Ever wondered what would happen if you just forgot about all your worries and headed to a strange foreign land? What if that strange foreign land was Russia in the 1990's, a country in the midst of a brutal transition from communism to gangster neo-liberalism? This book often reads like a work of travel-lit, but it benefits from the fact that its two authors are not the usual kind of globetrotting fun-seeker. Most people wouldn't like the idea of going to a country where your enemies can have you murdered for a thousand bucks. Since this is a work in the vein of gonzo journalism (i.e. the writer abandons “neutrality”, and gratuitously injects himself into the story), it's important to know what you're getting into with Ames and Taibbi as your guides to the New Russia.
First off, Mark Ames is an unrepentant asshole, and throughout the book you will find numerous reasons to think he's a disgusting piece of dogshit. And he doesn't care: he knows who he is and he's as comfortable with it as any person can be. He has a gift for making enemies and using his upstart magazine to absolutely destroy them. Nine out of ten times they probably even deserve it. However, for Mark Ames's four chapters (Taibbi gets the other four), he tends to let his magazine take second stage, instead focusing on his sexual conquests, copious drug use, and profound hatred of America (and, by extension, its Russian outpost, the expat community). A lot of this is very ugly. Russia, for Ames, is a land where most people have given up on believing in anything. It is a land of serial killers, whores, and drunks. That Ames feels more at home amongst this crowd than among his native Americans is a little disconcerting, though entirely understandable according to his telling of the story. Ames is at one point described as a “brooding artist”, which I think is fitting.
One profound moment comes to mind. Early on in this saga, Ames, a child of American suburbia at its worst, is woken up by the sound of gunfire, and ends up spending the day wandering Moscow, which has been transformed into a battlefield. In the aftermath of this, he writes about how he suddenly feels alive for the first time. He takes pride in standing taller in the face of gunfire than the Muscovites. He finds his life feeling more real and legitimate after seeing dead bodies lying on the street.
Like Ames, you will probably find this story very entertaining, a welcome break from the mundanities of everyday life. Ames is very self-aware and plays on the fact that the reader is being cruelly entertained by the suffering of millions of Russians. There's a voyeuristic aspect to Ames's writing that should make your engagement with it more interesting than just sitting back and judging him for at times being a misogynist or imperialist or poverty tourist or selfish child or whatever else you might come up with.
Before I get to Matt Taibbi, I should mention that Edward Limonov (an eccentric Russian novelist) has a great bit part in this book. He writes hilarious articles in broken English, and while he never gets a chapter to himself (he does handle the introduction), I'm glad that Ames and Taibbi decided to feature a number of his pieces.
Taibbi's character arc makes for a nice change of pace from Ames. He arrives in Moscow as a young man who in many ways has won the genetic lottery: he's athletic, he's good looking, he's witty, he's well educated, and he comes from a good family. Despite all that, he's restless and spiritually empty. Both Ames and Taibbi come to Russia to escape their boring American lives, but when you read Taibbi's background the scary thing is it doesn't even sound that boring. Still, Taibbi comes to Moscow to roll the dice and I'm glad he did. For Taibbi, this is a journalistic coming of age story that reminded me of Hunter S. Thompson's The Rum Diaries. Taibbi quickly picks up on an ugly truth of the journalistic world: most writers are worthless hacks who do a disservice to their readers.
My favorite chapter in the entire book was the last one, titled “Hacks”, wherein Taibbi skewers virtually every English-speaking reporter in Russia. Because I enjoyed it so much, I though I would try to summarize just how much is going on here, In addition to showing some hilarious exchanges with hacks, this chapter gives us a very illuminating look into how mainstream foreign journalism “works”. And, as Taibbi's post eXile career has illuminated, it's not just our foreign coverage that has come down with an awful case of journalistic anemia.
If we think of journalism in an idealized sense, we think of a bunch of ambitious reporters fighting each other to get the big scoops and give the public important information. What's missing in English-language Russia journalism is every piece of this puzzle. The reporters are all in the same clique and are a bunch of cynical careerists who don't want to rock the boat and want to get by with a bare minimum of effort. They're all working for journalistic titans with different markets and aren't in any way in competition with each other. They're glad to copy each others work and obfuscate the truth in the name of “not confusing the reader” by challenging their preconceptions (which are themselves unfortunate remnants of cold-war propaganda) or asking them to learn about the often confusing ways by which a new kind of corruption has taken hold of Russia.
It shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone that journalistic integrity is easily compromised. Unfortunately, this isn't just the story of a few careerist hacks. There's a lot at stake here. America played a large role in Russia's reconstruction as a modern economy, and most Americans were basically lied to about what our presence there was accomplishing. What the journalistic community obscures is a country that is being robbed blind by well-connected gangsters and wealthy foreigners. This is a country where auctions of public assets are rigged to have only one well-connected bidder. This is a country where the few investigate journalists who aren't paid attack dogs for the elite are killed or beaten. And, to bring it back home, this is a country where foreign aid enriches the well-connected and does nothing for the needy poor who have been abandoned by their government. Instead of reporting any of these stories though, the reporters opted to phone in a bunch of puff pieces about the inevitable capitalistic march of progress. The mythology they perpetuated, which came crumbling down in the wake of a massive financial crisis, was that Russia was being run by a group of reformer technocrats who were working day and night to bring just laws, free elections and free-trade to a people who were hungry to be just like America. Ever heard that one before?
I want to emphasize that this is just a summary: Taibbi is acutely aware of all the details, and as he says, the devil is in the details. Taibbi names names and he breaks stories. He fights the power, and, despite working for a magazine that runs his pieces next to a perverted Chinese accountant on a quest to get laid, he actually has a few victories. He beats them at their own game. You may well walk away with the sense that Taibbi is a self-aggrandizing asshole, but I found his perspective to be very refreshing.
Unlike the last three books I've read, this one isn't perfect. The editing was flawed at times and the layout of the book at times made it difficult to read. This books features numerous articles and comics from the eXile, which at times have such a small font or are printed so dully that they are practically unreadable. Also, I would often read through a chapter, get to a break in the action, then read one of the articles and find that Ames or Taibbi had basically used the same language twice, which makes me wonder if they read the book as a whole before it went to print. I suspect that as they were writing the book they fell into familiar writing patterns, as opposed to consciously repeating themselves. Beyond just the relationship between the articles and the text, I found Ames's writing to get repetitive at times.
Overall though, I found this tale of scrappy journalists vs. the world to be a very good read.