Untangling My Chopsticks: A Culinary Sojourn in Kyoto

by Victoria Abbott Riccardi

Two years out of college and with a degree from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Victoria Riccardi left a boyfriend, a rent-controlled New York City apartment, and a plum job in advertising to move to Kyoto to study kaiseki , the exquisitely refined form of cooking that accompanies the formal Japanese tea ceremony. She arrived in Kyoto, a city she had dreamed about but never seen, with two bags, an open-ended plane ticket, and the ability to speak only sushi-bar Japanese. She left a year later, having learned the language, the art of kaiseki, and what was truly important to her.

Through special introductions and personal favors, Victoria was able to attend one of Kyoto’s most prestigious tea schools, where this ago-old Japanese art has been preserved for generations and where she was taken under the wing of an American expatriate who became her mentor in the highly choreographed rituals of this extraordinary culinary discipline.

During her year in Kyoto, Victoria explored the mysterious and rarefied world of tea kaiseki, living a life inaccessible to most foreigners. She also discovered the beguiling realm of modern-day Japanese food—the restaurants, specialty shops, and supermarkets. She participated in many fast-disappearing culinary customs, including making mochi (chewy rice cakes) by hand, a beloved family ritual barely surviving in a mechanized age. She celebrated the annual cleansing rites of New Year’s, donning an elaborate kimono and obi for a thirty-four-course extravaganza. She includes twenty-five recipes for favorite dishes she encountered, such as Chicken and Egg Rice Bowl, Japanese Beef and Vegetable Hotpot, and Green-Tea Cooked Salmon Over Rice.

Untangling My Chopsticks is a sumptuous journey into the tastes, traditions, and exotic undercurrents of Japan. It is also a coming-of-age tale steeped in history and ancient customs, a thoughtful meditation on life, love, and learning in another land.

Genres: Japan, Food, Travel, Nonfiction, Memoir, Cooking, Foodie

304 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2003

Reviews

[Alee · Rating 3 out of 5]

I started to read this book before my first trip to Japan but ran out of time. Then I finished it after my return. Because I love to make things out of cookbooks, and this book is basically a biography/cookbook, I thought I'd try two items from the book. You can see my posting with pictures of the recipes I made at: http://etudesinfood.wordpress.com/201...

Bottom line: I thought the book was a good characterization about how difficult it is to travel to a completely different culture and try to fit in (as opposed to exclusively stay in an expat community and rely on others for the more complicated communications). She learned tea kaiseki (her own goal), integrated herself into the community, and made lifelong friends. What more can you ask?

The downside is that the book is not quite as entertaining as or . The author gets a little bogged down in places. However, I did enjoy her descriptions of making friends and making mochi.

Best quote (my own mother passed away in April, a month before my own trip): p.7 "The clock of life is wound just once," he said, turning to me. "If you want to go to Japan, now is the time" and that's just where I headed shortly after reading the first part of this book. I loved Kyoto and finishing the book meant a lot to me after the trip.

[Hester · Rating 4 out of 5]

Ever since I read this book, I have wanted to eat a kaiseki meal. That desire is still unfulfilled. There was a kaiseki restaurant in Vancouver when I was there five years ago, but my then-boyfriend had no interest and I did not want to go by myself.

The narrator in this book is young, so while she seems to be a lovely person, her voice is not the most compelling. In some ways, this is a coming-of-age novel, which is not my favorite genre. She is, however, a keen observer of a world I will probably never get the chance to witness. Victoria moved to Kyoto to study kaiseki, a rarefied Japanese cuisine that grew out of the tea ceremony and that has not been exported to the rest of world. As such, she describes rituals and experiences that I have not seen anywhere else.

Something that may be a surprise to people who read books about Japan is how she was adopted by several older Japanese. She experiences New Year's mochi making and family celebrations. A must for people who want to understand traditional Japanese cultre.

[Purlewe · Rating 5 out of 5]

Untangling my Chopsticks, by Victoria Abbott Ricardi is a delightful book. It made me hungry just reading it. I wanted to change the way I read books (right before bed) so I could actually try and eat after I finished a chapter. I never did change my reading habits, but I will admit to some mightly fine food dreams.

I have not tried any of the recipes she posts at the end of each chapter. It isn't hard for me. I know I could cook some of this stuff. Plus I live right beside the First Oriental Market in S. Philly. I just know the time and preparation it takes to make these dishes, and when it is cold I am just not in the mood to take several hours to make certain foods. I have satisfied some of my hungers by going to the Korean place for lunch this week. But that only means I have held the Japanese food hunger at bay. I will definitely have to try out the recipes in this book and see if they taste as good as they sound.

I loved her descriptions about Japan. I loved hearing about her relationships with Kyoto and the people there. I really enjoyed hearing about the tea ceremony and some of the other rituals that are becoming mechanized in Japanese society. Plenty of old ways are being lost in every culture and I respect her for following and learning a lost art and tradition. Making mochi sounds alot more interesting and tasty doing it the old way than making it in a factory. (I read yesterday that people in India are finding ways to worship online instead of doing things through the local temple b'c it "takes too much time." Old ways being lost and new ways being discovered, every day.)

I will admit though, as a person who has lived in another country and as someone who stayed in an asian country with a local family, I can say I don't always agree with her. She states that it is zen that made the time complete in Kyoto. But she never visited the zen buddhist version (in a monastary) of tea kaiseki until after she had been away from Japan for many years. She says everything in her life during that time was controlled by zen. She makes comments about how the Japanese do things that I have personally experienced and would disagree with. Maybe it is because as an outsider she never was a full part of the culture. Let's face it, if you aren't Japanese, you are never part of the culture. I respect the reasons and the points she makes about what she has learned, but perhaps if she had someone in her life on the inside of that culture she would learned some things differently than she did.

I loved reading about Stephen and his partner and how they had tea ceremonies in their home for guests and visitors. I enjoyed hearing all about how things are placed together in a tea ceremony and why. I felt that the spare lines in her story accented the way life in Japan is lived. But I also felt like there was so much she left out and so much I missed. Perhaps this comes because she wrote it long after she had returned. Perhaps it is because so much in Kyoto society is private and she felt the need to translate that into the book. I will say that the book left me wanting more, much like the tea ceremony is supposed to leave you slightly hungry, making you look forward to the next time you return.

[Wendy · Rating 4 out of 5]

An informative and relaxing read for anyone interested in Japanese food culture -- specifically, the tea kaiseke, an intricate culinary, cultural, and spiritual practise around foods served as part of the Japanese tea ceremony.

The narrative meanders among vignettes of specific tea kaiseke experiences, explanations of the cultural and spiritual roots, and full recipes inserted among
the chapters (the okonomiyaki is delicious!). There are detailed explanations of the foods, and of every element that is chosen to enhance them -- the dish wares, serving etiquette, among other rules known by the "tea master."

As structured and disciplined as tea kaiseke is described to be, the author relates the details in a personal, relaxed tone, conveying the idea that kaiseke is much more than a food ritual; it is a traditional practise that serves as a kind of meditation and a spiritual path to patience, gratitude, calmness, and enlightenment. As a result of this book, I'd be inclined to try tea kaiseke rather than to feel intimidated by it.

I'd recommend this title to anyone with an interest in Japanese culture, a passion for food, and an interest in the connections between food and the human spirit.

[Vanessa ❤️ · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was my first Wordy Traveler box, and it was a fully Japan submerge process..that was wonderful!
Book is extremely informative (I learned so much about tea, food, Japan, and following your dreams-wherever they may take you! ❤️), without feeling like a text book.

“I also came to embrace good and bad, imperfect and whole, and light and dark. You have to know the bad to appreciate the good; the imperfect offers room for creativity and growth; and only by residing in the dark can you find the light.”
“Life is fleeting, therefore every moment is sacred and should be appreciated to the fullest. The art of tea embodies this concept. This kind of thinking brings grace and meaning to everything you do, including the mundane.”

[Booktart · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’m not sure if I would have enjoyed this as much if I hadn’t read it while in Kyoto, because it is a bit too long, but I really enjoyed reading about sights and foods I had seen and tasted. Learning about the tea ceremony was interesting but I enjoyed the author’s descriptions of Japanese culture and Kyoto specifically the most.

[Amber · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.5 stars
well done but not mind blowing

[Nadia · Rating 1 out of 5]

I can not get into this book at all. It’s so slow and uninteresting. Finally calling it after 13 days and only on page 82.

[Em · Rating 3 out of 5]

Easy read, more or less enjoyable. Really enjoy the inclusion of recipes and the way the author's passion and appreciation for good food enjoyed with good people shines through. I'm a grouchy cook and I'm going to make more of an effort to look at cooking as a gift, rather than a chore. Was already excited to go to Kyoto, am now even more so.

There were several parts that I felt were both unnecessary and kind of sensationalist, playing on the tired "wow Japan is so crazy and weird" trope that I see a lot in the West. These parts didn't add anything to the narrative other than her being confused/super judgmental about some of the more "taboo" aspects of Japanese culture (but come on, older men everywhere are attracted to young(er) women/girls because most cultures prioritize youth. Sugar daddies are a thing in America, too. And stop judging women for who/how they choose date.)

[FiveFlavours · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book although it made me regret being so busy with work when I lived in Japan that I didn't concentrate enough time on learning about food. She gives some amazing details that would, no doubt, bore someone who is not completely into Japanese food or culture. Her focus is on tea kaiseki, which is the food that is based around one of the many types of tea ceremony. Since I'm obsessed with tea...uh...and with food, I thought this was great. But, like Fuschia Dunlop's book Shark's Fin and Szechuan Pepper, you can also get a feel for her personal experience of living in a foreign country and learning all that there is to learn.

[Avi · Rating 3 out of 5]

Lots of Japan trivia. Some interesting recipes. Weak as a memoir, disjointed at times, underdetailed in terms of what is important, overdetailed in terms of what isn't. It could have been a lot stronger if condensed to 50 pages, but despite the complaints there is some good content in this. If you are very interested in Japanese food, Japan, or the tea ceremony, this is worth reading (or maybe just skimming if you're just there for the food, if you're reading it for the latter, maybe read the first couple chapters and the last chapter).

[Natashya KitchenPuppies · Rating 3 out of 5]

I did really like this chronicle of the author's experiences in Kyoto - but I felt it lacked passion, perhaps from being written so long after her experiences. It is well detailed and a good read though.

[Lorette Russenberger · Rating 2 out of 5]

Young American encounters Japanese foods traditions. Slight but interesting.

[Silas · Rating 3 out of 5]

I picked this book up because I am making a trip to Japan in the near future, and it was on a recommended list about learning about Japan. Had I not also done a good deal of other research on Japanese culture and foodways, I suspect a lot of the information here would have been new to me. As it is, I had learned a lot of those things elsewhere. This is not a terribly new book, and details the author's experience in Japan in the late '80s, when far less was known about Japan in the West. I appreciated that the book included recipes for a number of the dishes she mentions in her story, though some of the ingredients would likely prove somewhat difficult to obtain outside of Japan. The memoir is interesting, and I appreciated the author's moving experience participating in some festivals was quite moving. The only real misfire here is a moment near the end where the author doesn't seem to realize that not all manga is pornographic, which makes me wonder if there were other things that she misunderstood, or didn't get the whole picture of. I don't have any other reason to believe anything she said was incorrect, but it did make me wonder. This was an enjoyable memoir with the added benefit of some recipes, and I am glad that I read it.

[Sabrina · Rating 4 out of 5]

4.5/5

I've been to Japan and reading this helped bring back a lot of good memories. It's a fun book to read if you want a simple overview of life in Japan that doesn't sound like a tourist brochure or if you need a refreshing review of the culture. The book focuses on tea kaiseki but it does a wonderful job tying in how it relates to the culture, history, and language.

Where I marked it down though was that I had to remind myself often to read it. There wasn't a sense of "What's next?" after I finished a chapter. About half way through I was already eyeing my next book to read and wondered if I should start that instead.

Like some of Victoria's dishes she describes, if you want something pleasant to munch on, this book is a satisfying meal.

[Chloe A-L · Rating 2 out of 5]

The actual information about tea ceremony cuisine is interesting and the food descriptions are lovely, but they book sucks as a whole. It's an "Eat pray love" style "exoticisation as white woman's personal growth" narrative that I think is racist and to be honest, incredibly boring. I often wanted to be able to text the author just to tell her important things like "you are not as charming as you think you are" and "it's not ok to say 'the orient' even if you think you're being tongue in cheek" and "when you say all Japanese people are fastidiously clean and describe what are clearly fast food workers doing bullshit manual labor you sound like both an idiot and a eugenicist". Stick to the food.

[Ashley Lambert-Maberly · Rating 3 out of 5]

Perfectly nice book—nothing wrong with a three star rating—but not especially spectacular. If you're interested in the subject (food in Kyoto, in the 1980s, with an emphasis of tea kaiseki) you will enjoy this greatly. But (unlike M.F.K. Fisher's work, say) it doesn't rise above the level of interesting/diverting to become some kind of culinary classic.

(Note: 5 stars = amazing, wonderful, 4 = very good book, 3 = decent read, 2 = disappointing, 1 = awful, just awful. I'm fairly good at picking for myself so end up with a lot of 4s). I feel a lot of readers automatically render any book they enjoy 5, but I grade on a curve!

[Caroline · Rating 4 out of 5]

A delightful read. I enjoyed learning about the kaiseki tea ceremony. A wonderful immersion into Japanese culture. Loved how the Japanese are so into the seasons, having I think 26 different individual sub-seasons. The food described was so precious and exquisite; my only complaint is that the author did not include any photos of any dishes or Kyoto. I reminisced about the cherry blossom festival in Wash DC to my SF book club. I wanted to try her miso soup recipe but shelves on my local Asian market were bare and I couldn't find many of the ingredients so instead, I cheated and made an instant miso mix which was so easy! I added silken tofu and scallions. Would be an easy lunch for work.

[Evelyn Lee · Rating 2 out of 5]

This book is very thorough in describing all the Japanese customs and food of the tea kaiseki. Unfortunately, I was hoping it would be more of a story that included a feeling of the peace, anticipation, and pleasure of the moment. There was some of that, but mostly felt like reading a long list of ingredients and instruction on how to prepare them. In her favor, if you are really into Japanese culture and food, or are very familiar with many of the Japanese dishes, I think you will enjoy this book.

[Anna – ARC reader extraordinaire! · Rating 4 out of 5]

I call myself a Japanophile, but I must confess that I had little knowledge about tea kaiseki. However, I make it a point to read most Japan-centric books that come my way, especially about food. Untangling My Chopsticks is a wonderful introduction to Japanese culture, particularly its culinary heritage. I feel it will appeal to people who plan to visit Kyoto, have been there, or are fascinated by the country’s many traditional aspects. The book has a zen-like aura, so it’s best to read it slowly over time.

[Gwen · Rating 3 out of 5]

A coming-of-age memoir set against the backdrop of expat life in 1980s Kyoto. I was expecting more Fuchsia Dunlop-style insight into Japanese culture and a deeper knowledge of Japanese cooking than was shared (a la Dunlop's Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China). Nice insights into tea kaiseki and the philosophy behind tea ceremonies.

[Sara · Rating 3 out of 5]

Read for Popsugar: A book that's been on your TBR for way too long (since I first started using this site in 2010, yikes!)

This was an enjoyable read, and I learned quite a bit about tea kaiseki, being unfamiliar with it beforehand. Part educational, part memoir, it showcases some unique aspects of Japan, but also feels a little incomplete in the same regard at times. There's a lot of basic Japan stuff covered in here, as well.

[Carolyn · Rating 3 out of 5]

Read this book for some insight about tea kaiseki cooking. The other interesting feature of the book is that it chronicles the author’s sojourn in Kyoto in 1986-87. There is a bit of a time capsule feeling to the book. The narrative didn’t hang as well as it could have so I struggled to work through the book.

[Susan · Rating 5 out of 5]

A delightful book. The author moves to Kyoto for a year to learn more about tea keiseki, a topic I know nothing about. Her details about her classes, the culture surrounding tea keiseki and the folks she meets and gets to know during this year are all written in a very caring way. I'm so glad I read this book!

[Carrie Simkus · Rating 5 out of 5]

I am planning a trip to Japan next year and saw this book on a recommendation list. I am so glad I picked it up, what a lovely read. It was both insight into being a traveler and a culinary trip. Her descriptions of both the flavors and meaning of the dishes was amazing. I can not wait to see Kyoto with all this in mind.

[Kristen Pollard · Rating 3 out of 5]

A really lovely book about the intricacies of Japanese tea kaiseki. Riccardi does a fantastic job with her food and cultural descriptions, and I appreciate both her takeaways and her documentation of this cooking style in English. I'm ashamed it took me this long to get through as the story felt a bit slow at times, but overall worth it for anyone interested in Japanese cooking or culture.

[Nicole · Rating 3 out of 5]

I think I find this book hard to evaluate because I lived in Japan. Reading it brought back a lot of vivid memories so I didn't want to put it down, but I'm not sure that it was constructed well and would give me the same feeling without that experience.

[Anne · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this book in preparation for an upcoming trip to Japan. It was mesmerizing to read about Japanese culture and food in great detail. The country is far more compelling than the writer in the end, but I appreciated her detailed observations.

[Danielle Katz · Rating 4 out of 5]

Part travel journal, part cookbook, part memoir. This book, like the authors journey gets better as the pages turn. It’s rich descriptions are poetic and transporting. Any fans of Japanese culture and cuisine will enjoy this wonderful read.

[Zosia · Rating 5 out of 5]

Japan is on my travel bucket list and not being a to travel at the moment, this book is the next best thing. The history, culture and of course food comes to life here. I could practically taste each dish she describes and picture the vibrancy that is Kyoto. Now I definitely have to visit.