Take one top New York restaurant, add danger, drama, and dialogue, toss in their best recipes, and you have a cooking classic.
How does a 4-star restaurant stay on top for more than two decades? In On the Line , chef Eric Ripert takes readers behind the scenes at Le Bernardin, one of just three New York City restaurants to earn three Michelin stars. Any fan of gourmet dining who ever stole a peek behind a restaurant kitchen's swinging doors will love this unique insider's account, with its interviews, inventory checklists, and fly-on-the-wall dialogue that bring the business of haute cuisine to life.
From the sudden death of Le Bernardin's founding chef, Gilbert Le Coze, to Ripert's stressful but triumphant takeover of the kitchen at age 29, the story has plenty of drama. But as Chef Ripert and writer Christine Muhlke reveal, every day is an adventure in a perfectionistic restaurant kitchen. Foodies will love reading about the inner workings of a top restaurant, from how a kitchen is organized to the real cost of the food and the fierce discipline and organization it takes to achieve culinary perfection on the plate almost 150,000 times a year.
Meanwhile, Le Bernardin's modern French cuisine, with its emphasis on seafood, comes to life in sophisticated recipes, including Striped Bass with Sweet Corn Puree, Grilled Shishito Peppers, Shaved Smoked Bonito, and Mole Sauce, and Pan-Roasted Cod with Chorizo, Snow Peas, Piquillo Peppers, and Soy-Lime Butter Sauce.
Eric Ripert is grateful for his early exposure to two cuisines—that of Antibes, France, where he was born, and of Andorra, a small country just over the Spanish border, where he moved as a young child. His family instilled their own passion for food in the young Ripert, and at the age of 15, he left home to attend culinary school in Perpignan. At 17, he moved to Paris and cooked at the legendary La Tour D’Argent before taking a position at the Michelin three-starred Jamin. After fulfilling his military service, Ripert returned to Jamin under Joel Robuchon to serve as chef poissonier.
In 1989, Ripert seized the opportunity to work under Jean-Louis Palladin as sous-chef at Jean Louis at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, D.C. Ripert moved to New York in 1991, working briefly as David Bouley’s sous-chef before Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze recruited him as chef for Le Bernardin. Ripert has since firmly established himself as one of New York’s—and the world’s—great chefs.
In 1995, at just 29 years old, Ripert earned a four-star rating from the The New York Times. Ten years later and for the fourth consecutive time, Le Bernardin again earned the The New York Times’ highest rating of four stars, becoming the only restaurant to maintain this superior status for this length of time, without ever dropping a star.
In 1997, GQ named Le Bernardin the best restaurant in America, and in 2007, the magazine named Le Bernardin one of “Seven Food Temples of the World.” In 2005, New York Magazine declared Le Bernardin the #1 restaurant in the city, awarding it 5 five stars in its inaugural restaurant rating issue—a position it still holds today. Also in 2005, Bon Appétit declared Ripert’s Butter-Poached Lobster with Tarragon and Champagne its “Dish of the Year.”
Le Bernardin continues to receive universal critical acclaim for its food and service. The Michelin Guide, which made its New York debut in 2005, honored Chef Ripert and Le Bernardin with its highest rating of 3 three stars in 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008. The Zagat Guide has recognized the restaurant as the “Best Food” in New York City for the last eight consecutive years. In 1998, the James Beard Foundation named Le Bernardin “Outstanding Restaurant of the Year” and Eric Ripert “Top Chef in New York City.” In 1999, the restaurant received the “Outstanding Service” award from the Beard Foundation, and in 2003, the Foundation foundation named Ripert “Outstanding Chef in the United States.” In 2009 Ripert was granted the rank of Chevallier in France’s Légion d’Honneur.
Ripert has served as guest judge (and “fan favorite”) on Bravo’s Top Chef for two seasons and has appeared on the Late Show with David Letterman, The Charlie Rose Show, The Ellen DeGeneres Show, TODAY, Live with Regis and Kelly, and The Martha Stewart Show. In fall 2008, Ripert published On The Line with Artisan, his second book with the publisher. Ripert will star in his own television series, AVEC ERIC, airing on public television in September of 2009.
Ripert is the chair of City Harvest’s Food Council, working to bring together New York’s top chefs and restaurateurs to raise funds and increase the quality and quantity of food donations to New York’s neediest. When not in the kitchen, Ripert enjoys good tequila and peace and quiet. He lives on the Upper East Side and Sag Harbor with his wife and young son
This book is a fairytale type of book for someone like me. I would love to one day travel to New York and eat at Le Bernardin. Will that ever happen? Unlikely. But in the meantime, I have this book. Filled with gorgeous photos of food and recipes that I could probably never recreate (although I am going to try the sweet corn sorbet in the summer), this book takes you behind the scenes of an incredibly successful Michelin restaurant.
We get the details of the kitchen, including all the positions, the stations, how each station works and each person who is the key to that station. We meet the executive pastry chef, the Chef de Cuisine (second in command to Ripert - the Executive Chef), and everyone who makes up Le Bernardin, including the waiters and maitre de. Everyone in the restaurant is clearly important to the success and Ripert gives everyone equal credit.
All of the details of the costs of running the restaurant, the charity work, everything is touched on in this book. Did I mention the gorgeous pictures of the food??
I expected to like this far more than I actually did. It wasn't that there was anything wrong with it; it was a great insight into how a world-class restaurant runs, and a lot of the history behind it. It just, well, wasn't sensational. I love Eric Ripert and am glad to add this to my collection, even if I don't think I'll be cooking the recipes he provided.
A very interesting treatise on what it takes to be one of the best in hospitality. I highly recommend this book to anyone looking to improve their skills in presentation. There are some great insights here as well as some outstanding pictures and recipies.
One of the Best Books Ever About How a Restaurant Really Functions
This is without a doubt one of the very best looks inside a restaurant, in this case the Michelin rated Le Bernardin in New York City. Like many a cookbook, it is the tale of the early efforts of the founders (in this case a brother and sister who had a modest bistro in Paris), their successes (positive reviews led to American patrons), their move to a New York stage. And then young chef Eric Ripert enters, to take over, and build upon these successes to create what is generally regarded as the best seafood-centered restaurant in New York.
And like many other celebrity chefs, Ripert provides recipes and insights into what goes upon the plate. For that alone, this would be a worthwhile acquisition for any serious cook.
But what sets this book apart from the long list of "name" chef books in recent years are the many sidebar pieces and profiles of the people who contribute to the daily operation of a successful restaurant. We meet the porter who arrives to inspect the daily deliveries of produce, fish, and meats (including amounts and prices). The dishwashers who labor behind the scenes to wash the pots, pans, fine china, and crystal. The sommelier, the host, the servers, the many kitchen stations, chefs, apprentices, and specialists who all play a role in meal preparation.
We are shown the floor plan for the many cooking stations, refrigerators, ovens, etc., that come into play to prepare your meal.
There is even an minute by minute breakdown of several of the functions, to show how this is a coordinated effort aimed at providing a great meal, to each and every customer.
There are many cookbooks and many alleged insiders guides to the heart of a chef; but On the Line is easily the most thorough portrayal of all that goes into making a great restaurant work like Le Benardin.
This book is TOP quality! It is a delight to the eye with lots and lots of fabulous, artsy photos and is a very interesting read but would be great just sitting out to browse through too.
I read the book cover to cover and really enjoyed all the facts about running a top quality restaurant, the number of people involved just with accepting the raw food from the sellers, the amount of table linens, the wine cellars incredible inventory, what they do with the leftover food...
The book starts with the history of restaurant Le Bernadin, "that caused a shift not only in how New Yorkers perceived French restaurants, but also in how Americans ate fish." And there is a lot of information and recipes for seafood, salmon, tune, fluke, hamachi, oysters, crab... but great desserts are included too.
But wait, there's more, it gives you some very helpful information and tips for restaurants but is also really practical for the home entertainer as well. We get an interesting run down on the pastry chef, the wine director, and maitre d'. For example, maitre d' Ben Chekroun lists 129 cardinal sins of good service: Forks with bent tines, improperly chilled beer or wine, incomplete orders, walking past items dropped on the floor!!
The book is well organized and very easy to read, fascinating to read. The chapter, " In The Kitchen " does what it says, takes you in the kitchen, decodes the language of the kitchen, sous-chef, tournant, gives you a sensible kitchen lay out and an example of schedules for preparing the food, and what they keep in those huge refrigerators.
Really a very interesting book if you are interested in food or what make a restaurant run smoothly and serve incredible food, six million dollars worth of food!
"The stations,the heat,the cooks,the costs,the chaos and the triumphs" That's on the cover and pretty much sums up this book.It's Ripert's tale of the history of Le Bernadin,one of the best restaurants in the USA.This book is amazing.He details the daily schedules of everyone there and shows appreciation for them.Photos are incredible.The second half of the book is recipes and hand drawn pictures of dishes.Tons of "trivia" in the borders of every page.Like that the saucier uses 10 # of shallots each day.A great insight if you've never worked in a restaurant,especially a place like this. I've eaten at French Laundry (twice),La Folie,Commander's Palace,Ritz Carlton and I need to go to Le Bernadin.All I need is a rich girlfriend. I've read this three times already. Found out recently that an old college buddy is a sous chef there.Maybe I can mooch some tastes.
Excellent book and a peek inside the kitchen/front house at the NY institution Le Bernardin. Wonderful recipes, particularly for pastries. I wouldn't attempt many of the entrees unless I lived or was on a coast. It's difficult for most restaurants to get fish as fresh as it needs to be to begin to approach the quality of the food served at Bernardin. That doesn't mean you can't try, or buy a fishing boat!
A nice glimpse into the fine-dining world of Le Bernardin (circa 2008). The photography is great, and the text covers quite a lot of aspects of the restaurant's functioning. It does gloss over certain details, though. Maybe a few less recipes and a few more pages of history would have been in order?
For what it's worth, I've been to Le Bernardin for dinner only once, quite a long time ago. After reading this book I totally want to go eat there again right now.
I am such a sad sad foodie. I loved reading this book at bedtime and dreaming about cooking. Suffice it to say if you're interested in the exact details of how to run a four star restaurant, and the recipes this book is for you.
What a GREAT BOOK! I love reading about restaurants and this had it all...everything that happens behind the scenes of a great place, the jobs, the people, the trivia, how it is organized. Just wonderful.
In a book of two parts, Rippert first discloses the intricate workings of a top-drawer fish restaurant in New York City, then offers a large number of recipes (which appear simplified to me) for dishes actually on Le Bernardin's menu.
I thought this book would be more along the lines of Bill Buford's Heat - a behind look at a famous chef's famous restaurant. Instead it was just lots of facts and figures. Interesting if you're a foodie but not really revelatory at all. It did have a lot of recipes.
Well written and gave homage to an iconic New York restaraunt. Although, I have never been there, if given the chance, I would do so. This book has inspired me.