The Social Life of Kimono: Japanese Fashion Past and Present

by Sheila Cliffe, Joanne B. Eicher (Editor)

The kimono is an iconic garment with a history as rich and colourful as the textiles from which it is crafted. Deeply associated with Japanese culture both past and present, it has often been thought of as a highly gendered, rigidly traditional and unchanging national costume. This book challenges that perception, revealing the nuanced meanings and messages behind the kimono from the point of view of its wearers and producers, many of whom – both men and women – see the garment as a vehicle for self-expression. Taking a material culture approach, The Social Life of Kimono is the first study to combine the history of the kimono as a fashionable garment with an in-depth exploration of its multifaceted role today on both the street and the catwalk. Through case studies covering historical advertising campaigns, fashion magazines, interviews with contemporary kimono designers, large scale and small craft producers, and consumers who choose to wear them, The Social Life of Kimono gives a unique insight into making and meaning of this complex garment.

Genres: Japan, Fashion, Nonfiction, Travel, Academic, Japanese Literature, History

256 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2017

Reviews

[Bookworm]

I like microhistories (I think that's what they're called?) of stuff/concepts/companies, etc. and this was no exception. Never been to Japan, don't know much about kimono so this seemed like an excellent pickup and I was excited to see the library finally got it in stock. Author Cliffe takes the reader though the history of kimono. Everything from its role in history to how it can be used as a form of fashion and/or self-expression and more.

That's really it. Unfortunately I found the book to be really dry and academic with a lot of citations (which is good for research and shows the work!) but it just felt very boring to read. It's a pity because it seemed like such an interesting topic to read about but in execution it wasn't really. The pictures are gorgeous but I wish there had been more detailed illustrations of (for example) the structure and parts of the kimono for a better understanding of how it's worn, how one dresses, etc.

Also as noted in another review, the author doesn't really talk about cultural appropriation and so it just felt like there's a bit of skepticism warranted. Although the author has clearly done extensive research there were still a couple of flags that made me hesitant. She is an outsider (originally from the UK) and notes in the introduction that there were people who didn't want to talk to her or have their names attached to the text. She admits to focusing on a particular area of Japan.

I suppose in retrospect I didn't understand that this book wasn't quite what I thought I was going to get: more of the history, and the impact in the political/societal sphere rather than as fashion. There's a close relation and many points of intersection but maybe it just wasn't what I was looking for. For the right person, though, I can see how someone would get a lot out of this book.

I borrowed from the library and resisted buying it. That was best for me but for someone who has an interest in kimono and the topic this would be a good purchase for reference. Recommend finding it cheap and/or trying to find a copy to browse through if you're not sure if you want to invest in it.

[Ariane]

Absolutely loved this book and learned a lot from it.
Finally, an English language book explaining the rich history of the kimono and it's evolution. The first chapter is dedicated to discussing and explaining the author's view of kimono as fashion (hence the title) rather than just a traditional garment, but this is the only theoretical portion of this book.
Two thirds of the book are interviews with people involved in the making and marketing process of kimono, and with people inside and outside Japan who wear kimono on a regular basis. Very interesting and inspiring!

[Sarah (TheLibrarysKeeper)]

This book was recommended by an Instagramer that I have followed for years. I love seeing her updates so when she recommended this I got on the list at my library for it.
What I enjoyed the most was the style it was written in. It’s a very academic book and while I know that can be dry for some people - I enjoy the research that goes into books like this. The colour photography was beautiful and a nice touch so you can visualize what the author is discussing. I highly recommend this book for anyone looking to learn more about the origins of kimono and it’s social and cultural history.

[Claire]

I wish I had enjoyed this more but I found this very text booky. I enjoyed the section where people who wear kimono talked about their love of kimono. I have only worn kimono a few times and found it to be extremely comfortable and great for my back/posture. And it's lovely to see a few of the Japanese wearers say the same thing. I will say the images throughout the book are stunning.

[Sarah Lou]

I enjoyed some of the discussions in this book about kimono as fashion and the everyday wearers that the "kimono police" would go after; actually being the ones to take kimono wearing back to its roots, as a means of expression.