Backroads of Paradise: A Journey to Rediscover Old Florida

by Cathy Salustri

In the 1930s, the Federal Writers' Project sent mostly anonymous writers, but also Zora Neale Hurston and Stetson Kennedy, into the depths of Florida to reveal its splendor to the world. The FWP and the State of Florida jointly published the results as A Guide to the Southernmost State , which included twenty-two driving tours of the state's main roads. Eventually, after Eisenhower built the interstates, drivers bypassed the small towns that thrived along these roads in favor of making better time. Those main roads are now the state's backroads—forgotten by all but local residents, a few commuters, and dedicated road-trippers. Retracing the original routes in the Guide, Cathy Salustri rekindles our notions of paradise by bringing a modern eye to the historic travelogues. Salustri's 5,000-mile road trip reveals a patchwork quilt of Florida startling pockets of history and environmental bliss stitched against the blight of strip malls and franchise restaurants. The journey begins on US 98, heading west toward the Florida/Alabama state line, where coastal towns dot the roadway. Here, locals depend on the tourism industry, spurred by sugar sand beaches, as well as the abundance of local seafood. On US 41, Salustri takes us past the state's only whitewater rapids, a retired carnie town, and a dazzling array of springs, swamps, and rivers interspersed with farms that produce a bounty of fruit. Along US 17, she stops for milkshakes and hamburgers at Florida's oldest diner and visits a collection of springs interconnected by underwater mazes tumbling through white spongy limestone, before stopping in Arcadia, where men still bring cattle to auction. Desperately searching for skunk apes, the Sunshine State's version of Bigfoot, she encounters more than one gator on her way through the Everglades, Ochopee, and the Skunk Ape Research Headquarters. Following the original Guide , Salustri crisscrosses the state from the panhandle to the Keys. She guides readers through forgotten and unknown corners of the state--nude beaches, a rattlesnake cannery, Devil's Millhopper in Gainesville--as well as more familiar haunts--Kennedy Space Center and The Villages, "Florida’s Friendliest Retirement Hometown." Woven through these journeys are nuggets of history, environmental debates about Florida's future, and a narrative that combines humor with a strong affection for an oft-maligned state. Today, Salustri urges, tourists need a new nudge to get off the interstates or away from Disney in order to discover the real Florida. Her travel narrative, following what are now backroads and scenic routes, guides armchair travelers and road warriors alike to historic sites, natural wonders, and notable man-made attractions--comparing the past views with the present landscape and commenting on the changes, some barely noticeable, others extreme, along the way.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, Memoir, History

252 pages, Kindle Edition

First published January 1, 2016

Reviews

[Kimberly Karalius · Rating 3 out of 5]

While well-written and certainly unique, this book wasn’t what I was hoping for when I picked it up.

Ironically the one city I was looking to read about for research (Dade City) wasn’t mentioned at all, which was such a bummer because it seems as if the author passed through every other Florida town and city.

I would have loved to have seen more of the towns and cities rather than the focus on wildlife and beaches - I’m not an outdoors person at all haha. But that’s more personal. Anyone who does love reading about state parks and water supplies will enjoy this book.

[Rebecca Lloyd · Rating 4 out of 5]

I thoroughly enjoyed this book! Having lived and explored Florida for most of my life, it was fun to read the author’s take on things as she traveled over 5,000 miles of backroads of our great state. I took many notes of places I want to visit or things I’d like to one day see.

[Peggy Huey · Rating 3 out of 5]

Cathy Salustri takes readers along with her on this “Journey to Rediscover Old Florida,” providing a real education even for someone who has lived in the state for over forty years. Following the main roads through the state, she criss-crosses the well-known and not so known sites available for visitors and locals to enjoy beyond the commercial parks known as Disney, Sea World, and Busch Gardens. Using as her starting point the 1930s Federal Writing Project that involved writers such as Zora Neale Hurston and Stetson Kennedy to chronicle options for driving tours of the state, Salustri updates and expands upon that information, revealing that the more things change, the more they stay the same.

[Steve · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’m a big fan of “road trip” travel books, and this one was pretty good. The author traveled the routes through Florida described in the WPA writers’ project description of the state, highlighting the older (and in her opinion better) features, with a lot of interesting history and politics thrown in. I was somewhat disappointed in that a lot of the communities on the routes were just left out, and from one paragraph to the next a hundred miles could have passed. Overall enjoyable and worth a read, especially if you have been there.

[Robin · Rating 3 out of 5]

Cathy and her friend traveled around Florida camping, kayaking, and eating. She had an old Federal Writers Project book from the 1930s, and she tried to revisit and update the locations. It was interesting, but I think it could have been better organized to serve as a modern guide.

[Margaret · Rating 3 out of 5]

Enjoyed the concept of following the document produce during the depression but as a long time resident of Florida just didn't think the paths and maps were easy to follow. I loved reading about Florida history.

[Rob · Rating 2 out of 5]

The book is delightful, but as an explorer in Florida, I was looking more for a "Guidebook" vs a travelogue. Well written and accurate, but not what I expected. If you want to take a trip through old time Florida roads with no detail on destinations, this is a 5 star book!

[Grace · Rating 4 out of 5]

As a former Floridian, I enjoyed the memories that this book brought back. Salustri is a fine writer whose love for the state shines through this travelogue of her revisiting of the state highways described in the WPA guidebook.

[Matt Kelland · Rating 2 out of 5]

Not as engaging as I'd hoped. It had some nice anecdotes, but it didn't inspire me to jump in my car and start seeing bits of Florida. Pictures and better maps would maybe have helped.

[Jdetrick · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm not sure if this is of any use as a travel guide, but its definitely a fun read. The author has a great style and her love for Florida shines through on every page.

[H H · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fun read about Florida, especially if you grew up here!

[Karen · Rating 5 out of 5]

I liked the way this book followed the routes of the old 1939 Guide. As a native Floridian, I felt a kindred spirit in the author's sadness over the loss of Florida's flora and fauna that makes Florida so special. I would love to travel these routes myself. Most are short enough to manage on a short vacation.