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Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict
• A memoir of adventure in one of the most dangerous places on the planet
• The Karakoram is home to K2, the deadliest of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks
The best mountain climbing in the world, Steve Swenson will tell you, is in the Karakoram. Swenson has been climbing in these mountains since 1980 and has a perspective on the land and its people like few others. A complex place, the Karakoram Range is located in Kashmir, a western Himalaya border region that has a long history of tension and conflict between China, India, and Pakistan, tensions that have only been magnified since 9/11. Over the course of more than thirty years climbing there, Swenson’s experiences have been laced with daunting challenges, exhilarating successes, and terrifying moments―caused by the risks inherent in alpine environments, as well as politics below spilling into the peaks above.
In Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict , Swenson writes evocatively of his naiveté on his first visit to Pakistan for an attempt on Gasherbrum IV, during which he faced the teeming, bewildering streets of Islamabad and new challenges of dealing with a confusing array of bureaucrats, hiring hundreds of porters desperate for work, as well as the business of attempting to climb a towering peak just shy of 8,000 meters. By 2015 when he invited climbers to join him on an attempt of K6, Swenson had become the old-hand; it was his familiarity with the region that got them through the planning, the trek, and the climb.
Even as he managed a busy career and family at home, Swenson returned to the region more than a dozen times, making attempts on well known giants such as K2, Everest, and Nanga Parbat, as well as other, less familiar, peaks. While he often succeeded, he was often turned back, forced from the mountains by weather, failed logistics, fractured team dynamics, or unexpected skirmishes in the region. What drew him, again and again, was that he always learned something new and forged strong bonds with his climbing partners, including Doug Scott, Alex Lowe, Steve House, and others. Stronger still became his friendship with Haji Ghulam Rasool, a local Balti man whom he first met as a young cook in 1984. Rasool and other Pakistanis have served as Swenson’s window on this restive region, revealing how territorial conflicts can affect not just international climbing expeditions, but also the day-to-day livelihood of the local people.
Karakoram is Swenson’s personal story of adventure in one of the most dangerous mountain environments on the planet. His love of climbing led him to these summits; his deep respect for the rugged landscapes and local people inspire his return.
• The Karakoram is home to K2, the deadliest of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks
The best mountain climbing in the world, Steve Swenson will tell you, is in the Karakoram. Swenson has been climbing in these mountains since 1980 and has a perspective on the land and its people like few others. A complex place, the Karakoram Range is located in Kashmir, a western Himalaya border region that has a long history of tension and conflict between China, India, and Pakistan, tensions that have only been magnified since 9/11. Over the course of more than thirty years climbing there, Swenson’s experiences have been laced with daunting challenges, exhilarating successes, and terrifying moments―caused by the risks inherent in alpine environments, as well as politics below spilling into the peaks above.
In Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict , Swenson writes evocatively of his naiveté on his first visit to Pakistan for an attempt on Gasherbrum IV, during which he faced the teeming, bewildering streets of Islamabad and new challenges of dealing with a confusing array of bureaucrats, hiring hundreds of porters desperate for work, as well as the business of attempting to climb a towering peak just shy of 8,000 meters. By 2015 when he invited climbers to join him on an attempt of K6, Swenson had become the old-hand; it was his familiarity with the region that got them through the planning, the trek, and the climb.
Even as he managed a busy career and family at home, Swenson returned to the region more than a dozen times, making attempts on well known giants such as K2, Everest, and Nanga Parbat, as well as other, less familiar, peaks. While he often succeeded, he was often turned back, forced from the mountains by weather, failed logistics, fractured team dynamics, or unexpected skirmishes in the region. What drew him, again and again, was that he always learned something new and forged strong bonds with his climbing partners, including Doug Scott, Alex Lowe, Steve House, and others. Stronger still became his friendship with Haji Ghulam Rasool, a local Balti man whom he first met as a young cook in 1984. Rasool and other Pakistanis have served as Swenson’s window on this restive region, revealing how territorial conflicts can affect not just international climbing expeditions, but also the day-to-day livelihood of the local people.
Karakoram is Swenson’s personal story of adventure in one of the most dangerous mountain environments on the planet. His love of climbing led him to these summits; his deep respect for the rugged landscapes and local people inspire his return.
320 pages, Hardcover
First published April 1, 2017
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461 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 12 of 12 reviews
June 26, 2017
Awe inspiring. Such a fun read and such a detailed, vivid recount of the technical climbing routes these guys are establishing in the Karakoram. Great balance of climbing action, interesting trip reporting, and political observations in the middle east. Enjoyed every page of it.
November 16, 2020
Fascinating journey of mountain climbing over decades. I liked it, but unless this is a niche interest this book may not be interesting. The camaraderie on the trips is great, as is the outsider commentary on the political conflict. It never gets deep enough to provide more than anecdotal understanding. I learned a bit about alpine climbing and the technical aspects of the sport. Swenson is a good writer, definitely an engineer, and his influence on the economy in the region and on the sport is compelling.
January 14, 2019
An excellent mountaineering book, especially considering this is Swenson's first book. The climbing descriptions are often exciting. The stories of friendships made are heartfelt. The descriptions of political in the region are illuminating, educating and at times disturbing. Most of all, I enjoyed the feeling of the adventure and excitement of these climbs to mostly lesser known peaks. A fine work.
November 30, 2021
I enjoyed this book because of Steve’s character seen through from his narrative of these adventures.
I got to know this book from Alex Honnold’s podcast Climbing Gold, and there Alex advertised Steve Swenson as the unique tier-1 mountaineer who hold his climbing career, business and family in an unprecedented balance. This is true.
Steve, unlike many many reckless, extreme mountaineers, focuses on the long game of climbing by caring tremendously about everyone on the team, and great attention to details. For example, one time when his cook Rasool has to spend some time with his wife, Steve paid Rasool during his stay off the mountains, so that Rasool could really feel okay with not climbing. For another instance, when three or four of them were doing the Nanga Parjat peak, Steve gave a speech that acknowledged everyone’s effort before pointing out what the need to do for further success. Humble, considerate, and full of perspective, he places the team in front of his own ego and climbing bucketlist.
My only complaints about this book are rather expositional. The book felt like a pile of well-written trip reports stapled together — well-written in the sense that the monologues and inner workings of Steven do read like they were written later. But the organization of paragraphs were chaotic and lacking focus, albeit chronologically-ordered.
Steve also made off-handed remarks on a group of female climbers’ looks before commenting on their climbing abilities. This is in stark contrast to his comment on his male climbers is always climbing ability related.
I got to know this book from Alex Honnold’s podcast Climbing Gold, and there Alex advertised Steve Swenson as the unique tier-1 mountaineer who hold his climbing career, business and family in an unprecedented balance. This is true.
Steve, unlike many many reckless, extreme mountaineers, focuses on the long game of climbing by caring tremendously about everyone on the team, and great attention to details. For example, one time when his cook Rasool has to spend some time with his wife, Steve paid Rasool during his stay off the mountains, so that Rasool could really feel okay with not climbing. For another instance, when three or four of them were doing the Nanga Parjat peak, Steve gave a speech that acknowledged everyone’s effort before pointing out what the need to do for further success. Humble, considerate, and full of perspective, he places the team in front of his own ego and climbing bucketlist.
My only complaints about this book are rather expositional. The book felt like a pile of well-written trip reports stapled together — well-written in the sense that the monologues and inner workings of Steven do read like they were written later. But the organization of paragraphs were chaotic and lacking focus, albeit chronologically-ordered.
Steve also made off-handed remarks on a group of female climbers’ looks before commenting on their climbing abilities. This is in stark contrast to his comment on his male climbers is always climbing ability related.
August 2, 2023
Of course so much goes into climbing the peaks in these ranges. But even I didn't realize how much. Not to mention the dangers from political conflict. I will admit while I knew the area was dangerous I was shocked with how ignorant I was to why. Not only do I understand why that area is struggling so much with the terrorist - I also now understand it is actually still a safe enough area and these talks of terrorist actually hurt the communities surrounding these ranges because the tourist are too afraid (or unable) to visit. Not only has this book inspired me in my own climbing - I am also inspired to research and understand the history and politics and how they impact countries I might not understand well enough.
Also - Steve personally gave me a signed copy of this book. Thank you, Steve! You are a wonderful climber and person worthy of all the awards you have won and more!!!
Also - Steve personally gave me a signed copy of this book. Thank you, Steve! You are a wonderful climber and person worthy of all the awards you have won and more!!!
September 12, 2017
This book is source of inspiration for me. I met Steve in 2015 while he was in Nanghama Valley since then I know him,his book is full of ascent achievements and the war accounts of the region.
The first few chapters really felt like I was Steve the way he failed on Gashabrum IV and kept coming back and back the book really portray how he evolved in the process until the end of the book.Although if some photos of the routes were added to the book would have been better.
The first few chapters really felt like I was Steve the way he failed on Gashabrum IV and kept coming back and back the book really portray how he evolved in the process until the end of the book.Although if some photos of the routes were added to the book would have been better.
March 19, 2020
Kun on viettänyt sattuneista syistä pitkiä aikoja kotona, kirja vuoriseikkailuista on ollut hyvää seuraa. Kertomukset retkikunnista Pakistaniin luotaavat hyvin niin Kashmirin herkkää poliittista tilannetta kuin kiipeilyn onnistumisten ja epäonnistumisten käsittelyä. Swenson arvioi hyvin retkikuntien toimivuutta ja dynamiikkaa ja kuvaa tyylikkäästi ja syyttelemättä myös niitä kertoja, kun asiat eivät ole sujuneet.
June 26, 2018
I enjoyed this book about the history of the authors years climbing. The politics he has to deal with over time are fascinating. That alone, paired with the team building across nations are worth the read.
April 15, 2021
Steve Swenson is an all-around human being who managed to be world class at practically everything he did, including climbing the biggest mountains in the world in Pakistan, India and Nepal. If you're into climbing, mountains and exploration, you will love this book!
November 6, 2023
I absolutely love mountaineering and although I haven't had the opportunity to go to the Karakorams or the Himalayas it is surreal to even read about them. This book was a brief summation of his Mountaineering career and it had amazing stories and fascinating insights.
October 31, 2017
A story about Climbing in Asia during the time of Conflict
June 6, 2020
Great book. My question is, how do they do all those rappells? Are they leaving slings and carabiners all the way down?
Displaying 1 - 12 of 12 reviews