Perfume: A Century of Scents

by Lizzie Ostrom

Signature scents and now-lost masterpieces; the visionaries who conceived them; the wild and wonderful campaigns that launched them; the women and men who wore them—every perfume has a tale to tell.

Join Lizzie Ostrom on an olfactory adventure as she explores the trends and crazes that have shaped the way we’ve spritzed. One hundred perfumes and scents in all their fragrant glory reveal a fascinating social history of the past century. From the belle epoque through the swinging sixties, to the naughty nineties and beyond, Ostrom brings intelligence and wit to this most ravishing of subjects.

There was the patriotic impact of English Lavender during World War I and perfumes that captured the Egyptomania of the 1920's. Estee Lauder created "Youth Dew" and with it, distilled the essence of 1950's suburbia. Patchouli Oil—the "anti-perfume" of the 1960s—was sure to keep money out of the hands of corporations and "the man." And who could forget the fervor created by the grunge androgyny of CK One? Scent is truly the passport to memory, making Perfume both a lush treat and an insightful examination of the twentieth century through the most mysterious of the five sense.

Genres: Nonfiction, History, Fashion, Historical, Reference, Adult

384 pages, Hardcover

First published October 22, 2015

About the author

If you were to go to my home and open a cupboard or drawer, you would probably find dozens of bottles of perfume waiting to fall out. As you might imagine, I’m a woman who, even now, have more fragrances than I could ever wear in a lifetime, keeps on buying them.

Five years ago, this hobby had nothing to do with my job. I was working in events PR promoting restaurants and hotels. Perfume was a thing on the side. I spent a lot of time thinking about it, but rather than defining it as a ‘thing’, it was more of a compulsion. It had been going on for years. Even as a teenager, in the heady days of dial-up internet, I’d drive my dad crazy, tying up the phoneline looking at perfume reviews.

In 2010, all this suddenly became useful when a friend told me about The Book Club, which was looking for live programming. Out of nowhere I had this idea to host an event about scent.

As someone who loves food, reading, drinking, and learning, I absolutely felt perfume fitted in with this landscape of discovery but it's often left out. I wanted to create an experience which made learning about scent fun, sociable and intelligent, and that spanned pop culture to high culture. Hosting it in a bar was much more inviting than going to a department store with all that pressure to buy.

I inveigled James Craven from London perfume shop Les Senteurs to co-host with me, and together we concocted a whistlestop tour through the twentieth century in perfume. We asked people to describe the mystery contents of some vials we handed out, which meant a lot of wine, a lot of spills, and most crucially, laughter – not least from my nom de plume, Odette Toilette, which is much more fun than my real name, Lizzie Ostrom.

That was meant to be a one-off but so many people came to the first event, I wanted to do more and so a regular series was born. Since then I have hosted perfume events on themes from the scents of outer space to the history of male fragrances from Rakes to Rambo, and Perfumes and Mythology.

I still get a thrill from sampling an unusual fragrance with a tantalising story, and it’s been so much fun bringing their stories, from the sublime to the everyday, to life through my book and my events.

Reviews

[Aoife Lennon · Rating 5 out of 5]

Well researched and fascinating book, very enjoyable. The downside is I want to get some of these perfumes, and that could prove tricky!

[Penny · Rating 5 out of 5]

An unexpected but completely well deserved 5 stars.
I really loved this very well written journey through the 20th century describing 100 of the most popular scents.
It brought back so many memories, made me laugh and taught me so much about ‘perfume’ in general.
I hadn’t realised it before, but with my pretty extensive perfume collection I am apparently a ‘fume head’!
I loved the description of many of the scents, one being described as ‘smelling of dolls heads’! Strangely I know exactly what she means.
My only complaint is that I would love to have seen some glossy coloured pictures of the perfume bottles.
The book cover is gorgeous though. A book that would make a fabulous gift to anyone who likes perfume and aftershave.

[Maudaevee · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this, I have always loved perfume but never really thought much about it, until I saw this book.

[Esther · Rating 2 out of 5]

Parts of this were really interesting and parts were annoying

[Rosemary · Rating 5 out of 5]

A fascinating and well written book. it might not hold that much of an interest for someone who knows a lot about the history of perfume, but I already knew a bit about several of the perfumes discussed and I still learnt a lot. The writing is very casual and playful in tone, but still backed up with a partial bibliography at the back.

[Christian West · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting concept, ten perfumes per decade for the 1900s. I don't know how I would have written to this concept, but I'm unsure that this is it. The writer has tried to evoke sensations from each fragrance by writing humorous stories of the scent, the advertising, the packaging or the time, but this is a bit hit and miss. Some scent stories are wonderful, others dull.
Overall an okay book, but not one I'd rush to read again.
Oh, and this book has the best thank you ever : "all those at libraries - especially the guy who didn't bat an eyelid when I accidentally ordered a load of porn". I do wonder what she was ordering/meant to be ordering.

[Оля · Rating 5 out of 5]

Нарешті перемогла прокляття не дочитувати нон-фікшн, яке тягнулося роками, і завдячую цьому виключно жартівливому письму Ліззі Остром.

[Elizabeth Wonderham · Rating 3 out of 5]

I like this book don't get me wrong, I just wish there were more perfumes in this book. In my personal opinion certain perfumes should of been in this book like, Shalimar by Guerlain 1925, and Oscar De La Renta perfume from 1977. I have been buying perfume since 2012, and since then, I have bought over 1,000 perfumes, and have smelled more than 1,500 perfumes. This book is called Perfume: A Century of Scents, and I fully believe those two perfumes should be in this book, and it's a shame that they aren't in this book. People who love perfume, or people who want to know more about perfume will enjoy this book. For me there is just too much missing to give this book more than a 3/5 stars. Yes the book is written well, for me it's missing the " depth " that I would expect a book like this to have. There just isn't enough perfumes in this book for me, especially for a Century. I won this book from Fragrantica back in February, and I'm glad I won this book, because since I read this book I have learned more about perfume, and I have bought more 80's perfumes. I will say if it was me who wrote this book, I would of had at least twenty perfumes for each decade, two perfumes for each year at the least.

[AURORA RU · Rating 3 out of 5]

Not really a book about Perfume. It is more like quick chronological review of the fragrance mass marketing/public relations/imagery. Nevertheless, if you hold an interest for fashion/beauty industry, those short anecdotes will amuse you. I would recommend this book for reading in train, at cafe etc. Otherwise: not a book for serious perfume-maniacs.

[Laura Zokirdzonova · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love this book! Interesting and informative. While you are reading you can feel an atmosphere of each chapter. Only one thing! Why there are no tester of all these perfumes included with book? When Im reading about perfume I really want to smell and understand the aroma! haha!

[Wednesday · Rating 5 out of 5]

Pretty good

[Julie Chamaa · Rating 4 out of 5]

A fun frolic through the 20th Century’s most beloved, or even loathed (think Poison)fragrances. Ostrom has done a nice job giving the reader a synopsis of each of the famous scents she has chosen to cover. As a perfume aficionado, and collector, l felt there were some gaps. Houbigant’s quelques fleur, for example, was overlooked. Launched in 1913 and still captivating today despite, l am sure, various changes to formula. Still, taste is subjective and ever more transient,especially in the case of olfaction.

The book’s strength is in its structure, being conceived of short ‘chapters’ of marvellous lost masterpieces and scintillating signature scents, including some men’s fragrances too. Yet, I was looking for the inclusion of some outliers of the 20th Century that were poised to become the ‘niche’ fragrances of today. I did not feel that Impulse or Lynx deserved to be included in this volume because they are glorified deodorants, at best.

Perhaps Ostrom may give us an updated edition to include the prominent signature scents of the 2000s onwards.

Well worth adding to one’s fragrance library. Recommended reading.

[Irene Lázaro · Rating 4 out of 5]

Me ha resultado muy interesante ver como el mundo de los perfumes se relaciona con los acontecimientos históricos. Algunas fragancias son totalmente fruto de su tiempo y otras perduran hasta nuestros días aunque se creasen en los años 30 (hola, Old Spice). La autora tiene una manera de escribir llena de humor y dinamismo pero a la hora de describir los olores es muy perceptiva y poética. Me ha enganchado más de lo que creía y desde luego he creado una lista de perfumes que quiero oler. Es una pena que un libro no pueda transmitir olores porque siento que faltaba ese componente.

[Helena · Rating 4 out of 5]

a description of 100 perfumes important in the perfume history of the 20th century - fun, somewhat educational, perhaps lost a bit due to my binge-reading. it doesn't necessarily approach perfumes from a technical standpoint but more so describes their social and cultural parameters, which i personally did not mind, even preferred. no expert, but i'd say it served as a good intro into the world of perfume history.

[Maura · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a fantastic starting point for anyone interested in perfume.

Chapters on each decade of the 20th century are subdivided into very short sections (1-3 pages) on individual perfumes that typified the trends of that decade.

[Ilze · Rating 5 out of 5]

Lielisks izziņas avots par 20. gadsimta smaržu vēsturi un to kā tā iet kopā ar modi, dīvesstilu un popkultūras fenomentiem.

[Lizzy · Rating 5 out of 5]

I can’t say enough good things about this book!!!

I learned SO MUCH about an industry I knew literally nothing about in these 300 pages and I had a damn good time doing it!!

Every chapter feels like a treat — a little spritz of whatever perfume it is.

It’s very funny — witty and cheeky, just delightful to read! You get the sense that the author was having a grand old time writing this, clacking away on her keyboard and laughing to herself.

It’s also profoundly interesting. Lizzie has a knack for picking the best details in a story and leaving out anything yawn-inducing.

The style of the book changes as you move through the decades (intentionally or not) from prose in the wrought style of the early decades, to a crisp clean style as we reach modernity. It’s subtle, but a cool trick, and gives the whole book a bit of interesting texture.

The little illustrations on each chapter are so wonderfully charming and delightful.

Really just an enjoyable read that is incredibly smart and unique. Now please excuse me while I go buy a copy for everyone I know.

[Amber · Rating 4 out of 5]

I received a copy of this book through Goodreads' First Reads program. This was an enlightening read- it's amazing just how much scent (and how it was sold and worn) can tell you about a partuclar culture or era. This book covers 100 years of perfumes and colognes, broken down into decades, with 10 representing each decade. The scents covered aren't all olfactory masterpieces or incomparable innovations. There are timeless classics, briefly popular oddities, incredibly expensive compositions, and drug store shelf regulars. In each case, the author talks about what the scents were, and what they meant to their era. The beauty-obsessed will enjoy this one, but others who appreciate studies of past society are likely to enjoy the insights and trivia related here.

[Katy Duncan · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is an informative introduction and history to many of the seminal fragrances of the last century. To really appreciate this book you probably have to be a perfume lover, as the author is enthusiastically. There is just enough interesting sociological information to add depth to the subject matter. If you have ever wondered about the stories behind the famous scent a generation of people adored, this book probably has the answers.

[Alicia · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is less about what perfumes smell like than the cultural and social impacts certain scents and fragrance houses have had down time. With 10 scents covered per decade, some classic, some tawdry memories, Lizzie Ostram takes you on a trip down memory lane. Well-researched and very witty. It will be shelved with my social research books as it's full of interesting little factoids. Highly recommended. Oh, and she does talk about the chemistry and scents as well! Now to look up her blog...

[Nikki · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is such an enjoyable book. It explores perfumes by the decade, giving each scent a context to consider it in which makes so much more sense than reading lists of perfumes. Also the writer is witty, engaging and so knowledgeable about perfumes that you cant help wanting to try them all, even the naff sounding ones!

[Deborah J · Rating 3 out of 5]

Loved it. Not only for perfume geeks. Of course, i read every word about every fragrance, including (or especially) those one is supposed to scorn, but you could just pick out the ones you loved/wanted/ remember on your mum. It’s inevitably cross-laced with cultural history - great to know how important perfume has become, and so trendy!

[Lisa · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book fascinated me. the only thing I wanted was to be in a perfume shop so I could smell the perfumes she talks about while I was reading about them.

REALLY short chapters -- so, you can read about a decade's worth of scents (10 in each decade) quickly OR even spend 3-5 minutes reading about one of the 10 from one of the decades.

[Lynne Fort · Rating 5 out of 5]

I'm not exactly a perfume aficionado, but this book is so well-written that it doesn't matter. I put in my to-read list on a whim and I'm so glad I did. It was a fun read, but I learned a lot too! And it included one of my mom's signature perfumes, and one of the first ones I ever wore, which brought some wonderful nostalgia. I recommend this to pretty much anyone.

[Rebecca · Rating 3 out of 5]

Too many of my favorites or perfumes I wanted to read about were left out. After finishing it I was let down that I didn't recognize more favorites, and I think the male fragrances were a waste of space in the book. None of them were that great or interesting.

[Kitty · Rating 4 out of 5]

I thought that there was nothing new I could read about perfume, but this was a nice slice of history around the times various scents were released. I just wish books about perfume came with smelling strips. Sigh. What can you do?

[Melissa Marie · Rating 4 out of 5]

There are beautiful, wonderfully creative descriptions of the fragrances throughout the past century. 4 stars because the book could get a little boring, however, it is because the book is more of an anthology than an actual story.

[Deborah Castle · Rating 4 out of 5]

Witty fun history, lots of social details in an engaging chatty style.
I could have done with more actual "smell" descriptions -I am interested in the science behind perfume.

[Peta · Rating 4 out of 5]

An enjoyable read about the iconic scents of each decade .

[Maggie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Delightful