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The President's Kitchen Cabinet: The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas
James Beard award-winning author Adrian Miller vividly tells the stories of the African Americans who worked in the presidential food service as chefs, personal cooks, butlers, stewards, and servers for every First Family since George and Martha Washington. Miller brings together the names and words of more than 150 black men and women who played remarkable roles in unforgettable events in the nation's history. Daisy McAfee Bonner, for example, FDR's cook at his Warm Springs retreat, described the president's final day on earth in 1945, when he was struck down just as his lunchtime cheese souffle emerged from the oven. Sorrowfully, but with a cook's pride, she recalled, "He never ate that souffle, but it never fell until the minute he died."A treasury of information about cooking techniques and equipment, the book includes twenty recipes for which black chefs were celebrated. From Samuel Fraunces's "onions done in the Brazilian way" for George Washington to Zephyr Wright's popovers, beloved by LBJ's family, Miller highlights African Americans' contributions to our shared American foodways. Surveying the labor of enslaved people during the antebellum period and the gradual opening of employment after Emancipation, Miller highlights how food-related work slowly became professionalized and the important part African Americans played in that process. His chronicle of the daily table in the White House proclaims a fascinating new American story.
8 audio discs (9 1/2 hr.)
8 audio discs (9 1/2 hr.)
10 pages, Audio CD
First published February 9, 2017
61 people are currently reading
972 people want to read
About the author
Adrian Miller
16 books55 followersAdrian Miller is a food writer, attorney and certified barbecue judge who lives in Denver, CO. He is currently the executive director of the Colorado Council of Churches. Miller previously served as a special assistant to President Bill Clinton and a senior policy analyst for Colorado governor Bill Ritter Jr. He has also been a board member of the Southern Foodways Alliance. Miller’s Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time won the James Beard Foundation Award for Scholarship and Reference in 2014.
His next book, "The President’s Kitchen Cabinet: The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas," was published on President's Day, 2017.
His next book, "The President’s Kitchen Cabinet: The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas," was published on President's Day, 2017.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 104 reviews
December 14, 2016
This book was incredibly fascinating. It delved into the history of a part of the White House few people seldom think about. Back to the days of George Washington, through successive Presidents, as far as documentation allowed, it looked at the cooks/chefs/domestic help of the Presidents and First Family. The majority of the domestic staff has historically all been African American, and even while still slaves, were known for their culinary prowess. Favorite recipes for many of the Presidents/First Families are also included, as well as anecdotes from inside the various staff themselves about the Presidents. I enjoyed this book much and look forward to trying some of these epicurean delights. My thanks to the author, publisher and NetGalley for a copy of the book.
March 12, 2022
The President's Kitchen Cabinet: The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas by Adrian Miller was not only compelling and interesting, but a delightful read about "the President's kitchen cabinet" throughout history and complete with priceless illustrations and photographs. This was a deeply researched and well-sourced look into a piece of American history that has often been neglected throughout the years. In this book, Miller offers a lot of detail and a glimpse into the lives of more than one-hundred-fifty African American presidential culinary professionals. In his research, Miller notes that he spent a lot of time conducting his extensive research in the presidential libraries and at the University of Denver where an excellent culinary collection is maintained.
Adrian Miller notes that he was practicing law in Denver, Colorado when a Georgetown University Law Center classmate, Kathleen Ahn, who was working for President Bill Clinton on "The President's Initiative on Race," called him to see if he knew anyone in Washington, D.C. who might be interested in working in the White House. Miller immediately said he wanted the position. It was this experience that led to his interest in presidential cooking. However, at the change of administrations, his resignation was accepted by President Bush, and he found himself back in the private sector and unemployed. Miller tells of his buying a copy of Southern Food: At Home, on the Road, in History by John Egerton from a D.C. area bookstore. Miller said that this was the book that launched his journey into writing his first book, Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time.
This book is divided into sections complete with recipes including "The Key Ingredients of Presidential Foodways," and "The White House Steward and the Evolution of Presidential Provisioning." There are subsequent sections entitled "African American Presidential Cooks in Antebellum America" and "Personal and Professional Presidential Cooks After Emancipation," but one of my favorite sections was "Presidential Foodways in Motion," where the history of U.S. Presidents and their travel cooks are examined over the years, one of the highlights being the advent of Presidential trains and the invention of the Pullman Dining Cars adding a new dimension to train travel. The section on "African Americans and Presidential Drinkways" was interesting as the history throughout the evolution of America unfolds in the context of the White House. From wine aficionados like Presidents Thomas Jefferson and Chester Arthur during the Gilded Age, to the Kennedy and Johnson administrations serving French wines and American wines, respectively.
There is a also a wonderful section, "The Future of African American Presidential Chefs," featuring a program introduced by First Lady Michelle Obama when she created the Kids State Dinners in 2012 as part of her Let's Move! Initiative. In 2012 and every year since fifty young people, representing their home states, enter a contest to make healthy food. The winners and their parents visit the White House and have a meal in the East Room. A quote from Adrian Miller as he contemplates the Lets Move! Initiative:
Adrian Miller notes that he was practicing law in Denver, Colorado when a Georgetown University Law Center classmate, Kathleen Ahn, who was working for President Bill Clinton on "The President's Initiative on Race," called him to see if he knew anyone in Washington, D.C. who might be interested in working in the White House. Miller immediately said he wanted the position. It was this experience that led to his interest in presidential cooking. However, at the change of administrations, his resignation was accepted by President Bush, and he found himself back in the private sector and unemployed. Miller tells of his buying a copy of Southern Food: At Home, on the Road, in History by John Egerton from a D.C. area bookstore. Miller said that this was the book that launched his journey into writing his first book, Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time.
This book is divided into sections complete with recipes including "The Key Ingredients of Presidential Foodways," and "The White House Steward and the Evolution of Presidential Provisioning." There are subsequent sections entitled "African American Presidential Cooks in Antebellum America" and "Personal and Professional Presidential Cooks After Emancipation," but one of my favorite sections was "Presidential Foodways in Motion," where the history of U.S. Presidents and their travel cooks are examined over the years, one of the highlights being the advent of Presidential trains and the invention of the Pullman Dining Cars adding a new dimension to train travel. The section on "African Americans and Presidential Drinkways" was interesting as the history throughout the evolution of America unfolds in the context of the White House. From wine aficionados like Presidents Thomas Jefferson and Chester Arthur during the Gilded Age, to the Kennedy and Johnson administrations serving French wines and American wines, respectively.
There is a also a wonderful section, "The Future of African American Presidential Chefs," featuring a program introduced by First Lady Michelle Obama when she created the Kids State Dinners in 2012 as part of her Let's Move! Initiative. In 2012 and every year since fifty young people, representing their home states, enter a contest to make healthy food. The winners and their parents visit the White House and have a meal in the East Room. A quote from Adrian Miller as he contemplates the Lets Move! Initiative:
". . . I wonder what seeds are being planted in the dreams of young people that might flower into a desire to work in the White House kitchen. First Lady Michelle Obama has planted seeds that reimagine how the White House connects with our national foodways. The first is a vegetable garden and beehive that now exist on the South Lawn."
March 14, 2018
i loved this! miller's book offers exactly the kind of history i prefer: focused on a single topic throughout time (as opposed to a specific period or event); well-researched; full of exciting anecdotes, yet connected to larger socio-cultural trends; and balanced between serious issues (racism, in this case) and levity (so many food puns!).
i like knowing that george washington's favorite slave and cook, hercules, successfully escaped on gw's birthday; that zephyr wright, the cook for lbj's family, was influential in his signing of the cvil rights act; etc.--but mostly i appreciate having awareness now of the profound influence that african american cooks, chefs, ushers, stewards, and flight attendants had (and continue to have) on our presidents.
i like knowing that george washington's favorite slave and cook, hercules, successfully escaped on gw's birthday; that zephyr wright, the cook for lbj's family, was influential in his signing of the cvil rights act; etc.--but mostly i appreciate having awareness now of the profound influence that african american cooks, chefs, ushers, stewards, and flight attendants had (and continue to have) on our presidents.
February 22, 2017
GNAB I received a free electronic copy of this memoir from Netgalley, Adrian Miller and University of North Carolina Press in exchange for an honest review. Thank you all, for sharing your hard work with me.
This is an excellent look back through time to the Presidential staff who have provided for the First Family's needs and wants with heart and loyalty and personal sacrifice over the last 250 years. Some were slaves - their names are mostly remembered. Many who served since Lincoln cannot be named, but all are honored in this excellent history.
We tend to think of the staff at the Whitehouse as a small, limited force. We tend to not think of staff for Airforce One, Camp David and our president's actual homes. These folks, too, exist and are honored in the second half of the book. All staff are vetted by the Secret Service, pass stringent background checks and for the most part are underpaid. Thank you, Adrian Miller, for allowing us to see behind the curtain.
pub date Feb 20, 2017
University of North Carolina Press
This is an excellent look back through time to the Presidential staff who have provided for the First Family's needs and wants with heart and loyalty and personal sacrifice over the last 250 years. Some were slaves - their names are mostly remembered. Many who served since Lincoln cannot be named, but all are honored in this excellent history.
We tend to think of the staff at the Whitehouse as a small, limited force. We tend to not think of staff for Airforce One, Camp David and our president's actual homes. These folks, too, exist and are honored in the second half of the book. All staff are vetted by the Secret Service, pass stringent background checks and for the most part are underpaid. Thank you, Adrian Miller, for allowing us to see behind the curtain.
pub date Feb 20, 2017
University of North Carolina Press
February 7, 2024
3.5 – I love nonfiction that blends food and history, so this was exactly my cup of tea. After learning about Zephyr Wright while watching the second season of Julia on Max (highly recommend), I knew the topic of this book would interest me.
I thought the book was well-researched and put a deserved spotlight on an often-overlooked piece of American history. As it isn’t told in chronological order and jumps around quite a bit, I found it easy to put down and pick back up, which made it a wonderful supplement to my other reading.
My only critique is that I think the focus of the book wavers quite a bit. While we learn much about Presidents’ quirky eating habits and foodways, the stories about the actual chefs and stewards sometimes fall by the wayside. It’s understandably a difficult task because many of these stories (and recipes) have already unfortunately been lost to history, so I think this was a noble effort overall and deserves praise.
I thought the book was well-researched and put a deserved spotlight on an often-overlooked piece of American history. As it isn’t told in chronological order and jumps around quite a bit, I found it easy to put down and pick back up, which made it a wonderful supplement to my other reading.
My only critique is that I think the focus of the book wavers quite a bit. While we learn much about Presidents’ quirky eating habits and foodways, the stories about the actual chefs and stewards sometimes fall by the wayside. It’s understandably a difficult task because many of these stories (and recipes) have already unfortunately been lost to history, so I think this was a noble effort overall and deserves praise.
May 12, 2021
Good reading about the experiences of the White House cooks.
January 31, 2025
I love this book and thought it was very informative!
April 13, 2022
Well researched tribute to those African Americans who gave so much to serve in our country's First Kitchen. Very interesting historical background.
March 30, 2017
The author brings to light the contributions African Americans have made to the White House and its residents--especially concerning the eating and drinking habits of the first families and their guests from George Washington to Barack Obama.
One would think it's a privilege to be a chef in the White House, but the author points out the many challenges the position entails. "Long hours, high pressure, the small work space, and less pay offset the prestige factor."
The details in the book make you feel like a fly on the White House wall, where you are privy to little known facts simmering away in the kitchen. I wish there had been more written about the latter day presidents and I'm wondering what is happening in the Trump White House kitchen. Hope there's an addition to this book.
One would think it's a privilege to be a chef in the White House, but the author points out the many challenges the position entails. "Long hours, high pressure, the small work space, and less pay offset the prestige factor."
The details in the book make you feel like a fly on the White House wall, where you are privy to little known facts simmering away in the kitchen. I wish there had been more written about the latter day presidents and I'm wondering what is happening in the Trump White House kitchen. Hope there's an addition to this book.
December 14, 2017
This is one of those fascinating little curiosities that pop up every so often. It's, well it's exactly as the title suggests, the story of African-Americans who have served US Presidents. Except it's far more than that too.
Rather apt for a book that talks about food, it's a bit of an acquired taste. Although it has a number of light anecdotes it's a fairly dense read really. Personally I found it a nice book to dip into alongside other reading. I think the reason I fatigued on lengthy sessions with this book is it can be somewhat back and forth, at least in terms of Presidents.
It's worth persisting though. Aside from a few recipes I've not braved myself, there is an interesting chronicle of how Presidential dining has a wider impact. The attempts to impress foreign dignitaries while remaining an everyday American. The source of the budget for the kitchens. And for that matter the changing roles of the kitchens and the staff. The shifts between French and American wines. The evolution of Presidential transport.
Also, despite being slightly dense the book is oddly warm and comforting. Perhaps it's the familiar topic of food, or perhaps the humanity it gives these remotes historical figures. The wife enforcing a diet, the husband sneaking treats, the differing tastes. Sure, we all see the obligatory hamburger on the campaign trail, but there's nothing quite like the food people eat when not trying to impress for feeling part of their inner circle.
Different, and not for everyone, but if you like your food or your Presidential history - well worth picking up.
Rather apt for a book that talks about food, it's a bit of an acquired taste. Although it has a number of light anecdotes it's a fairly dense read really. Personally I found it a nice book to dip into alongside other reading. I think the reason I fatigued on lengthy sessions with this book is it can be somewhat back and forth, at least in terms of Presidents.
It's worth persisting though. Aside from a few recipes I've not braved myself, there is an interesting chronicle of how Presidential dining has a wider impact. The attempts to impress foreign dignitaries while remaining an everyday American. The source of the budget for the kitchens. And for that matter the changing roles of the kitchens and the staff. The shifts between French and American wines. The evolution of Presidential transport.
Also, despite being slightly dense the book is oddly warm and comforting. Perhaps it's the familiar topic of food, or perhaps the humanity it gives these remotes historical figures. The wife enforcing a diet, the husband sneaking treats, the differing tastes. Sure, we all see the obligatory hamburger on the campaign trail, but there's nothing quite like the food people eat when not trying to impress for feeling part of their inner circle.
Different, and not for everyone, but if you like your food or your Presidential history - well worth picking up.
June 16, 2017
I got to 57% and then found myself no longer interested. I just skimmed the rest until I'd come upon an interesting story to read closer. This book was filled with interesting tidbits and facts but it was extremely unorganized and dully presented. This was an ARC from netgalley though, so perhaps it was reorganized and restructured before release.
March 12, 2017
Did you know that John Adams was interested in a garden like the Obamas and that Johnson decided to
cut out most of the cost of the food of his dogs because too expensive, and that black people at the White House lived/slept in the basement, now three rooms and that the White House was so warm until the 1950s - when air conditioned sorted out the problem - that all the Presidents during the summer-time decided to emigrate somewhere else?
That Lincoln didn't love to eat a lot and Eisenhower interested in choosing the best cook for the White House because someone who appreciated food?
Rich of anecdotes, The President's Kitchen Cabinet The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas by Adrian Miller on stores now it is truly interesting, fascinating and wonderful.
The author, Mr Miller works at the White House. The idea of writing a book all dedicated to the black cooks and stewards who served the American Presidents and their history a recent idea.
The manuscript of this book firstly read by President Barack Obama.
Who works at the White House's kitchen? Have we ever thought at the food eaten by a President and his family? No. I mean: I haven't never taken in consideration this aspect of the "Living at the White House."
Maybe others have. But I hadn't.
Well, the book written by Adrian Miller, with a privileged look will not only reveal us from George Washington to Barack Obama what the various Presidents loved to eat, adding various and yummy recipes in the while but also a particularity maybe unknown that some of the most important stewards, cooks at the White House were black.
Black people in fact a strong reputation of being great cooks, the White House always more or less surrounded by a staff of great black men and women who served with great affection, love, sacrifice, because big families with a lot of guests is in a day a never ending work, the various Presidential Families.
Food it's another key for understanding the History of a country but also people, in this case the First Citizens and First Ladies.
Their moods, their tastes, their way of conducting the domestic daily-life.
Of course the Queen of the kitchen, with directions given to all the Kitchen staff department the First Lady but Eisenhower made a difference in this sense.
John Adams was the first President who desired to create a garden at the White House as said before strong and conscious of something: that a house without a garden is not a real house.
Barack Obama in recent years revived the tradition of John Adams one of the first Presidents of the USA, and in this case for pressing people: let's eat good quality food, the main message.
Who were the most representative stewards and cooks of the White House?
We will discover Fraunces for example the cook of George Washington.
This lady served this President for a long time. Once she died she was buried in a grave in the cemetery without any kind of name but it was built close to her a monument for remembering her.
Another steward important in a crucial moment of the USA Crump. Crump lived and served also during President Garfield. Surely this President would have marked his future as well.
The USA were still recovering after the shocking departure of President Lincoln when also Garfield seriously injured and well if you know History you know also the end of this story.
Crump was a great mediator with press. He was one of the few, with doctors, nurses and family members that could see everyday the President.
Pinckney the last one for a long time of black stewards, three generations in which stewards after him, just white.
We meet again a black steward with Fields and more, because a lot of black people have marked the history of the White House.
Thanks to this book we will discover some presidential culinary curiosities.
Roosevelt started to appreciate pigs' feet and he was really fixated with this discovery: also when he met other Presidents of foreign countries he insisted for let them eat this dish.
Many many good and yummy recipes in the book.
For you
The White House Eggnog recipe.
This version from the recipe files of the late White House executive chef Walter Scheib.
Makes about 1 gallon
6–7 eggs (pasteurized if possible), separated
1 cup sugar
¾ cup bourbon
¾ cup Cognac
¾ cup dark rum (Scheib recommended Meyers)
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 quart milk (or more if a thinner consistency is desired)
Freshly grated nutmeg, for serving
1. Combine the egg yolks and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and whip to ribbon stage (lemon yellow in color), about 5–7 minutes.
2. Add the alcohol, and mix well; and scrape sides of the bowl and mix again.
3. Pour the mix into a 1 ½ -gallon bowl and set aside.
4. In a separate clean mixer bowl using a clean beater, whip the egg whites and salt into very stiff peaks and fold them into the mixture in the bowl.
5. Wipe out the mixer bowl, pour in the cream and vanilla, and whip until very stiff peaks form. Fold this into the eggnog mixture.
6. Add the milk and whisk until smooth. This may take 3–5 minutes, as the meringue and cream must be mixed completely.
7. Transfer the mixture to a sealable container and refrigerate for 3–5 days. Serve very cold topped with a sprinkle of nutmeg.
8. If the foam rises from the eggnog mixture during refrigeration, reincorporate it by whisking right before serving.
and
Caroline Harrison’s Deviled Almonds
The recipe created by Caroline Harrison.
Makes 4 servings
½ pound almonds, blanched
4 tablespoons butter
Cayenne pepper to taste
Salt to taste
1. Heat a large skillet over medium heat.
2. Add the almonds and butter and sauté the almonds until they are light brown.
3. Drain on paper towels.
4. Place the almonds in a cake pan and lightly season with cayenne and salt.
5. Serve hot.
Oh, and remember: don't try to send any kind of food as gift at the President, if tempted because if in the remote past it could be accepted now it is automatically thrown away.
I thank NetGalley and University of North Carolina Press for this book!
cut out most of the cost of the food of his dogs because too expensive, and that black people at the White House lived/slept in the basement, now three rooms and that the White House was so warm until the 1950s - when air conditioned sorted out the problem - that all the Presidents during the summer-time decided to emigrate somewhere else?
That Lincoln didn't love to eat a lot and Eisenhower interested in choosing the best cook for the White House because someone who appreciated food?
Rich of anecdotes, The President's Kitchen Cabinet The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas by Adrian Miller on stores now it is truly interesting, fascinating and wonderful.
The author, Mr Miller works at the White House. The idea of writing a book all dedicated to the black cooks and stewards who served the American Presidents and their history a recent idea.
The manuscript of this book firstly read by President Barack Obama.
Who works at the White House's kitchen? Have we ever thought at the food eaten by a President and his family? No. I mean: I haven't never taken in consideration this aspect of the "Living at the White House."
Maybe others have. But I hadn't.
Well, the book written by Adrian Miller, with a privileged look will not only reveal us from George Washington to Barack Obama what the various Presidents loved to eat, adding various and yummy recipes in the while but also a particularity maybe unknown that some of the most important stewards, cooks at the White House were black.
Black people in fact a strong reputation of being great cooks, the White House always more or less surrounded by a staff of great black men and women who served with great affection, love, sacrifice, because big families with a lot of guests is in a day a never ending work, the various Presidential Families.
Food it's another key for understanding the History of a country but also people, in this case the First Citizens and First Ladies.
Their moods, their tastes, their way of conducting the domestic daily-life.
Of course the Queen of the kitchen, with directions given to all the Kitchen staff department the First Lady but Eisenhower made a difference in this sense.
John Adams was the first President who desired to create a garden at the White House as said before strong and conscious of something: that a house without a garden is not a real house.
Barack Obama in recent years revived the tradition of John Adams one of the first Presidents of the USA, and in this case for pressing people: let's eat good quality food, the main message.
Who were the most representative stewards and cooks of the White House?
We will discover Fraunces for example the cook of George Washington.
This lady served this President for a long time. Once she died she was buried in a grave in the cemetery without any kind of name but it was built close to her a monument for remembering her.
Another steward important in a crucial moment of the USA Crump. Crump lived and served also during President Garfield. Surely this President would have marked his future as well.
The USA were still recovering after the shocking departure of President Lincoln when also Garfield seriously injured and well if you know History you know also the end of this story.
Crump was a great mediator with press. He was one of the few, with doctors, nurses and family members that could see everyday the President.
Pinckney the last one for a long time of black stewards, three generations in which stewards after him, just white.
We meet again a black steward with Fields and more, because a lot of black people have marked the history of the White House.
Thanks to this book we will discover some presidential culinary curiosities.
Roosevelt started to appreciate pigs' feet and he was really fixated with this discovery: also when he met other Presidents of foreign countries he insisted for let them eat this dish.
Many many good and yummy recipes in the book.
For you
The White House Eggnog recipe.
This version from the recipe files of the late White House executive chef Walter Scheib.
Makes about 1 gallon
6–7 eggs (pasteurized if possible), separated
1 cup sugar
¾ cup bourbon
¾ cup Cognac
¾ cup dark rum (Scheib recommended Meyers)
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 quart milk (or more if a thinner consistency is desired)
Freshly grated nutmeg, for serving
1. Combine the egg yolks and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and whip to ribbon stage (lemon yellow in color), about 5–7 minutes.
2. Add the alcohol, and mix well; and scrape sides of the bowl and mix again.
3. Pour the mix into a 1 ½ -gallon bowl and set aside.
4. In a separate clean mixer bowl using a clean beater, whip the egg whites and salt into very stiff peaks and fold them into the mixture in the bowl.
5. Wipe out the mixer bowl, pour in the cream and vanilla, and whip until very stiff peaks form. Fold this into the eggnog mixture.
6. Add the milk and whisk until smooth. This may take 3–5 minutes, as the meringue and cream must be mixed completely.
7. Transfer the mixture to a sealable container and refrigerate for 3–5 days. Serve very cold topped with a sprinkle of nutmeg.
8. If the foam rises from the eggnog mixture during refrigeration, reincorporate it by whisking right before serving.
and
Caroline Harrison’s Deviled Almonds
The recipe created by Caroline Harrison.
Makes 4 servings
½ pound almonds, blanched
4 tablespoons butter
Cayenne pepper to taste
Salt to taste
1. Heat a large skillet over medium heat.
2. Add the almonds and butter and sauté the almonds until they are light brown.
3. Drain on paper towels.
4. Place the almonds in a cake pan and lightly season with cayenne and salt.
5. Serve hot.
Oh, and remember: don't try to send any kind of food as gift at the President, if tempted because if in the remote past it could be accepted now it is automatically thrown away.
I thank NetGalley and University of North Carolina Press for this book!
February 5, 2018
What's the opposite of damning with faint praise? Praising with faint damnation? I really wanted to give this five stars -- I'd definitely grant it 4 1/2 for the deep dive into a lineage of Americans whose history has been ignored, but the writing is just a tad dry, academic, and remote for my tastes. At the risk of sounding sexist, you can tell that a man wrote this. It lacks a passion or empathy. You can tell Miller is wise and kind, but when George Washinton's beloved cook Hercules escapes the bonds of slavery, the focus is on GW's petulance without any exultation for Hercules' freedom. (Surely, president or no, Washington is the villain in this anecdote, but the reader has to do all the heavy lifting!)
Miller's content is INCREDIBLY well-researched in an area where few if any researchers have investigated, but his writing style, reportorial with occasional bemusement, seems a better fit for discussing plants or microeconomics than food, politics, and the lives of African-Americans from the post-colonial era to the Civil War to Jim Crow to the 21st century. In particular, he speaks of the lives of slaves with a muted detachment. That Miller is African-American makes this detachment feel all the more puzzling.
Reading this book left me hungry -- for more about African-American cooks, for more about the Federal period and the life of African-Americans in Philadelphia and Washington, about the staff of the White House (both antebellum and post-war). I realize that Miller was limited by the dearth of biographical resources of many of 18th and 19th century African-Americans, and he created a rich tapestry with what he had; seeing the relationships between the presidents and their chefs/cooks/stewards was fascinating. I love history, particularly presidential history, and this book interwove political insights and personal biographies in a compelling way. I had never given a thought to dining on the presidential trains and yachts (!) or even much about Air Force One. (I was surprised that no mention was made about research into how the senses of taste are dulled in the air and how AF1 stewards accommodate for that.)
I liked how Miller chose to categorize the chapters rather than sticking with a purely chronological telling, and I appreciated the blending of the personal, political, historical, and culinary. I just wish Miller had put as much of his heart as his intellect into the book, and it occurs to me that, given that the book was published by the University of North Carolina Press, it's possible that the academic editorial slant was imposed from above.
Miller's content is INCREDIBLY well-researched in an area where few if any researchers have investigated, but his writing style, reportorial with occasional bemusement, seems a better fit for discussing plants or microeconomics than food, politics, and the lives of African-Americans from the post-colonial era to the Civil War to Jim Crow to the 21st century. In particular, he speaks of the lives of slaves with a muted detachment. That Miller is African-American makes this detachment feel all the more puzzling.
Reading this book left me hungry -- for more about African-American cooks, for more about the Federal period and the life of African-Americans in Philadelphia and Washington, about the staff of the White House (both antebellum and post-war). I realize that Miller was limited by the dearth of biographical resources of many of 18th and 19th century African-Americans, and he created a rich tapestry with what he had; seeing the relationships between the presidents and their chefs/cooks/stewards was fascinating. I love history, particularly presidential history, and this book interwove political insights and personal biographies in a compelling way. I had never given a thought to dining on the presidential trains and yachts (!) or even much about Air Force One. (I was surprised that no mention was made about research into how the senses of taste are dulled in the air and how AF1 stewards accommodate for that.)
I liked how Miller chose to categorize the chapters rather than sticking with a purely chronological telling, and I appreciated the blending of the personal, political, historical, and culinary. I just wish Miller had put as much of his heart as his intellect into the book, and it occurs to me that, given that the book was published by the University of North Carolina Press, it's possible that the academic editorial slant was imposed from above.
August 10, 2019
2019 bk 251. Miller cover some ground that has been covered before, but goes on to add a wealth of details about the African American cooks who have served in the kitchens of the While House. Of particular interest is the 'new to me' chapter on those cooks who served on the presidential trains, yachts, and planes. He provided the first explanation of how and why the Phillipino cooks have historically been in charge of the White House Mess that I have seen in print. I found the information on food prep for traveling interesting. The chapter on wine and stronger alcohol in the White House was equally as informative and interesting. Adrian Miller does an excellent job of spinning what could be mundain into a very interesting whole, and teaching a wealth of history along the way. He did seem to provide somewhat more details on the male cooks as opposed to female, and as a genealogist, I thought he could have utilized census reports and the Freedman Bureau records to provide more specific details on families, particularly in the years after the Civil War, but overall it is a well researched book.
March 2, 2017
This book shows us a different view of the White House: the kitchen. The reader peeks in to learn about race relations, the role of Afro-Americans and the private lives inside the presidential house. It tells innumerable stories about the presidents, their families and the staff. To round it out, each chapter finishes with recipes (which are on my must-try list!).
A beautiful research work that brings these people to life.
I received an advance reading copy of this book from Netgalley.com.
A beautiful research work that brings these people to life.
I received an advance reading copy of this book from Netgalley.com.
April 15, 2017
Fascinating inside look from someone who was on the inside. Not too deep, but definitely well-researched. Remains of the Day, Upstairs Downstairs. Curious what impact the current regime has on the staff...
The recipe selection was a nice touch. I might just try that eggnog...
I got this through NetGalley. I downloaded it for the advanced read last November, but somehow didn't get to it until now. Fortunately, I could still read the galleys.
The recipe selection was a nice touch. I might just try that eggnog...
I got this through NetGalley. I downloaded it for the advanced read last November, but somehow didn't get to it until now. Fortunately, I could still read the galleys.
January 17, 2018
This is a great collection of stories about Presidents of the US and the chefs who worked for them. I really enjoyed the stories about the African Americans in the kitchen who influenced both policies and re-election of the presidents. And, there is nothing like hearing about a President's eating habits to give you that, "they're just like us" feeling of familiarity with such powerful people.
June 8, 2019
Enjoyable book. The historical anecdotes were interesting -- George Washington had a terrible temper, FDR loved pigs' feet, LBJ's chile had no beans. The last chapter gives interesting facts about modern cooks.
April 13, 2017
well written, accessible, important. can't recommend this enough even though if you weren't sure if george washington was a dong before reading you'll definitely know he was a dong after reading.
June 15, 2020
Fantastic, what a find! Enlightening and entertaining.
July 20, 2022
Audiobook review
This was well written and made an obscure topic truly interesting. The author must have combed through many texts to find pieces of a mostly overlooked portion of American black history.
This was well written and made an obscure topic truly interesting. The author must have combed through many texts to find pieces of a mostly overlooked portion of American black history.
December 12, 2018
The AMAZING Book Club of Doom book for August, 2018.
I really skimmed it more than read it. It didn't catch my interest the way I'd hoped, and then I needed to return it to the library.
Most members of the book club thought it got better in later chapters, for what it's worth.
I really skimmed it more than read it. It didn't catch my interest the way I'd hoped, and then I needed to return it to the library.
Most members of the book club thought it got better in later chapters, for what it's worth.
June 4, 2024
I appreciated the concept and some.of the stories. It got tedious and felt at times like he was trying to fill pages.
November 27, 2020
Enjoyable plus I learned some interesting facts about the eating and entertaining history of the Presidents. This book honors the African American chefs and cooks who served our Chief Executive, family, and guests.
December 26, 2016
The President's Kitchen Cabinet: The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washington's to the Obamas by Adrain Miller gives us an inside view of how presidential families are fed. The book also discusses some of the drinking habits of US presidents. Along the way you will find a small selection of recipes included in the author's book.
At the end of the book you will find endnotes backing up the author's research.
Recommend.
Review written after downloading a galley from NetGalley.
At the end of the book you will find endnotes backing up the author's research.
Recommend.
Review written after downloading a galley from NetGalley.
August 20, 2025
I enjoyed this book. It gave a interesting glimpse into the history of African American cooks/chefs and the presidents they served. I also enjoyed reading the recipes included. If you like history and enjoy reading about food, you will like this book.
February 10, 2023
Cool topic, boring book.
April 4, 2021
The Slow Food North Louisiana book club was having its inaugural meeting, I mean, no time like pandemic-time for a virtual book group, and this was their first pick, in honor of Black History Month. Quick FYI, "Slow Food" is an International Movement, started in the 1960s in Italy, as sort of a direct response to the commercialization and "fast food-ing" of our culture: it is about celebrating food that is good, clean and fair. It isn't about healthy or health foods, but about knowing where your food comes from, and working so that everyone can have access to good food.
Anyhoo, when I lived in North Louisiana, this was my chapter and I still have friends there so I saw a post about the book club and since they were doing it virtually decided to jump in from the Midwest. I grabbed the book from my local library and tackled it in a week, finishing it a mere hour before the book club meeting (Still counts!). I am a completist by nature, but it was even more important for this meeting because the author was going to be there and I could NOT show up without finishing the book! So I hopped on Zoom and saw some familiar faces, and the face of Adrian Miller.
Miller was charming and conversational, and as eager to hear from us as to talk about the book. It was interesting to hear about how the book came about. A lawyer by trade, he was inspired to write his first novel, which was about Soul Food, by realizing that though many other types of cuisine have been examined and researched in book form, the same could not be said for Soul Food. Essentially, this book came about the same way where he came across stories of the cooks in the White House and realized no one had examined the African Americans who made history by making the meals for our nations leaders. It was interesting as a budding writer to learn about his process, that he was filling a literary need, rather than coming out of the gate with the idea.
This book is filled with nuggets of wisdom and anecdotes. It's structured pretty loosely and it isn't strictly linear and can be a little tough to follow as the narrative thread is a little fuzzy. Part of that is that unsurprisingly no one was ever paying a close or consistent look at the black people who worked in these roles, so information is spotty and Miller had to do a lot of digging to bring it all to light. It's clear he has done the work and brought into the light interesting stories of the African Americans that worked in the various White House kitchens. You also learn about some of the individual president's, their food habits, and the role of food in the White House. Did you know Eisenhower loved to cook, and would grill at the White House? He was also known for his beef stew, a recipe for which is in this book.
This book is just chock full of so many historical tidbits that it's hard to summarize, so I'll wrap up by sharing my favorite story, which is basically one throw away sentence. A little background: Henrietta Nesbitt supervised culinary operations as the White House housekeeper under President Harry Truman, and Alonzo Fields had been promoted to maitre d'hotel. But "Fields took over after Mrs. Truman fired Nesbitt for refusing to let the First Lady take a stick of butter from the White House kitchen to a potluck luncheon hosted by one of her friends." Blink. Blink. I mean WHAT. What I wouldn't give to have been a fly on the wall that day.
This book is crammed full of goodness and so if you're interested in American history (which in this case includes Black American history) and the lives of president's this is one you'd want to pick up.
Anyhoo, when I lived in North Louisiana, this was my chapter and I still have friends there so I saw a post about the book club and since they were doing it virtually decided to jump in from the Midwest. I grabbed the book from my local library and tackled it in a week, finishing it a mere hour before the book club meeting (Still counts!). I am a completist by nature, but it was even more important for this meeting because the author was going to be there and I could NOT show up without finishing the book! So I hopped on Zoom and saw some familiar faces, and the face of Adrian Miller.
Miller was charming and conversational, and as eager to hear from us as to talk about the book. It was interesting to hear about how the book came about. A lawyer by trade, he was inspired to write his first novel, which was about Soul Food, by realizing that though many other types of cuisine have been examined and researched in book form, the same could not be said for Soul Food. Essentially, this book came about the same way where he came across stories of the cooks in the White House and realized no one had examined the African Americans who made history by making the meals for our nations leaders. It was interesting as a budding writer to learn about his process, that he was filling a literary need, rather than coming out of the gate with the idea.
This book is filled with nuggets of wisdom and anecdotes. It's structured pretty loosely and it isn't strictly linear and can be a little tough to follow as the narrative thread is a little fuzzy. Part of that is that unsurprisingly no one was ever paying a close or consistent look at the black people who worked in these roles, so information is spotty and Miller had to do a lot of digging to bring it all to light. It's clear he has done the work and brought into the light interesting stories of the African Americans that worked in the various White House kitchens. You also learn about some of the individual president's, their food habits, and the role of food in the White House. Did you know Eisenhower loved to cook, and would grill at the White House? He was also known for his beef stew, a recipe for which is in this book.
This book is just chock full of so many historical tidbits that it's hard to summarize, so I'll wrap up by sharing my favorite story, which is basically one throw away sentence. A little background: Henrietta Nesbitt supervised culinary operations as the White House housekeeper under President Harry Truman, and Alonzo Fields had been promoted to maitre d'hotel. But "Fields took over after Mrs. Truman fired Nesbitt for refusing to let the First Lady take a stick of butter from the White House kitchen to a potluck luncheon hosted by one of her friends." Blink. Blink. I mean WHAT. What I wouldn't give to have been a fly on the wall that day.
This book is crammed full of goodness and so if you're interested in American history (which in this case includes Black American history) and the lives of president's this is one you'd want to pick up.
February 5, 2021
I came to this book thinking the majority of the book was going to be about the African American chefs and various other positions related to the White House kitchens. I thought I'd hear about some of the amazing dishes these Black chefs made for state dinners or that often graced the tables of the first family. Perhaps, even some of these dishes would become so popular that they would find they're way onto the tables of even white American families, too. However, the book only hints at those subjectsmf it even goes there at all.
Despite the subheading of "The Story of the African Americans Who Fed Our First Families....", I thought the book was somewhat lacking in African American individuals. I get it, history has never put African Americans on the same level of importance as it has white Americans and thus much more has been written throughout history about the Presidents than their hired (or enslaved) help. I had hope this book would be the opposite of that, that Miller had doggedly researched and interviewed to get life stories of these influencers / guardians of First Family tastes, but that isn't so. Once again, this is largely about what our American presidents who, with the exception of Barack Obama, has always been a white male. We do get information about White House chefs, sommeliers, stewards, and more but they always seemed to take a back seat to what the president is doing. Way in the back.
Though the book is interesting to anyone who, like myself, finds the weaving together of food and history interesting; I feel that they, also like myself, will find the subtitles stated purpose falling short of what it expresses. There's far more ink being spilled here about the White House wine cellar, Presidents not sticking to their diets, Presidental transportation (planes, trains, and yachts), and other topics than the culinary talents of African Americans.
Despite the subheading of "The Story of the African Americans Who Fed Our First Families....", I thought the book was somewhat lacking in African American individuals. I get it, history has never put African Americans on the same level of importance as it has white Americans and thus much more has been written throughout history about the Presidents than their hired (or enslaved) help. I had hope this book would be the opposite of that, that Miller had doggedly researched and interviewed to get life stories of these influencers / guardians of First Family tastes, but that isn't so. Once again, this is largely about what our American presidents who, with the exception of Barack Obama, has always been a white male. We do get information about White House chefs, sommeliers, stewards, and more but they always seemed to take a back seat to what the president is doing. Way in the back.
Though the book is interesting to anyone who, like myself, finds the weaving together of food and history interesting; I feel that they, also like myself, will find the subtitles stated purpose falling short of what it expresses. There's far more ink being spilled here about the White House wine cellar, Presidents not sticking to their diets, Presidental transportation (planes, trains, and yachts), and other topics than the culinary talents of African Americans.
May 16, 2017
In days gone by, African Americans were regarded as having a natural aptitude for cooking. A select few found themselves at the White House, preparing food for the President and his family. I hesitate to write that those few were lucky. Some were slaves, and even after the Emancipation the pay wasn’t all that great. Moreover, for many years the White House’s kitchen facilities were sub-optimalPresident's Kitchen Cabinet Cover, and even infested with vermin at times. Workplace rivalries were common, as Southern cooks were pitted against classically-trained European chefs. The usual compromise was that French chefs took charge of big state dinners, while “down home” cooks fixed the simple comfort food the Presidents and their families loved.
After a slow start, this book becomes more interesting as author Adrian Miller shares anecdotes about the presidents, their dietary preferences, and their relationships with the kitchen staff. Unfortunately, little material about the individual personalities of the employees has survived, and newspaper accounts of the White House kitchen often relied on the “Mammy” stereotype to characterize the female workers.
Still, this book is a generous tribute to the unsung men and women who have kept the Presidents well-fed through the years. Recipes for Presidential favorites past and present such as Zephyr Wright’s Popovers and Minted Green Pea Soup are included. Recommended for those who enjoy behind-the-scenes peeks at life in the White House. (Amy B.)
After a slow start, this book becomes more interesting as author Adrian Miller shares anecdotes about the presidents, their dietary preferences, and their relationships with the kitchen staff. Unfortunately, little material about the individual personalities of the employees has survived, and newspaper accounts of the White House kitchen often relied on the “Mammy” stereotype to characterize the female workers.
Still, this book is a generous tribute to the unsung men and women who have kept the Presidents well-fed through the years. Recipes for Presidential favorites past and present such as Zephyr Wright’s Popovers and Minted Green Pea Soup are included. Recommended for those who enjoy behind-the-scenes peeks at life in the White House. (Amy B.)
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