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পর্বতের নেশায় অদম্য প্রাণ
কাজী আনোয়ার হোসেনের ভূমিকা -
লাটভিয়ান ও জার্মান পিতামাতার ঘরে ১৯৫৯ সালের ২২ জুলাই আমেরিকার ফোর্ট ওয়েইন, ইন্ডিয়ানায় জন্মগ্রহণ করেন এডমান্ড ভিস্টার্স (Edmund Viesturs)। এড ভিশ্চার্স নামেই তিনি বেশি পরিচিত।
১৮ বছরের অক্লান্ত চেষ্টায় বিখ্যাত আমেরিকান পর্বতারোহী এড ভিস্টার্স জয় করেছেন মাউন্ট এভারেস্টসহ পৃথিবীর সবচেয়ে উঁচু ১৪টি দুর্গম পর্বতচূড়া। অল্পবয়স থেকেই নিষ্ঠা ও ধৈর্যের সঙ্গে শারীরিক ও মানসিক ভাবে প্রস্তুত করেছেন তিনি নিজেকে জীবনের এই একটিমাত্র লক্ষ্য অর্জন করবেন বলে। তিনিই প্রথম মার্কিন মাউন্টেনিয়ার, যিনি এভারেস্টের শৃঙ্গে আরোহণ করেছেনÑ একবার
নয়, সাত-সাতবার। এ ছাড়াও তিনি অন্নপূর্ণা, কে-টু, কাঞ্চনজঙ্ঘা, ধবলগিরি, মাকালু, নাঙ্গাপর্বতের মত ৮০০০ মিটারের বেশি উঁচু সবকটি পর্বতচূড়ায় আরোহণ করেছেন, এবং রেকর্ড গড়েছেন একটিতেও অক্সিজেন সাপ্লিমেন্ট ব্যবহার না করে। তাঁর বিচিত্র অভিজ্ঞতার কথা চমৎকার প্রাঞ্জল ভাষায় বর্ণনা করেছেন তিনি এই বইয়ে।
বইটির ঝরঝরে, সাবলীল অনুবাদ করে আমার মত অসংখ্য ঘরকুনো বাঙালীর মস্ত উপকার করেছেন বাঙালী পর্বতারোহী সজল খালেদ। এজন্য প্রশংসা তাঁর অবশ্যই প্রাপ্য। শুধু আশা করছি তা নয়, আমার বিশ্বাস: প্রতিটি দুঃসাহসী, অভিযানপ্রিয় বাঙালীর অন্তর স্পর্শ করবে এ-বই, তাদেরকে উদ্বুদ্ধ করবে যার যার নিজ নিজ ক্ষেত্রে অসাধ্যসাধনের প্রয়াসে।
অনুবাদক নিজেও একজন পর্বতোৎসাহী ও ফিল্ম মেকার। তাই এইসব দুঃসাহসিক অভিযানের খুঁটিনাটি সবকিছু সহজ ও সুন্দরভাবে দরদের সাথে ফুটিয়ে তুলতে সক্ষম হয়েছেন। ফলে বইটি প্রথম থেকে শেষ পর্যন্ত এক বসায় গড় গড় করে পড়ে শেষ করা যায়।
প্রাচীন কাল থেকে মানুষের মধ্যে দুর্জয়, দুরারোহ পর্বতের প্রতি স্বভাবজাত দুর্বার আগ্রহ ও আকর্ষণ রয়েছে। ওই উঁচু-উঁচু পর্বতের মাথায় পা রেখে দাঁড়িয়ে নিজের মানবসত্তাকে গভীরভাবে উপলব্ধি করার কথা কল্পনা করলেই আমাদের বুকে শিহরন জাগে। কিন্তু বাস্তবে যাঁরা সেখানে যান তাঁদের কতটা অধ্যবসায়ের সঙ্গে নিজেকে কষ্টসহিষ্ণু করে গড়ে তুলতে হয়, শারীরিক ফিটনেসের
জন্য কেমন অমানুষিক পরিশ্রম করতে হয়, অদম্য সঙ্কল্প নিয়ে কীভাবে মৃত্যুর ঝুঁকি মাথায় করে বিপদের মুখে ঝাঁপ দিতে হয় সেসব বর্ণনা রয়েছে বইয়ের পাতায় পাতায়। দুঃসাধ্য এই কাজে প্রয়োজনে একে অপরকে নিঃস্বার্থ ভাবে সাহায্য করতে হয়, সবসময় অন্যান্য অভিযাত্রীদের প্রতি বাড়িয়ে রাখতে হয় সাহায্যের হাত।
আত্মজীবনীমূলক এই রচনায় বাঙালী পাঠকের প্রায়-অপরিচিত একটা জগতের স্পষ্ট চিত্র উঠে এসেছে, যা ছোট-বড় সবার মন টানবে। বইটি পড়তে পড়তে মনে হয়: যেন সবকিছু দেখতে পাচ্ছি চোখের সামনে। তবে কেবলই বিপদ, ভয় আর মৃত্যুর ঝুঁকির কাটখোট্টা বর্ণনা নয় এ বই, স্থানে স্থানে রসালো কিছুও আছে।
একবার কে-টু (দ্বিতীয় উচ্চতম) পর্বতের চূড়ায় প্রায়-পৌঁছে গিয়েও ফিরে আসতে হয়েছিল ভিশ্চার্স ও তাঁর বন্ধু স্কট ফিশারকে, দুজন বিপদগ্রস্ত পর্বতারোহীকে নীচের ক্যাম্পে নামতে সাহায্য করার ডাক পেয়ে। তারপর আবার যখন উপরে উঠছেন, টের পেলেন, কিছুক্ষণের মধ্যেই তুষার ধস শুরু হতে চলেছে। আশ্রয় নেবেন বলে ভিশ্চার্স বরফে গর্ত খুঁড়তে শুরু করেছেন, স্কট ছিলেন বেশ
কিছুটা উপরে। হঠাৎ ভিশ্চার্স দেখলেন সড়াৎ তাঁর পাশ কাটিয়ে চলে গেলেন স্কট নীচের দিকে। দুজন ছিলেন রশি দিয়ে পরস্পরের সঙ্গে বাঁধা, ফলে রশিতে টান পড়ায় ভিশ্চার্সও চললেন পিছন পিছন। বার বার শক্ত বরফে আইস অ্যাক্স গাঁথার চেষ্টা করেও সেল্ফ্ অ্যারেস্ট করে পতন ঠেকানো যাচ্ছিল না। আর একটু নীচেই ৮০০০ ফুট খাড়া ঢাল, অর্থাৎ নিশ্চিত মৃত্যু। তারপর ভাগ্যক্রমে হঠাৎ করেই
ভিশ্চার্সের কুঠারটা গেঁথে গেল বরফে, দড়ি টান টান হয়ে গেল, ঝাঁকিও লাগল খুব জোর তবে পতন ঠেকল। চিৎকার করে জানতে চাইলেন ভিশ্চার্স, ‘ঠিক আছো তো?’ নীচ থেকে স্কটের আর্তনাদ ভেসে এল। চেঁচিয়ে উত্তর দিলেন তিনি। কী বললেন?
পাঠক, স্কটের উত্তরটা আমি এখানে বলব না, পাতা উল্টে দেখে নিতে হবে আপনাকেই। কথা দিতে পারি, হাসি ঠেকিয়ে রাখতে পারবেন না। বইটির বহুল প্রচার কামনা করছি।
কাজী আনোয়ার হোসেন
১৯. ১. ২০১৩
প্রচ্ছদের ফ্লিপে সজল খালেদ একটি সংক্ষিপ্ত পরিচিতি লিখেছেন -
কেন পাহাড়ে চড়েন? এই প্রশ্নটি একজন পর্বতারোহীকে জীবনে সবচেয়ে বেশিবার শুনতে হয়। সব পর্বতারোহী এই প্রশ্নের জবাব ঠিকভাবে দিতে পারেন না। বিশ্বের অন্যতম সেরা পর্বতারোহী এড ভিশ্চার্স এই প্রশ্নের উত্তর খুঁজেছেন আঠার বছরে পৃথিবীর সর্বোচ্চ চোদ্দটি পর্বত অতিরিক্ত অক্সিজেন ছাড়া আরোহণ করে।
একজন তরুণ অদম্য মানসিক শক্তি এবং অমানুষিক পরিশ্রমে তিলে তিলে নিজেকে তৈরি করেছেন পৃথিবীর সবচেয়ে কঠিন চ্যালেঞ্জ নেবার জন্য। পর্বতের নেশায় পশু চিকিৎসকের নিশ্চিন্ত পেশা ত্যাগ করে কাঠমিস্ত্রির কাজ করেছেন, যাতে ইচ্ছেমত পাহাড়ে যেতে পারেন। সারাজীবন তিনি সেসব কাজই করেছেন যা তাকে পাহাড়ে চড়তে সাহায্য করবে।
দুর্দমনীয় এড ভিশ্চার্স নিজেকে সৌভাগ্যবান মনে করেন না বরং মনে করেন তিনি ‘ঝুঁকি সমন্বয়ক’। তার মতে, এই আঠেরো বছরের সংকল্প সফল হয়েছে নিরলস প্রস্তুতি এবং ঠিক সময়ে ঠিক সিদ্ধান্তের জন্য।
প্রথমবার এভারেস্টের মাত্র তিনশ ফুট নিচ থেকেই নেমে আসতে হয় এড ভিশ্চার্সকে। এরপর তিনবারের চেষ্টায় এভারেস্ট আরোহণ করেন। শিশাপাংমা পর্বতের চূড়ায় পৌঁছে দেখেন মূল চূড়া আর মাত্র বিশ ফুট উচ্চতায় যা একা পার হওয়া প্রচণ্ড ঝুঁকিপূর্ণ। দীর্ঘ আট বছর পর তিনি আবার ফিরে এসে সেই বিশ ফুট উচ্চতা অতিক্রম করেন। তবে এড সবচেয়ে বড় সমস্যায় পড়েন অন্নপূর্ণা
পর্বতে। বারবার এই পর্বতে ব্যর্থ হয়ে ফিরে যাবার পর তিনি সবশেষে ২০০৫ সালে সবচেয়ে দুর্গম এবং প্রাণ হরণকারী অন্নপূর্ণার চূড়ায় উঠে স্বপ্নকে সত্যি করেন।
এড ভিশ্চার্স মনে করেন, ‘পর্বতকে কখনও জয় করা যায়না, তাকে শ্রদ্ধা করতে হয়। পর্বত থেকে শেখা ধৈর্য কাজে লাগাতে পারলে সে তাকে আরোহণের অনুমতি
দেয়। জীবনের অনেক আরাধ্য ব্যাপারই আসলে এরকম’।
শুনলে অবাক লাগবে যে এড ভিশ্চার্...
লাটভিয়ান ও জার্মান পিতামাতার ঘরে ১৯৫৯ সালের ২২ জুলাই আমেরিকার ফোর্ট ওয়েইন, ইন্ডিয়ানায় জন্মগ্রহণ করেন এডমান্ড ভিস্টার্স (Edmund Viesturs)। এড ভিশ্চার্স নামেই তিনি বেশি পরিচিত।
১৮ বছরের অক্লান্ত চেষ্টায় বিখ্যাত আমেরিকান পর্বতারোহী এড ভিস্টার্স জয় করেছেন মাউন্ট এভারেস্টসহ পৃথিবীর সবচেয়ে উঁচু ১৪টি দুর্গম পর্বতচূড়া। অল্পবয়স থেকেই নিষ্ঠা ও ধৈর্যের সঙ্গে শারীরিক ও মানসিক ভাবে প্রস্তুত করেছেন তিনি নিজেকে জীবনের এই একটিমাত্র লক্ষ্য অর্জন করবেন বলে। তিনিই প্রথম মার্কিন মাউন্টেনিয়ার, যিনি এভারেস্টের শৃঙ্গে আরোহণ করেছেনÑ একবার
নয়, সাত-সাতবার। এ ছাড়াও তিনি অন্নপূর্ণা, কে-টু, কাঞ্চনজঙ্ঘা, ধবলগিরি, মাকালু, নাঙ্গাপর্বতের মত ৮০০০ মিটারের বেশি উঁচু সবকটি পর্বতচূড়ায় আরোহণ করেছেন, এবং রেকর্ড গড়েছেন একটিতেও অক্সিজেন সাপ্লিমেন্ট ব্যবহার না করে। তাঁর বিচিত্র অভিজ্ঞতার কথা চমৎকার প্রাঞ্জল ভাষায় বর্ণনা করেছেন তিনি এই বইয়ে।
বইটির ঝরঝরে, সাবলীল অনুবাদ করে আমার মত অসংখ্য ঘরকুনো বাঙালীর মস্ত উপকার করেছেন বাঙালী পর্বতারোহী সজল খালেদ। এজন্য প্রশংসা তাঁর অবশ্যই প্রাপ্য। শুধু আশা করছি তা নয়, আমার বিশ্বাস: প্রতিটি দুঃসাহসী, অভিযানপ্রিয় বাঙালীর অন্তর স্পর্শ করবে এ-বই, তাদেরকে উদ্বুদ্ধ করবে যার যার নিজ নিজ ক্ষেত্রে অসাধ্যসাধনের প্রয়াসে।
অনুবাদক নিজেও একজন পর্বতোৎসাহী ও ফিল্ম মেকার। তাই এইসব দুঃসাহসিক অভিযানের খুঁটিনাটি সবকিছু সহজ ও সুন্দরভাবে দরদের সাথে ফুটিয়ে তুলতে সক্ষম হয়েছেন। ফলে বইটি প্রথম থেকে শেষ পর্যন্ত এক বসায় গড় গড় করে পড়ে শেষ করা যায়।
প্রাচীন কাল থেকে মানুষের মধ্যে দুর্জয়, দুরারোহ পর্বতের প্রতি স্বভাবজাত দুর্বার আগ্রহ ও আকর্ষণ রয়েছে। ওই উঁচু-উঁচু পর্বতের মাথায় পা রেখে দাঁড়িয়ে নিজের মানবসত্তাকে গভীরভাবে উপলব্ধি করার কথা কল্পনা করলেই আমাদের বুকে শিহরন জাগে। কিন্তু বাস্তবে যাঁরা সেখানে যান তাঁদের কতটা অধ্যবসায়ের সঙ্গে নিজেকে কষ্টসহিষ্ণু করে গড়ে তুলতে হয়, শারীরিক ফিটনেসের
জন্য কেমন অমানুষিক পরিশ্রম করতে হয়, অদম্য সঙ্কল্প নিয়ে কীভাবে মৃত্যুর ঝুঁকি মাথায় করে বিপদের মুখে ঝাঁপ দিতে হয় সেসব বর্ণনা রয়েছে বইয়ের পাতায় পাতায়। দুঃসাধ্য এই কাজে প্রয়োজনে একে অপরকে নিঃস্বার্থ ভাবে সাহায্য করতে হয়, সবসময় অন্যান্য অভিযাত্রীদের প্রতি বাড়িয়ে রাখতে হয় সাহায্যের হাত।
আত্মজীবনীমূলক এই রচনায় বাঙালী পাঠকের প্রায়-অপরিচিত একটা জগতের স্পষ্ট চিত্র উঠে এসেছে, যা ছোট-বড় সবার মন টানবে। বইটি পড়তে পড়তে মনে হয়: যেন সবকিছু দেখতে পাচ্ছি চোখের সামনে। তবে কেবলই বিপদ, ভয় আর মৃত্যুর ঝুঁকির কাটখোট্টা বর্ণনা নয় এ বই, স্থানে স্থানে রসালো কিছুও আছে।
একবার কে-টু (দ্বিতীয় উচ্চতম) পর্বতের চূড়ায় প্রায়-পৌঁছে গিয়েও ফিরে আসতে হয়েছিল ভিশ্চার্স ও তাঁর বন্ধু স্কট ফিশারকে, দুজন বিপদগ্রস্ত পর্বতারোহীকে নীচের ক্যাম্পে নামতে সাহায্য করার ডাক পেয়ে। তারপর আবার যখন উপরে উঠছেন, টের পেলেন, কিছুক্ষণের মধ্যেই তুষার ধস শুরু হতে চলেছে। আশ্রয় নেবেন বলে ভিশ্চার্স বরফে গর্ত খুঁড়তে শুরু করেছেন, স্কট ছিলেন বেশ
কিছুটা উপরে। হঠাৎ ভিশ্চার্স দেখলেন সড়াৎ তাঁর পাশ কাটিয়ে চলে গেলেন স্কট নীচের দিকে। দুজন ছিলেন রশি দিয়ে পরস্পরের সঙ্গে বাঁধা, ফলে রশিতে টান পড়ায় ভিশ্চার্সও চললেন পিছন পিছন। বার বার শক্ত বরফে আইস অ্যাক্স গাঁথার চেষ্টা করেও সেল্ফ্ অ্যারেস্ট করে পতন ঠেকানো যাচ্ছিল না। আর একটু নীচেই ৮০০০ ফুট খাড়া ঢাল, অর্থাৎ নিশ্চিত মৃত্যু। তারপর ভাগ্যক্রমে হঠাৎ করেই
ভিশ্চার্সের কুঠারটা গেঁথে গেল বরফে, দড়ি টান টান হয়ে গেল, ঝাঁকিও লাগল খুব জোর তবে পতন ঠেকল। চিৎকার করে জানতে চাইলেন ভিশ্চার্স, ‘ঠিক আছো তো?’ নীচ থেকে স্কটের আর্তনাদ ভেসে এল। চেঁচিয়ে উত্তর দিলেন তিনি। কী বললেন?
পাঠক, স্কটের উত্তরটা আমি এখানে বলব না, পাতা উল্টে দেখে নিতে হবে আপনাকেই। কথা দিতে পারি, হাসি ঠেকিয়ে রাখতে পারবেন না। বইটির বহুল প্রচার কামনা করছি।
কাজী আনোয়ার হোসেন
১৯. ১. ২০১৩
প্রচ্ছদের ফ্লিপে সজল খালেদ একটি সংক্ষিপ্ত পরিচিতি লিখেছেন -
কেন পাহাড়ে চড়েন? এই প্রশ্নটি একজন পর্বতারোহীকে জীবনে সবচেয়ে বেশিবার শুনতে হয়। সব পর্বতারোহী এই প্রশ্নের জবাব ঠিকভাবে দিতে পারেন না। বিশ্বের অন্যতম সেরা পর্বতারোহী এড ভিশ্চার্স এই প্রশ্নের উত্তর খুঁজেছেন আঠার বছরে পৃথিবীর সর্বোচ্চ চোদ্দটি পর্বত অতিরিক্ত অক্সিজেন ছাড়া আরোহণ করে।
একজন তরুণ অদম্য মানসিক শক্তি এবং অমানুষিক পরিশ্রমে তিলে তিলে নিজেকে তৈরি করেছেন পৃথিবীর সবচেয়ে কঠিন চ্যালেঞ্জ নেবার জন্য। পর্বতের নেশায় পশু চিকিৎসকের নিশ্চিন্ত পেশা ত্যাগ করে কাঠমিস্ত্রির কাজ করেছেন, যাতে ইচ্ছেমত পাহাড়ে যেতে পারেন। সারাজীবন তিনি সেসব কাজই করেছেন যা তাকে পাহাড়ে চড়তে সাহায্য করবে।
দুর্দমনীয় এড ভিশ্চার্স নিজেকে সৌভাগ্যবান মনে করেন না বরং মনে করেন তিনি ‘ঝুঁকি সমন্বয়ক’। তার মতে, এই আঠেরো বছরের সংকল্প সফল হয়েছে নিরলস প্রস্তুতি এবং ঠিক সময়ে ঠিক সিদ্ধান্তের জন্য।
প্রথমবার এভারেস্টের মাত্র তিনশ ফুট নিচ থেকেই নেমে আসতে হয় এড ভিশ্চার্সকে। এরপর তিনবারের চেষ্টায় এভারেস্ট আরোহণ করেন। শিশাপাংমা পর্বতের চূড়ায় পৌঁছে দেখেন মূল চূড়া আর মাত্র বিশ ফুট উচ্চতায় যা একা পার হওয়া প্রচণ্ড ঝুঁকিপূর্ণ। দীর্ঘ আট বছর পর তিনি আবার ফিরে এসে সেই বিশ ফুট উচ্চতা অতিক্রম করেন। তবে এড সবচেয়ে বড় সমস্যায় পড়েন অন্নপূর্ণা
পর্বতে। বারবার এই পর্বতে ব্যর্থ হয়ে ফিরে যাবার পর তিনি সবশেষে ২০০৫ সালে সবচেয়ে দুর্গম এবং প্রাণ হরণকারী অন্নপূর্ণার চূড়ায় উঠে স্বপ্নকে সত্যি করেন।
এড ভিশ্চার্স মনে করেন, ‘পর্বতকে কখনও জয় করা যায়না, তাকে শ্রদ্ধা করতে হয়। পর্বত থেকে শেখা ধৈর্য কাজে লাগাতে পারলে সে তাকে আরোহণের অনুমতি
দেয়। জীবনের অনেক আরাধ্য ব্যাপারই আসলে এরকম’।
শুনলে অবাক লাগবে যে এড ভিশ্চার্...
198 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2006
400 people are currently reading
9439 people want to read
About the author
Ed Viesturs
14 books188 followersEd Viesturs is America's leading high altitude mountaineer, having climbed many of the world's most challenging summits, including ascending Mount Everest seven times. He recently completed a 16-year quest to climb all 14 of the world's highest mountains (above 8,000 meters) without the use of supplemental oxygen. In doing so, he became the first American and the 5th person in the world to accomplish this. He reached the summit of his 14th peak, Annapurna, on May 12, 2005.
"When I first attempt a Himalayan peak," Viesturs explains, "I climb without bottled oxygen, even if it keeps me from reaching the summit. My personal goal is to see how I can perform, to experience the mountain as it is without reducing it to my level. For me, how I reach the top is more important than whether I do.
"When I first attempt a Himalayan peak," Viesturs explains, "I climb without bottled oxygen, even if it keeps me from reaching the summit. My personal goal is to see how I can perform, to experience the mountain as it is without reducing it to my level. For me, how I reach the top is more important than whether I do.
Ratings & Reviews
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 693 reviews
May 23, 2019
Although there is no official series of the Everest disaster of 1996 where 8 people died in a blizzard, This book, Krakauer's Into Thin Air, Boukreev's The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest, Kropp's Ultimate High: My Everest Odysseyand Clint Willis's Climb: Stories of Survival from Rock, Snow and Ice, plus a couple more I've delved into, all read like a series. All of them reference the same people and the events of that tragic climb on Everest. It's very odd reading about the same cast and catastrophe from different points of view and all of them accusing others of negligence at best and putting self-ambition first at worst.
It is impossible to know if they are all true and just seen from different angles, much as witnesses do in a court case, or if one or more of them are covering up for themselves or friends.
Finally reviewed 21st May 2019 after comment 11, original non-review 7 May 2015
It is impossible to know if they are all true and just seen from different angles, much as witnesses do in a court case, or if one or more of them are covering up for themselves or friends.
Finally reviewed 21st May 2019 after comment 11, original non-review 7 May 2015
February 24, 2012
I got the opportunity to climb with Ed Viesturs on Rainier in July 2010. It was by accident and only for half an hour. I didn't know who he was at the time, but as he welcomed me onto his rope halfway up Cathedral Gap, I was struck by his charisma and positivity as I struggled with the thin air and the fat kid spilling his last two meals on the rocks behind me. As we climbed, he continually called out encouragements to the middle-aged man just behind on the rope. I didn't know who he was, but I recognized him as someone special on the mountain.
After returning to Utah, I looked him up and found this book. I am now stunned that I was lucky enough to climb with someone this great - and a bit disappointed I didn't get his autograph while I ate pizza at the next table after the climb...
Without a doubt one of the best books about determination and the love for mountaineering. An honest recounting of a decade long journey to climb all 8000 meter mountains without supplement oxygen.
After returning to Utah, I looked him up and found this book. I am now stunned that I was lucky enough to climb with someone this great - and a bit disappointed I didn't get his autograph while I ate pizza at the next table after the climb...
Without a doubt one of the best books about determination and the love for mountaineering. An honest recounting of a decade long journey to climb all 8000 meter mountains without supplement oxygen.
December 27, 2017
I am an armchair adventurer - I love reading these stories about hardship, freezing cold temperatures, dangerous conditions and general misery while I'm wrapped up in a blanket, cozy warm and with a steaming cup of tea nearby (The Deadliest Catch was one of my favorite TV shows). I'm also so very impressed by the author's accomplishment to summit the world's 14 highest peaks - without supplemental oxygen!
This book is not just a blow by blow of his successes and failures on the mountains, but about his life's journey to that point, from being inspired at age 14 to finally reaching his goal at age 46. It's about despite becoming a veterinarian, he was strong enough to walk away because climbing was his true passion - instead of earning a good living working with animals, he spent his time building houses and scrounging for sponsors to pay for his trips to the Himalaya.
One of the best parts was learning what mountaineers do when they're camped on this tiny ledge at 24,000 feet and nature calls, what they wear and eat and how a five pound tent can be the difference between life and death. I've always been curious about that!
For those who enjoyed "Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer you'll like this as well. He has a chapter on the 1996 Everest disaster and gives you another perspective on what went wrong.
Here's my favorite passage from the book: "Look, it took me eighteen years to complete a very difficult endeavor. Viewed as a whole, climbing all fourteen 8000ers (referring to peaks that are 8000 meters or higher) would have seemed almost impossible, but I took it one day at a time, one step at a time. I was passionate about what I did, and I never gave up.
"Whatever challenge you have before you can be accomplished in the same fashion--whether it takes a week, two months, or a year. If you look at the challenge as a whole, it may seem insuperable, but if you break it down into tangible steps, it can seem more reasonable, and ultimately achievable."
He's right - I've used that same persistence for my writing career - when I sit down to write, I don't think "I'm going to write a novel." That would scare the adverbs out of me! No, I think, I'm going to write 1000 words - that's my goal and if I get more done then I'm happy.
This book is not just a blow by blow of his successes and failures on the mountains, but about his life's journey to that point, from being inspired at age 14 to finally reaching his goal at age 46. It's about despite becoming a veterinarian, he was strong enough to walk away because climbing was his true passion - instead of earning a good living working with animals, he spent his time building houses and scrounging for sponsors to pay for his trips to the Himalaya.
One of the best parts was learning what mountaineers do when they're camped on this tiny ledge at 24,000 feet and nature calls, what they wear and eat and how a five pound tent can be the difference between life and death. I've always been curious about that!
For those who enjoyed "Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer you'll like this as well. He has a chapter on the 1996 Everest disaster and gives you another perspective on what went wrong.
Here's my favorite passage from the book: "Look, it took me eighteen years to complete a very difficult endeavor. Viewed as a whole, climbing all fourteen 8000ers (referring to peaks that are 8000 meters or higher) would have seemed almost impossible, but I took it one day at a time, one step at a time. I was passionate about what I did, and I never gave up.
"Whatever challenge you have before you can be accomplished in the same fashion--whether it takes a week, two months, or a year. If you look at the challenge as a whole, it may seem insuperable, but if you break it down into tangible steps, it can seem more reasonable, and ultimately achievable."
He's right - I've used that same persistence for my writing career - when I sit down to write, I don't think "I'm going to write a novel." That would scare the adverbs out of me! No, I think, I'm going to write 1000 words - that's my goal and if I get more done then I'm happy.
June 29, 2011
While I found reading about all the mountain expeditions interesting, I had a problem connecting with the author. I think he reminded the reader too many times about how great he was at making decisions, what an incredible athlete he was, how attractive he was to the ladies. . . He very well may be all of these things, and he has accomplished incredible feats, but I found his propensity to brag exhausting at times. I think a friend of mine who also enjoys mountaineering books warned me away from this one, but I didn't realize this was the same book until now.
July 20, 2025
4.5 stars- The subtext/unspoken question of this book is how Ed & Veikka emerged from their cohort of great climbers alive when so many others died (Rob, Scott, Anatoli, JC, Chantal, etc.). This gives a thematic weight to an already compelling narrative of his 18 year journey to climb all 14 8000ers. I'm not sure his answer to satisfy all, but I found it an interesting perspective and a unifying angle to all his expedition stories
October 12, 2014
While I absolutely respect Ed Viesturs not just for his accomplishments in mountaineering but also for his efforts to maximize safety, to rescue stranded climbers, tohelp scientists understand HACE and HAPE, and for his many MANY donations to wonderful charities... this book was just sort of ho-hum. His compartmentalization on mountains, while necessary, does not necessarily make for great narration in a story. Not that I want to capitalize on the heartache and terror he has seen, but it all felt so distant in the narration, and it left it a bit dry. I think Ed would be a very engaging speaker, but this book left me wanting more. Also, the first half jumped around quite a bit in its story telling, it was very jarring and off putting. I grew bored quickly with the repetitive simple sentence structure, and it became increasingly hard for me to pick the book up and continue reading.
Now, this book is still a great read for those interested in mountaineering. There is a lot of good philosophy and tactics for mountaineering in here, but I just wouldnt expect to be riveted like you can be reading Into Thin Air.
Now, this book is still a great read for those interested in mountaineering. There is a lot of good philosophy and tactics for mountaineering in here, but I just wouldnt expect to be riveted like you can be reading Into Thin Air.
February 4, 2022
2.5 stars
I really do wish I could say I liked this book more. Ed saved my dad's life on Everest in the '90s (this story chronicled starting on page 185 of the book) so technically speaking I would literally not be alive if not for Ed and him giving my dad the Heimlich maneuver for hours on end.
Ok first, what the book is about: Basically, it a memoir on Ed's life, focusing on his journey of reaching the summit of all the world's mountains over 8000 meters (there are 14) without supplemental oxygen. He explains how he got into mountaineering and worked his way up to the tallest peaks. He also interweaves in his personal life- stuff about his life growing up, college, but most prominently his wife and family.
I know Ed is a humble guy, but this book really came across as if he was just gloating and explaining why he was better than everyone else. It seemed like he was always explaining why he is right, etc. His opinions on others mentioned in the book sometimes comes across very judgmental and even demeaning. I don't think this was the intention at all, but it was hard to not read it that way.
One example of this that I had a hard time getting past, comes near the start of the book. He tells the story of rescuing a female mountaineer on one of the peaks. There seems to be some sort of resentment to her, like obviously she went past her limits and she shouldn't have kept going... basically Ed seems upset with her. But then she climbs into his tent at basecamp and everything is fine. He mentions her and their affair several times and it just seems so unnecessary and demeaning. It makes it so much worse that this women died in the mountain years ago.
Going along with this, there are a lot of instances where he mentions someone once or twice and gives his opinion on them. I don't know why it bothered me, but it did. Just didn't seem necessary.
There were some gripping stories told in this book, but the bad overrides the good for me in this case.
Obviously Ed is not a natural born writer, but since it has a co author, I expected this book to be better than it was. I found many things repetitive and I even noticed some typos. Just little things, but sometimes when you're not already enjoying a book it only takes the little things. It just was not written in an engaging way. I believe Ed's story was meant to be told, but it should have been written by someone else.
I wouldn't recommend this book to many people, only if you are dead set on learning about Ed's personal endeavors. Honestly, I could only get through it because of the personal connection I have. Many parts of it don't just talk about mountaineering so if you are looking for that, I would look elsewhere.
I really do wish I could say I liked this book more. Ed saved my dad's life on Everest in the '90s (this story chronicled starting on page 185 of the book) so technically speaking I would literally not be alive if not for Ed and him giving my dad the Heimlich maneuver for hours on end.
Ok first, what the book is about: Basically, it a memoir on Ed's life, focusing on his journey of reaching the summit of all the world's mountains over 8000 meters (there are 14) without supplemental oxygen. He explains how he got into mountaineering and worked his way up to the tallest peaks. He also interweaves in his personal life- stuff about his life growing up, college, but most prominently his wife and family.
I know Ed is a humble guy, but this book really came across as if he was just gloating and explaining why he was better than everyone else. It seemed like he was always explaining why he is right, etc. His opinions on others mentioned in the book sometimes comes across very judgmental and even demeaning. I don't think this was the intention at all, but it was hard to not read it that way.
One example of this that I had a hard time getting past, comes near the start of the book. He tells the story of rescuing a female mountaineer on one of the peaks. There seems to be some sort of resentment to her, like obviously she went past her limits and she shouldn't have kept going... basically Ed seems upset with her. But then she climbs into his tent at basecamp and everything is fine. He mentions her and their affair several times and it just seems so unnecessary and demeaning. It makes it so much worse that this women died in the mountain years ago.
Going along with this, there are a lot of instances where he mentions someone once or twice and gives his opinion on them. I don't know why it bothered me, but it did. Just didn't seem necessary.
There were some gripping stories told in this book, but the bad overrides the good for me in this case.
Obviously Ed is not a natural born writer, but since it has a co author, I expected this book to be better than it was. I found many things repetitive and I even noticed some typos. Just little things, but sometimes when you're not already enjoying a book it only takes the little things. It just was not written in an engaging way. I believe Ed's story was meant to be told, but it should have been written by someone else.
I wouldn't recommend this book to many people, only if you are dead set on learning about Ed's personal endeavors. Honestly, I could only get through it because of the personal connection I have. Many parts of it don't just talk about mountaineering so if you are looking for that, I would look elsewhere.
October 14, 2024
Man grāmatas par alpīnismu patīk, kādreiz bērnībā, kad viņas tikko sāka latviski izdot, lasīju kā traks. Tagad šī interese parādās epizodiski, bet pāris grāmatas gadā sanāk izlasīt. Ed Viesturs ir amerikāņu alpinists ar latviešu saknēm, kurš savulaik ir uzkāpis pasaules 14 augstākajās virsotnēs bez skābekļa balonu palīdzības. Kā jau redzam grāmatas nosaukumā, šis ir viņa stāsts par ceļu uz tām.
Mūsdienās šis jau vairs nav nekāds lielais sasniegums, tagad rekordi ir kļuvuši daudz specifiskāki, kā 14 virsotnes maksimāli īsā laikā utt. Ed vairāk raksta par to cik pārdomātam ir jābūt kāpienam virsotnē, kā pareizi sevi motivēt un pats galvenais kā saprast brīdi, kad pat pārsimts metrus pirms virsotnes griezties apkārt un kāpt lejā. Virsotnes iekarošana ir tikai pusceļš uz panākumu, vēl ir jātiek no kalna lejā. Grāmatā ir aprakstīti daudz gadījumi, kad veiksmīgi virsotnes iekarotāji no kalna lejā vairs netiek un paliek nosaluši tās piekājē, par brīdinājumu citiem. Grāmatas autors kā redzams nosalis kalnā nav, pat vairāk viņš nekad dzīvē savas karjeras laikā nav nosaldējis nevienu pirkstu, kas šāda kalibra alpīnistiem jau ir sasniegums pats par sevi.
Grāmatai lieku 9 no 10 ballēm, sarakstīts kā dzīva cilvēka stāstījums par saviem piedzīvojumiem un dzīvi. Autors neatstāj augstprātīga cilvēka iespaidu, šķiet, ka ir pat pārāk pieticīgs un lieliski apzinās riskus, kurus viņa bija jāpārvar, lai sasniegtu 14 virsotnes.
Mūsdienās šis jau vairs nav nekāds lielais sasniegums, tagad rekordi ir kļuvuši daudz specifiskāki, kā 14 virsotnes maksimāli īsā laikā utt. Ed vairāk raksta par to cik pārdomātam ir jābūt kāpienam virsotnē, kā pareizi sevi motivēt un pats galvenais kā saprast brīdi, kad pat pārsimts metrus pirms virsotnes griezties apkārt un kāpt lejā. Virsotnes iekarošana ir tikai pusceļš uz panākumu, vēl ir jātiek no kalna lejā. Grāmatā ir aprakstīti daudz gadījumi, kad veiksmīgi virsotnes iekarotāji no kalna lejā vairs netiek un paliek nosaluši tās piekājē, par brīdinājumu citiem. Grāmatas autors kā redzams nosalis kalnā nav, pat vairāk viņš nekad dzīvē savas karjeras laikā nav nosaldējis nevienu pirkstu, kas šāda kalibra alpīnistiem jau ir sasniegums pats par sevi.
Grāmatai lieku 9 no 10 ballēm, sarakstīts kā dzīva cilvēka stāstījums par saviem piedzīvojumiem un dzīvi. Autors neatstāj augstprātīga cilvēka iespaidu, šķiet, ka ir pat pārāk pieticīgs un lieliski apzinās riskus, kurus viņa bija jāpārvar, lai sasniegtu 14 virsotnes.
June 28, 2012
It's impossible not to respect Ed Viesturs accomplishments. That does not mean you need to love his writing. I found the book interesting, primarily because I am passionate about climbing mountains myself. There is a lot of back story here that, although interesting and possibly even necessary for a book like this, is a bit tiresome. I would have preferred to have had the climbs described in more detail. I'm not sure that would have pleased other, though. You can't win with a book like this.
I will say I'm glad I read it.
I will say I'm glad I read it.
April 21, 2018
BookRiot 2018 Read Harder Challenge #6: A book about nature
I read the reviews, so I know there is a whole cult of people, myself included, who can't get enough of mountain climbing books ever since they read Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster. Hey! Here's another one.
Actually, if you've read Krakauer's book, Ed Viesturs' name should be familiar to you. He was at Everest in 1996 making the IMAX film (called, surprisingly, Everest) with David Breashears, and participated in the rescue effort after the killer storm that killed eight people. So, the guy is a hero.
He's also one of the few people in the world who has climbed all 14 8000 meter peaks (that works out to 26,000 feet and some change, basically all of the mountains in the Death Zone and all located either in the Himalayas or the Karakoram.) And he climbed them all without supplemental oxygen.
You should know this also serves as Viesturs' memoir, so while there are plenty of mountain-climbing stories, there are also stories about his life. Some of that is still interesting: Viesturs' infatuation with climbing began when he read Maurice Herzog's account of being the first team to successfully summit Annapurna (called, surprisingly, Annapurna), he completed veterinary school and then barely worked as a vet at all because it got in the way of his climbing obsession, he was friends and had climbed with both Rob Hall and Scott Fischer (who both died on Everest in '96.) He also has a chapter about the Everest story, including his opinion on what happened. If you've read and liked Into Thin Air, I'd say this part in particular is a must-read.
But he also does talk some about his wife and kids. Which, I don't begrudge the guy his happiness; I'm not a complete dick. It's just that I bought a ticket for a mountain-climbing ride, and that's what I wanted to take. I might have skimmed some of the family parts.
I did want to add that a few reviewers thought Viesturs was conceited or seemed full of himself. I didn't find that to be true at all. He's just very confident and a ridiculous over-achiever, so I think those attributes are getting misread. It's kind of a shame, because he seems like a nice guy who would be genuinely surprised and a little hurt to hear that (He's been a public figure for years though, he's probably used to it.)
This is more worthy grist for your mountain-climbing book obsession. I might pick up his other books on K2 and/or Annapurna. Those peaks, Annapurna in particular, are considerably more statistically dangerous to climb than Everest, and therefore much more fascinating.
I read the reviews, so I know there is a whole cult of people, myself included, who can't get enough of mountain climbing books ever since they read Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster. Hey! Here's another one.
Actually, if you've read Krakauer's book, Ed Viesturs' name should be familiar to you. He was at Everest in 1996 making the IMAX film (called, surprisingly, Everest) with David Breashears, and participated in the rescue effort after the killer storm that killed eight people. So, the guy is a hero.
He's also one of the few people in the world who has climbed all 14 8000 meter peaks (that works out to 26,000 feet and some change, basically all of the mountains in the Death Zone and all located either in the Himalayas or the Karakoram.) And he climbed them all without supplemental oxygen.
You should know this also serves as Viesturs' memoir, so while there are plenty of mountain-climbing stories, there are also stories about his life. Some of that is still interesting: Viesturs' infatuation with climbing began when he read Maurice Herzog's account of being the first team to successfully summit Annapurna (called, surprisingly, Annapurna), he completed veterinary school and then barely worked as a vet at all because it got in the way of his climbing obsession, he was friends and had climbed with both Rob Hall and Scott Fischer (who both died on Everest in '96.) He also has a chapter about the Everest story, including his opinion on what happened. If you've read and liked Into Thin Air, I'd say this part in particular is a must-read.
But he also does talk some about his wife and kids. Which, I don't begrudge the guy his happiness; I'm not a complete dick. It's just that I bought a ticket for a mountain-climbing ride, and that's what I wanted to take. I might have skimmed some of the family parts.
I did want to add that a few reviewers thought Viesturs was conceited or seemed full of himself. I didn't find that to be true at all. He's just very confident and a ridiculous over-achiever, so I think those attributes are getting misread. It's kind of a shame, because he seems like a nice guy who would be genuinely surprised and a little hurt to hear that (He's been a public figure for years though, he's probably used to it.)
This is more worthy grist for your mountain-climbing book obsession. I might pick up his other books on K2 and/or Annapurna. Those peaks, Annapurna in particular, are considerably more statistically dangerous to climb than Everest, and therefore much more fascinating.
May 6, 2022
Go figure I read Ed's mountaineering canon completely out of order and this ends up being one of my favorites--first written, last read! More than any of the other three, this one is straight up a memoir, and it's an excellent one. It takes you through Ed's climbing career and Endeavor 8,000 not-quite-chronologically, expertly structured/plotted/rendered by David Roberts.
Ed's just plain likable here and the story is compelling. Mind, Ed's always likeable, but something about the tone/approach here feels the most natural of the four collaborations between Viesturs and Roberts--I do wonder if Roberts did less heavy lifting on the writing on this one which is why it feels so much more conversational/memoir-ish? That's not a criticism of Roberts' possible more heavy lifting on the other books--it makes No Shortcuts to the Top and then the K2 and Annapurna books that much better because they stand apart. Those two are brilliant, balanced works of non-fiction as they go much deeper into the history of climbing those mountains (since Ed has less specific personal experience with them). I like this one as a straight up memoir of an incredible feat.
So I definitely recommend this of among the best of the mountaineering memoirs I've read--it balances deft and well-paced action/storytelling with an affable main character who never feels too narcissistic.
Ed's just plain likable here and the story is compelling. Mind, Ed's always likeable, but something about the tone/approach here feels the most natural of the four collaborations between Viesturs and Roberts--I do wonder if Roberts did less heavy lifting on the writing on this one which is why it feels so much more conversational/memoir-ish? That's not a criticism of Roberts' possible more heavy lifting on the other books--it makes No Shortcuts to the Top and then the K2 and Annapurna books that much better because they stand apart. Those two are brilliant, balanced works of non-fiction as they go much deeper into the history of climbing those mountains (since Ed has less specific personal experience with them). I like this one as a straight up memoir of an incredible feat.
So I definitely recommend this of among the best of the mountaineering memoirs I've read--it balances deft and well-paced action/storytelling with an affable main character who never feels too narcissistic.
August 14, 2011
The stories jumped all over the place, both in chronology and in length. And although the message is about getting down the mountain safely, the theme isn't interesting enough to play through the whole book. The author isn't arrogant, but he does appear to be self-centered, which seems to be pretty common for serious mountaineers or elite athletes.
April 3, 2025
Well, I can't say that I intensely disliked this book, but... at times I did wonder if it was worth going on, especially during the first half. It's less about mountaineering and more about Ed. It's autobiography and mountains aren't the prime focus of the narrative as far as I can tell. In the afterword the author did say that the book was more of a personal story about what it takes to be a climber, rather than a book about mountaineering, which is fair enough... but I'd rather hear it in an intro, than after the fact. I feel like the title is a bit misleading as well: it's not "Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks", because, well, some of the climbs are barely mentioned. It is a book about Ed Viesturs, not about the mountains.
The book starts out of the blue in the middle of some action and near-death experiences, which I reckon is there to get the reader hooked-in, but the problem is it comes out of nowhere and lacks any context. Then abruptly we are thrown back to the start of the story, and there will be barely any actual nail-biting sequences about climbing throughout the rest of the text.
A lot of space is devoted to Ed's personal life which I honestly have zero interest in. A lot of it had nothing to do with actual climbing and I really struggle to visualize a person who would mutter "good stuff" when reading through two pages about Ed's family moving to a new house or about the progress his kids were making at school.
While I appreciate that the author devoted some time to get in detail of all the stuff he did between the climbs, I feel like that it should have culminated in the climbs themselves. I expected to understand the characters of each of the 14 peaks, how are they different and what challenges they present by the end of the book, but... some of the climbs are barely mentioned. "That year we climbed Gasherbrum I and II, it was a good year for us" is literally all there is about some of the climbs (I'd say half of the climbs are covered in 2-3 sentences and to never be mentioned again).
Look, I have no problems with autobiographies, but honestly Ed Viesturs is hardly a household name... There are at least a dozen other mountaineers who achieved a lot more during their career (or lived through more exciting events) and can share their personal stories which people might be interested in... But I picked up this book in particular to learn about mountaineering, not about personal struggles of a perfectly healthy middle-class american guy who was lucky enough to get a privilege of having an opportunity to live his dream. I was quite put off by how Ed pumps up his character throughout the book by quoting nice things other people said about him, and on several occasions he goes on and on about how humble and down-to-earth he is, and how undeniably perfect he is at making decisions. Maybe he is, may be he is not, but I just honestly don't want to hear about it, I want to develop my own opinion of the person behind the story, and in all honesty my impression is that Ed is the kind of guy who enjoys the sound of his own voice a lot. Maybe he isn't, but this is what this book sounds like. At the same time, on a few occasions he pretends to say good or neutral things about other climbers, while in fact implying they were complete a-holes. "Mario is such an upstanding brave guy, he couldn't be the one who stole our ropes, but there was no one else on the mountain, so let that be a mystery" - stuff like that... It would be fine on a couple of occasions, but these instances of self-praise and thinly veiled accusations are spread throughout the book in great amount.
Another thing which put me off at the very start and almost made me give up right there and then - there is a brief but quite transparent mention of a "one-night stand" he experienced with a female French climber right at the base camp, which serves absolutely no purpose in the story and I can't see why on Earth he would ever betray her privacy just like that. Especially considering that she was dead by the time he wrote the book, why, just... why?! And he actually goes on to demean her throughout a whole chapter every time not forgetting to say "well, I'm not saying she did that or she was wrong, she's such a brave woman blah-blah-blah", but come on, you chose to devote several paragraphs at the very start of your autobiography to badmouth a person, stop pretending mate, it doesn't look subtle at all...
And by the way, here is another problem - just like that French climber, A LOT of characters appear and disappear throughout the book, and you will lose track of them soon enough. There are dozens and dozens of names which Ed introduces for no reason, to never be mentioned again. Some of them are people you will not care about - why on Earth would I need a one-paragraph introduction to another "such a nice guy" Ed worked with while he was a student, who never appears in the story again?
Overall, I am disappointed. I can't understand why this is such a popular book and because of that scene at the beginning I don't even want to keep it so that my kid can pick it up when he's old enough. Herzog's "Annapurna" will do for now. In any case, if you're such a big fan of Ed Viesturs that you want to know all about his personal life, then surely this would be a good read for you. But if you want to read about actual mountain climbing, then look elsewhere.
The book starts out of the blue in the middle of some action and near-death experiences, which I reckon is there to get the reader hooked-in, but the problem is it comes out of nowhere and lacks any context. Then abruptly we are thrown back to the start of the story, and there will be barely any actual nail-biting sequences about climbing throughout the rest of the text.
A lot of space is devoted to Ed's personal life which I honestly have zero interest in. A lot of it had nothing to do with actual climbing and I really struggle to visualize a person who would mutter "good stuff" when reading through two pages about Ed's family moving to a new house or about the progress his kids were making at school.
While I appreciate that the author devoted some time to get in detail of all the stuff he did between the climbs, I feel like that it should have culminated in the climbs themselves. I expected to understand the characters of each of the 14 peaks, how are they different and what challenges they present by the end of the book, but... some of the climbs are barely mentioned. "That year we climbed Gasherbrum I and II, it was a good year for us" is literally all there is about some of the climbs (I'd say half of the climbs are covered in 2-3 sentences and to never be mentioned again).
Look, I have no problems with autobiographies, but honestly Ed Viesturs is hardly a household name... There are at least a dozen other mountaineers who achieved a lot more during their career (or lived through more exciting events) and can share their personal stories which people might be interested in... But I picked up this book in particular to learn about mountaineering, not about personal struggles of a perfectly healthy middle-class american guy who was lucky enough to get a privilege of having an opportunity to live his dream. I was quite put off by how Ed pumps up his character throughout the book by quoting nice things other people said about him, and on several occasions he goes on and on about how humble and down-to-earth he is, and how undeniably perfect he is at making decisions. Maybe he is, may be he is not, but I just honestly don't want to hear about it, I want to develop my own opinion of the person behind the story, and in all honesty my impression is that Ed is the kind of guy who enjoys the sound of his own voice a lot. Maybe he isn't, but this is what this book sounds like. At the same time, on a few occasions he pretends to say good or neutral things about other climbers, while in fact implying they were complete a-holes. "Mario is such an upstanding brave guy, he couldn't be the one who stole our ropes, but there was no one else on the mountain, so let that be a mystery" - stuff like that... It would be fine on a couple of occasions, but these instances of self-praise and thinly veiled accusations are spread throughout the book in great amount.
Another thing which put me off at the very start and almost made me give up right there and then - there is a brief but quite transparent mention of a "one-night stand" he experienced with a female French climber right at the base camp, which serves absolutely no purpose in the story and I can't see why on Earth he would ever betray her privacy just like that. Especially considering that she was dead by the time he wrote the book, why, just... why?! And he actually goes on to demean her throughout a whole chapter every time not forgetting to say "well, I'm not saying she did that or she was wrong, she's such a brave woman blah-blah-blah", but come on, you chose to devote several paragraphs at the very start of your autobiography to badmouth a person, stop pretending mate, it doesn't look subtle at all...
And by the way, here is another problem - just like that French climber, A LOT of characters appear and disappear throughout the book, and you will lose track of them soon enough. There are dozens and dozens of names which Ed introduces for no reason, to never be mentioned again. Some of them are people you will not care about - why on Earth would I need a one-paragraph introduction to another "such a nice guy" Ed worked with while he was a student, who never appears in the story again?
Overall, I am disappointed. I can't understand why this is such a popular book and because of that scene at the beginning I don't even want to keep it so that my kid can pick it up when he's old enough. Herzog's "Annapurna" will do for now. In any case, if you're such a big fan of Ed Viesturs that you want to know all about his personal life, then surely this would be a good read for you. But if you want to read about actual mountain climbing, then look elsewhere.
May 30, 2015
Ed Viesturs is kind of a dweeb, but I have to admit he's a workhorse superman. One foot in front of the other, repeat, repeat, repeat. He said at the top of some summits you have to take 15 breaths for every step. Damn
April 22, 2020
I only finished 1/6 of the book before returning it to Audible...I love alpine literature but this book just plain blows. Not every adventurer has the literary prowess of Jon Krakauer, but Viesturs lacks basic writing skills essential for a 12 hour audio book. His storytelling fails to expound upon the wonders of the outdoors, never describing the scenery he encounters for the readers. Viesturs spends most of the time trying to set the record straight on beefs he perceives between himself and other climbers in a self-aggranding manner. Furthermore, I personally felt extremely disappointed in this world class mountaineer in his portrayal of one of the top female mountaineers of his time. Most of the first chapter seems to be talking about how attractive she is, how secretly lazy and good at getting away with not doing hard work she is, and how he had sexual relations with her. If anything, these strange sexist excerpts enlightened me more to the underlying sexism of mountaineering communities, rather than anything about this woman in particular.
In summary, Viesturs book lacks a narrative arch, lacks any details regarding the amazing landscapes he adventures in, and his portrayal of women is sexist.
In summary, Viesturs book lacks a narrative arch, lacks any details regarding the amazing landscapes he adventures in, and his portrayal of women is sexist.
Read
February 23, 2025Davis and I completed our first buddy-audiobook-read!! (Aka we listen to a book on the way to and from work/the mountains until we finish it). This one started slow but ended up being an epic adventure as the first American tried to climb the 14 highest peaks in the world without oxygen. Ed is such a badass!
The timeline got a little confusing because the story bounced around a bunch, but maybe if I didn’t sleep on the way home from work everyday, that wouldn’t have been a problem 🤷🏻♀️
I don’t rate autobiographies/non-fiction.
The timeline got a little confusing because the story bounced around a bunch, but maybe if I didn’t sleep on the way home from work everyday, that wouldn’t have been a problem 🤷🏻♀️
I don’t rate autobiographies/non-fiction.
May 25, 2016
I've read other writings by Ed Viesturs and enjoyed his insight and experience. I was looking forward to reading No Shortcuts to the Top. But I stopped at page 23. This isn't a boy's locker room. Have some respect.
January 5, 2009
I was handed this book by a colleague, saying, "Hey, you're Latvian, too, aren't you?" Indeed, I am, and if perhaps my first spark of interest in this book came from that - Ed Viesturs' father, Elmars Viesturs, came to the U.S. very much by the same route as my own parents, refugees from the Soviet occupation of Latvia - then it soon enough veered far more to his achievements in mountainclimbing. I'd heard of Viesturs before. I'd seen a few film clips of his remarkable feat in summiting the world's 14 highest mountains over a span of 18 years. If his Latvian name caught my attention (my own father's name is Viestarts, a variation of the same, and the name is, in fact, rooted fittingly in folklore based on a Latvian warrior), it was his life and how he lived it that sustained my attention.
Yes, his life and how he lived it, because the story of Ed Viesturs is not just about climbing mountains. It is very much about HOW he climbs those mountains, and not only how he climbs them, but also how he descends. Viesturs continually reminds his readers that his secret to his mountainclimbing success - "Reaching the summit is optional. Getting down is mandatory." - is to never allow ego to get in the way of reaching the summit, to keep passion for one's pursuit aligned equally with sound sense, and that even the most desired outcome for a personal dream must sometimes be put on hold, perhaps numerous times, when the wisdom of experience-honed instinct dictates: this is not your time.
Viesturs tells his story (with the help of writer, David Roberts) from its logical beginning. The boy reads a book. It is a book about a mountainclimber who is doing battle with one of the most difficult, if not quite the highest, mountains: Annapurna. Although his childhood unfolds in the flattest parts of the Midwest, his imagination soars with his reading. (Do books still so inspire our youth? one has to wonder ... ) To climb all of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in the world (8,000 meters above sea level) becomes his life's pursuit.
Dreams are often not practical. Viesturs realizes he must pursue also some more practical career, and so he earns a degree in veterinary science. Alongside the practical, however, he never stops pushing the dream. He eventually ends up abandoning the "sensible" career, subsists on a meager salary as a climbing guide, takes on odd jobs to allow for the needed time off to travel across the world and climb. We can already see the needed fiber and hardy character of the man in these early climbing days, in how he approaches his goal with just the right mix of sensible and dream-crazy. He has the discipline to train, he has the persistance to continue when others fall away, he has the character to not give in to numerous rejections or obstacles that would close the door on so many others. He has what it takes to be a winner in whatever arena.
This is a gripping adventure story. It even has its element of mature romance, as Viesturs eventually meets his wife, Paula, who is his source of support and encouragment, his best friend, his companion dreamer. There is also history alongside his accomplishments to give the reader perspective. Many die. Very many. What Viesturs accomplishes only five others can claim to have done. And while Mount Everest is the mountain most know, it is not at all the most dangerous. Viesturs' story nears grand conclusion as he ends where he begins, with his last climb, the same mountain that inspired him as a boy: Annapurna. As the circle closes, the reader, too, feels a deep satisfaction.
If we ever wonder, as Viesturs does at one point, if living such a life makes sense, he ties it up nicely as he talks about how he was able to become a professional mountainclimber, financed by sponsors. He has a debate with a reporter about the statistics he faces, life or death. While the reporter uses the metaphor of Russian roullette, Viesturs argues that his odds actually improve with each summit, even as his experience accumulates. What he does, he says in his speaking tours, can be an approach well transposed to any pursuit in life. Know when and how to chase your dream; know when to turn back; know what should be sacrificed along the way and what should never be left behind; know when to trust your instincts; know how to celebrate an accomplishment without letting it get overmuch to your head; know how not to give up on what truly matters; know how to go home again and appreciate the source of your strength.
Indeed, there are no shortcuts to the top. And that, perhaps, in this time of instant gratification, of superficial and short-lived pleasures, of quick and easy fixes that somehow never last, of climbing on the backs of others to reach a higher level, is the best part of this grand adventure story. Viesturs never forgets his values. He never loses a solid sense of personal integrity. He never loses sight of his motivation. He does what he does because he wishes to know what his personal best can be. And yet, when he summits, he never quite forgets he is not alone. Family at home, fellow climbers, the ghosts of climbers that didn't make it ... the reader realizes by end of this story that mountain peaks were not his only, or even his greatest accomplishments. This is much more about the journey than the destination, and it is a journey taken with a rare kind of wisdom and integrity.
To learn more about Ed Viesturs and his summits and current journeys to explore the effects of global warming at the earth's poles, I encourage a long visit to his stunning Web site at http://www.edviesturs.com/
Yes, his life and how he lived it, because the story of Ed Viesturs is not just about climbing mountains. It is very much about HOW he climbs those mountains, and not only how he climbs them, but also how he descends. Viesturs continually reminds his readers that his secret to his mountainclimbing success - "Reaching the summit is optional. Getting down is mandatory." - is to never allow ego to get in the way of reaching the summit, to keep passion for one's pursuit aligned equally with sound sense, and that even the most desired outcome for a personal dream must sometimes be put on hold, perhaps numerous times, when the wisdom of experience-honed instinct dictates: this is not your time.
Viesturs tells his story (with the help of writer, David Roberts) from its logical beginning. The boy reads a book. It is a book about a mountainclimber who is doing battle with one of the most difficult, if not quite the highest, mountains: Annapurna. Although his childhood unfolds in the flattest parts of the Midwest, his imagination soars with his reading. (Do books still so inspire our youth? one has to wonder ... ) To climb all of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in the world (8,000 meters above sea level) becomes his life's pursuit.
Dreams are often not practical. Viesturs realizes he must pursue also some more practical career, and so he earns a degree in veterinary science. Alongside the practical, however, he never stops pushing the dream. He eventually ends up abandoning the "sensible" career, subsists on a meager salary as a climbing guide, takes on odd jobs to allow for the needed time off to travel across the world and climb. We can already see the needed fiber and hardy character of the man in these early climbing days, in how he approaches his goal with just the right mix of sensible and dream-crazy. He has the discipline to train, he has the persistance to continue when others fall away, he has the character to not give in to numerous rejections or obstacles that would close the door on so many others. He has what it takes to be a winner in whatever arena.
This is a gripping adventure story. It even has its element of mature romance, as Viesturs eventually meets his wife, Paula, who is his source of support and encouragment, his best friend, his companion dreamer. There is also history alongside his accomplishments to give the reader perspective. Many die. Very many. What Viesturs accomplishes only five others can claim to have done. And while Mount Everest is the mountain most know, it is not at all the most dangerous. Viesturs' story nears grand conclusion as he ends where he begins, with his last climb, the same mountain that inspired him as a boy: Annapurna. As the circle closes, the reader, too, feels a deep satisfaction.
If we ever wonder, as Viesturs does at one point, if living such a life makes sense, he ties it up nicely as he talks about how he was able to become a professional mountainclimber, financed by sponsors. He has a debate with a reporter about the statistics he faces, life or death. While the reporter uses the metaphor of Russian roullette, Viesturs argues that his odds actually improve with each summit, even as his experience accumulates. What he does, he says in his speaking tours, can be an approach well transposed to any pursuit in life. Know when and how to chase your dream; know when to turn back; know what should be sacrificed along the way and what should never be left behind; know when to trust your instincts; know how to celebrate an accomplishment without letting it get overmuch to your head; know how not to give up on what truly matters; know how to go home again and appreciate the source of your strength.
Indeed, there are no shortcuts to the top. And that, perhaps, in this time of instant gratification, of superficial and short-lived pleasures, of quick and easy fixes that somehow never last, of climbing on the backs of others to reach a higher level, is the best part of this grand adventure story. Viesturs never forgets his values. He never loses a solid sense of personal integrity. He never loses sight of his motivation. He does what he does because he wishes to know what his personal best can be. And yet, when he summits, he never quite forgets he is not alone. Family at home, fellow climbers, the ghosts of climbers that didn't make it ... the reader realizes by end of this story that mountain peaks were not his only, or even his greatest accomplishments. This is much more about the journey than the destination, and it is a journey taken with a rare kind of wisdom and integrity.
To learn more about Ed Viesturs and his summits and current journeys to explore the effects of global warming at the earth's poles, I encourage a long visit to his stunning Web site at http://www.edviesturs.com/
December 18, 2021
Príbeh muža, ktorý zdolal všetkých 14 osemtisícoviek.
A zároveň s tým aj príbeh všetkých ostatných.
Ed Viesturs píše o svojich lezeckých začiatkoch, o prvých výpravách, o sprievodcovaní, kde sa naučil odhadnúť riziko a postupne o všetkých himalájských expedíciách, až kým nedosiahol Endeavor 8000 - zdolať vrcholy všetkých 14 vrchov nad 8000 metrov.
Bola to cesta dláždená i mnohými neúspechmi, ako sám píše - z 30 expedícií stál na vrchole 20x, čiže 10x sa musel otočiť. Nikdy to nebolo preto, že by nevydržalo jeho telo, vyhli sa mu všetky ťažkosti, ktoré vysokohorskí horolezci mávajú - nepostihla ho ani výšková choroba, ani opuch pľúc či mozgu z hypoxie. Vždy šiel dolu, lebo podmienky nespĺňali jeho kritériá prijateľného rizika (alebo šiel zachrániť iného horolezca).
Počas 25 rokov stratil mnoho priateľov v horách, ale nikdy neprišiel o lezeckého partnera a nikdy sa nenechal strhnúť k nejakým pretekom. Dosiahnuť "štrnástku" mu trvalo 18 rokov, ale nestálo ho to ani život ani omrzliny či iné doživotné následky.
Nerozumiem horolezectvu a motivácii ľudí, ktorí dobrovoľne riskujú život v takých podmienkach, ale keď už, tak mi Viestursov "model" príde najprijateľnejší.
Čítalo sa to výborne, nedalo sa mi od knižky odtrhnúť, zase mi to doplnilo mozaiku o niektorých veciach a výpravách, o ktorých som už mala nejaké vedomosti a celé sa to nieslo v mne veľmi prijateľnom duchu čestnosti a správnej morálky.
edit 12/21: Vždy, keď túto knihu otvorím a chcem si v nej nájsť nejakú pasáž, nakoniec ju prečítam prakticky celú.
A zároveň s tým aj príbeh všetkých ostatných.
Ed Viesturs píše o svojich lezeckých začiatkoch, o prvých výpravách, o sprievodcovaní, kde sa naučil odhadnúť riziko a postupne o všetkých himalájských expedíciách, až kým nedosiahol Endeavor 8000 - zdolať vrcholy všetkých 14 vrchov nad 8000 metrov.
Bola to cesta dláždená i mnohými neúspechmi, ako sám píše - z 30 expedícií stál na vrchole 20x, čiže 10x sa musel otočiť. Nikdy to nebolo preto, že by nevydržalo jeho telo, vyhli sa mu všetky ťažkosti, ktoré vysokohorskí horolezci mávajú - nepostihla ho ani výšková choroba, ani opuch pľúc či mozgu z hypoxie. Vždy šiel dolu, lebo podmienky nespĺňali jeho kritériá prijateľného rizika (alebo šiel zachrániť iného horolezca).
Počas 25 rokov stratil mnoho priateľov v horách, ale nikdy neprišiel o lezeckého partnera a nikdy sa nenechal strhnúť k nejakým pretekom. Dosiahnuť "štrnástku" mu trvalo 18 rokov, ale nestálo ho to ani život ani omrzliny či iné doživotné následky.
Nerozumiem horolezectvu a motivácii ľudí, ktorí dobrovoľne riskujú život v takých podmienkach, ale keď už, tak mi Viestursov "model" príde najprijateľnejší.
Čítalo sa to výborne, nedalo sa mi od knižky odtrhnúť, zase mi to doplnilo mozaiku o niektorých veciach a výpravách, o ktorých som už mala nejaké vedomosti a celé sa to nieslo v mne veľmi prijateľnom duchu čestnosti a správnej morálky.
edit 12/21: Vždy, keď túto knihu otvorím a chcem si v nej nájsť nejakú pasáž, nakoniec ju prečítam prakticky celú.
August 5, 2011
The life of a mountaineer and his pursuit of the fourteen 8000ers. A very engaging book that succeeds in depicting the passion, determination, and emotional waves that animate Viesturs and lead him repeatedly to the top of the world and from there with the same intensity back home. The last chapter is an unnecessary reiteration of the meaning of mountaineering, in which the author feels the need to explain - maybe first of all to himself - the significance of a life spent in the accomplishment of extreme enterprises, which may look like the selfish choice of an ambitious individual. But being true to oneself whatever it takes, honest and generous as Viesturs appears from this account, is a meaningful way of life. I also feel that the references to his private life at the end of the book are superfluous: they are too few to depict it properly and they sound forced, as if the author thought it necessary to give a tribute to his family. The anecdotes about his family that are scattered in the book are enough to give an idea of the strong bonds and mutual understanding within his family: no need for any explanations.
September 4, 2014
At this point I'm prepared to say "if you've read one Ed Viesturs book, you've read them all." Because, honestly, you more or less HAVE.
I started with _K2_, simply because I'd watched the documentary _The Summit_ and this was the book available from the library. I enjoyed it, having gone into it knowing zip about alpinists, 8000-meter peaks and all the rest. That book--much like Viesturs' _The Mountain: My Time on Everest_ interleaves accounts of his climbs with the tales of historic adventures. It's a good way to learn the basics. But it means that by the time you get to THIS book you've already heard much of the stuff he has to say. There IS more biographical detail ("I was born a poor Midwestern child") and that was interesting. But really, I have now read all of his books within a span of 9 days and I'm starting to feel like I've heard it all before.
I'm glad for the books because they've been a solid education. But I have to say I'd advise others to read this one only if they're interested in the minutiae of his private life outside of his climbs. The rest is covered pretty well in other books he's coauthored.
I started with _K2_, simply because I'd watched the documentary _The Summit_ and this was the book available from the library. I enjoyed it, having gone into it knowing zip about alpinists, 8000-meter peaks and all the rest. That book--much like Viesturs' _The Mountain: My Time on Everest_ interleaves accounts of his climbs with the tales of historic adventures. It's a good way to learn the basics. But it means that by the time you get to THIS book you've already heard much of the stuff he has to say. There IS more biographical detail ("I was born a poor Midwestern child") and that was interesting. But really, I have now read all of his books within a span of 9 days and I'm starting to feel like I've heard it all before.
I'm glad for the books because they've been a solid education. But I have to say I'd advise others to read this one only if they're interested in the minutiae of his private life outside of his climbs. The rest is covered pretty well in other books he's coauthored.
September 28, 2015
While Ed Viestur's is as an incredibly accomplished mountaineer who deserves all the accolades for his climbs to the world's 14 highest peaks without supplemental oxygen, the fractured storyline, repeated redundancy and teenager like prose, in No Shortcuts to the Top left me wanting to fall into the deepest crevasse.
July 9, 2017
4.5
Engaging book by an amazing climber. Interesting to read his even and respectful account of the 1996 disaster as well as his other mountain experiences. One half point deducted for when I briefly ran out of bottled oxygen at Camp 3, reading about the minutiae of his corporate sponsorships. Otherwise a riveting book.
Engaging book by an amazing climber. Interesting to read his even and respectful account of the 1996 disaster as well as his other mountain experiences. One half point deducted for when I briefly ran out of bottled oxygen at Camp 3, reading about the minutiae of his corporate sponsorships. Otherwise a riveting book.
May 4, 2018
Not what I expected
I chose this book because I like reading about adventures but it turned out to be less about the actual climbing and more about the author’s life. The narrative dragged and by the time he’d reached all 14 peaks, I was skipping large parts because I just wanted to be done.
I chose this book because I like reading about adventures but it turned out to be less about the actual climbing and more about the author’s life. The narrative dragged and by the time he’d reached all 14 peaks, I was skipping large parts because I just wanted to be done.
March 15, 2009
Hey, if you're into books where the author talks about how great he is for 250 pages, then this is the book for you. Its too bad because alot of Ed Viesturs' stories would be good if he weren't such a giant mountain climbing penis.
April 14, 2019
If you enjoy true story adventure books you will like this book. You journey with Ed throughout his life but the main focus is on his challenge of climbing all 14 peaks that are over 8,000 meters.
He was on Everest during the infamous 1996 disaster, so he also recounts the events from his groups experience during that time.
There was more than one emotional moment; excitement, fear, sadness, awe, and joy are all present during this book. There's a nifty glossary in the back for those unfamiliar with mountaineering terms as well as a photo section towards the middle.
He was on Everest during the infamous 1996 disaster, so he also recounts the events from his groups experience during that time.
There was more than one emotional moment; excitement, fear, sadness, awe, and joy are all present during this book. There's a nifty glossary in the back for those unfamiliar with mountaineering terms as well as a photo section towards the middle.
March 16, 2025
It gains points for giving really good insight into mountaineering but loses them for the author himself. I have no problem with being in love with yourself, but it's possible to do so without constantly bashing others. This whole book was just full of bitterness and pettiness, making it quite hard to truly enjoy, although the topic is really interesting and doesn't require any previous knowledge of climbing.
Usually, these kinds of memoirs are supposed to highlight some valuable life lessons, but I'm honestly not sure what I'm supposed to learn from this one: Other failures are your successes? If someone succeeds, always find a way to bring them down? It's okay to belittle your ex, even if they're dead? Nagging afterward makes you feel better? Everyone is dumb, except Ed?
Yeah, truly inspirational.
Usually, these kinds of memoirs are supposed to highlight some valuable life lessons, but I'm honestly not sure what I'm supposed to learn from this one: Other failures are your successes? If someone succeeds, always find a way to bring them down? It's okay to belittle your ex, even if they're dead? Nagging afterward makes you feel better? Everyone is dumb, except Ed?
Yeah, truly inspirational.
July 9, 2024
An interesting life story of a book, but, honestly some included stories and personal vendettas were strange. Ed seems a tad egotistical, but, I suppose that’s what happens when you’re one of 5 people to accomplish what he did when he did it. The story also jumps all over the place chronologically which makes it a bit hard to follow. Overall an interesting read.
October 31, 2019
Can't get enough of Ed!, 4.5 stars
December 5, 2022
good but I wanted more climbing mountains and less Ed (too bad it's his memoir I guess)
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