Traditional Lead Climbing: A Rock Climber's Guide to Taking the Sharp End of the Rope

by Heidi Pesterfield

Traditional Lead Climbing is the first and only guidebook intended to teach rock climbers how to lead with gear. Unlike other types of climbing such as sport and direct-aid climbing, “trad” climbing relies on placing your own gear as you climb from the ground. It’s also one of the more dangerous climbing activities, where expert guidance is a must. This invaluable guide gives step-by-step descriptions of equipment, rope management, and techniques. Dozens of close-up photos and fun yet informative drawings show situations climbers might encounter and how to deal with them. In addition to covering the basics, the book showcases the experience and wisdom of a number of world-class climbers in self-revealing sidebars.

Genres: Climbing

274 pages, Paperback

First published July 15, 2007

Reviews

[Nathan · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a good, general purpose how-to book for systems and skills of outdoor rock climbing. It covers a lot of ground, from technical things like gear placement, anchor equalization, and basic self rescue, to soft stuff like ethics, and special issues that may arise when climbing with a romantic partner. The illustrations are fun and goofy, altho perhaps not as clear as more boring/professional illustrations when things get very complicated (e.g. self rescue). It includes many short interviews with accomplished climbers, on all sorts of topics, that make fun interludes.

The topic coverage is broad but not deep, so you may want to supplement with other books to get deeper into specific topics (e.g. jamming: The Crack Climber's Technique Manual, anchors: Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide, self rescue: Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations).

Bottom line: this book is a good choice for climbers that want to lead sport or trad, or follow trad or multipitch. It's not specific to trad climbing, so if you're already an experienced multi pitch sport leader some of it will be review.

[Matti · Rating 4 out of 5]

Relatable story line of the struggle between a dirtbag life and a successful family life.

[Shelley · Rating 4 out of 5]

An incredibly comprehensive guide to getting oneself prepared for the wonderful world of trad climbing. The book encompasses nearly all aspects of climbing, so those who have climbing experience and know how to climb, fill a pack, and tie knots may want to skip a bit of it. I found the refresher on gear placement and self-rescue techniques to be the most helpful.

[Tomek · Rating 2 out of 5]

This book tries to do too much that is covered in too many other books and doesn't do it nearly as well. The drawings are difficult to decipher and the content largely superfluous if you've read another introduction to climbing book. There are a few tips and tricks that are useful, but these are probably just as easily learned while climbing.

[Joe · Rating 3 out of 5]

Just another good "Advanced" climbing book.