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476 pages, Kindle Edition
Published October 18, 2016
Every day at 7.00 when the corner shop closed my flat mate and I would go and ask for that day's bread, vegetables that were past their best and two eggs. Sometimes we would make bread pudding and sometimes shakshuka.![]()
The only must-haves for making bread are your hands, an oven, and a digital scale. [The Baker's Toolkit]
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[A]ll you need to make bread is your hands. Well, it's true . . . but a stand mixer makes the job a lot easier! [The Baker's Toolkit | Stand Mixer]
Be wary of overwarming the dough-while using a mixer is a great time- and energy-saver (human energy, not electricity), the process does tend to warm up the dough, risking "burning" the flour and disempowering the gluten. If you notice that the dough is becoming too warm during this process (perhaps your room is very warm or your water or flour was too warm), stop the mixer and lightly flour the top of the dough; then place the dough in a lightly floured bowl and let it rest, covered, for 30 minutes. [...]
After kneading the dough in the stand mixer, I always like to finish kneading it by hand. [Introduction | Kneading]
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When making dough in a stand mixer, small amounts of ingredients don't get handled as efficiently as larger amounts. So for the best results, make the bread as described and share it with your family and friends or freeze some for later. [Introduction | A Few Notes, Tips and Tricks: Batch Size]
[U]se the weight of the flour in the recipe as your 100% benchmark. So if a recipe calls for 800 grams of flour and you want to increase it to an even, simple 1 kilo (1,000 grams), multiply the amount you want to increase it to (1,000 grams) by 100, to yield 100,000. Then divide 100,000 by 800 grams (the original amount of flour, your 100% benchmark) to get 125. Finally, divide 125 by 100 to get 1.25-multiply all ingredients by 1.25 to get the new measurements. [Introduction | A Few Notes, Tips and Tricks]
Flour: converting all-purpose to whole wheat
You can also substitute up to 50% of the white flour in a recipe with whole wheat or spelt flour. You will have to add about 50 grams (3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon) more water to the dough to account for the heartier flour.[Introduction: Flour]
When I wanted to learn how to make real Italian focaccia, the kind that is thin and tender, chewy yet with crisp edges and crust, and pocked with the telltale marks of a baker's fingers pressed into the dough, I enlisted two means of discovery: (1) I asked every Italian person I knew where he or she gets the best focaccia, and then (2) I traveled to Italy's most famous focaccerias and tasted for myself. In the end, I had two favorites, one from the north of Italy and one from the south, so I spent time in both places to learn the bakers' techniques and methods. [Flatbreads]
I knead dough the way I learned from my mother: by stretching, tearing, and pushing the dough away from me [...] I find that tearing the dough actually develops the gluten more quickly without overheating the dough (or exhausting your arms), so you end up with better bread. [Introduction | Kneading]
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Once the dough begins to resist, cup your hands around the base of the dough and push and pull it, using your hands to guide it into a nice round shape. You don't ever want to fight the dough if it resists and doesn't want to be kneaded anymore. If the flour over-oxygenates, the dough will begin to lose flavor and the bread will be tough. [Introduction | Kneading]
When I was a boy, every Friday for Shabbat my mother [...] baked challah with the schoolchildren. The rich sweet smell of Friday challah is [...] This simple ritual of baking the challah and the pleasure [...] holding the warm loaf fresh from the oven ... well, it's a love story to me. [...] I fell in love with the feeling of excitement that each Friday brought, knowing that when I opened the door after coming home from school, this intoxicating, homey, beaautiful smell would greet me. That fragrance was the marker of something delicious, as well as the human connection that is sparked when you share something made with love. [Challah]
Read the recipe before you begin. Read the ingredients list, reread the instructions, weigh all your ingredients, and get everything in order so you can follow the recipe exactly. [Introduction | A Few Notes, Tips and Tricks]
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When flour is oxygenated, it allows for better gluten development, and the gluten can trap more air in the loaf. I've taken the same ingredients and made the same bread, proofed and baked the same way, but used sifted flour in one loaf and unsifted flour in the other. In the sifted loaf I got 10 to 15% mor volume compared to the unsifted one! [Introduction | Flour: Sifting]
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Another way to tell when the dough is ready is to look at the side of the dough, between the bottom edge of the shaped loaf and the sheet pan or other surface it is proofing on. There should be about a 45-degree difference, an "air angle,"if you will, between the side of the loaf and the board [...] If the dough hasn't relaxed enough during proofing, the angle will be greater; if the dough has overproofed, there will be hardly any air between the edge and the board.
[Introduction | Rising and Proofing]
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Some loaves (such as ciabatta) will sound hollow when tapped, while other richer breads (challah, for example) won't. Since the tap test can be a bit confusing, I find that the most reliable method for checking doneness is to follow the visual cues described in the recipe, to look for even browning [...]Another way to evaluate doneness is to press on the side of the loaf with your finger to see if it resists light pressure or gives in easily; but of course this depends on the loaf-a hearty muesli bun will feel firmer than a pain de mie roll. [...] Remember that the loaf will continue baking once it is out of the oven, thanks to carryover heat-the heat trapped within the bread.[Introduction | Baking]
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My general rule of thumb when adding chocolate, seeds, nuts, dried fruits, or grains to bread is to weigh the dough, then add 20% of the weight in extra goodies. [Introduction | A Few Notes, Tips and Tricks]
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[F]ollow the recipe first! Get to know the method. Like a musician who studies classical piano before exploring interpretive jazz, you will find that the fundamentals and techniques are important. Most people think of baking as a science that is all about precision—which it is, in part—but really, once you get to know a dough, you can break free from the structure to create new shapes and flavors that inspire you.
[Challah]
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Lightly flour the long ropes (this allows for the strands of the braid to stay somewhat separate during baking; otherwise, they'd fuse together). [Challah]
Also wonderful are the photographs of the baked goods and many of the procedures. What is less wonderful is how much I found I needed them. The instructions aren't perfectly clear for some of the processes. For example, Scheft assumes that people will at least mix and probably knead using a stand mixer. Also, Scheft prefers a particular method of tabletop hand kneading that isn't the one most bakers in the US use. I think he like the push and tear kneading that I've been watching a Moroccan baker do on Youtube? He believes this is a faster method for gluten development. I will have to try it to find out. I didn't on the one recipe of his I tried, because I didn't have enough time to mess around.
I had already been influenced by some of the shaping methods that Scheft's bakeries have popularized for challah. In this book I learned that the cut flower shape I learned from an Israeli baking video is originally from the Tunisian island of Djerba. That was cool. I also got to see how Scheft's bakers incorporate dishes for honey into the middle of the challah braids. I tried Scheft's "black tie"--a seeded braid or other ornament on top of an unseeded challah--and I liked that a lot.
I only baked one recipe from the book, which was the main challah recipe. After I struggled with it for a little while, I realized that I needed to knead in more water to get it to smooth out. All the recipes were tested with mixers. I went back to read the box of notes inserted after the recipe and saw that Scheft believes that challah should be underkneaded (!) and underproofed so the crumb comes out like cotton candy. It was good challah--a little sweet, and the flavor wasn't as deep as my usual recipe, but I suspect that Scheft gets better results using cake yeast in the bakery. I think I might have a different goal about how I want mine to come out.
I guess overall I want to make more of the recipes in here, but I also want to compare other people's versions before I do. Scheft is super opinionated about how things should come out. Like, he uses a laminated dough for his best-selling babka, and Nutella in the filling. That works for him, but I'm not sure I want to bake that babka. (He does provide a regular babka dough as well--the laminated one he calls "advanced.") I definitely want to make his matbucha (a kind of tomato jam you can use for shakshuka) and zhug, and his wife's grilled vegetables salad. I'm dying to try baking jachnun, but I'm not sure whether I can use Scheft's recipe and have it come out the way it does for him. I might bake the beet hamantashen if someone dares me, but Purim is a ways off. We'll see. It's definitely a book I am happy I read and recommend to others to read.