In my continuing attempt to learn as much about New England as I possibly can since moving here, I came across this delightful and very informative book.
The author for fifty years has been walking along the beaches of Cape Cod and writing about his experiences while doing so. Finch is not only an excellent journalist with superior writing skills but also a naturalist whose keen eye for detail brings to life the activity of nature that exists on the beaches but also the challenges facing the continuing these beaches from the onslaught of erosion, storms and injurious human activity.
The first thing he does is provide a description of his walks and purpose in doing so.
“The walks were not regular, and certainly not purposeful.” (XV)
He describes what the intent was of protections awarded such places as the beaches of Cape Cod.
“The felicities of political language, which flowered in the early days of the Republic in the noble phrases of declarations, constitutions, and judicial decisions, seem in our time to survive, when they do so at all, largely in legislation relating to the preservation of natural areas. Public Law 88-577, better known as the Wilderness Act of 1964, provides one on the few contemporary examples. It contains the terms under which Monomoy Island was established as a Wilderness Area: ‘an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.’” (19-20)
His descriptions of natural life on the beaches is poignant and intensely well-written.
“And far inland, across the broad rippling expanse of the marsh grass, I heard the muted cacophony of the vast gull colony, one hundred thousand strong. Occasionally large rafts of shorebirds lifted in a rush of wings and silvery crying, making dark clouds against the lighter real ones gathering from the south. I sat, it seemed, in an element of birds, surrounded as though by rain, wind, and fog, a living fullness that tantalized the mind with visions of an abundance that once rendered waste and decimation so innocent to the minds of men. They formed an electric band of life, so intense, so intent on their probing, running, stalking, dipping, diving, and flitting that I was only minimally regarded as a wreck or some rock might have been.” (24)
“Skimmers were nesting on the Cape when Samuel de Champlain sailed into Nauset Harbor in 1605, but were rapidly extirpated along the New England coast in colonial times by egg hunters. During the past twenty years, after an absence of more than two centuries, they have begun nesting on Monomoy again.” (25)
“It is this, probably more than anything, that defines this time of day: that the soft pulse of the surf has once again become the dominant sound and presence on the beach, the metronome to which everything, including us, sets its tempo. Terns sail like silvery origami sculptures offshore and suddenly plunge into the dark-green bulges of the sea for sand eels. Gulls rock indolently in small rafts offshore like sea ducks, or plant themselves in front of us, arrogantly demanding chicken bones, which I dutifully throw them, just to watch their naked greed and aggression. Flocks of shorebirds now reappear, reinhabit this stretch of beach, from which they had been exiled all day by the press of human presence. A few dogs are allowed to run free, despite the regulations we all know, and no one complains. There is room for all of us now.
And what of the futile efforts of humans to construct a natural world to its own liking?
So humans make cosmetic changes on the shoreline, building dikes and sea walls, filling in swamps and marshes, dredging harbors and rechanneling streams. But the old, deeper currents continue to run in the daily tides, like the schools of alewives that are said to swarm and beat each spring against the entrances to ancestral spawning grounds that we have blocked off for generations. These currents carry a deep, insistent earth memory that sometimes breaks out during major storms into sudden consciousness. And when the waters finally recede we are left staring across an unfamiliar landscape to redefine our human world as best we might.” (131-136)
“And that’s about it. Beyond these geological macrofeatures, little endures on the beach long enough to be officially labeled. Sand castles, messages in the sand, little stick figures, the charred remains of beach parties, last only until the next tide. Whales beach and, if not removed, are usually reclaimed by the sea within days of weeks. Their bones do not remain exposed for decades as they do on rockier or more protected shores. Farther up the time scale, summer beach sculptures and edifices made from driftwood and other found material may last a season or more. Beach cottages, if they’re luck, may remain for decades, but not much longer. Oddly, the well pipes of these vanished cottages often do last much longer, protruding from the cliff faces and dunes, sucking air now instead of water. Lighthouses last, but only by being relocated farther inland from time to time.” (142)
“Every year some fifty-five acres, or 880,000 cubic yards of precious Cape Cod earth, slide into the sea, and what do we do about it? Where is our communal outrage? After the break in Chatham’s North Beach occurred in 1987, a dozen houses on the mainland fell into the sea and owners sued town officials for not letting them build seawalls.” (326)
His experiences of fifty years walking the beaches leads him into reflection about our own lives and how like they are to the rhythms that wear at the sands and cliffs of Cape Cod.
“We think of ourselves as rushing through life, in the fullness of health, toward the precipice of death, like leaves being carried with increasing velocity toward the universal cataract, but this scene suggested the opposite: that we are the stationary figures, rooted in our lives, cultivating the illusion of permanence, as our mortality rushes toward us, a reverse cataract, rushing up out of the seabed, harvesting the generations in front of us, undercutting our own foundations, and taking us at last, like Everyman, unready and unawares.” (236)
“This would be the perfect time and place to meditate, if I practiced meditation. But I don’t want to empty my mind. Rather, I want to fill it more deeply with what is there. I don’t wish to detach myself from this solid, perishable world, but to feel it closer, to pay it the attention it deserves. The shadows of the low cliffs have already crept out over most of the beach, but the low sun still highlights the breaking brows of each wave. Randomly choosing a natural clock, I decide to stay here until the breaking waves are no longer hit by the sun. And so I do, content merely to notice how slowly, steadily, and unhurriedly the sun sinks behind me, casting its ever-venturing light farther and farther out over the purple sea, until at last it blinks out and there is no holding back the night.” (241)
This was an excellent piece of work which not only taught me a great deal about life in New England but also strongly engaged my aesthetic urges.