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Sherpa: The Memoir of Ang Tharkay
• Stories told from a non-Western perspective by one of the most accomplished early climbers.
Sherpas have recently been in the public eye, in part because of the 2013 Everest “brawl,” the 2014 avalanche that took the lives of thirteen climbing Sherpas, and the 2015 earthquake that devastated Nepal. These events and others have led to much public discussion about how Sherpas today are treated and viewed by their Western employers. Sherpa expands our understanding of these issues by providing historical context.
The autobiography of Ang Tharkay, who was born in 1908 and became one of the most renowned Sherpas of early Himalayan exploration, has long been a collector’s item in the original French-language edition but it has never been available in English until now.
In Sherpa , Tharkay describes his experiences traveling with Eric Shipton and H.W. Tilman and as the sirdar (head Sherpa) on Maurice Herzog’s 1950 ascent of Annapurna. Few such Sherpa accounts have been written, and fewer still from these early Himalayan expeditions. Opening with a brief account of Tharkay’s childhood and background, Sherpa then immerses readers in expeditions on Everest, Nanga Parbat, and, of course, Annapurna. Tharkay reveals some of the politics within the Sherpa support petty arguments and shared struggles that went unnoticed or at least unrecorded by those who hired them. Tharkay’s admiration of his employers is leavened with his recognition of their shortcomings, but his affection for the climbers who employed him, and theirs for him, radiates throughout the story.
Sherpa includes an original foreword by Tashi Sherpa, founder of Sherpa Adventure Gear and the nephew of Ang Tharkay. He remembers how he and his young cousins worshipped “Agu” (Uncle) as a respected mountaineer and hero, a warm and safe presence for the family.
This title is part of our LEGENDS AND LORE series. to learn more.
Sherpas have recently been in the public eye, in part because of the 2013 Everest “brawl,” the 2014 avalanche that took the lives of thirteen climbing Sherpas, and the 2015 earthquake that devastated Nepal. These events and others have led to much public discussion about how Sherpas today are treated and viewed by their Western employers. Sherpa expands our understanding of these issues by providing historical context.
The autobiography of Ang Tharkay, who was born in 1908 and became one of the most renowned Sherpas of early Himalayan exploration, has long been a collector’s item in the original French-language edition but it has never been available in English until now.
In Sherpa , Tharkay describes his experiences traveling with Eric Shipton and H.W. Tilman and as the sirdar (head Sherpa) on Maurice Herzog’s 1950 ascent of Annapurna. Few such Sherpa accounts have been written, and fewer still from these early Himalayan expeditions. Opening with a brief account of Tharkay’s childhood and background, Sherpa then immerses readers in expeditions on Everest, Nanga Parbat, and, of course, Annapurna. Tharkay reveals some of the politics within the Sherpa support petty arguments and shared struggles that went unnoticed or at least unrecorded by those who hired them. Tharkay’s admiration of his employers is leavened with his recognition of their shortcomings, but his affection for the climbers who employed him, and theirs for him, radiates throughout the story.
Sherpa includes an original foreword by Tashi Sherpa, founder of Sherpa Adventure Gear and the nephew of Ang Tharkay. He remembers how he and his young cousins worshipped “Agu” (Uncle) as a respected mountaineer and hero, a warm and safe presence for the family.
This title is part of our LEGENDS AND LORE series. to learn more.
192 pages, Paperback
Published February 16, 2016
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Displaying 1 - 10 of 10 reviews
November 9, 2016
I received this in a giveaway.
This autobiography of a Sherpa will take you back in time to early mountaineering. Modern technology allowed people to climb higher than previously thought possible. This sense of mystery and adventure seduced people like Ang Tharkay. The descriptions of the mountains really take you there and it was interesting to see how climbers from different countries were received by him.
It wasn't a bad book, but will probably only be of interest to the serious mountaineers.
This autobiography of a Sherpa will take you back in time to early mountaineering. Modern technology allowed people to climb higher than previously thought possible. This sense of mystery and adventure seduced people like Ang Tharkay. The descriptions of the mountains really take you there and it was interesting to see how climbers from different countries were received by him.
It wasn't a bad book, but will probably only be of interest to the serious mountaineers.
May 10, 2016
"What we were being asked to do had never been done, and we considered it a breach of contract."
This book gives a face and name to the often unseen journeys to Annapurna and beyond.
While Ang himself calls the story humble it's an eye opening and honest account of early trips as a Sherpa into the mountains. Ang has a delightful way with words and captures some harrowing moments that have gone overlooked.
It's a unique perspective and light read. It was especially nice to see Ang travel beyond the mountains that he was enchanted by for his work. It's a good read with an honest telling.
This book gives a face and name to the often unseen journeys to Annapurna and beyond.
While Ang himself calls the story humble it's an eye opening and honest account of early trips as a Sherpa into the mountains. Ang has a delightful way with words and captures some harrowing moments that have gone overlooked.
It's a unique perspective and light read. It was especially nice to see Ang travel beyond the mountains that he was enchanted by for his work. It's a good read with an honest telling.
August 30, 2021
This book will take you in journey to the highest peak in the world ☁️
It will introduce you to the mighty massive of the Himalayas 🗻
You will feel the cold wind slamming your face and the icy rain soaking your body 🌧🌨❄
The memories of Ang Tharkay, one of the legends of the Himalayan mountaineers, are so beautifully written. You will feel these memories strongly vivid and alive and you will test all the hardships these legends faced to reach the highest peaks of their dreams.
The book will summarize the steps Ang Tharkay followed to become a Sherpa from his childhood to the moment when he became an important member in the most famous expeditions of the history. In addition, the book shows the evolution of the extraordinary skills that Ang Tharkay developed through his life.
🌨🗻
This book is perfect for those who love mountaineering and want to discover more about the Himalayas 🗻🏔 it reveals the beauty, the mighty and the terror of Himalayan adventure as well as the personalities and complex social interactions that a Sherpa encounter through his life.
Finally the book was a great way to shed the light on the spirit of Ang Tharkay that shines as one of the greatest Sherpas of all time, in all his courage, intelligence, and grace.
I loved every single word in this book ❤ and I think I'll read more of this mountaineering series 🏔❄
It will introduce you to the mighty massive of the Himalayas 🗻
You will feel the cold wind slamming your face and the icy rain soaking your body 🌧🌨❄
The memories of Ang Tharkay, one of the legends of the Himalayan mountaineers, are so beautifully written. You will feel these memories strongly vivid and alive and you will test all the hardships these legends faced to reach the highest peaks of their dreams.
The book will summarize the steps Ang Tharkay followed to become a Sherpa from his childhood to the moment when he became an important member in the most famous expeditions of the history. In addition, the book shows the evolution of the extraordinary skills that Ang Tharkay developed through his life.
🌨🗻
This book is perfect for those who love mountaineering and want to discover more about the Himalayas 🗻🏔 it reveals the beauty, the mighty and the terror of Himalayan adventure as well as the personalities and complex social interactions that a Sherpa encounter through his life.
Finally the book was a great way to shed the light on the spirit of Ang Tharkay that shines as one of the greatest Sherpas of all time, in all his courage, intelligence, and grace.
I loved every single word in this book ❤ and I think I'll read more of this mountaineering series 🏔❄
April 24, 2020
Mr. Tharkay’s memoir is beautiful, well told, and depicts a truly astounding life.
The book tells us Mr. Tharkay’s life story, one of a poor Sherpa who started toiling in the mountains not for recreation but subsistance, and who proved himself so fierce and competent he became the most prominent sirdar (a leader of Sherpas on an expedition) of a generation.
Mr. Tharkay’s most notable achievement is perhaps his leadership role on the French expedition to Annapurna of 1950, during which he may very well have joined Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on the summit had it not been for the self-effacement that came to define his character.
His name would still be the most known Sherpa name in the world were it not for a man named a few years later, Tenzing Norgay of course, who famously made the first climb of Mount Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953.
A very worthy read for any amateur climbing historian.
The book tells us Mr. Tharkay’s life story, one of a poor Sherpa who started toiling in the mountains not for recreation but subsistance, and who proved himself so fierce and competent he became the most prominent sirdar (a leader of Sherpas on an expedition) of a generation.
Mr. Tharkay’s most notable achievement is perhaps his leadership role on the French expedition to Annapurna of 1950, during which he may very well have joined Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on the summit had it not been for the self-effacement that came to define his character.
His name would still be the most known Sherpa name in the world were it not for a man named a few years later, Tenzing Norgay of course, who famously made the first climb of Mount Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953.
A very worthy read for any amateur climbing historian.
April 18, 2016
Corinne McKay's stunning translation of SHERPA: THE MEMOIR OF ANG THARKAY for the Mountaineers Books Legends and Lore series is a work of literary art. In prose at once elegant and accessible, this riveting autobiography makes Ang Tharkay's childhood, decision to become a Sherpa, expeditions, and the evolution of the extraordinary skills that led to his role in the conquest of Annapurna available to an English-speaking audience. McKay illuminates the beauty and terror of Himalayan adventure as well as the personalities and complex social interactions of Sherpa life. Most of all, the spirit of Ang Tharkay shines through as one of the greatest Sherpas of all time, in all his courage, humility, intelligence, and grace.
May 11, 2016
I loved this book on the life of a Sherpa. This is the story of the life of Ang Tharkay, from birth through his decision to become a Sherpa and his expeditions. The book is so well written that you can picture the expeditions in your mind.
June 26, 2016
I really enjoyed this book.
May 13, 2016
A necessary telling of an important piece of climbing history and Sherpa history. To have an account from the lead Sherpa's viewpoint of these historical climbs is a treasure!
January 15, 2023
Enjoyable read if you like the content.
April 22, 2025
Leaning 3.5. Good but wish it was more focused on Ang's reflections / philosophy on mountaineering and life etc. Also Annapurna summit was somehow the least exciting part of the book lol
Displaying 1 - 10 of 10 reviews