One gets the book due to a reassuring title - promising vegetarian, mostly South Indian food, that too light snacks - and the cover photograph. One has no clue what treat the book is, until beginning to read it.
The author could very well be a renowned, popular, celebrated writer, judging from what one reads. Writing about her parents, her early life, lives from Quetta to Tanjore, and so on, she brings a sense of a world of parallel lives to someone whose life hasn't exactly been mundane, at that!
By the time one reads her first recipe, one is so into reading, the snack is merely a stop, recipe read quickly to check on what one knows so far, and an eager pushing on to the next tale. And this continues, surprisingly. The very well known snacks, with slightly quirky individualized recipes notwithstanding, and mouth watering photographs, are a delight, but the autobiographical sketches accompanying them just as much and a tad more so, sort of like another exotic relish to accompany the treat - and that the author is teaching this to Boston, yet another added delight.
As one reads on one is startled to realise that the author is only a little younger than one's mother who grew up in Pune where the author went to school for a few years, and they could have met if their paths had any chances of crossing. At that, the author even had a close friend at school whose name seems to coincide with an adopted aunt who lived in Pune! Could it have been the same person? Doubt it, but only because it's very unlikely that someone from proper Pune society would be attending a convent school in military cantonement, meant for children of British.
And the parallels in this keep recurring. The author's early years of marriage, in late fifties to early sixties, being in Delhi - where we lived, except the author and her family were in the university area, where the couple taught, while we were across the town in South Delhi after initial years in West Delhi. Her children's age seems to match with younger children of my parents. Author travelled with family to California, where I taught much later, but I was in Southern California. Author now lives in Boston where I spent apex of formative years, in eighties, in academic life - her daughter's, she says, are in academia in Boston! Her other home was and is in Bangalore, and her in-laws were settled in Mysore where her husband grew up - one could go on!
Her recipes are an exhaustive list of the familiar mouth watering stuff that, as one reads them, one has a feeling of satiety. How about Indian homemade cool drinks, next?
Lovely photographs of delicious snacks.
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"Though the observance of Pound Day was meant to teach us the joys of giving and sharing, it turned out to be more of a competition among the students vying with one another to be noticed by their peers for their special donation. A bar of chocolate or a box of halwa was worthy of attention; a pound of rice was sneered at. As soon as we received the notice from the school requesting contributions for the Pound Day, Sarasa and I would start working on our parents to give us something other than rice. And so it was that I always contributed a ribboned box of a pound of Darjeeling tea, and Sarasa a pound of sugar. On the walk to school, there would be much discussion amongst the students about the food each one had brought. ‘What did you bring?’ was the question on everyone’s lips. Some seniors would try and exchange their modest contributions with younger students who had brought brightly packaged boxes of caramel toffee or imported canned food."
Sounds like the atmosphere usually created and encouraged by convent and other British schools system.
Author gives two recipes that are definitely not traditional or usual, anywhere.
One is gorgeous paratha which she tells you to gold into triangles and roll out maintaining the shape. This is done nowhere.
Pune and other Marathi homes regularly fold polie into triangle but roll it out to a disk as circular in circumference as it can get, usually the size of the pan. When done, it's folded back into the quarter that's triangle as per the author, for storage and serving convenience. It's never cooked with oil or ghee on pan.
North India regularly sautées paratha on pan, after a preliminary dry roast, but it's never folded into quarter that looks triangular, much less left as a triangle.
It's unclear if this triangle paratha from author was a southern young housewife's adaptation of her Quetta learning, or a British deformation of Indian cuisine.
Also, she gives a recipe that she calls Usal, a Marathi word, and she translates it as salad. It's incorrect in both ways. What does gives is, indeed, salad. Usal isn't a salad, it's well cooked sprouted beans or lentils of suitable variety, consumed as a gravy for rice or chapati.
Her reinterpretation of words and recipes reminds of Tamil customers at a Gujarati eatery who ask for Bombay idli. They mean dhokla. They refuse to learn words of other languages, forgetting that idli came from the other end of the peninsular India and Tamil homes had rebelled against it.
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A recipe she gives of a traditional drink made from raw mango, called Panhe in Marathi and Panhaa in Hindi where it's made, is named mango fool here by the author. It's not clear if she invented the name, but that seems less likely. Author seems again to use nomenclature of British Raj circles inherited in military.
The cream is definitely English or European addition, since mixing it in this is against not only every Indian instinct but expliamongst forbidden mixes in Aayurveda.
Cream, heavier the more, is producer of heat, hence for winter heavy dishes such as chholey and for desserts and so on.
Raw mango comes in early spring and summer, and this drink is for cooling; the mix with cream, or even milk, is simply unhealthy, just as contradictory as, say, a dinner of rice and yogurt would be in Boston winter in February with a heavy snowstorm raging.
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Author gives recipe gor Mysore Pak - the last word from Sanskrit connotes cooking - and while it's a rich, popular dessert, a softer version is far more ubiquitous, popular and available everywhere from Maharashtra to North India, called Besan Barfi in North India and Besan wadie in Maharashtra; alternately, rolled into balls instead of flat diamond shaped pieces, it's called Besan Laddou in North India and Besan Laadou in Maharashtra. The proportion is changed from more ghee in Mysore Pak to more Besan in the other, ubiquitous varieties.
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In describing significance of the festival of Deepavali or Diwali, she misses out on the most important part, which is worship at home (and in business offices) of Laxmi or Lakshmi, Goddess of Wealth, through most of North India and in Maharashtra.
Bengal however worships Kaalie at this occasion, while Lakshmi Poujaa in Bengal is on full moon day following Navaraatri, which is nine days of Goddess worship in most of North India and Maharashtra and celebrated as Durgaapoujaa in Bengal.
Gujarat and Bengal have public celebration during Navaraatri while rest have it at home, although a major part is women visiting neighbours, friends and relatives and being worshipped by each other as Daughters and manifestations of the Goddess.
All the three - Durgaapoujaa, Lakshmi Poujaa and Kaaliepoujaa - are public celebration in Bengal, along with Saraswatipoujaa at beginning of spring through India shortly after middle of January on fifth day of waning moon when later full moon would be in Regelus in Leo.
"What she considers limited to South, isn't. Narakaasuravadha celebration on Narakachaturdashie, day before no moon, is throughout India, an occasion for a thorough cleaning of home.
But again, repeatedly, she interprets Deepavali Celebrations as about victory; in fact Victory of Divine is celebrated at Vijayaadashamie, literally, Victory tenth, the finale of Navaraatri.
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Amazing, the food in Madras college mess included a Marathi home food item!
"PITLA, smooth and spicy chickpea flour snack, rich in protein and amazingly easy to whip up. Originally a savoury street food from Maharashtra, it has found its way to far-off destinations. I visited a women’s hostel in Trivandrum in the southern state of Kerala and one of the popular sell-out snacks in their canteen was ‘pitlo’!
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" ... Avarekai is a bean with a particularly rich and oily fragrance. Bangaloreans, Mysoreans and the people of Tamil Nadu love the flavour of this rich bean, but for many northerners it is an acquired smell. ... "
Here's the obvious - author knows North India, having lived not distanced from locals, but she knows nothing of Pune or Poona, it's people, or Maharashtra in general and Marathi people. This is so, despite her mentioning a close friend in school being from the community!
What she knows as Avarekai or Avarekalu is the greatest favorite of Marathi people, called either Waal generically, or Dalimbya for the delicate variety and Paavate for the robust one, in Konkan and rest of Maharashtra, respectively.
Marathi grocery stores sell it like any other beans, to be sprouted before shelling and then gentle cooking like any other Usal, while south India depends on the fresh harvest annually and consumes it for a short spell every year, bought at greengrocers.
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CONTENTS
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Introduction
My Parents and Siblings
Masala Vadai and Midwifery
A Victorian Meat Grinder in an Indian Vegetarian Kitchen In Somwar Peth, Poona, for Potato Bhaaji and Bhakri
The Impromptu Tea Party Aboard the Deccan Queen
Thayir Vadai and Idada with Lord Rama and Cinderella in Bombay
Pound Day at St Helena's School
Fun and Fasting with Annam Athai
Narayana's Saturday Night
Bajji Holi Feast at the Gol Bazaar
Orphanage in Jubbulpore
Appa's Retirement and the Move to Tanjore
Deepavali Celebrations in Tanjore
Krishnan Nair's Appams in Queen Mary’s College
The Mobile Canteen on the Madras Marina
Pudina Pidi Kozhukattai in Poonamallee
Delectable Delights from Palani’s Bakery
An Eligible Boy, Astrologers and Tiffin
The Farmers' Market in Tanjore
The Phone Call and Tiffin
Meeting at the Ramakrishna Lunch Home in Madras
The Wedding in Tanjore
Apachi Amma, Akki Roti and Mango Seekarane
Kamalu's Avarekai Adai
Gujarati Farsan at the Amins in Baroda
A Metate Comes in Handy in Berkeley
The AAA Meeting in La Jolla
Happy Hour at Stanford University
Of Birthdays and Snacks
Max Gluckman, Bombay Bonda and Shahi Tukda
Padma's Khara Obbattu with Pineapple Gojju
Paul Hockings and Potato Polee
The Return of the Native and Ragi Dosai
Pilgrimage and Tiffin
Vaara Shaapaadu with Vermicelli Upma
Dosai and Its Many Avatars
From Menlo Park to Cambridge, Massachusetts
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Introduction
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"Captain Thomas Williamson, in his The East India Vade-Mecum, describes ‘tiffin’ as a little avant dinner taken at 1.00 or 2.00 p.m., a time which remained unchanged right up until India’s independence from British rule. The word ‘tiffin’ itself is thought to be derived from ‘tiffing’, an eighteenth-century English slang term for ‘sipping’."
" ... Central Tiffin Room in Malleswaram, a suburb in north Bangalore, is low profile and a favourite haunt of the local denizens. ... "
"All the recipes contained in this book include the food I continue to cook in my kitchen in Boston. ... several Indian restaurants by the name ‘Tiffin’ have sprouted, in recent years, from London to Philadelphia."
"Rukmini Srinivas
"Boston and Bangalore"
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January 13, 2022 - January 14, 2022.
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My Parents and Siblings
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"Appa joined the Military Accounts Services in 1913 when he was 21 years old, and his first posting was to Quetta (in Pakistan today). He was married a couple of years later in 1915 to Sahayavalli, my Amma. From Quetta Appa was transferred to Karachi, where my eldest sister Kamala was born in 1921. In 1923, he was posted to Bangalore, where my brother Kannan, I and two of my younger sisters, Sarasa and Leelu, were born. After nine years in Bangalore (a city both Appa and Amma called home), in 1932, when I was five years old, Appa left the city for Poona, where we four sisters joined reputed convent schools."
" ... The reason for the change in schools was the fact that the tuition fees for Indian children in St Mary’s, a school started primarily for the children of British families stationed in India, was double of what the British paid, and Appa realized that he could ill afford it. ... "
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January 13, 2022 - January 14, 2022.
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(For the rest, see comments - goodreads isn't allowing space enough for reviews more than a few words.
Why not restrict to mere stars? )