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Death Valley in '49: An Autobiography of a Pioneer Who Survived the California Desert

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A survivor’s true account of death, despair, and heroism in Death Valley in the heat of the California Gold Rush.

At the height of the California gold rush in 1849, a wagon train of men, women, children, and their animals stumbled into a 130-mile-long valley in the Mojave Desert while they were looking for a shortcut to the California coast. What ensued was an ordeal that divided the camp into remnants and struck them with hunger, thirst, and a terrible sense of being lost beyond hope—until a twenty-nine-year-old hero volunteered to cross the desert to get help.

This young hero, William Lewis Manly, was one of the survivors of the tragedy, and he lived to tell the tale forty-five years later in this gripping autobiography, first published in 1894. In a time of unmarked frontiers and wilderness, Manly lived the true life of a pioneer. After being hit by gold rush fever Manly joined the fateful wagon train that would get swallowed up by the barren, arid, hostile valley with its dry and waterless terrain, unearthly surface of white salts, and overwhelming heat. Assaulted and devastated by the elements, members of the camp killed their emaciated oxen for food, ran out of water, split up, and lost and buried their own kind who perished. When Manly’s remaining band of ten came across a rare water hole, he and a companion, John Rogers, left the rest by the water and crossed the treacherous Panamint Mountains and Mojave Desert by themselves in search for rescue. In a true act of heroism against all odds, the two finally returned twenty-five days later with help, rescuing their compatriots, including four children, even when it seemed all hope was lost.

Told at the end of the nineteenth century, Manly’s compelling and stirring account brings alive to modern-day readers the unimaginable hardships of America’s brave pioneers, and a chapter in Californian history that should not be forgotten.

119 pages, Kindle Edition

First published July 1, 1852

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About the author

William Lewis Manly

14 books3 followers
William Lewis Manly (April 6, 1820 – February 5, 1903) born near St. Albans, Vermont, the son of Ebenezer Manly and Phoebe (Calkins) Manly. His family relocated to Ohio when he was age nine.

As an adult he became an American pioneer heading to Michigan (prior to statehood), then went fur trapping in Wisconsin, Ohio, and then the Dakota Territories. In the 1830's-40's he began as a guide for westward bound caravans, then as a seeker of gold (the 1849 California Gold Rush), and then became a farmer and writer in his later years.

In 1859 he settled in Lodi, California and purchased farmland. In 1862, at the age of 42, Manly married Mary Jane Woods of Lodi. He died in 1903 in Lodi.

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5 stars
221 (49%)
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146 (32%)
3 stars
58 (12%)
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17 (3%)
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 49 reviews
Profile Image for Lorena.
Author 10 books502 followers
June 7, 2015
I've read several first-person accounts of Euro-Americans moving west, but this epic tops them all. The author's honorable sensibilities and keen powers of observation and description allowed me to rest in his very capable hands as he rolled out the strenuous adventures that took him from his teenage years (when he left home to become a fur trader) to his later walk across the Mojave Desert on the way to California. His detailed descriptions of the country, trapping techniques, animal life, surprisingly thin sightings of indigenous peoples, and the quickly growing expertise that made him a guide for others are so compelling and interesting to read.

Once he sets out with a large wagon train for the California gold fields the book really takes off and becomes a true epic journey of survival. As a Euro-American he saw many things, including Death Valley for the first time, and claims that it got its name from the journey described in this book. As he wrote the book somewhat later than the events described, he was able to name places he saw that had no names when he saw them. The brute strength it took to survive that journey show us up to be comparative weaklings! Imagine having to kill and butcher buffalo and oxen on the go, walking up to 50 or 60 miles in a day, climbing mountains and precipices just to get an idea of where you were headed, and then coming back down to continue your journey. Manly crossed the Mojave desert three times, mostly on foot, in an attempt to rescue the small party of people, including women and children, that could not go on without assistance. He was continuously engaged in managing every aspect of the journey, including sewing moccasins for the party and for all the animals who were cutting their feet on the sharp desert rocks.

You will love the story of the scrawny little mule he bought, and how it masterfully survived every challenge thrown across its path!

It is often said that truth is more compelling than fiction, and this book is a perfect example of that proposition.
Profile Image for David Allen Hines.
418 reviews56 followers
July 26, 2021
I am an inveterate reader and over the last 45 years I have read literally thousands of books. Accordingly, after all this experience reading, it takes quite a book to make me stop dead and say "Damn that's a good book!" Well Death Valley in '49 is a book that is so good that was my reaction precisely. All the more amazing is this book was published in 1894! My edition was reprinted exactly as it was published in 1894 as part of the 1983 hardcover Time-Life Books series "Classics of the Old West" not to be confused with the much better known Time-Life series "The Old West." The "Classics" series reprinted about 2 dozen old west books from the 1800s exactly as they were printed.

Manly's book shows that even for 1894 it must have been printed by a discount publisher! There are numerous instances of mis-spelled words, missing punctuation, even letters printed backwards to an extent not seen even in other original books of the 1890s I have read but to me that was part of the charm and originality of this book.

Manly put simply was an excellet writer. While much of his book focuses on a wagon train he was involved with that made the hideous mistake of taking a shortcut through Death Valley enroute to California, he makes it also autobiographical, talking about his youth in the East, adding in some stories from other travelers that interacted with his wagon train and stuggles and his travels after surviving Death Valley.

Even though he wrote in the 1800s his language is not stilted nor archaic and is in a wonderful conversational tone. I would guess most readers would never believe this book was written in 1894! Despite not being a professional writer, Manly had a great gift, few writers, professional or amatuer have, and that is to write in a way that makes the reader able to envision and experience each scene and happening. I was utterly transfixed by the story and given how many books I have read that is an uncommon experience for me these days!

Manly clearly is being honest about all he writes. He doesn't seem to exaggerate at all and in several instances when desperation and suffering became too bad, he chose to not write about it, and that is the hallmark of honesty. He doesn't gloss over the mistakes or horrors, but clearly does not exaggerate them for effect like some writers do.

Because this book was written in the 1890s it conveys information on how life really was when Manly grew up the East, and the incredible toughness and intrepidness of the early California pioneers in an honest and under-stated matter of fact way that no historian today could ever write. Manly does not write to exaggerate or boast; he writes in a way that is simply captivatingly descriptive while almost expecting the reader to understand because in the 1890s there were still lots of the early pioneers still around and these events we now see as exceptional and extraordinary were known by most people.

If you want to read a realistic, highly readable account of the pioneering of California, written by someone who lived it and who skillfully wrote about it, this is your book. This book no historian could ever write, and every reader will enjoy and learn from. Highly recommended and I am now looking forward to reading other books in the Classics of the Old West series and I am glad I was able to purchase the entire set of these high quality leatherbound gilded page books from a used book dealer at an affordable price!



24 reviews
April 3, 2024
Skip the second half (3.5⭐️)
Profile Image for Timothy Scott.
Author 5 books8 followers
May 1, 2013
As a book to research the time period, it was both an enjoyable read and informative. The longest stretch of reading, of course, delves into the author's experience in traveling to California through Death Valley. Needless to say, it's a journey fraught with danger and death, but is also revealing about the character of men in such circumstances and their admirable survival skills (and stamina!).

The author is commended for remaining humble and straightforward in his descriptions of events, and his character comes through in his writing and his actions during this journey. William Manly is someone I'd liked to have met! The writing can also be quite dry, as Manly recollects nearly everything about his adventure and leaves little detail out. His narrative also jumps around a bit, particularly when he reflects on friends and acquaintances he met.

Maybe because I'm writing a book about the gold rush, but I found his post-Death Valley journey into California and experience there to be fascinating. I grew up in Cali, so to hear first-hand accounts of the state during that time was really enjoyable as he traveled from the gold mines to Sacramento, San Francisco, and even Monterey. He even gets into the details of the construction of a long-tom, and notable people that populated the mining towns and specific incidents that paints a vivid picture of life during that time.

If you want an unvarnished look at this period of history, look no further than Manly's experience on the trail and in California.
Profile Image for Sharon.
357 reviews7 followers
October 22, 2014
An excellent account of the group of Americans who left their homes to seek their fortunes in the California gold mines in 1849. The author, who was 28 at the time, was among those who decided to take a short cut through Death Valley in order to avoid getting caught in the Sierra Nevada's during a snowstorm. The unfortunate experience of the Donner party three years prior was widely known. They could not afford to spend the winter in Salt Lake City, because there were no jobs to be had. So they took a chance on a new route through the southern part of the state, where they were told there was no danger of snowfall. If only they had sufficient water and food, they might have been able to withstand the extreme landscape and weather. This book is essential reading for anyone who wants to understand what the early pioneers went through to settle California. There is no substitute for a memoir written by someone who was actually there. I recall reading James Riley's "Authentic Narrative of the Loss of the American Brig 'Commerce,' with similar results. It is not a novel. It could probably have benefited from some quality editing. But the first person narrative is a superlative way to read history.
Profile Image for John.
326 reviews4 followers
October 17, 2016
I was kind of surprised that this book only has a few reviews. The nineteenth century is one of my favorite historical periods. Before the railroads and the telegraph, the world moved at the speed of a horse. In the case of Manly, his average speed from Salt Lake City to the gold fields in 1849 was more likely that of a man walking. In his wagon train, all the human traits of goodness, self sacrifice, selfishness and fear became daily companions as the men, women and children became trapped in a desert terrain with no forgiveness for human frailty.

Manly comes across as a hero with a depth of character as he first saves himself and then returns to save those less strong. Following that beginning, the book traces his work in the gold fields and his many skills that are lost on us today in our life of ever increasing specialization. His eyes of life in early California are worth the read. He seems far more literate that his background would suggest.
295 reviews
September 16, 2020
The main title of this book should be "An Autobiography of a Pioneer" because that is indeed what it is. A proper sub-title would then be "One Who Survived Death Valley and the California Desert in '49." Of the seventeen chapters, only Chapters IX thru XI and XIII are directly involved with the tragic Death Valley crossing and the author's heroic triple crossing to rescue his fellow travelers including some women and children. The earlier chapters are typical of a biography, but the author writes well enough that the reading was enjoyable -- even the young adult years leading up to the time of "gold fever." The other chapters tell some interesting and at times exciting stories about acquaintances, shared with the author when personal life paths crossed, but finally about the travels and experiences of the author's adult life. Being somewhat familiar with Central and Southern California made the book more meaningful to me, but still I often referred to various maps to get some idea of where the story occurred. There is very informative information about the reality of California gold prospecting and mining. The transition from the Mexican/Spanish California into the California we know became a little more clear. The author's later life in the Los Angeles area -- especially traveling to the Midwest by way of the Panama Isthmus, Cuba, and New Orleans -- was educational and most interesting -- even a bit exciting at times. Everyone experiences a lifetime of change in the world, and the author's careful journal keeping, and documenting was a fascinating learning experience.
Profile Image for Caro.
1,519 reviews
February 21, 2013
A bit rambling, but fascinating. Was particularly struck by the author's resourcefulness. What, your boat is irretrievably stuck on the rocks in a narrow canyon? Just wade downstream until you come to a couple of trees, and make a new boat! The Death Valley trip - the reason I read this - is harrowing. Imagine being so thirsty that you can't even swallow food. Hope our experience is less hazardous...
1,308 reviews
December 26, 2018
This was a very interesting read, and Manly does a great job recounting his experiences. I'm going to just give a very quick summary because in no way can I adequately recount his story. I will say (and I'm sure I'll say it again at the end) that the one issue I had with this book was the lack of maps. For the most part, it was not feasible for me to pull up a map and try and track the route. It really needs that visual to help the reader understand where he is and where he's going. I would ALMOST not recommend the book for that reason. But his story really is quite fascinating.

William L. Manly was born in Vermont in 1820. When he was nine, people were talking about the farm land in the midwest, so his uncle went ahead aiming for Ohio. He went with him. They ended up in Michigan (detroit land) and his parents soon followed. He lived there til he was about 19 or 20 years old then started wandering the land doing odd jobs and ended up in Wisconsin as a trapper/hunter. he did that for a year or two (sounded really really cold in the winter) and went home. Heard about the gold mines in California and decided to give it a shot.

He and Mr A Bennet (a man he'd live with during the winter) decided to join forces and go together. They had a seperate start and Manly spent the first part of the trip trying to find him (there were more than one possible route to take). Eventually they meet up.

So this part of the story is really quite interesting. (actually, his entire life is fascinating) But reading about the wagons and the travel to get to California. In my head I just picture kind of a trail version of Rt 66... an obvious 'road'. And while it did sound like there was a more established route, during the winter it wasn't passable. So a major portion of the caravan choose to try the southern route. On the southern route there was a supposed cut through that would save 500 miles and again another group decided to try for it. And found themselves in Death Valley.

In retrospect, I'm sure it's an obvious (we should have done this, or shouldn't have done that) but it does surprise me that there weren't scouts going ahead constantly to check the route. Because what really surprises me is how they got to a point where they just kept going, and it really wasn't mentioned that they should turn back around. But imagine taking all your prized possessions to start a new life in California and basically abandoning everything except the clothes on your back just to survive. If I remember correctly, it took them 4 months to get out of death valley. By the time they made it out, the people who had waited out winter and took the known route were already there (with all their stuff). But what was even sadder were how many people didn't survive Death Valley.

I should mention, that the author claims that his group were the ones who named the valley. Things that stuck out to me were killing the oxen every few days for food and then using their hide for shoes. And that they'd even need to cover the oxen's hooves as well. I found that interesting. Also that they saw NO wildlife. Didn't mention bugs, snakes, rodents.... nothing. I found that surprising.

So Manly and another guy named Rogers left the group (there were women and children) to find a way out. It took them weeks but they found it. He mentioned the San Fernando Mission and I just happened to have visited there a couple months ago so that was pretty awesome. The land he describes around the mission is totally different now though! Manly and Rogers got food and water and supplies from the kind people (I believe they were Mexicans) and went back for the group and were able to lead them out. It took them 12 months to get to California.

Once in California Manly seemed to jump all over the place. He did mining and made some money and then went back to Michigan via boat to Panama, then over land, then up the Mississippi. But he found himself stir crazy in Michigan so went back to California (via the water route again). And ended up staying there and making California home (though never seemed to stop wandering). He also mentions a wife ONCE in passing in the book, and never again. And I'd be curious where she entered the picture, but sadly that story was not included.

The story includes the Jayhawkers, another group that was traveling sorta with them and also found themselves trapped in Death Valley. Manly recounts a version of their story, which was very similar to his own, and was also quite interesting to read about. And apparently, the descendants of the Jayhawkers get together once a year on February 4th; the day they escaped Death Valley, to talk and reminisce.

A great, interesting story. Looking forward to hiking Death Valley... just need to get a few maps first.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Profile Image for James (JD) Dittes.
798 reviews33 followers
June 25, 2017
Crossing Death Valley seemed like a good idea at the time. The "emirgrants" had arrived in Salt Lake City too late in 1849 to take the traditional route over the Sierra-Nevada Mountains. And the leader of the wagon train proposed to travel all the way down to the Colorado River and then across the Mohave Desert to Los Angeles. Death Valley was a shortcut--one that was taken by William L. Manly and the Bennett Party, along with a party who called themselves "Jayhawkers."

The journey was no short cut. It was a death trap. Stranded at Furnace Creek, Manly and another young pioneer explored their way out of the valley, later returning with help to the pioneers who had been stranded in the valley.

The first half of this book recounts Manly's life and his experience venturing out as a 49er and his time in Death Valley. The 100 pages that follow include recollections from others of his party on how they had gotten to California--the most interesting of which comes from one of the Jayhawkers who, if anything, courted more danger and faced greater struggles than Manly and his party.

The final 70 pages or so recount Manly's time as a gold miner and his eventual settlement near San Jose.

Readers will learn much about Death Valley from Manly's text, and there are fascinating insights into early California and the life of a gold miner. I highly recommend it.
70 reviews
November 15, 2025
Death Valley in ’49 is a fantastic firsthand account of life and travel in the 19th century. For anyone interested in early American frontier history and the ways people lived and traveled, this book offers a vivid, authentic look at the challenges, ambitions, and daily realities of the era.

One of the most compelling sections is the author’s harrowing journey through Death Valley. His descriptions of the landscape, scarcity of resources, and the group’s sheer determination make for a gripping story of survival. These passages capture both the danger and the resilience that defined westward expansion.

Equally engaging are his experiences in the gold mines. The author provides a detailed and often candid look at mining life, from the backbreaking labor to the constant hope of striking it rich. He also describes the rough justice of the time, including the prevalence of mob law and how suspected criminals were sometimes hanged without formal trial. Along the way, he encounters a wide range of characters, some honest and generous, others dangerous or corrupt, highlighting the unpredictable human landscape of the Gold Rush.

Overall, Death Valley in ’49 is a rewarding read for anyone interested in history, or personal accounts of the American West.
Profile Image for Danell DeBacker.
49 reviews
June 19, 2019
This is the most influential book I have read in my life. My younger brother was assigned to read this in college and when he finished he passed it on to me. This tracks more of Mr. Manly's life than just his time in Death Valley (his time spent in the Gold Rush of California, traveling across the isthmus of Panama, etc.) All of it is a first person look into the history we have learned about and seen romanticized on the big (and little) screen. The shear will to survive. The helplessness and desperation.

There are also issues of race, religion, class - all just as relevant in 2019 as they were in 1849.
1,528 reviews8 followers
May 2, 2019
The author gave Death Valley its name. He traversed in three times: first to find a way through, then to return to the pioneers he had left behind before the beginning of the Valley, and then to bring them back through. It is amazing that the author could remember all the details. He wrote his first account from his diary, and then both the manuscript and his diary were burned in a house fire, and he had to write the second account from memory.
Profile Image for Sonja Abernathy.
78 reviews
April 2, 2020
Death Valley in 1849

This book is an amazing true story about a wagon train heading for the gold fields in California, told by a man who was born around 1820 who becomes a leader of a group that tried a shorter route. It's very interesting to read about what these people endured. Written as if the author was talking to you. I recommend this book
Profile Image for Pat Hollingsworth.
280 reviews1 follower
January 31, 2024
The title is a misnomer as it is a memoir of a man beginning in his youth traveling through Wisconsin and Illinois eventually joining a group heading westward. Many adventures precede the fateful trip through the Nevada desert. After relating his experiences crossing the desert, he takes a pause in the narrative to include testimony, or letters, from other travelers including the Jayhawkers who he crossed paths with. The emphasis in the book is on the desert journey – priceless as source material as he and his companions were the first to encounter many of these areas.

For source material indeed this book is priceless, but for reading enjoyment, I might rate it a “2”. There is just too, too much anguish and repetition.

The writer goes on to mine gold in California eventually traveling back east via the Panama Canal. That part was fascinating.

I only wish there could have been maps to accompany the book, especially when traveling through Wyoming and Utah. There is quite a bit of info online about the Jayhawkers.
25 reviews
June 16, 2024
Manly really covered all the little details one doesn’t even think of when the REAL REALITY of pioneers trying to cross the Plains rivers and mountains of the USA thru Death Valley to California for a better life! These stories which you collected really impressed me of their determination and Grit. I congratulate you for getting THEIR stories on paper. I really enjoyed this book!


772 reviews4 followers
July 8, 2025
brilliant

A fascinating, timeless story of a true pioneer, with first person accounts of crossing death valley ( twice) And living in the time of the California gold rush. Interesting, well written and much more modern than one would think, given it was written in 1893 or thereabouts
1 review
December 30, 2017
Important read for all western history enthusiasts

Death Valley in 49 is a important book. It has been said, for many years, to be one of the most important books for understanding the history of the trail of Utah and California.
1 review11 followers
January 30, 2019
Excellent read. Well written. You do have to pay attention as he talks about different people and groups.

I liked that it was a historical account of the gold rush by someone that lived through it. I recommend this book.
Profile Image for Mandy.
416 reviews9 followers
January 8, 2021
Such a cool, cool story. I can't even imagine carrying everything i own and just walking to some place I've never been- the things they saw, the things they experienced... wow. It was such an amazing story to read. Highly recommend!
52 reviews
July 14, 2021
Best of narratives

The man who walked across our country in journey with pilgrims young, old, female and male tells the story oh his crossing with all the starvation, dangers and raging thirst he experienced.
Profile Image for Michael McCue.
630 reviews15 followers
January 26, 2022
The first person account of a party of 49ers who made the mistake of trying to get to the goldfields by way of death valley. A disturbing story as many animals suffered and died in the process but a primary source of the Gold Rush days.
2 reviews
May 24, 2025
an honest rendition

Excellent accounting of the hardships on 49. I have been to Death Valley some 50 years ago as a college student studying the flora, fauna and natural history. We camped at Balarat bringing in water. Even ate rattlesnake grilled over a fire. Fond memories.



1 review
December 15, 2017
A wonderful book that gives the history of California and the sacrifices that the pioneers had to endure to reach it and create this wonderful state.
Profile Image for Babs M.
334 reviews1 follower
September 19, 2019
Excellent read. If you really want to know what it was like to head West to California and all the trials involved this book will not disappoint. I loved historical recitations.
Profile Image for S.M..
Author 5 books25 followers
Read
January 29, 2021
DNF on page 166. Interesting and tedious by turns--I got to the point where they leave Death Valley and decided I was done.
Profile Image for J.D. Sutter.
288 reviews26 followers
August 29, 2023
Fascinating account of the gold rush era from one who was there. Not the most well-written narrative, but an interesting piece of American history nonetheless.
Profile Image for Pz4real.
49 reviews
September 12, 2023
Must read! Harrowing tale of Manly’s life and his journey to California!
Profile Image for Chelsea.
67 reviews1 follower
July 13, 2024
Fascinating!! I can’t even imagine doing what those people did back then. They were made of stronger stuff than I!
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