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Longthroat Memoirs: Soups, Sex and Nigerian Taste Buds

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One of the most enduring myths on the Nigerian Femme Fatale - mammy-water, 'winch' or husband-snatcher - has to do with the cooking of fish stew ... A woman can do what she likes with a man When She knows how to satisfy his appetite for food. "Long throat Memoirs presents a sumptuous menu of essays about Nigerian food, lovingly presented by the nation's top epicurean writer. As well as a mouth-watering appraisal of the cultural politics and erotics of Nigerian cuisine, it is therefore a series of love letters to the Nigerian palate. From innovations in soup, fish as aphrodisiac and the powerful seductions of the yam, Long Throat Memoirs examines the complexities, the peculiarities, the meticulousness, and the tactility of Nigerian food. Nigeria has a strong culture of oral storytelling, myth of creation, of imaginative traversing of worlds. Long Throat Memoirs collates some of Those stories into at irresistible soup-pot, overexpressed in the flawless love language of appetite and nourishment.A sensuous testament on why, When and how Nigerians eat the food they love to eat; this book is a welcome addition to the global dining table of ideas.

357 pages, Paperback

Published October 31, 2016

39 people are currently reading
1257 people want to read

About the author

Yemisi Aribisala

2 books10 followers

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5 stars
53 (38%)
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45 (32%)
3 stars
30 (21%)
2 stars
8 (5%)
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3 (2%)
Displaying 1 - 30 of 31 reviews
Profile Image for Bukola.
115 reviews14 followers
December 11, 2017
Aribisala writes about Nigerian ingredients and soups in the way one would a lover, a person whose tricks, tastes, and curves are as known and dear as one’s own body. She showcases the dynamic, larger-than-life personality of Nigerian food and seats it on its own throne among food royalty.

In each essay, every recipe or pot of soup she talks about, she describes every detail so exquisitely that as you read, you can taste the crunchy, bursting seeds of green, fresh, perfectly made okro, and the tasty deliciousness of king prawns added just at the right minute to soup.

Long throat memoirs is more than an ode to Nigerian soups; it is a slow, sensuous undressing, a revelation of the savory goodness and bursts of pleasure that can be achieved with the right ingredients. It is also a dip in the rich ponds of Nigerian history and the diverse indigenous cultures.

And what is to be said about the writing? Read this. “I can hear how the sentence ricochets in the mind, and taste how revolutionary it is in the mouth. the words are English but they are not. I feel proud to be a Nigerian in this sense. we can acquire and own an idea, a thing or a word and invade its body like a spirit, thereby changing its face, moving the facial muscles and creating a new personality. someone confronts the face and asks, ‘Who are you again?’ And it answers, “The same person. The very same.”But it is not. We have possessed it.” She conjures up 3-dimensional images with her words, the choice, rhythm, and placement of them.

With wit, excellent anecdotes, and a dash of irreverence, Yemisi Aribisala has unveiled the true essence of Nigerian cooking.
Profile Image for K.J. Charles.
Author 65 books12.1k followers
pass
January 23, 2018
Some really wonderful bits of writing, and some fantastic essays. Very culturally specific and I'm not getting a lot of it because I don't know Nigerian food. I suspect it would be amazing if you do, but lyrical food descriptions generally require reader knowledge to work. My loss. If I ever get to go to Nigeria I'm bringing this.
Profile Image for Shawn Mooney (Shawn Breathes Books).
707 reviews718 followers
did-not-finish
October 9, 2017
Bailed 12% of the way in. Fun and energetic but too detailed and loooong for me, especially not knowing anything about Nigerian food or most of the vegetables, spices, or other ingredients she rhapsodizes about. Might go back to it later...
8 reviews6 followers
February 24, 2019
The language in this book is beautiful at times but but a casual bit of homophobia inside made me put this down.
Profile Image for ekenechukwu .
40 reviews
January 20, 2020
Beautiful.
[edit because I didn't know what to write when I finished this]:

Longthroat memoirs is a beautiful & special book whose main concern is Nigerian food, its gastronomic features, and its importance, pertaining to Nigerians and the world at large. It's a book I'm probably going to read multiple times throughout my life -for reference and for pleasure.

Nigerian food (specifically, soups. Please stop talking about Jollof rice) really is the most amazing thing a person can create in a pot, and another can have slide through their taste buds and down into their throat(I consider myself ”an authority" on food so..shh), and to have a book filled with essays dedicated to, and written about the *best* cuisine on the planet, with as much luster & detail as these are, is a charitable service for Nigerians and non-nigerians alike who ever embraced the notion -no matter how furtively- that our food is 'bland', 'boring' or 'disgusting' (never heard anyone dare to say this but there's probably some white man out there who has).

The experience of eating, and appreciating the taste of -any- food probably is the most evanescent -right after the feeling of waking up- that people go through on a daily basis, and being able to articulate one's sensory experience in speech is difficult enough, talk less of in writing. I firmly believe that anyone who has this gift, and chooses to share it with the world, should be lauded till they're red, as it's a rare & unsubstitutable one that *cannot* be reduced to being "a common trait among good writers". No. Writing about taste is a whole different ball game. The task of using simple adjectives that will be recognizable to the least voracious readers, to bring to mind long forgotten -in my case- or unknown gustatory experiences, isn't one that can be achieved by just any "good writer". It's a rare blessing that I'd do anything to be deigned upon me.

Yemi Aribisala uses stories about food & sex to discuss so much central to the experience of being a Nigerian, she uses these stories to elucidate the sources of myths-as she did with the Cross Riverian "mammywata"-, question the often parochial patriotism practiced by most Nigerians, and bring to mind the nature of tensions both malevolent and benign, that are familiar to us all (again, Nigerians.)- from the ideological battle of the sexes between men and women who refuse to be subservient, to the intertribal conflicts that often end up with harrowing consequences. Ms. Aribisala digs into all.
In fact, one of these -Dead man's helmet- is so well written, it's still a little too much for me to stomach at the moment, as its subject, the Biafran War, isn't one I gain much pleasure reading about -in fact, I believe my ability to stomach stories about this topic is inversely proportional to the quality of prose utilized- and so I postponed reading that essay for the near future.

All in all, it's a really beautiful book I'd urge any Nigerian or foreigner with the slightest love for our food to read. It's funny, informative about things you've probably thought about and are yet to receive answers to, and quite a pleasure to read. Oh, and most importantly, it includes some really interesting recepies that are sure to wipe away any thoughts of Nigerian food being too rigid. A subtext underlying every essay in this book is that experimentation is good, in every aspect of our lives.
Profile Image for Literary Everything.
83 reviews8 followers
May 20, 2018
Longthroat Memoirs gets top marks for originality. Yemisi identifies a “gap in the market” and sets out to discuss this gap and she does a good job of it. In the book, we read about Nigerian food and the stories behind the food. So, it’s not just a recipe book of Nigerian foods, it looks at the relationship between food and culture and also serves as a travelogue about some parts of Southern Nigeria. Read the full review https://literaryeverything.com/2018/0...
Profile Image for Ayooluwa.
45 reviews9 followers
August 20, 2020
Longthroat Memoirs is a lyrical compilation of essays about Nigerian food – primarily food enjoyed by Cross Riverians and their other South-Eastern counterparts. It's more of a memoir than a cookbook, which I should've guessed given its title, but in my defence I found it in the cookbook section of my local bookstore. Though Longthroat Memoirs features some recipes, I found that the recipes weren’t detailed enough for me.

I really enjoyed this book. I never thought that someone could love food as much as Aribisala. The essays were sometimes funny, and largely relatable. The "Eating Dog" chapter which talks about people’s unwillingness to admit that they eat dog meat, was one of my favourites because I had a similar experience when I visited Calabar a couple years ago. Everyone denied eating dog meat (fondly called 404) or claimed to have only eaten it in the past, but the restaurants that specialised in 404 always looked bustling when we drove by.

My only problem with this book is that it doesn't really explore all the aspects of Nigerian cuisine. More attention is focused on Southern Nigerian food, and there was only one chapter about Northern Nigerian food in the whole book. It seemed almost like an afterthought, and lacked the lyricism of the earlier chapters. Nevertheless, I'd recommend this book for anyone who's curious about Nigerian food.

Check out my blog thelitafrican.com for more book reviews :)
Profile Image for gee.
218 reviews11 followers
February 20, 2020
I enjoyed this book. It was eye opening to learn about ingredients and dishes that I had no idea about! We need more books like these. Books that revel in local cuisine from developing countries - African countries in particular. My only exposure to "African food" has been Ethiopian food. I have heard of jollof rice but never tasted it and I knew a little bit about pepper stew only because I have a Nigerian colleague. What a crying shame though! Such a wasted opportunity.

I too want to eat peppered snails and okro stew (I love my bhindi but have never eaten it in soup form). I want to try egusi, gari and fermented locust beans and afang and stockfish head. I was fascinated by the description of earthenware pots and how they retain flavor for years. In all, lots of great stuff that I'll be thinking about and hoping to try sometime in the future!
Profile Image for Briar.
296 reviews11 followers
December 8, 2017
Yemisi Aribisala clearly loves food. So do I (but I definitely don't have her talent with it!). And I love learning about food I don't know about and cultures and people I don't know about, so I enjoyed this book very much. I love the way she talks about Nigerian food; it's really fascinating.
Profile Image for Folio Review.
53 reviews4 followers
November 22, 2021
Yemisi Aribisala’s Longthroat Memoirs is a refreshing diary about Nigerian food, culture, and history.

Aribisala takes on a multi-ethnic approach, focusing on different Nigerian food and the Black British experience.

Each chapter introduces new meals wrapped up in history, creativity, rumours and opinions. Aribisala explores the connotations of food like dog meat, and snail.

With a witty and tongue-in-cheek approach, Aribisala debunks the racist belief that Africans eat bones. She also corrects the notion that Nigerian food is limited to rice, eba, beans, and some vegetable soups.

According to Yemisi Aribisala, Nigerian food is as diverse as it is tasty. Focusing on Calabar and Yoruba meals, the author gives recipes that introduce readers to new meals, while putting a spin on staple Nigerian foods.

I enjoyed reading about the myths associated with some ingredients that go into a pot of soup. It was also interesting to know I’m not the only one that finds the measurements system in Nigeria very amusing. Every Nigerian knows that adding salt and seasoning to food is through the guidance of the “spirits” instead of being subjected to measuring cups and spoons.

Reusing cooking oil and being led by the spirits when adding seasoning to food has become the mainframe of Nigerian cooking culture. Longthroat Memoirs explores why such a mindset is a Nigerian thing, further explaining how food reflects culture.

Anyone that says food is unimportant needs to read Longthroat Memoirs to understand it goes deeper than putting a meal on the table or grocery shopping.

For Aribisala, food is beyond feeding and healthy living. It’s more about a shared experience that nobody else understands. She emphasises this when she talks about the smell of food.

In terms of creativity, information and editing, Aribisala’s book is flawless. I want to read more from her. I loved the fact that she featured pictures of ingredients in her. This helped me know the difference between iru and dawadawa, a necessary distinction that I’ll be forever grateful for.

With themes of feminism, appropriation of black culture, race and more, Longthroat Memoirs goes beyond a cookbook.

However, I’d have loved to see food recipes from other parts of Nigeria, like Northern Nigeria and the South-South.

Nonetheless, Longthroat Memoirs packs a punch and is very relatable.

I recommend it to anybody that likes hilarity, information, history, culture and food. It’s a wrap up of interesting stories, and it’s my favourite book right now.

***
Originally published on https://folioreview.wordpress.com
Profile Image for Child960801.
2,801 reviews
December 10, 2021
I picked up this book for the Book Riot Read Harder Challenge this year knowing absolutely nothing about Nigerian cooking. Now, I know slightly more. I was clearly not the target audience for this book, because there were lots of terms that she used or foods that she mentioned that I literally had no idea at all about. Still, I'm glad I read this book. It reminded me that the world is so much bigger than we think it is.

This book is a series of essays about Nigeria and the food there. One that particularly hit me was in the later part of the book where the author talked about living in the UK and being invited to parties and being so very disappointed because what she expected as party food and what the hosts were offering were very different things.

CW: The subtitle says it's about sex and there is absolutely sex in this book and explicit language.
Profile Image for Agatoni.
54 reviews1 follower
May 4, 2019
3.5 stars

Yemisi Aribisala writes freshly + defiantly (not in this book: “it was not my fault if I looked like butter would not melt in my mouth, like innocence and benevolence in a food processor”).

Read this after reading “Bad Woman Meat Pies”, the author's essay which is a perfect blend of recipe + social commentary.

The essays in this book are just as well-crafted but to their detriment, more food less food for thought.
Profile Image for HazzyHaz.
1 review
July 13, 2020
Absolutely loved this style of food writing which tells a story behind ingredients and recipes also linking to the cultures. It’s a hard read if like me, you don’t know a lot about Naija food. It’s clearly written for the Nigerian audience but still works, particularly if you are from an African background. I found some of the vocabulary to be too deep English, almost for effect, when simpler words would’ve been more efficient. Great read still
58 reviews6 followers
July 5, 2021
Yemisi writes so well. Even thinking about her words makes you hungry and your mouth salivate. reading them, you pause to catch your breath and consume the essays in doses to allow them breathe in your mind like wine. The subject matter is interesting and she more than does justice to it with her writing. The stories make you giggle, the descriptions excite you. I love this book!
I will keep revisiting the essays in this book and her writing elsewhere.
Profile Image for Omolola Ogunyemi.
Author 1 book145 followers
July 2, 2022
Aribisala has put together a rich series of essays on Nigerian culture as experienced through its wide variety of cuisines, with a particular focus on food from the Calabar region. This book made me laugh, cry, and get very hungry. I savored each page, enjoying it so much that I put off reading the last essay for as long as I could, because I didn't want the book to end.
Profile Image for Maggie.
725 reviews
Read
March 10, 2024
Fascinating book. I picked it up knowing nearly nothing about Nigerian food, or the part of Nigeria Aríbisálà is from. She writes with savor and flair, imparting mouthfeel and flavor with her words. And the mind-expanding experience of reading about food in which I know a mere handful of the ingredients was wonderful.
Profile Image for Aditya Palacharla.
40 reviews2 followers
June 19, 2024
This book took me a while to get into, especially with the short story format. It was really interesting and cool to learn about Nigerian food. I want to go to Nigeria and try all the different foods and then read this book again. I liked how it also talked about the culture and unwritten / unspoken things associated with the foods. I'm also curious how Nigerian food has evolved too.
Profile Image for Margery Osborne.
690 reviews4 followers
October 8, 2020
Really enjoyed the patois and observations of the marketplace(s) in Nigeria and the food culture. going to try the author's version of jollof rice (my previous attempt was from Marcus Samuelson). am *not* going to try her okra soup...I like my okra crunchy!
Profile Image for Maniki_021.
156 reviews1 follower
April 29, 2024
A perspective on Nigerian food culture and its place in society. Whether you're a food enthusiast or simply curious about Nigerian cuisine perhaps this could work out for you. The only thing i loved about it were the recipes otherwise it didn't work out for me.
Profile Image for Fatou.
107 reviews
August 27, 2017
To like this book you need to be a foodie who is in love with Africa. And I am happy to be one. It may also appear to people interested in exotic foods and food writing in general.
Profile Image for Sally.
341 reviews3 followers
December 7, 2019
I did not finish this book before it had to be returned to the library. I *did* make the jollof rice and it was delicious.
Profile Image for Sarah Swedberg.
442 reviews5 followers
April 17, 2021
I thought I would love this book but I didn’t. It had its moments but I found it tedious. I had to really work to make myself finish it.
Profile Image for Eephie.
27 reviews
March 3, 2022
There are lots of anecdotes about daily life and Yemisi Aribisala weaves these into the tales of Nigerian food and she presents this to you in a way that stirs your longing for something familiar.
Profile Image for Mark.
95 reviews1 follower
May 1, 2023
Wow, It's been ages, if ever, since I encountered such evocative writing. I'm not a foodie, although I've read some of the great food writers in the distant past and yet....this is beyond....
2 reviews
Read
March 4, 2019
This book is an in-depth into the culture and people surrounding Nigerian food
It may be a difficult read if you're not Nigerian as the author is unapologetic about the use of local names and terms. It reads as a romance between the author and the authenticity of Nigerian food cooked with the vital ingredients and not substitutes. In between pages of the love letter, you would find a recipe here or there.
The author is not opposed to experimenting and adding individuality to the food, but she polices that line with a fine whip. It's nothing like i expected it to be.
The “sex” bit of the book was all but necessary and at some parts of the book especially in the last third of it, the book felt like it was dragging on. I loved the first 100 pages or so, the rest of it was just okay
Profile Image for enyanyo.
248 reviews1 follower
May 26, 2018
Our soups are some of the best-kept secrets in the world. While the rest of the world has gone on and on about their cuisines, we have remained mute, with out mouths full of food. We love our food but we've not tried to win the world over with it.

Yemisi Aribisala's chronicling of the vastness and complexity of Nigerian cuisine is such a delectable read. You can tell the author is a foodie at heart. Longthroat Memoirs: Soups, Sex and Nigerian Taste Buds weaves together love, sex, history, recipes, spice blends, tales of market-place adventures, home cooking, street food, deep-seated tradition, and family relationships. And the pictures are gorgeous! If you're interested in West African cuisine you will very likely enjoy this.
Profile Image for Lindsey.
413 reviews19 followers
July 19, 2018
I know nothing about Nigerian culture or food but I do love food, and I love reading about food. I don't know whether Yemisi Aribisala can cook well but damn can she write. I flew through this book in a handful of days. I am, by no means, a picky eater but there are certain foods that instinctively gross me out just by virtue of being American. But Yemisi made snails sound delicious. She made okra (that hasn't been fried - I'm Southern) sound delicious. I bookmarked all of the recipes and researched the best place to find the ingredients in my area (believe it or not, I was able to find almost every ingredient she used without much trouble or without having to use substitutions). I love the age we live in where a Nigerian food writer, with whom I would never otherwise have come into contact, can have a book of her writings collected by an independent publisher, and which I can have access to. I love that connection.

I received an ARC of this book in exchange for an honest review.
9 reviews
July 22, 2021
Excellent read about a personal life and recipes from Nigeria. So very well written. I've read some passages several times just to absorbe the meaning of the words of Yemisi better and better.
Love it.
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