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One Man and a Mule: Across England with a Pack Mule

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In the Middle Ages, mules were used to transport goods across Britain. Strong, sturdy and able to carry a good 160 lbs of weight, they made ideal walking companions – as long as you didn’t ask them to do anything they disapproved of!

Now Hugh Thomson has revived that ancient tradition.

Taking his cue from Robert Louis Stevenson's 19th-century bestseller Travels With a Donkey, Hugh leads his trusty mule Jethro across England from the Lake District to the Yorkshire Moors, using old drovers’ roads that have largely passed into disrepair.

Hugh’s previous journeys have resulted in acclaimed books on Peru, Mexico and the Indian Himalaya, and more recently on southern England for the prize-winning 'The Green Road into the Trees'.

As he crosses the north, he combines his trademark wit and insight with a lyrical intensity about the history and the landscape; and it is his encounters with the people he meets along the way which bring that landscape to life in a manner few other contemporary travel writers attempt.

‘Everywhere Thomson goes, he finds good stories to tell.’
NEW YORK TIMES BOOK REVIEW

304 pages, Hardcover

Published July 25, 2017

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About the author

Hugh Thomson

125 books42 followers
Hugh Thomson believes strongly that the world is not as explored as we like to suppose.

He writes about the wilder corners of the planet, from the edges of Peru to the Himalayas, looking for Inca ruins and lost cultures. Geographical commented that 'he is a writer who explores and not an explorer who writes.'

For 'The Green Road into the Trees', he returned to Britain to write about his own country. It won the inaugural Wainwright Prize for Best Nature and Travel Writing. 'An immensely enjoyable book: curious, articulate, intellectually playful and savagely candid.' Spectator.

For the successful sequel, 'One Man and a Mule', he decided to have ‘a South American adventure in England’ by taking a mule as a pack animal across the north of the country.

His most recent book is his first novel - ‘Viva Byron!’ - which imagines what might have happened if the poet had not died an early death in Greece - but instead lived - and then some! - by going to South America with the great last love of his life, Countess Teresa Guiccioli, to help Simon Bolivar liberate it from the Spanish. "Hugh Thomson is a mesmerising storyteller." Sara Wheeler.

His previous books include: 'The White Rock', 'Nanda Devi' and 'Cochineal Red: Travels through Ancient Peru' (all Weidenfeld & Nicolson), and he has collected some of his favourite places in the lavishly illustrated '50 Wonders of the World'.

In 2009 he wrote 'Tequila Oil', a memoir about getting lost in Mexico when he was eighteen and, in the words of the Alice Cooper song, 'didn't know what he wanted'. It was serialised by BBC R4 as 'Book of the Week'.

"Delightful, celebratory and honest....In a way 'Tequila Oil' is the first installment of his now-complete trilogy, his 'Cochineal Red' and 'The White Rock' being two of the finest books on Latin America of recent years." (Rory MacLean, The Guardian)

See www.thewhiterock.co.uk for more, including his blog and events at which he is speaking.

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Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews
Profile Image for Paul.
2,222 reviews
June 30, 2019
Ever since Wainwright popularised the Coast to Coast in his book it has become one of the countries favourite walks with thousands of people taking a couple of weeks to walk it every year. There have even been some mad souls who have run it, completing it in under two days! Hugh Thomson though is doing things differently and undertaking the route with a mule called Jethro. Mules are not that common these days, but they were regularly used as pack animals until the middle ages and then stopped being used for one reason or another.

Having got a mule with him, he is not going to be able to use the footpaths recommended in the guide book, however, he is going to be following the old drovers roads that are slowing fading from the landscape from lack of use. This not about the journey either, rather this is his way of meeting the people that live along the route and taking the time to contemplate life a little and think. Jethro is a conversation starter as well as being a silent companion, and he has it the easiest too. Rather than being saddled with loads that his medieval forebears would have been expected to carry, he is very lightly loaded. He is also accompanied by the Irish writer, Jasper Winn, who you’d normally fine in a boat. It does make a slight mockery of the title of the book, but Winn adds far more depth to the walk as they set the world to rights across the spine of England.

It had parallels to Spanish Steps, where Tim Moore walks across Spain with a donkey. Not as funny as that book, but I thought that this was a really enjoyable meander across the bridleways of north England very loosely following the coast to coast path. I liked that fact that he wasn’t trying to add deeper meaning to this walk, rather doing it because he could and because he wanted too. The conversations with the people that he meets, from other authors to old school friends he hasn’t seen for half a lifetime, add depth to the book and he little sojourns to see particular things of interest highlight how much history is layered on this landscape. Both authors were frustrated that Jethro’s social media page had more likes then either of theirs which did make me chuckle.
Profile Image for Chris.
10 reviews
October 20, 2019
I found this to be a quite enjoyable read and I took my time reading it. Thomson has a way of making you feel you are truly along for the journey by writing about the small things and quirks of the people he encounters. If you want long descriptions of scenic vistas this is not likely your book. One thing I can pretty much guarantee is that you will know more about mules (or a mule named Jethro) than you did before...and that is a good thing. If I have one quibble it would be that his trip across the Yorkshire Moors was very hasty in the book. Perhaps he was running out of steam but he seemed to go from Richmond (in the Dales) to Robin Hood's Bay (on the east coast) in very short order. One valley in the Lake District seemed to occupy as many pages. It is, however, a small quibble.
Profile Image for Sophy H.
1,850 reviews106 followers
March 8, 2023
*Re-read March 2023- this was a lovely second reading and remains wholesome and fulfilling like a hearty stew.

Original review : Fabulous writing.

Conversational, informative, easygoing storytelling. Hugh Thomson is a natural in nature!

And Jethro the mule, what a star! The curious tidbits of information about muleteering and mule personality quirks are invaluable to the storytelling.

I found this book thoroughly wholesome, like sitting in a countryside pub with a nice cool pint of cider and packet of crisps after a long and thirsty walk.

Much enjoyed.
Profile Image for Adeptus Fringilla.
203 reviews1 follower
January 26, 2018
An enjoyable read about a journey from coast-to-coast with a mule. As he said at the beginning, this is not a guidebook for the walk or a guidebook for walking with a mule. This is mostly an account of a personal journey and about the people and their histories he meets along the way. But Jethro (the mule) gets mentioned a lot.
Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews

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