The author Tom Chesshyre’s book “Ticket to Ride” is a refreshing and yet an informative work on the world of trains; appealing not just to lovers of trains but also to general readers who enjoy travel. He takes you on a worldwide journey aboard every type of rail ride including steam locomotives to bullet trains and introduces you to some colorful characters whom he meets while on the rails. Through the pages we embark on a memorable journey round the world from SriLanka to Iran via Crewe, the Australian outback and beyond. Here however I have chosen to review the first rail story on Crewe and then the amazing Trans- Siberian railway.
The author is not just travelling by train but he is on a mission. He wants to dig deeper and discover why people have a passion for train travel and why this form of getting from A to B is somehow more “real” , more calmer, less stressful and more illuminating as compared to other forms of travel. Paul Theroux in his book , “The Old Patagonian Express”, talks about taking a flight described as entering a “dingy fuselage” and how you end up counting the minutes till you make a safe landing. Perhaps according to the author, the reason for the recent bubble of interest in trains is “the tedium of driving along characterless motorways or flying between identikit airports in identikit planes.” The emphasis is on the resurgence of train travel, which the author wants to experience first-hand. With this purpose in mind he decides to become, what is called a “trainspotter, railway enthusiast or maybe a gricer”for a few days. He signs up with a company based in North Wales who offer a package especially for “rail holidays around the world”. In Crewe where he begins his journey across the world, the author chose this as his starting point not because you have renowned trainspotters there but because of its place in rail history of Britain. Moreover, it offered a convenient point of travel between Liverpool and Birmingham. According to the author you can spot a gricer a mile away and who would typically say, “ I’d go anywhere for a 37”. It is platform 5 of Crewe station England. The rails , “crackle, hiss, rumble and groan”and a sleek cherry-red train adorned with the message, “arrive awesome” emerges. This is the 17.05 Virgin Service to Manchester. This is an event that stirs up the entire platform. The train then moves to Manchester after kicking up activity in Crewe . Silence resumes. Next, there is an announcement on the concourse that there are three 37s coming in a moment and set for platform 3. The trainspotters come into their own. All hell breaks loose as they scurry off, clutching their cameras oblivious to everything else. The regular passengers look on with bewilderment as they make a spectacle of themselves. They snap away at the three locos, full of admiration. The locos are solidly built with navy blue bodies and bulbuous mustard yellow noses. When asked what they like most about trains, they say, “the smell of diesel, the sight of steam”. But at times, when asked about train travel, the common reply that one would get to hear is that “there is a romance about trains”. Or the other reason could even be that of a greener way of travel of sitting by the window seeing the world go by and listening to the constant clickety-clack motion of the train. The author then meets Mike Lenz, general manager at the Crewe Heritage Center who is doing a good job of keeping the interest alive in the growth and development of trains, by preserving old railway paraphernalia, shiny locos and carriages. But the matter that seems to be weighing on his mind is that he feels that the volunteers are in their forties and fifties; when the need of the hour is to get the younger generation interested in overhauling and operating the steam trains so that they don’t disappear. On his advice the author takes in a good specimen of an APT Prototype, BR Class 370 by the entrance to the heritage center, before checking into Crewe Arms Hotel. This hotel happens to be a favorite with hardcore rail enthusiasts who choose rooms facing the station so that they can indulge in extra spotting from the comfort of their rooms.
So much so for Crewe. Now onto the must-do Trans- Siberian railway.
The author approaches the Trans-Siberian railway from Helsinki by taking an overnight train with a first-class cabin to Moscow . He spends a day in Moscow sightseeing after which he takes the seven-night Trans-Siberian service (second class) touching Mongolia and then through Manchuria to Beijing. Of all train journeys this definitely occupies the topmost position. It takes you all the way across a continent, from east of Europe to the Far East. This stretch of service is called Tolstoy Night Train which is a ten hour Helsinki –Moscow service where also, the author feels the sleeper cabin’s cost is reasonable. He thus begins his journey in Helsinki’s famous art deco Central Railway Station, where he is met up with his Finnish contact Maria, who gives him a lowdown on the country’s architecture and history. The station itself is wonderful with grand arches, clusters of tubular lights, polished wood benches, columns cut with snake-like patterns and ticket desks with lampshades. After saying adieu to Maria, the author embarks on train number one of his two-train 6000 mile journey. The train is gray, shiny and modern with smart attendants or provodnistas by the doors. Coach number 11 is spotless, with burgundy carpets and other inventories that make up a first-class sleeper on this train. As you rumble along, you feel like you are on this journey first-hand. The author here describes the passing landscape that includes “glistening lakes, emerald fields…followed by silver birch forest with ethereal light filtering between wispy tree trunks.” The train track then starts to run parallel to the road for sometime as farmhouses, barns and arable fields come into view with some more of silverbirch and pine forests. The dining carriage where the author takes you is described as garish and ornate with pictures of Leo Tolstoy adorning the walls. The author samples sandwich and caviar and some Baltika beer from the generous collection of vodkas, brandies, bottles of champagne that was made available. The attendants were hospitable but with a no-nonsense attitude, mostly with curt “spasibas”. At the Finnish- Russian border there is the usual checking of passports, and the author is relieved that he is travelling not as a journalist but as a tourist to avoid unwanted attention to his travel plans. On entering Russia what should be more appropriate than opening the first page of Tolstoy’s “War and Peace”, the aim being to finish “the novel of all novels “ by Beijing. Morning brings one to Moscow at the Leningradsky terminal. The station is “cavernous”and confusing with all the Cyrillic signs. The author then makes his way to the Yaroslavsky terminal, built in the Russian Revival style which was the departure point of the Trans-Siberian railway. The author had 15 hours in all to kill in Moscow. The underground stations were another good “train reason” to take the Trans-Siberian Railway. The Yaroslavsky station was a key transit point in Russia and it had a “frontier feel” to it. Just as in China, the Trans-Siberian railway contributed to political instability and even fuelled the revolution. The author is travelling second-class and the entire journey to “Pekin” costs 515 pounds, one of the best travel bargains. This train takes you right upto Vladivostok covering 5,752 miles but the author had opted for the TransManchurian route which is one of the three distinct pathways to the east. He meets John from Kingston, London who takes tips on travel and expresses his intention of meeting backpack westerners like him. He is terrified of taking the flight to Beijing and would rather travel by train. Together, they rattle “onwards through the Russian taiga forest …deeper and deeper into the Siberian wilderness, into the coal-black night. “ The next stage is the Ule-Ude to Beijing, and after having fortified himself with a bowl of borscht and drink of kozel, the author braces himself to the next phase of his journey. There is a changing of bogie, or carriage if you like, just before the Chinese border, which would have been of interest to rail enthusiasts and also, the track was said to be noticeably smoother in China, a point of interest to trainspotters. You also switch to “Beijing Time” as you pass through time zones while on this journey. The Chinese scenario resembles mini Manhattans, factories and cooling towers. On arrival, the author comes across Chinese trainspotter taking pictures of the train who typically reels off train figures and statistics and rushes off to see another train, the ZI57 Express as it enters another platform. Eric Newby a travel writer describes this train as “a big, red train ride”, and which the author feels is just that. In the end you have reached the capital of China from Europe without leaving the ground.
In the final analysis, this book is not just for hardcore train lovers but an interesting travelogue and tells you about the class of people who would go to any length to gain information about this amazing form of travel, that is railways.