Modern Mountaineering on Alpine Rock, Snow, and Ice If your experience as a backpacker or rock climber is drawing you higher; if the cold, remote alpine environment calls you nearer, this book is for you. The Mountaineering Handbook will teach you the skills that will take you to the top. Even if you’re already an experienced mountaineer, you’ll find detailed descriptions of the newest and most effective techniques to refine and organize your methods and equipment. The Mountaineering Handbook isn't mired in outdated traditionalism; its new-school techniques are safer, more effective, and more fun for mountaineers at every level. With constant emphasis on light, fast, and efficient mountaineering, Craig Connally shows you how
This volume, unlike FOTH, is unburdened and littered with a lot of personal opinion...but that's what makes it valuable.
It's a realistic and modern view of mountaineering. Connaly's writing style is annoying and his attitude is often bothersome, but it's still a good book for some theory that's put in more life-like situations.
Another important thing to note about this book is that it's written for a very specific kind of mountaineering -- namely walking up a mountain. Don't expect a lot of information that will apply to technical alpinists, but it does cover what happens the majority of the time spent on a mountain -- walking, snow travel, and glacier travel.
There are some good, practical applications of old theories in the book. But take them with a grain of salt. Some of his opinions are just that, and in one case he even uses seemingly false information to back it up.
(If you must know, he's a big proponent of bowlines over figure eights -- so much that he advises their uses almost exclusively over the latter. He claims a bowline is easier to inspect and is a stronger knot. I have heard the opposite of this from virtually every other source I've come across. Sure, a bowline isn't susceptible to ring loading, but appropriate use of figure eights won't be situations where ring loading can occur. And in straight pull-strength, figure eight wins.)
...I'm editing because I didn't want to end this in a bad note. I definitely recommend the book.
Connally is good about suggesting realistic situations where Technique/Equipment A is better over option B, and I really like that. Books like FOTH just give you the information but rarely give it contextual to practical application.
It also has a lot of good techniques that other texts just completely fail to review, despite their frequent application in the mountains. A great example: how to clove hitch a carabiner that's already clipped. That is some shit you should definitely know, but I guess most books leave you to figure it out on your own.
Ok - I don't typically review textbooks, but this is worth mentioning. This is the "other" mountaineering textbook and the author takes great pains to prove himself right and call all other approaches to climbing old school and outdated. While I don't agree with everything he says, oddly, this asshole approach makes some of the safety concepts all that more memorable. Connally bothers to explain some of the why of techniques. Perhaps if other textbook authors had such large personalities - good or bad - I'd learn more.
Much more readable than "Freedom of the Hills", but full of personal opinion of the author. He is an Engineeier and we all know how those guys get set on what they consider the right way to do something. Some of this is good and some sounds dangerous. The work is approachable to the general reader except for more techinical chapters involving various rope techniques. Would be a good overview for someone considering getting into mountaineering, but a lot of these skills require practice in the field to master. I definitely learned a few things here.