On the Nose: A Lifelong Obsession with Yosemite's Most Iconic Climb

by Hans Florine, Jayme Moye

Hans Florine embodies the genius of "and"—collaborative and competitive, fast and safe, audacious and disciplined, visionary and quantitative. The themes that run through Florine's 101 ascents of Yosemite's most iconic route can benefit people who will never climb a rock, indeed anyone inspired by the idea of a passionate, lifelong quest of any type. —Jim Collins, author of Good to GreatHans Florine is a big-wall climbing legend in his own time. He holds the speed record on the Nose route of El Capitan, a 3,000-foot granite cliff in Yosemite Valley that’s considered the Everest of the rock-climbing world. Ascending the Nose takes most climbers anywhere from 12 to 96 hours. Florine, along with climbing partner Alex Honnold, does it in an astounding 2.5 hours.But Florine’s story is not one of super-human athletic prowess; it’s one of persistence and dogged determination. In 30 years of climbing, he's ascended the Nose a mind-blowing, death-defying 100 times, more than anyone else ever has, and most likely ever will. In On the Nose, Florine describes the most dangerous, pivotal, and inspirational of those climbs, providing a rare look inside the adrenaline-charged world of competitive climbing in Yosemite Valley. He tells of his very first attempt on the Nose, which ended in failure after 14 hours, his friendships (and rivalries) with climbing’s most colorful personalities, and his battle with Dean Potter to secure the definitive speed record on the Nose—an endeavor that’s been called the wildest competition known to man.Perhaps most interestingly, Florine attempts to answer the question why. Why would anyone undertake one of the greatest adventure epics on earth 100 times? His answers provide unique insights on how to live a satisfying life, how to achieve big goals, and how an otherwise ordinary guy can become a rock star.

Genres: Climbing, Nonfiction, Mountaineering, Sports, Audiobook, Memoir, Adventure

249 pages, Kindle Edition

Published September 1, 2016

Reviews

[Megan Grega · Rating 3 out of 5]

I definitely enjoyed this book. As a climber it’s hard not to respect someone with so much passion and resolve for the sport. Hans Florine tended to be arrogant at times when it came to writing about his achievement and his attitude toward climbing, however, I think that’s what makes him such a good climber in the first place. That hint of arrogance also served to give the book a comedic touch. His obsession with this route is truly very interesting and I enjoyed learning more details about the pitches and his speed climbing techniques. The book was also written in layman’s terms in regards to climbing so it would make for an entertaining read even for someone not well versed in the technical jargon. My one biggest criticism is that Florine never really does reflect on why he would become so obsessed with climbing the Nose so many times. It can be assumed that his competitive nature and desire to share his passion with others is what drove the obsession. I think that it ran a bit deeper than that though, and it would have been nice to see that reflected in the book.

[Erik Weihenmayer · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book! As a personal friend of Hans who has had the pleasure of climbing El Cap with him I can honestly say that besides being a fantastic climber he is one of the most kind hearted individuals I've met and has great loyalty to his friends. To think that back in the 50's El Cap was climbed by Warren Harding and it took months to achieve and now Hans speed climbs it at just over 2hrs. He's broken the record, lost it, and reclaimed it numerous times with different partners and conditions. This book shows the extraordinary power of the human potential. This book and Hans' ambition represent a microcosm of the world as we know it - the modern world keeps speeding up and getting better and better at an exponential rate and we have to embrace it and keep climbing! If Warren Harding could only imagine what has been achieved since his iconic ascent ... Definitely a wonderful and inspiring read for climbers and non climbers alike.

[Niklas Laninge · Rating 3 out of 5]

It’s hard to give a book about climbing anything less than a 3. You will definitely get what you are looking for in this one.

[Court · Rating 4 out of 5]

very cool, but hans made me feel like i could someday climb the Nose... then i googled it and yeah probably not. .... also can anyone tell i’m reading the books from the gear shop i work in ?

[Kristina Sanchez · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fascinating.

[Cody Brooks · Rating 3 out of 5]

So I liked this book, but as a climber it was hard for me to not like it. The book chronicles Hans' life with a primary focus on speed assents of the nose. And boy does he climb fast (The other day I took a nap, woke up, and realized that Hans could have climbed the Nose in the time that it took me to recharge my mental batteries). I can't imagine anyone reading this book and not thinking to themselves "Man I would like to try climbing the nose".
But I did think that something was missing from the book. Hans climbs 1 route more than 100 times, and in the climbing world, that is basically unheard of. The book is written from Hans perspective, and reads something like "And then I did this, And then I did this, ..." with little inflection on "Why am I doing this". And that is want I would have liked to see more of.

Thanks for the book Hans.

[Casey · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a compelling and fascinating personal narrative about the author's experience over a lifetime of climbing one of the world's most iconic rocks. You don't have to be a climber to appreciate the thrill, danger, and process and engineering aspects of climbing. Hans Florine has climbed the Nose of El Capitan over a hundred times, as a solo climber and with many other accomplished folks from the global and national climbing scenes. Particularly inspiring are the passages where he talks about aiding other climbers in achieving the top in spite of obstacles. As a history fan, I appreciated his accuracy, lack of ego, and passion for telling not just his own story but the stories of others who share his obsession with the Nose.

[Richard Kravitz · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed this short read. A lot of the names were familiar since I was part of the climbing scene while Hans did many of his ascents. Plus I know him and his kids (go to the school where I teach). I only wish Hans would have elaborated a little more on what level he was "free-climbing" while on the Nose ascents. How well "he" was free-climbing? Were they freeing 11+ or 12+ or just 10+ and aiding (or french-freeing) the rest.

I would recommend this book.

[P K · Rating 3 out of 5]

I liked this book. As a climber, I have a special interest in the topic, and I’m not totally sure if this book would still be engaging without that special interest. In any case, it tells the story well of some of the shifts in climbing culture since it became popular in the US. Namely, the clash between outdoor climbing and competition-style climbing, and relatedly, the clash between trad and sport. I’ve sensed these clashes between climbers I’ve met, but I found it difficult to understand why before I read this book. Florine makes it clear that early trad climbers had more of a mountaineering mentality, with an inherent part of the glory of the sport being risk. With sport climbing, it has become more about sheer athleticism, which is more the climbing culture I fell into and really enjoy. It also made it much more clear to me why there has been such dramatic advancement in both the grades climbers have climbed and the amount of time in which they’ve done big walls. There are two major reasons for this inflation, and a huge factor is gear. As a sport climber, I don’t think much about how much of a difference spring-loaded cam technology makes to your climb. The idea of Warren Harding’s party having to find an old stove, cut off the legs, and physically hammer those heavy chunks of metal into cracks to place protection makes it super clear why it took them 47 days to climb the nose and why they had to fix ropes and go back to the ground in between. It also made it clear why climbing 11d used to be a pretty impressive grade, and now most serious climbers can do it easily. If you’re sport climbing, all you have to worry about is your technique and strength. You don’t have to exhaust yourself by hanging, finding a cam, placing it, etc. Just a quickdraw. Thus, trad climbers at the time couldn’t focus as much on just the climbing technique because they were developing a wider skillset. Additionally, there’s the fact that there are just a lot more people climbing now, and they’re starting earlier and earlier, so you’re bound to push the limits up that way. Also, I like Florine’s personality, he seems like a fun and likeable guy without much pesky ego.
In short, entertaining book. I like listening to books like this on audio while bouldering or hangboarding. Good inspiration.

[Clara Mazzi · Rating 3 out of 5]

Hans Florine, classe 1984, è quel climber americano che detiene il maggior numero di ascese sul Nose: al momento della pubblicazione del libro aveva raggiunto la quota di 160 volte e punta ad arrivare alle 200. Non solo, Hans ha inventato, involontariamente, anche la gara di velocità sul Nose, che ha visto coinvolti climber di grosso calibro, da Dean Potter, a Tommy Caldwell, a Beth Rodden, a Hazel Findlay. Infine, Hans ha detenuto più volte il record di velocità di salita (attualmente strappato da Tommy Caldwell e Alex Honnold). In questa sua semplice biografia, Hans condivide con noi il suo percorso di maturità, che lo vede impegnato nella scelta della vita migliore per lui, nel senso che affronta tutte le grandi domande della vita (gli studi, la vita da vagabondo, i pochi soldi a dispetto del titolo di studi perché vuole scalare, la difficoltà di trovare una compagna per questi due motivi, l’acquisto di una casa, il trovare una compagna fenomenale, il creare una famiglia e l’annosa domanda del lavoro – che lavoro posso fare? Che lavoro mi piacerebbe fare? – e poi la ricerca di queto lavoro) impegnandosi per non perdere mai di vista il fulcro, ovvero fare qualcosa che lo renda felice, che lo stimoli. E così, in questo suo strano progetto sul Nose, di salirlo sempre più velocemente, l’ha portato a creare tantissime cose che gli piacciono: è diventato un punto di riferimento per tanti climber che si vogliono cimentare, ha fatto un film, gestisce una palestra, si è fatto un sacco di buoni amici, ma soprattutto è sempre contento della sua vita. Hans Florine ha capito una cosa molto importante: come vivere una vita con significato e non solo: ci riesce! Cosa non da poco.
Un libro interessante e che merita un posto nella storia della letteratura di montagna perché documenta un aspetto essenziale (e storico) dell’arrampicata a Yosemite.

[Jean Dupenloup · Rating 4 out of 5]

No one has climbed The Nose of El Capitan more times than Hans Florine.

In this book he recounts his many ascents, some of which are funny, some serious attempts to establish records.

He also describes getting the fastest time with Alex Honnold, which they briefly held together before losing it to the late Brad Gobright.

A wonderful memoir of a man and his obsession with America’s most iconic route.

[Jessica Eskew · Rating 4 out of 5]

Really interesting to read about the very beginning of sport climbing and speed climbing. The stories moved at a fast enough pace to keep me engaged, but I would say anyone not familiar with outdoor climbing basics may find some parts difficult to follow.
Having some experience climbing also gives you an idea of just how insanely talented of a climber Hans is with everything he has accomplished. He almost plays down how easily he flies through 5.13 climbs, considering that people can spend decades climbing and never send a 5.13 route.

[James Robert · Rating 4 out of 5]

A speed climber wrote a book, and no shock, it is face paced. But while the narrative moves along at a good clip, it is never more than the reader can handle. Out of all of the climbing books that I have read, this one feels like the most acceptable to someone with no knowledge of climbing. Uplifting, upbeat, and an easy read.

[Ben · Rating 3 out of 5]

Another fun memoir of a rock climber. This one wasn't anything special, but it was a nice filler, and as an audiobook, perfect to listen to while doing things in the lab. I enjoyed it, but it was at times repetitive, and nothing ever really grabbed me. Fun if you're into climbing, but not my first pick of the genre. 3/5

[Joshua · Rating 5 out of 5]

I am a climber, so of course this will be infinitely more interesting to me than somebody who is not.

It's a partial autobiography focusing around arguably the most famous climbing route in the western world, by the guy who literally wrote the book on climbing it faster than anybody else.

What's not to love?

[Alicia · Rating 4 out of 5]

Best audio book of this year. The sound effects are awesome. As Hans notes in the credits, the writing is a team effort along with excellent editors. Having seen him on video though - I could hear his voice pop out from the hilarious antics in this retelling of his many ascents on El Cap. Loved it. Helped me drive away from Yosemite- as I planned my return next season.

[Laura · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fun and easy read about The Nose and one man's quest for excellence ascending it. I'd never read a book about climbing before. It gave me a new found appreciation into how difficult it is and piqued my interest into learning more. I really appreciated that the author read the book. I felt like I was just an old friend listening to his awesome climbing stories!

[Melanie · Rating 2 out of 5]

Watch Hans Florine climb the exact same route again and again and again and again and again and again and again x100. As a rock climber myself, I don't understand the obsession with only one climb. There are other routes out there! Anyway, the book was repetitive (because really, how can you interestingly describe THE EXACT SAME ROUTE that many times) and I didn't enjoy it.

[Joanna · Rating 3 out of 5]

Of all the books I've read on the subject, Hans is the rare male climber who acknowledged the women in his field and genuinely seemed interested in teaming up with them. Interesting history of speed climbing.

[Jesse Sumrak · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fantastic climbing book. If you want to know about El Cap and the competitive history of the Nose (from one of the greatest competitors), this book is for you. I loved learning all the climbing logistics, which many other climbing books skip over or provide too little detail. Great read.

[Joey Bishop · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love this book. I had never heard of Hans Florine before getting this book on audible. Turns out he's one of the most accomplished climbers ever. He spoke about his life and time on the nose in a very clear and concise way that was always an interesting story. Very good autobiography.

[Benn Marine · Rating 4 out of 5]

Really enjoyed his first hand account, felt almost like a memoir but he brings the moments on the wall to life so vividly. Its so inspiring. He talks about the 10,000 hours. I can't help but ask myself, what are my 10,000 hours? -- Also, I love it when the author is the narrator.

[Leah Clifford · Rating 5 out of 5]

Everyone has that one obsessive niche. Mine is extreme climbing/mountaineering. This one didn't disappoint.

[Jpb Mcnulty · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book! Super well written. Florine's enthusiasm and commitment shine throughout the book.

[Danah]

This might be more interesting for a climber; a lot of the terms and scenarios went over my head. But it did get me curious to learn more about climbing.

[Julia · Rating 5 out of 5]

I thoroughly enjoyed listening to this audiobook, narrated by the author himself. Got me on my toes in some of the descriptions of the climbing on the nose, with sweaty hands!

[Eliel Lopez · Rating 3 out of 5]

An insight into the life of a rock climber and some interesting stories.

[Ryan Handley · Rating 3 out of 5]

It was alright. Helped me get through this weekends Hangxiety

[(• ֊ •)੭ amyfish ~ love2love · Rating 5 out of 5]

the progression throughout the years on the Nose is so amazing I can't even begin to process (shark head being blown off emoji)

[Brendan · Rating 3 out of 5]

A little boring in parts but exciting and interesting in others.