I've seen the recent movies and read several of the older biographies as they came out. Still, there is a lot new here, and always more to learn about this extraordinary woman. Focusing only on the intimate life of Gabrielle Chanel, sets this book apart.
To understand Chanel you have to consider the actual childhood and the childhood she imagined and the power of her first experience of being in love. Arthur Capel and Chanel were in love but her common roots and her growing success made the aristocratic Diana Wyndham a safer choice. His life, his views expressed through his writing, his success and her youth make his marriage and his death defining moments for Chanel. Subsequent liaisons could never measure up/ The men that possibly could have filled his shoes seemed to want to compete with her as she became more and more successful.
Lisa Chaney suggests that Arthur Capel may have committed suicide. I had wondered this, since the accounts of the accident, and the film portrayal of the scene would suggest whiplash and not a burned body. From the newly discovered letters, and his continuing relationship with Chanel after his marriage, he was under enormous strain.
Her success makes it hard to believe the first hand reports about Chanel's drug use. The number of sources and their close relationships with Chanel make them credible. That Reverdy, a lover who in 1924 left Chanel citing her addiction as a reason, means that she functioned as an addict for almost 50 years.
Chanel's circle includes some of those in the Hemingway-Fitzgerald orbit, but, in this book, these American ex-pats hardly figure. There is only one mention of the Fitzgerald's, a passing reference at that.
This book covers one aspect of her life. Other biographies explore her career, style or different periods and single relationships. I would like to see one focus on the business. Chanel claims not to be a good businesswoman... despite her phenomenal success. Her contract on Chanel No. 5, seemed to be foolish and unnecessary, and putting Iribe in charge of renegotiation, more foolish yet. Far too many dresses and accessories were created to be the work of just one person. How was the firm run during her long absences? How did the Wertheimers wind up with not just the perfume, but the fashion house as well? The business end of the business remains a mystery to me.
Chaney helps you understand Chanel, sometimes through Chanel's very own words. Throughout the book there are revealing quotes about her loneliness and the need to compromise with men for their love. She seems to have understood herself and her times.
This is an excellent book and I highly recommend it for anyone interested in Chanel, fashion or this period. what most reviewers here have said - but it's the best book on Chanel I've read. It's full of information, easy to read, and it paints a picture of the deeply complex woman and her times. I recommend it totally.
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