This is a biography of the English breakfast, a culinary detective story and a cookbook rolled into one. It tells the often-surprising tale of the English breakfast and presents authentic facsimile Victorian and Edwardian recipes and menus for forgotten breakfast and sideboard delights from the heyday of this best of all meals, by four celebrated culinary figures of the period -- Georgiana Hill who catered for the grandest houses, the pukka colonial Colonel Kenney-Herbert, the galloping 'Major L' who rode to hounds and ran with the hunting set, and the bright and bustling Miss M. L. Allen, a paragon among housekeepers. Including six hundred and fifty recipes along with menu plans and instructions for breakfast table settings, this is a cracking good culinary read. Experienced cooks can use the recipes with little difficulty, inexperienced cooks can begin with the simpler recipes of which there are many, and those interested in social and culinary history can use the cookbooks as texts.
Why would the English Breakfast need its own biography, wondered this reviewer, since after all what is there to really say about this classic staple?
The answer? There is rather a lot more to the English Breakfast than meets the eye, both in terms of its history and its cultural role. Just after a few pages, this reviewer's eyes were wide open, brain rapidly consuming much information in the process. Clearly the role of the breakfast has changed over time, with the usual argument being that we no longer have an agricultural or industrial-led society where big hearty breakfasts were the norm. Yet ironically often the more elaborate, filling breakfasts were enjoyed by the higher strata of society who absolutely didn't do physically-demanding labour.
This book is a lot more than just a history of the British breakfast. It is a great means to fill your mind, should you so allow it, with lots of "useless" information that might be helpful one day. For example, this reviewer never knew that author George Orwell (real name Eric Blair) had worked in restaurant kitchens in France. Or that, at the time, it was considered acceptable to beat younger boys at school if they had not mastered the art of making the perfect slice of toast for their seniors. Oh, there is a lot more to this breakfast lark than just a cup of tea, bacon, eggs and maybe a condiment or two.
Many one-time breakfast staples have fell out of use in today's society. Croquettes of Brains or Cauliflower in Batter anyone? Even beer for breakfast! Whilst many things are still as relevant today as they would have been hundreds of years ago, such as oatmeal porridge. This book carefully mixes together historical references, sample menus, recipes and much miscellaneous trivia that one feels, after a "reading session" as bloated as one could be if a (then) FULL English breakfast had been consumed. The sheer amount and diversity of food consumed at breakfast would be, for many, considered excessive if served for the main evening meal today.
The only small niggles with this book relate to the printing (too small) and binding (too tight) of this book. Already after a modest amount of time, this book looks rather too weather worn and beaten out of shape. How it would be after years of repeated consultation one dare not think (and this is a book that this reviewer can consider would be a consulted favourite). An index would have been a suitable addition also, as already it is frustrating to have a recollection about a certain dish, ingredient, recipe or element of the English Breakfast but can one find it again? Not a chance in this mass of (useful) information. There are several pages of further reading and bibliographic references too so why no index? An index and a slightly more "rugged" book would have easily made this a five YUM (star) book.
At the start this reviewer was sceptical as to whether there could be sufficient information about the English breakfast to warrant nearly 400 pages and a fairly hefty price tag. One should learn to curb such scepticism. This is a great little book, slightly let down by a few niggles, but still a great book nonetheless. Essential reading for the Briton who might care about their breakfast. And essential reading for a foreigner to learn a little more about what can make an Englishman tick.
The English Breakfast, written by Kaori O'Connor and published by Bloomsbury/Berg. ISBN 9780857854544, 376 pages. Typical price: USD29.95. YYYY.
// This review appeared in YUM.fi and is reproduced here in full with permission of YUM.fi. YUM.fi celebrates the worldwide diversity of food and drink, as presented through the humble book. Whether you call it a cookery book, cook book, recipe book or something else (in the language of your choice) YUM will provide you with news and reviews of the latest books on the marketplace. //