemiştir. Hatta tam tersine, Rusların işgal ettikleri bölgelerdeki Ermenilerin Anadoluya göç etmeye çalıştıklarını anlatır.
Gezisi sırasında konuştuğu Türklerin olası bir Rus savaşında İngilizlerin Osmanlı'dan yana taraf tutmalarını bekledikleri anlatılır.
Kitabın sonunda albay kendisi de İngiilizlerin Kafkasya ve Ortadoğudaki çıkarlarının korunması için Osmanlının desteklenmesini önermektedir.
Yazarın takip ettiği güzergah İstanbul-İzmit-Ankara-Yozgat-Tokat-Sivas-Erzincan-Erzurum-Doğubayazıt-Van-Kars-Batum-Trabzon şeklindedir. Ermenilerin sadece Anadolunun doğusunda değil bütününde önemli sayıda bulunduğu kitapta anlaşılıyor.
Türklerle ilişkilerinde her bölgedeki Ermeninin bir sorunu olmamasına rağmen kendilerinden daha doğuda bulunun Ermenilerin şikayetlerini duyduklarını yazarla konuşmalarında iletirler. Fakat yazar bu gezisi sırasında Ermenilerin önemli derecede sorunları olmadığını gözlemlemiştir. Hatta tam tersine, Rusların işgal ettikleri bölgelerdeki Ermenilerin Anadoluya göç etmeye çalıştıklarını anlatır.
Gezisi sırasında konuştuğu Türklerin olası bir Rus savaşında İngilizlerin Osmanlı'dan yana taraf tutmalarını bekledikleri anlatılır.
Kitabın sonunda albay kendisi de İngiilizlerin Kafkasya ve Ortadoğudaki çıkarlarının korunması için Osmanlının desteklenmesini önermektedir.
December 23, 2022
Tam Rus savaşı oncesi at sirtinda Anadolu'yu bir uctan bir uca geçmiş İngiliz askerinin seyahat güncesi! Dönemin sosyo-politik gözlemleri ile atlarla yaptığı zorlu yolculuğu anlatan keyifli bir kitap.
November 6, 2017
I posted my review of this book on my blog: https://wp.me/p3SeEv-2LL
July 22, 2018
Bir çok yerleşim yerinin nüfus yapısına ilişkin de bilgi alınabilir. Anadolu'yu boydan boya gezen bir İngiliz subayı.
July 13, 2025
An interesting adventure, with colourful portraits of various characters and events. The conflicts are well-portrayed, and so are the human choices made.
August 1, 2025
The book is the diary of British soldier Fred Burney’s journey through Anatolia between the years 1876 and 1877. In 1876, in response to the public opinion formed against the Ottoman Empire following the Bulgarian uprisings, he was sent to Anatolia to investigate claims that Christians were being mistreated and even impaled. However, as his journey progresses, he begins to question these allegations.
It becomes impossible not to feel sorrow in the face of the poverty, ignorance, despair, and disorganization of the Ottoman people and military on the eve of the Russo-Turkish War of 1877. In the letters Burney wrote to his superiors as reports, he concludes that the Ottoman Empire is ruled by poor laws amidst ignorance, injustice, and poverty — but these injustices and poverty are almost equally distributed among everyone.
The Turks may not be angels, but neither are the many other peoples such as the Greeks, Armenians, Circassians, Kurds, or Yazidis. In fact, the ethnic groups involved in regional conflicts vary depending on the area. The main point the author emphasizes is that the root of unrest in Anatolia is the Russians (though, of course, the many British, French, and German agents in the region are not mentioned). Russian interference had reached such a level that they were even issuing Russian passports to Ottoman Christian subjects, particularly Armenians.
Aside from the Caucasian peoples, no effort was spared in trying to turn all the other Anatolian populations against the Turks. The author also describes the conscription of Muslim Ottoman subjects: For the 1877 war, Circassians — regarded as irregular fighters due to blood feuds with the Russians — participated in almost their entirety.
Kurdish decisions, however, varied by region: In the Dersim area, Kurds avoided conscription by migrating in a nomadic fashion, while in the Van region, many were said to fake back injuries to escape military service. From the Bitlis area, however, a significant number of tribal groups were reportedly ready to fight. Each ethnic group's attitude varied depending on their region.
It is quite fascinating to see these historical records with the real names of real people. Recently, I saw a comment by a foreign reader saying: “The author must have liked the Turks, because he kept writing nice things about them.” In reality, the author didn’t particularly praise the Turks — rather, readers are disturbed because he also pointed out the flaws of other ethnic groups. It seems that breaking down prejudices is nearly impossible.
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Kitap İngiliz Asker Fred Burney'ın 1876-1877 yılları arasındaki Anadolu Yolcuğunun güncesi.1876 yılında Bulgar isyanları sonrası Osmanlıya karşı oluşturulan kamuoyuna istinaden, hristiyan halka kötü davranıldığı ve kazığa geçirildikleri iddalarını kontrol için Anadoluya gönderiliyor. Ancak yolculugunda bu iddiaya supheyle yaklasmaya basliyor.1877'de başlayacak olan 93 harbinin hazırlıkları ve osmanlı halkının,ordusunun sefaleti,cehaleti, umutsuzluğu, dağılmışlığı karşısında üzülmemek imkansız. Yazarın kendi makamlarına rapor mahiyetinde yazdığı mektuplardaki sonuç ise; Osmanlı'nın cehalet, adaletsizlik, fakirlik içinde kötü yasalarla ile yönetildiği , ancak adaletsizlik ve fakirlik ve kötü yasaların neredeyse herkese eşit dağıtıldığıdır . Türkler belki melek değil ama Rumlar, Ermeniler, Çerkesler, Kürtler, Yezdiler gibi sayısız halkın da meleklerle pek bağlantısı yok . Hatta bölgesel olarak çekişmenin tarafları olan halklar da farklılaşmakta. Ve yazarın asıl üzerinde durduğu Anadolu'daki esas huzursuzluğun nedeni Ruslar (buradaki sayısız İngiliz, Fransız ve Alman ajanları tabii ki anlatılmıyor). Ruslarin iç müdahalesi Osmanlı Hristiyan tebası Ermeniler'e Rus pasaportu dahi verecek seviyeye ulaşmış durumda.
Kafkas halkları dışında nadolu'daki tüm halklar Türkler 'e karşı çevirmek için atılmayan adım yok. Osmanlı Müslüman tebasından asker toplama süreçlerinden de bahsediyor yazar; 93 Harbi için Çerkeler, Ruslar ile olan kan davalarından ötürü başıbozuk diye kabul edilen birlikler şeklinde neredeyse tüm sayılarıyla
ile savaşta yer alıyor. Kürtlerin kararlarının ise bölgesel olarak farklılık gösterdiği görülüyor; Dersim bolgesindekiler göçer şekilde yer değiştirerek askere gitmemek yönünde yol izlerken, Van bölgesinde bel fıtığı oluşturarak askere gitmekten kaçıldığı görülüyor. Bitlis yöresinden ise hatırı sayılır sayıda aşiretin savaşta hazır olacağı bilgisi paylaşılıyor. Her halkin her bilgedeki fikri farkli. Cok ilginc tarihi kayitlari gercek insanlarin isimleri ile görmek. Geçenlerde yorumlarında yabancı bir okurdan kitap icin şu şekilde bir yorum gördüm: "Yazar Türkleri sevdiği için iyi yanlarını yazmış ve sürekli güzellemiş." Yazar, Türklere pek iyi bir şey yazmamış aslında,sadece; diğer halkların da kötü yanlarını yazdığı için rahatsızlık duyulmuş. Gerçekten önyargıları kırmak imkânsız .
It becomes impossible not to feel sorrow in the face of the poverty, ignorance, despair, and disorganization of the Ottoman people and military on the eve of the Russo-Turkish War of 1877. In the letters Burney wrote to his superiors as reports, he concludes that the Ottoman Empire is ruled by poor laws amidst ignorance, injustice, and poverty — but these injustices and poverty are almost equally distributed among everyone.
The Turks may not be angels, but neither are the many other peoples such as the Greeks, Armenians, Circassians, Kurds, or Yazidis. In fact, the ethnic groups involved in regional conflicts vary depending on the area. The main point the author emphasizes is that the root of unrest in Anatolia is the Russians (though, of course, the many British, French, and German agents in the region are not mentioned). Russian interference had reached such a level that they were even issuing Russian passports to Ottoman Christian subjects, particularly Armenians.
Aside from the Caucasian peoples, no effort was spared in trying to turn all the other Anatolian populations against the Turks. The author also describes the conscription of Muslim Ottoman subjects: For the 1877 war, Circassians — regarded as irregular fighters due to blood feuds with the Russians — participated in almost their entirety.
Kurdish decisions, however, varied by region: In the Dersim area, Kurds avoided conscription by migrating in a nomadic fashion, while in the Van region, many were said to fake back injuries to escape military service. From the Bitlis area, however, a significant number of tribal groups were reportedly ready to fight. Each ethnic group's attitude varied depending on their region.
It is quite fascinating to see these historical records with the real names of real people. Recently, I saw a comment by a foreign reader saying: “The author must have liked the Turks, because he kept writing nice things about them.” In reality, the author didn’t particularly praise the Turks — rather, readers are disturbed because he also pointed out the flaws of other ethnic groups. It seems that breaking down prejudices is nearly impossible.
=======================================
Kitap İngiliz Asker Fred Burney'ın 1876-1877 yılları arasındaki Anadolu Yolcuğunun güncesi.1876 yılında Bulgar isyanları sonrası Osmanlıya karşı oluşturulan kamuoyuna istinaden, hristiyan halka kötü davranıldığı ve kazığa geçirildikleri iddalarını kontrol için Anadoluya gönderiliyor. Ancak yolculugunda bu iddiaya supheyle yaklasmaya basliyor.1877'de başlayacak olan 93 harbinin hazırlıkları ve osmanlı halkının,ordusunun sefaleti,cehaleti, umutsuzluğu, dağılmışlığı karşısında üzülmemek imkansız. Yazarın kendi makamlarına rapor mahiyetinde yazdığı mektuplardaki sonuç ise; Osmanlı'nın cehalet, adaletsizlik, fakirlik içinde kötü yasalarla ile yönetildiği , ancak adaletsizlik ve fakirlik ve kötü yasaların neredeyse herkese eşit dağıtıldığıdır . Türkler belki melek değil ama Rumlar, Ermeniler, Çerkesler, Kürtler, Yezdiler gibi sayısız halkın da meleklerle pek bağlantısı yok . Hatta bölgesel olarak çekişmenin tarafları olan halklar da farklılaşmakta. Ve yazarın asıl üzerinde durduğu Anadolu'daki esas huzursuzluğun nedeni Ruslar (buradaki sayısız İngiliz, Fransız ve Alman ajanları tabii ki anlatılmıyor). Ruslarin iç müdahalesi Osmanlı Hristiyan tebası Ermeniler'e Rus pasaportu dahi verecek seviyeye ulaşmış durumda.
Kafkas halkları dışında nadolu'daki tüm halklar Türkler 'e karşı çevirmek için atılmayan adım yok. Osmanlı Müslüman tebasından asker toplama süreçlerinden de bahsediyor yazar; 93 Harbi için Çerkeler, Ruslar ile olan kan davalarından ötürü başıbozuk diye kabul edilen birlikler şeklinde neredeyse tüm sayılarıyla
ile savaşta yer alıyor. Kürtlerin kararlarının ise bölgesel olarak farklılık gösterdiği görülüyor; Dersim bolgesindekiler göçer şekilde yer değiştirerek askere gitmemek yönünde yol izlerken, Van bölgesinde bel fıtığı oluşturarak askere gitmekten kaçıldığı görülüyor. Bitlis yöresinden ise hatırı sayılır sayıda aşiretin savaşta hazır olacağı bilgisi paylaşılıyor. Her halkin her bilgedeki fikri farkli. Cok ilginc tarihi kayitlari gercek insanlarin isimleri ile görmek. Geçenlerde yorumlarında yabancı bir okurdan kitap icin şu şekilde bir yorum gördüm: "Yazar Türkleri sevdiği için iyi yanlarını yazmış ve sürekli güzellemiş." Yazar, Türklere pek iyi bir şey yazmamış aslında,sadece; diğer halkların da kötü yanlarını yazdığı için rahatsızlık duyulmuş. Gerçekten önyargıları kırmak imkânsız .
July 17, 2024
A British army officer proud of his nation and its empire when taking leave from his duties, he holidays, on horseback, in Asia Minor. To while away his evenings he keeps a detailed, humorous and jolly interesting diary: others might call it, 'a travel guide'.
It's a great read and full of the most interesting reflections on life back then.
The man has grit and faces many challenges, not least the climate he faces.
All this is accomplished during the rising tensions between the Russian and Ottoman Empires, in the later part of the 19th Century.
Holidaying? Was he, I ask, out there spying the land for his masters?
It's a great read and full of the most interesting reflections on life back then.
The man has grit and faces many challenges, not least the climate he faces.
All this is accomplished during the rising tensions between the Russian and Ottoman Empires, in the later part of the 19th Century.
Holidaying? Was he, I ask, out there spying the land for his masters?
December 7, 2015
mükemmel tavsir edilmiş bir Anadolu ve zamanı tarafsız bir şekilde anlatabilen bir İngiliz sasirmadim desem yalan olur. Ders alabilecegimiz bir sürü konuyu içerdiğini düşünüyorum. normal bir roman gibi değil altı çizile çizile okunması gereken güzel bir eser.
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