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K2. El nudo infinito
A monumental book - I defy anyone to read it and remain unmoved. – Stephen Venables, Alpine Journal. Acclaimed as one of the most powerful accounts of mountain adventure and tragedy ever written, The Endless Knot is a harrowing account of the 1986 K2 disaster. A rare first-hand account from a survivor at the very epicentre of the drama, The Endless Knot describes the disaster in frank detail. Kurt Diemberger 's account of the final days of success, accident, storm and escape during which five climbers died, including his partner Julie Tullis and the great British mountaineer Al Rouse , is lacerating in its sense of tragedy, loss and dogged survival. Only Diemberger and Willi Bauer escaped the mountain. K2 had claimed the lives of 13 climbers that summer. Kurt Diemberger is one of only two climbers to have made first ascents of two 8000-metre peaks, Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri . A superb mountaineer, the K2 trauma left him physically and emotionally ravaged, but it also marked him out as an instinctive and tenacious survivor. After a long period of recovery Diemberger published The Endless Knot and resumed life as a mountaineer, filmmaker and international lecturer.
304 pages, Paperback
First published March 7, 1991
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Displaying 1 - 27 of 27 reviews
January 7, 2017
I've been hooked on mountaineering books for a while now and this is definitely one of the better ones I've read. In particular, I found the second half of the book almost impossible to put down as the drama built up. It was a rare case where knowing part of the outcome actually made it more dramatic.
I found this book very well written with good insight into the practicalities of the struggle to survive at such incredible heights. I always like to know more about some of the more practical issues as they are impossible to imagine for someone who's never been (and never will be!) in a similar situation e.g. Kurt being unable to leave a tent for 2-3 days as he had no clothes and no one would get them from the nearby tent. After reading numerous similar books I finally felt after this one that I'm close to picturing what life is really like when stuck for a few days in a tent at such altitude.
Definitely recommend to anyone interested in adventure, survival or inspiring stories.
I found this book very well written with good insight into the practicalities of the struggle to survive at such incredible heights. I always like to know more about some of the more practical issues as they are impossible to imagine for someone who's never been (and never will be!) in a similar situation e.g. Kurt being unable to leave a tent for 2-3 days as he had no clothes and no one would get them from the nearby tent. After reading numerous similar books I finally felt after this one that I'm close to picturing what life is really like when stuck for a few days in a tent at such altitude.
Definitely recommend to anyone interested in adventure, survival or inspiring stories.
April 30, 2022
The perspective Diemberger gives on the 1986 K2 disaster is somewhat limited, since he focuses on a first-person narrative without much context or analysis. But it is a gripping story. While it doesn't quite explain why Diemberger climbs, it certainly shows his obsession.
> The black barrel incubating our beer is a source of great interest to the whole village. Time and again someone will come, talk about the weather, K2 and the route – and then, casting an innocent glance in the direction of the barrel, enquire on the state of the brew. Willi Bauer insists on regular tastings to monitor its progress, so that we assume he must have been a food chemist in some other incarnation. Finally, our beer is ready and turns out to be a foaming, overwhelming success. From as far away as Chogolisa, people arrive to talk about the weather … A good thing Julie brought along a second beer kit
> With [the porter] Musheraf it was rather more difficult: he had an incredible talent for invention when it came to explanations of what had become of our ski-sticks: they fell into crevasses, into mountain streams, they rolled down the steep slopes – but he was such a fantastic man, so full of energy for our climbs, and again and again would generously bring us fresh apples from his village which was three days’ walk away. He obviously had a good number of friends with fruit trees – all of whom had an insatiable need for ski-sticks! In the end we came to a mutual and good-natured understanding, overlooking his little foibles by regarding them rather as a ‘ski-stick tax’. Musheraf turned a little red in the face when I told him that I should hang on to one stick at least for the journey back.
> Bloody hell! I think. That’s all we need! Night! At 8,400 metres! We’ve had a fall, we’re sitting on the highest balcony of the world, we’re longing for any kind of shelter, and now … this. Julie has put the battery in again, closes the case and switches on. Nothing. A wave of utter frustration overcomes me, robbing me suddenly of good sense. I tear the lamp from Julie’s hands and hurl it into the night. Even as I do so, I am bitterly shaken by my outburst. ‘Hell!’ I mumble into my beard, shocked at the consequences of my sudden temper. This must be the altitude. Julie doesn’t say a word, but it is obvious that we should have kept trying longer. Now, we’re very definitely without any light.
> The black barrel incubating our beer is a source of great interest to the whole village. Time and again someone will come, talk about the weather, K2 and the route – and then, casting an innocent glance in the direction of the barrel, enquire on the state of the brew. Willi Bauer insists on regular tastings to monitor its progress, so that we assume he must have been a food chemist in some other incarnation. Finally, our beer is ready and turns out to be a foaming, overwhelming success. From as far away as Chogolisa, people arrive to talk about the weather … A good thing Julie brought along a second beer kit
> With [the porter] Musheraf it was rather more difficult: he had an incredible talent for invention when it came to explanations of what had become of our ski-sticks: they fell into crevasses, into mountain streams, they rolled down the steep slopes – but he was such a fantastic man, so full of energy for our climbs, and again and again would generously bring us fresh apples from his village which was three days’ walk away. He obviously had a good number of friends with fruit trees – all of whom had an insatiable need for ski-sticks! In the end we came to a mutual and good-natured understanding, overlooking his little foibles by regarding them rather as a ‘ski-stick tax’. Musheraf turned a little red in the face when I told him that I should hang on to one stick at least for the journey back.
> Bloody hell! I think. That’s all we need! Night! At 8,400 metres! We’ve had a fall, we’re sitting on the highest balcony of the world, we’re longing for any kind of shelter, and now … this. Julie has put the battery in again, closes the case and switches on. Nothing. A wave of utter frustration overcomes me, robbing me suddenly of good sense. I tear the lamp from Julie’s hands and hurl it into the night. Even as I do so, I am bitterly shaken by my outburst. ‘Hell!’ I mumble into my beard, shocked at the consequences of my sudden temper. This must be the altitude. Julie doesn’t say a word, but it is obvious that we should have kept trying longer. Now, we’re very definitely without any light.
May 11, 2020
One of the best K2 memoirs I’ve read.
Kurt Diemberger takes us back to his successful summit of the second tallest peak in the world in 1986, along with his climbing partner Julie Tullis. The pair had long been dreaming of climbing K2.
What neither could have foreseen was the monstrous storm that kept them and five other alpinists stuck at 8,000 meters for several days after their summit bid (including celebrated brutish mountaineer Alan Rouse.)
Mr. Diemberger’s account of the climb, the storm, the anxious days of waiting, and finally his epic retreat from the Death Zone, is the stuff of legends.
Kurt Diemberger takes us back to his successful summit of the second tallest peak in the world in 1986, along with his climbing partner Julie Tullis. The pair had long been dreaming of climbing K2.
What neither could have foreseen was the monstrous storm that kept them and five other alpinists stuck at 8,000 meters for several days after their summit bid (including celebrated brutish mountaineer Alan Rouse.)
Mr. Diemberger’s account of the climb, the storm, the anxious days of waiting, and finally his epic retreat from the Death Zone, is the stuff of legends.
January 28, 2016
Amazing story
This book is such an amazing story of one person's life. A life created and lived with passion,something most of us only dream of. This story provokes a complex emotional struggle where death and tragedy are displayed with true detail,something out society denies. The descriptions of the mountain scenery and human experience of being there is captivating and inspiring. It is inspiring to find something that moves you in such a way.
This book is such an amazing story of one person's life. A life created and lived with passion,something most of us only dream of. This story provokes a complex emotional struggle where death and tragedy are displayed with true detail,something out society denies. The descriptions of the mountain scenery and human experience of being there is captivating and inspiring. It is inspiring to find something that moves you in such a way.
October 6, 2016
Amazing and gripping
Kurt weaves a magical trance as he takes you inside the mind of high altitude mountaineers and also how life exists on the high ridges when ascents take place. Spell binding book
Kurt weaves a magical trance as he takes you inside the mind of high altitude mountaineers and also how life exists on the high ridges when ascents take place. Spell binding book
March 27, 2021
Lo más cerca que estaré del K2.
Lindo relato
Lindo relato
December 17, 2021
Me ha parecido un libro maravilloso. Logra transmitir tanto la belleza que atrae a los himalayistas como los miedos que, justificadamente, provocan las cumbres más altas del planeta y los dramas que encierran.
Al principio la historia se desarrolla lentamente, haciendo un repaso de varias expediciones y proyectos de Diemberger. Entiendo que esta parte es necesaria para presentar a los protagonistas y entender sus motivaciones pero es la que más pesada se me hizo.
Todo cambia una vez empieza a el verano de 1986. La narración de la expedición es desgarradora y cuesta apartar el libro de ti una vez empiezas a leer. Sientes que estás con los himalayistas, encerrado en las tiendas a 8000 m de altura. Sientes la desesperación de la sed y la seguridad de que vas a morir.
A pesar de conocer el final, muchas veces me sorprendía deseando que ocurriera el milagro y la historia acabara de otra forma. Conforme avanzan en la montaña y sopla el viento de China, te preguntas cómo es posible que en unas horas se desate el infierno y que esas personas, que ya sientes como viejos conocidos, nunca logren bajar.
Por otro lado, aparte de la sensibilidad de la historia y lo bien que logra transmitir la tragedia del K2, "El nudo infinito" me ha parecido un pequeño manual de alpinismo para los que, como yo, poco conocemos de la vida en las alturas. Aunque obviamente no es su propósito principal, explica de una forma bastante didáctica el funcionamiento de varios instrumentos de montaña, las enfermedades y accidentes más comunes entre los himalayistas o incluso curiosidades como qué comen y beben durante las expediciones, cómo preparan los campamentos y cómo pasan las horas dentro de la tienda.
En resumen, un libro detallista y emotivo y uno de los mejores que he leído sobre montañismo.
Al principio la historia se desarrolla lentamente, haciendo un repaso de varias expediciones y proyectos de Diemberger. Entiendo que esta parte es necesaria para presentar a los protagonistas y entender sus motivaciones pero es la que más pesada se me hizo.
Todo cambia una vez empieza a el verano de 1986. La narración de la expedición es desgarradora y cuesta apartar el libro de ti una vez empiezas a leer. Sientes que estás con los himalayistas, encerrado en las tiendas a 8000 m de altura. Sientes la desesperación de la sed y la seguridad de que vas a morir.
A pesar de conocer el final, muchas veces me sorprendía deseando que ocurriera el milagro y la historia acabara de otra forma. Conforme avanzan en la montaña y sopla el viento de China, te preguntas cómo es posible que en unas horas se desate el infierno y que esas personas, que ya sientes como viejos conocidos, nunca logren bajar.
Por otro lado, aparte de la sensibilidad de la historia y lo bien que logra transmitir la tragedia del K2, "El nudo infinito" me ha parecido un pequeño manual de alpinismo para los que, como yo, poco conocemos de la vida en las alturas. Aunque obviamente no es su propósito principal, explica de una forma bastante didáctica el funcionamiento de varios instrumentos de montaña, las enfermedades y accidentes más comunes entre los himalayistas o incluso curiosidades como qué comen y beben durante las expediciones, cómo preparan los campamentos y cómo pasan las horas dentro de la tienda.
En resumen, un libro detallista y emotivo y uno de los mejores que he leído sobre montañismo.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
May 19, 2021
I knew how the story would end, having read multiple accounts of it, but it was still interesting to see Diemberger's perspective on the mess that summer '86 became on K2. Perhaps the most fascinating aspect about this book is everything that happened before that ill-fated expedition: how Diemberger and Tullis met, the things they accomplished together, their chemistry as a climbing team. I particularly enjoyed the side stories about projects not necessarily involving mountaineering, such as the ethnographic and physiological research work done in Nepal. All of that would have been lost to history had Diemberger died too, or had he refused to put on paper the details following the tragedy due to the huge amount of pain those recollections no doubt brought. Thus, The Endless Knot exists for those of us curious to understand the actions and decisions leading to the course of events which define that particular year in the Karakoram. In a way, it was weird reading about people who left the realm of the living decades ago, yet I also appreciated getting a better glimpse of characters whose potential was cut short by their untimely deaths. Julie Tullis and Renato Casarotto were both adventurers ahead of their time; now we remember them firmly by their demise on K2 in the summer of 1986.
May 16, 2023
.Para mí es una pasión. Muchos pensarán que estoy loca por amar una montaña. Pero el K2 es una montaña muy especial.
JULIE TULLIS
He disfrutado enormemente este libro. Si bien el inicio es un tanto irregular, un tanto caótico diría yo, crece en intensidad a medida que avanzan los capítulos, logrando transmitir el amor por las montañas y la pasión por la escalada. Una pasión en la que asumes que puedes llegar a perder la vida, por muy profesional y experimentado que seas. Prueba de ello son las terribles pérdidas humanas que vivió de primera mano el propio Kurt Diemberger, y aquellas otras que son relatadas en esas páginas, tanto de los escaladores como de los porteadores locales (relegados siempre a un segundo plano).
JULIE TULLIS
He disfrutado enormemente este libro. Si bien el inicio es un tanto irregular, un tanto caótico diría yo, crece en intensidad a medida que avanzan los capítulos, logrando transmitir el amor por las montañas y la pasión por la escalada. Una pasión en la que asumes que puedes llegar a perder la vida, por muy profesional y experimentado que seas. Prueba de ello son las terribles pérdidas humanas que vivió de primera mano el propio Kurt Diemberger, y aquellas otras que son relatadas en esas páginas, tanto de los escaladores como de los porteadores locales (relegados siempre a un segundo plano).
October 7, 2023
It took me a while to really get into this book, but once I recognised it as a love letter, both to K2 and to Julie, I appreciated the writing style a lot more and very swiftly progressed.
I had no idea about the 1986 deaths on K2, so I found the blatant mentions of mistakes or chances to avoid death, to be both jarring and poignant. It’s not a technique that would always work but it does here to create a rather memorable book.
I’m not as intrigued by K2 as I am by Everest, but I’m starting to see the mystique that it holds for some mountaineers. I think this will have a high reread value, especially if I read more books covering this season (like reading Boukreev’s and Krakauer’s interpretations of a certain Everest season).
I had no idea about the 1986 deaths on K2, so I found the blatant mentions of mistakes or chances to avoid death, to be both jarring and poignant. It’s not a technique that would always work but it does here to create a rather memorable book.
I’m not as intrigued by K2 as I am by Everest, but I’m starting to see the mystique that it holds for some mountaineers. I think this will have a high reread value, especially if I read more books covering this season (like reading Boukreev’s and Krakauer’s interpretations of a certain Everest season).
October 22, 2022
Una gran historia que merece la pena conocer de la mano de uno de los protagonistas, alguien que vivió aquella gran tragedia de 1986 en el K2, especialmente si te gusta la montaña o el alpinismo. El libro es más ameno y ágil en la segunda mitad, aunque me ha resultado interesante desde el primer momento. También se agradecen las fotografías que incluye y que ilustran perfectamente la historia. Un buen sucedáneo para todos los que algún día nos gustaría estar cara a cara con un ochomil.
April 19, 2021
Un libro muy bien escrito, con la perspectiva del tiempo. Diría que un clásico del alpinismo. Ya conocía la historia, además de por ser mítica, por otros libros (como Sin Oxigeno de Greg Child) y, sin embargo me enganchó.
Una ascensión de los 80 hecha (y contada) por un alpinista (tal vez el último) de la edad dorada de los ochomiles.
Una ascensión de los 80 hecha (y contada) por un alpinista (tal vez el último) de la edad dorada de los ochomiles.
October 4, 2018
Impresionante lectura de los acontecimientos sucedidos en las faldas del K2. Difícil de comprender muchos de los hechos y decisiones tomadas cuando no se conoce ese mundo.
Algo dilatada la introducción hasta que llega al ascenso en si.
Algo dilatada la introducción hasta que llega al ascenso en si.
January 10, 2023
El primer tercio se hace pesado. Cuesta seguir el hilo temporal de lo que está contando, y se pierde en hacer una y otra vez las mismas reflexiones para sí mismo.
A partir de ahí se centra en relatar los acontecimientos y tiene más ritmo.
A partir de ahí se centra en relatar los acontecimientos y tiene más ritmo.
October 28, 2025
De lo mejor que he leído en cualquier género, no sólo sobre alpinismo. Su prosa, su estilo romantico, como hila la historia... En fin, una novela de lectura obligada para cualquier amante de la aventura y las montañas.
March 13, 2018
visceral and heart rending.
September 18, 2019
Brilliant
March 16, 2020
He has an idiosyncratic style which I enjoyed. Harrowing book, but spellbinding.
April 23, 2020
I knew what happened, but hearing a first hand account was sobering. I’ll stick to the Scottish hills!
November 1, 2022
El montañismo en su máxima expresión, que nivel que tenían Kurt y Julie, tremendos!.
October 9, 2024
La primera mitad medio pesada pero la segunda mitad muy muy buena!!
February 21, 2025
Una historia sobre un accidente real contado de una forma muy personal y triste. No es un libro de alpinismo es una historia triste.
January 30, 2021
I’m fascinated by high alpine stories and so thoroughly enjoyed this read. Kurt Diemberger has a very expressive way of writing that is captivating and beautiful.
June 15, 2020
Un libro que si bien al principio se me hizo demasiado pesado y un poco confuso, con idas y venidas temporales que no acababa de situar, una vez se centra en la expedición de 1986 se me volvió completamente adictivo. Es desgarrador cómo va describiendo la serie de acontecimientos y el goteo constante de accidentes con fallecidos que se van sucediendo durante el verano de 1986.
On the one hand, you know that in the mountains, risk to life is ever-present. While on the other, the death of a person – how shall I put it? – shatters the dream with which you set out.
no logician has yet come up with a satisfactory explanation for the enigma of life and death.
On the one hand, you know that in the mountains, risk to life is ever-present. While on the other, the death of a person – how shall I put it? – shatters the dream with which you set out.
no logician has yet come up with a satisfactory explanation for the enigma of life and death.
November 25, 2024
C'è una parte dove viene raccontata una tragedia sul K2 in mezzo alla tempesa che mi aveva angosciato tantissimo. Per gli amanti dell'alpinismo di alta quota, ma anche di avventura in generale, davvero una lettura consigliatissima
March 15, 2014
Kurt Diemberger és un alpinista llegendari. L'únic viu que ha estat capaç de ser el primer en pujar dos 8000 diferents (el Broad Peak i el Dhaulagiri). En aquest llibre relata una part de la seva vida que va passar escalant amb la seva companya Jullie Tullis. En la primera part explica perque el K2 es va convertir en una peça fonamental en la seva relació mentre que la segona part es centra en la tragèdia del K2 al 1986, viscuda en primera persona per Diemberger i saldada amb 5 morts a la muntanya.
El llibre però no és només el relat de la ascensió i posterior tragèdia (com és el cas del llibre de Krakauer "Into thin air" i l'expedició a l'Everest de 1996). El llibre és pur amor per la muntanya, respecte, admiració i dedicació, i pur amor també per la seva companya Jullie Tullis. Molt ben escrit, evocador, emocionant i ilustrat amb fotografies de la època, m'ha semblat una magnífica mostra de literatura d'alta muntanya i una molt bona introducció a la mística del K2.
El llibre però no és només el relat de la ascensió i posterior tragèdia (com és el cas del llibre de Krakauer "Into thin air" i l'expedició a l'Everest de 1996). El llibre és pur amor per la muntanya, respecte, admiració i dedicació, i pur amor també per la seva companya Jullie Tullis. Molt ben escrit, evocador, emocionant i ilustrat amb fotografies de la època, m'ha semblat una magnífica mostra de literatura d'alta muntanya i una molt bona introducció a la mística del K2.
July 6, 2024
the mountain is just a setting for an unexpectedly heart-wrenching unexpected love story.
Displaying 1 - 27 of 27 reviews