A tasty, informative and witty account of bangers and bratwurst from all cultures and periods, easing our fears about ‘mystery meats’ and introducing the reader to a host of unusual treats from around the world. This lively history includes many recipes, both historic and original, and is superbly illustrated with a wide range of international examples, as well as antique posters and advertisements, artworks and cartoons. A virtual alphabet of sausages, from Andouilles to zampone, Sausage is sure to whet the appetite of chorizo and bologna aficionados and food scholars alike.
An interesting little book, the first chapter is the most in depth & (relatively) thoroughly referenced. But it all goes a bit downhill from there, like the author just ran out of steam. I think most of the problems are down to bad editing (unbalanced sections, subheadings suddenly stop, repetition) & it reads like a fairly decent first draft.
This is a relatively short book that, much like the snags and salamis it discusses, packs a lot of savoury titbits into a reasonably appetising package. Allen has done well for such a niche book, producing a book that will appeal to anyone who enjoys a 'mystery bag' once in a while.
The greatest strength of 'Sausage: A Global History' are the well-researched chapters on the sausage's past. Allen has done well to mine the various cook books and texts that discuss the snag from the Graeco-Roman world right through to the late Renaissance. He has done particularly well when reviewing the history of the Italian sausage, though I thought more could've been done with other countries' traditions (especially Germany). Oh, and on a purely parochial note there is nowhere near enough done to discuss the history and cultural importance of the sausage in Australia (leaving out the Bung Fritz is a crime in my opinion).
Allen also does well, if not quite in such interesting detail, when he discusses and accounts for the processes involved with the various types of sausage making. Perhaps a bit too dry for the casual reader, it is good to know how different manufacturing and preparation methods influence the storage, appearance and taste of different types of sausage.
Where I was less engaged with this book, and this may be a slightly unfair criticism, is that Allen spends a great deal of his text cataloguing dozens of different sausages with great detail on their ingredients and names. Don't get me wrong; it's good to know the difference between Mortadella, Chorizo, Teewurst and Saucisson. However I found my eyes glazing over and my mind drifting when I read paragraphs of text that were like a butcher's catalogue.
Perhaps if the author had spent a little less time going into such specific detail on individual regional and national varieties, and looked more at the socio-cultural history of sausages the book would've been more engaging. That's my take, and I'm happy to admit other readers may disagree.
In summary, 'Sausages: A Global History' is a worthwhile monograph on a major food product that forms a significant part of global cuisine. A quick and easy read it will certainly find plenty of readers if they are made aware of it.
Gary Allen’s delightful new book, Sausage: A Global History, tells the fascinating back-story of sausages and how they evolved into the tasty, flavorful packages found in cuisines around the world. As Allen duly notes, “today sausages are equally at home in street vendors’ carts and in white-tablecloth dining establishments.” Long ago, our ancestors figured out that the intestines, stomachs, bladders and skins of animals could be useful containers for all the scraps of meat and organs that might otherwise be wasted. So, while it is true that sausage may have started out as “the efficient use of every part of a slaughtered beast,” Allen colorfully describes how they progressed to become “the darling of diners – daring and otherwise.” Although pork and beef are the ubiquitous varieties, lots of meats have been made into sausages, including lamb, goat, horsemeat, offal, poultry, seafood, and even elephant. Some cultures even have vegetable and grain sausages that predate the modern vegetarian craze. Allen covers in detail all the diverse and interesting ingredients that provide flavor and texture to these juicy parcels. He discusses some that might seem kind of unusual, including almonds, pistachios, walnuts, pine nuts, cinnamon and nutmeg, as well as more commonly recognized sausage flavorings such as sage, fennel, and garlic. Many of these combinations are a result of the meshing together of various cuisines as they conquered and/or developed trade routes with other regions. Local ingredients were integrated with those from exotic locales to create unique taste sensations. Sausage cooking and preserving methods are as varied as the ingredients, which results in a rainbow of hues for the finished product. A colorful lot, sausages range in color from the very pale German Weisswurst, which is white because it is unsmoked and contains no nitrites that would turn it pink, to very dark smoked and blood sausages. Blood is an ingredient that shows up in the earliest sausage references, reflecting the ‘no-waste’ attitudes of the past. Pigs blood is most commonly used – in addition to providing the sausage with a dark color, it also flavors the sausage. Although many might be squeamish about giving it a try, Allen notes that blood sausages are alive and well - part of a trend that is linked to the Slow Food movement, as well as a desire for folks to show respect for the animals we eat, and to explore the taste of history that would otherwise be lost – a way of reviving the kind of frugality that led to the invention of sausages. Chock-full of historical nuggets and informative references to the present day, this book is a mouthwatering look at this important food that has stood the test of time. Descriptive photos and illustrations are peppered throughout. For those hungering for a taste, Allen provides a selection of sausage recipes – the Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage is definitely on my list of those to try!
This was an ok book on sausages from around the world. Some of the recipes are quite interesting while some I would not try on a dare.
Some of the history surrounding sausage making was interesting, but the best part of the book is towards the end where the summary of sausages of the world is.
It is amazing how each culture has developed similar sausages. I was surprised to see that offal and blood sausages are fairly common in all cultures with the exception of the Jewish and Muslim ones.