Devastating. It strips the skin from the hide and burns the fat from the brain.
Reading this after reading Arctic Dreams and Strange Piece of Paradise, it's clear how much better a writer Terry Tempest Williams is than most other humans. Already her "Refuge" is on my shortlist of most important books, and now this one joins it on the shelf of books I'd want if I were ever stranded on an island. There is so much wisdom, so much humanity here--and so much devastation and horror. It is a quest to be dignified in a world that only offer indignities.
At first blush, the book seems like four unrelated essays, the first the least interesting thematically: a middle-aged woman from America who goes to Italy, studies art, and discovers spiritual truths. This would be weak sauce--Under a Tuscan Sun; Eat, Pray, Love--if it weren't for the formal and structural experiments Williams was making, and the promises she was making to the reader with those. The story then switches, for the meaty middle, back to Williams's beloved southwest corner of America, where she studies prairie dogs, those much-despised, much-neglected varmints. The section is told much through her field notes. Interwoven is the story of her own family's life on that same land, and the tragic death of her brother, still then only in his forties, from a cancer she obliquely blames on the area's radioactive history. This book is very much a sequel to Refuge, which detailed the death of her mother from cancer.
Another radical rupture, and the book skips to Rwanda, in the years after the horrible genocide that still haunts the country. Williams has reluctantly been recruited to help with a mosaic memorial to the dead as a kind of reconciliation. Without a doubt, this is the hardest section to read. There is a fourth section, a kind of coda, in which Williams and her husband--childless by choice--bring a Rwandan man to America to study--a man, no doubt, who nonetheless considers Williams a maternal figure.
Much to her chagrin: which is all to her credit.
The book skirts a lot of the same pitfalls that trapped López in Arctic Dreams--the cultural tourism, romanticizing nature, the privileged outsider judging the actions of others--but avoids them all. Williams has a sense of humor, though her book deals with subjects of the utmost seriousness: art; engagement with the natural world; human depravities. She has an ironic sense--not arch, but reflexive and humbling, recognizing her own complicity. She understands the absurd--she tells the tale of having diarrhea, after her first visit to Africa, seeing the end of a tapeworm stick out of her, and trying to grab it and pull it out.
The world can be--often is--a very shitty place, in the most literal sense, and she understands that. She understands, too, the limits of understanding human motivation, and dreams--not just by judging others, but in her own self, too, her own misunderstandings of the world, her own difficulties finding refuge in a world that is broken, that offers death as its only sure reward.
She is trying--through her words, through the innovative, fragmentary--mosaical--structure to create bits of hope, to reflect the light. There are sinews here, poetic, themes and tropes developed deeply through repetition, often only subtly mentioned, that make the book a complete whole, the various portions part of one complete picture: an image that tries to show the possibility of dignity that comes only from facing and surviving life's worst.
A tour-de-force.