Engagingly written travel essay/foodie book on Spain, second in the _Roads & Kingdoms_ series by Matt Goulding. The first installment was on the foods of Japan and though a few things are mentioned about that first book very early on in _Grape, Olive, Pig_, it isn’t necessary to have read it.
It is an enthusiastically written, the author traveling all through the country sampling Spanish cuisine, everywhere from the trendiest restaurants of Madrid and Barcelona all the way to people’s homes in very rural Spain. A bit autobiographical too, as the author talks about how he came to love Spain and see it as his adopted home (his wife Laura is a Catalan woman).
Chapter 1 focused on Barcelona and was the most autobiographical of the chapters. We see one of the most famous restaurants in the world at that time (El Bulli), tour Barcelona food markets (the Boqueria), and learn some basics about Spanish cuisine. Chapter 2, set in Salamanca, the star is jamón, Spain’s famed dry-cured ham, the author discussing the historic importance of pork in Spanish cuisine (with its roots in assimilation of Jews and Muslims in Spain), how jamón is made, and its various uses. Chapter 3 is in Valenica and is all about paella. A fascinating chapter, the author discussed how paella is both not a national dish (it is thoroughly Valencian and one of a number of rice dishes from the region) and yet, is, as it is a microcosm of Spain, with Roman olive oil, New World tomatoes, and Moorish vegetables and rice. The author discussed traditional ingredients (which include rabbits and snails) and the three Spanish rice varietals used in the dish. Chapter 4 is the Basque food scene and a discussion of northern Spanish foods such as aged beef and baby eels. It also covers more of the author’s life and how for a time he was a chef. Chapter 5 is in Cadiz, a city in Andalusia, in southern Spain, and is all about the Spanish bluefin tuna fishery, covering everything from its ancient Phoenician routes all the way to a fascinating coverage of “tunanomics” and the history of how bluefin tuna went from being really cheap food fish to highly sought after by Japanese buyers to the crash in the tuna fishery. Really enjoyed the coverage of very traditional methods of tuna harvesting. Chapter 6 is the food in Asturias in northern Spain, visits cheese caves, and spends a lot of time with famed Spanish chef José Andrés. Chapter 7 was on Galicia, namely their seafood, and of that, most especially the percebes, the goose neck barnacles that are a prized delicacy, with the author spending time with a group of sisters who in a male-dominated field excel at the dangerous job of percebes harvesting. Chapter 8 was on the food scene in Madrid, including coverage of its traditional chickpea soup known as cocido and the “arm race of innovation” between various trendy Madrid restaurants, some of it excellent “stoner food with a PhD” and quite tasty and creative, others fun to look at maybe but all “smoke and mirrors” as too much attention is spent on making it look hip and Instagram worthy but not necessarily even edible. Chapter 9 is on Granada, shepherd cuisine, which is often poverty cuisine, simple but hearty fare that also apparently leads to very long lives. Interesting coverage of people who dwell in caves in the region as well as a bit on the Spanish Civil War.
Though each chapter had a central focus, many closed with some short interesting sidebars on other regional delicacies. Chapter 3 for instance was all about paella, but the very end had a bit on churros (served with chocolate, never cinnamon, and were a breakfast and snack item, not a dessert) while chapter 5 tuna was the star but closed with a bit on the three traditional Andalusian cold soups, gazpacho, ajoblanco, and salmorejo.
The writing was engaging and evocative and made pretty much every food in it sound delicious. I liked how the author took time to show how the various foods reveal things about Spanish history and culture, about that region, and showed overall trends in Spanish cuisine such as a having the main ingredient be the star and often only simply seasoned, not covered in sauces and spices (especially seafood might be little more than salt and olive oil, not even lemon or black pepper). Though food was the star, the author spent time with a number of people in Spain, from famed local chefs fixing paella in Valencia to the last of the traditional shepherds around Granada.