In a thoroughly enjoyable reading experience you will learn all there is to know about fabric, cut, patterns, color, and the optimal care and clothing for men from head to toe. From the perfectly placed tie knot to custom-made shoes, from casual sweaters to a top hat, everything you need for the appropriate outfit is explained in detail.
Each of my brothers and I received a copy of this book for Christmas a few years ago. "Life-altering" is perhaps too strong a word, but it was instrumental in helping me make the long slow journey from adolescence to adulthood.
Here, you'll learn how to care for a shirt, how to properly pack a suit-jacket in a suitcase, how to properly was your hair - there's almost nothing left uncovered. I particularly enjoy the chapter about shoes.
It's not perfect; at times it can focus a bit too much on English fashion and style, giving it a conservative or even old-fashioned feel. However, it is full of so much good information that a crusty Anglo-centric emphasis can be forgiven. Taken as a guideline rather than a code of laws, you really won't find a better introduction to mens' fashion.
Tato kniha je opravdu nadčasová a o pánském stylu oblékání má opravdu hodně co říct. Hezké obrázky, příjemně se čte, čtenáře vzdělá v tématech látek a střihů či druhů obuvi.
Když ale člověk začne hledat něco konkrétního, zjistí, že je tahle kniha docela povrchní. Kapitola o holení vás odbyje popisem toho, jak vás oholí v salónu (kdo má čas se třikrát týdně někam objednávat?), tipů na vhodné kombinace barev a vzorů se nedočkáte skoro vůbec (jistě, záleží i na osobním vkusu a módní odvaze ale... Nějak se k tomu člověk dopracovat musí).
Takže... Příjemná záležitost k šálku čaje ze starého porcelánu, ale to je asi tak všechno.
Good referance for gentilmen fashion and dress code. But it should be updated.Because in 2013 has new dress codes' details. Jacket styles, New terms, etc... We know that Uk editors looking the world on a traditional vision.I think it should change.
I am attracted to classical menswear since early on. It even might have been started in primary school. Back then I would often go to the regional library to pick up books that I wanted to read and occasionally even read. There were some books that I picked up quite often, this was one of them. Now years later I started my sartorial journey, trusting that my grow has stopped. So I was amazed that back at the library of my childhood, this book was out to sell.
Now going throw the pages I find some things that I had to pay money on to learn through experience. On one hand I am quite happy to start my journey with an already quite large knowledge of the classical style, on the other hand, rules such as in this book often suit only those you already have the complete wardrobe and give mainly directions how this wardrobe might look like. The book itself is quite conservative and almost like caricature to read today. Many rules were probably outdated already at the time and descriptions on what groups of people wear what, whether artists or Americans often seems to be out of a cartoon. However this comments are sometimes not without the irony that you find in some nationalism of the 19. or early 20. century and one must appreciate that Roetzel gets the tendencies right if he makes prognoses. So should you read this book: Probably yes, since it is really a good encyclopedia. You probably have heard of the Picasso-quote Picasso: “Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist” and this is exactly how to read this book. The inventions from rule-breaking the Italian brought into mensstyle are even to this day from an appreciation of the british roots of the style. The degeneration of style is not only apparent in the fact that we have replaced the trench coat with the plastic poncho, but also if you look in the parliaments. The epidemic of casualization is troublesome. Politicians are throwing away the ties, wearing sloppy suits and sometimes it might even seem their project is too look not too good. However it is an interesting insight that in all they're trying to wear casual-outfits they don't know how. So for example you see them with the same dress shirts that were invented for wearing ties or bowties and nobody seems to get the idea to choose a bottom-down-collar or an Cooper-collar, more casual collars that are suitable to wear without a tie. They probably would if they read Roetzel. If you look at mid-century politicians even from America, they known how to dress down. Now this seems like a lost art. Instead people wear dress-shirt as a simple reminder that they dress according to the formal situation. But without fitting suit, without tie, without style this is just a reminder: the uncanny valley of style. This is sad since buying high-quality items is easier than ever. You can find even Luxury-suits like Brioni or Kiton suits under 200 Euro if you search patient. We won this whole new way of shopping that is if I am not missing something no topic of Roetzels book.
And there is so much values in a proper classical wardrobe. The value of beauty is only the most obvious, but also craftsmanship, taste, sustainability. Because yes a good suit can be worn for years like a good shoe. A good shoe can with good care worn as long that the cost per wear is under the costs of a fast-fashion one. These are values we should reconquer today. We need them to answer the climate crisis. And to the left-wing people: The suit is not a sign of capitalism, a good suit was largely egalitarian for a long time, such look to Italy, it was a investion like a good bike today. Capitalism replaced it with fast-fashion. Bring the suit back. bring back the beauty and craftsmanship. Read Roetzel to learn it.
There are far too many guides to men's style out there that have no business being published, much less read. Roetzel's book is a bit dated in 2023, but it's a testament to his taste and good sense that much of the clothes shown look just as good today as they did in the late '90s. His recommendations always lean toward the classic and the traditional, but despite that (and the use of the word "gentleman," usually a red flag) the book is fun and not focused on pretending to be something you're not. Casual looks are well-represented along with the usual formal ones, and there's a wealth of useful knowledge about color and fabric pairings and little details about the wear and history of common items. The section on packing is especially good! Alan Flusser is all well and good, but this is really the one "how-to" book for any menswear enthusiast.
Un big black book de saber usar textiles y de apariencia. Es un clásico insuperable pues incluye al rey del estilo. El duque de Windsor, cuyas ideas de vanguardia abrieron el camino que hoy en día sigue la moda del hombre.
Der ideale Ratgeber für alle Kleidungs- und Stilfragen. Kann ich jedem nur empfehlen, der sich mit Anzügen, Krawatten & Co. auseinandersetzen muss oder will.
I love this book. It has great explanations on the different types of shoes, shirt collars and accessories. A great friend introduced me to this book, so it holds a special meaning for me.