Well... to be totally honest, I barely remembered any of these, even a day or two after reading them. If you're looking for a "worth-reading" list, here are the ones that managed to stand out.
"Brooklyn Is Everywhere", Jon Birdsall, Bon Appetit
To, again, be totally honest: I really only recall this piece because it's the first in the collection, and I thought it was a kind of sneeringly bougey way to open the book. Let Brooklyn be Brooklyn, and let it be inspirational to whomever it is, and stop trying to shoehorn everything remotely trendy onto the Brooklyn-Cool-O-Meter.
"On Chicken Tenders", Helen Rosner, Guernica
It's not splashy enough to be the opening article, but it's indicative of the direction I hoped more of these pieces would follow. If this was the caliber of both writing and substance throughout, I would have liked this whole collection a lot more.
"In Praise of Ugly Food", Kat Kinsman, seriouseats.com
"Some food isn't pretty and does not need to be." This early line in Kinsman's piece, defending the lackluster aesthetic of chicken and dumplings, sent me searching for a page I'd torn out of an issue of Food & Wine some time ago. I don't recall the article it preceded in the magazine, but I imagine it was full of food that was difficult to make pretty for the camera: "The Italians have an apt descriptor for a simple, crunchy-chewy hazelnut meringue cookie that tastes delicious but looks like something you'd scrape off your shoe after a visit to the dog park: brutti ma buoni, which means 'ugly but good'." This is a delightfully snarky rant against the Filtered Age of Instagram, wherein we spend more time judging things other people are doing/eating/sharing than devoting our own non-renewable resources to making/enjoying/celebrating elements of our own lives.
"How to Dupe a Moderately Ok Food Critic", Luke Tsai, East Bay Express
You know those long-winded jokes that take forever to tell and seem like they're going nowhere until either (a) they somehow wrap the loose ends together, so it makes sense but it's not really funny; or (b) the joke-teller snaps their fingers and says "the aristocrats" or some such and you're left wondering if you dozed off at some point or maybe don't know the definition of "aristocrat", but you at least understand they were just wasting time and possibly distracting you? This whole article felt like one of those jokes, except you knew all the way through that there was going to be the finger-snap at the end.
"Sorry, Blue Apron, the Joys of Cooking Can't Fit in a Box", Corby Kummer, The New Republic
This is like reading the antithesis of an infomercial. You know you don't actually need anything you see in an infomercial, and you probably already have multiple items that will accomplish the one thing that the infomercial item does; the sheer novelty is kind of the point.
"The Great Bourbon Taste Test", Wells Tower, Garden & Gun
I'm definitely not the originally intended audience for this piece, but I appreciate people who appreciate bourbon.
"The Servant Problem", Toni Tipton-Martin, The Jemima Code
I wonder how much more circulation this piece would have gotten if it had been published in, say, mid-May 2020. The intro paragraph concludes that "at last, the black cooks whose recipes have long fed America get their due respect". ...I wonder, too, if the writer of that sentence realized how congratulatory and dismissive it is.
"Chained to the Stove: What It's Really Like to Write a Cookbook", Jessica Battilana, seriouseats.com
If the title of this piece sounds like something you'd like to read, may I suggest pretty much anything by David Lebovitz instead.
"Ya-Ka-Mein: Old Sober", L. Kasimu Harris, Edible New Orleans
This might be the most disappointing piece in the entire collection. It reads somewhere between a cub reporter's freshman effort at Travel Food Writing and a diary stripped of the juicy parts that might make it interesting, if not palatable. It's about New Orleans! And Hangover Soup! Why on earth am I so bored?
"Dinner and Deception", Edward Frame, The New York Times
The editor's intro to this piece reads thus: "When NYC grad student Edward Frame's essay about his haute cuisine service stint appeared on the Times' op-ed page, Internet comment sections lit up... [but] the social media buzz missed the point... about the co-dependent dance between the waiter and the waited-on." The end of this piece reminded me sharply of the end of The Devil Wears Prada, when the heroine bails on not-Vogue-but-actually-yeah-definitely-Vogue to follow her dream of writing "real" literature, rolling her eyes at the drama and waste of high fashion... but financing that dream by hitting up consignment shops to sell all the posh gear she picked up during her haute couture stint. Frame's "essay" is full of brief anecdotes that are clearly meant to be shocking to the reader: sex in the bathrooms, secret codes among staff, drunk Wall Street bigwigs. But if there's a message in there about co-dependence, it's overshadowed by the reminiscences about perfecting details and helping others celebrate their perceived place on the socioeconomic food chain.
"Sonoko Dreams of Soba", Francis Lam, Saveur
Yes, the title of a direct riff on "Jiro Dreams of Sushi" - Lam says so, right before he says "that's how Japanese food is supposed to work", which seems to put a lot of pressure on cooking Japanese food but is actually pretty accurate: lose yourself in learning and perfecting the details of the building blocks, translate the small things into the way the larger world works. I always love Lam's writing style, but this piece in particular is a beautiful illustration of what he does well: tells you what he's going to tell you, then tells you, then translates all of that into a metaphor for how the world works.